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Loved this Steve good pattern, this cut from reclaimed flooring and yes I placed the grain to look like a sash, it’s mounted on callophyllum eng flooring sample, framed with cherry from an entertainment unit

I believe this is a Charles Dearing pattern. It had been laying on my saw for a few months now while I have been working on a bunch of other projects that I didn't want to do. I cleared all of those out, finished the cutting, and right before I was to start framing I threw my back out and spent a week laying down. First thing I did once I could walk again was make the frame and put it together. This one is for an uncle that I work with. I hear him say this line almost daily to people walking out of his office, so I had to cut it for him when I saw it. 1/8 Cherry, 1/8 BB ply stained ebony for backer, walnut for the frame Cut with FD #3 Ultra Reverse

This is the first portrait I have cut. The pattern is by Worbler. Bitchbark and Multitom also provided patterns. All three were so good it was difficult to choose. I'd like to thank all three for their fabulous work. Also thanks to Travis for making all this site what it is. I think I made a couple of basic errors. 1. I should have stack cut two. That way each of my daughters could have one someday. 2. I cut this from 1/8" BB with a #1 Polar blade. Were I thinking I should have used a reverse blade as I had lots of fuzzies toremove. On the last few cuts I used a #1 FD Penguin Silver Reverse blade. Fuzzies gone. A couple of weeks ago I tried ordering a Klingspor mop. The site was down for two days and only accepted phone orders. Being deaf I could not do that so kind of set it aside. I got rid of the fuzzies but a mop would be quicker.

Nurses In Training.

Kevin the pictures of the router jig from infinity tools is what you need to build but smaller for cutting boards. You don't need that big of router bit but it would make the job go faster.

My planer is 13" and I wish it was 15" at times.. a 10" sander with a open mouth would be more than plenty big as i could sand one side and flip around to hit the other side if I was sanding a 15" board.. then again.. nice to be able to just run something through one time too.. and possibly better results.. i plan to keep an eye out for a used one.. meanwhile I'll be using my autobody big block sander and doing them by hand.. which won't take too long really with rough grit paper to get close then switch to a less aggressive one before hitting it with a RO sander

how big is your piece you're wanting to plane, Kevin? I bought a 10" drum sander from a local fella, & get the different grits on amazon perty cheap. Alot of times, it's easier for me to run the piece thru the drum sander than the planer. It takes a little more time, & but doesn't create the dust or the mess the planer does. And in the end, I've got a finish sanded piece to the thickness I want. A 10" sander don't sound like much, Kevin, but dependin' on how fast ya set it, & how much you're takin' off, it's a fair piece of lumber. The sander I bought had hardly been used, & has the manual & tools to do everything are with it.

Another source that I have used both for blades and drill bits is Otto Frei. They specialize in watchmaker/jewelers tools. When I was first exposed to marquetry the instructor told us about his source, Otto Frei, and the prices were good. Ottofrei.com.

I'm back home for a couple of weeks ("vacation" this week, working out of an office in the area next week, then traveling to Chicago the week after), so I was able to get out in the garage and fire up the ole scrollsaw again! Felt good, and I knocked out two quick patterns (one only had three guide holes). One "Avengers" trivet for my wife, and the Celtic cross is for a friend.

Jan put her quilting aside temporarily to fulfill some requests. Paul (Scrappile) asked to see the Live, Laugh, Love painted. Russell (Birchbark) and Marg (Wombatie) wanted to see Morning Coffee painted. County scene by Alex Fox was a surprise for me. Enjoy. Jeff and Jan

I know that I have seen these blades mentioned here before but after searching for them, I can't find where they were discussed. What is the general consensus of the PS Wood blades? After watching videos of the ScrollersNation on Youtube, he raves about them and also the scroll saws. I am thinking of trying a couple dozen but I would like to hear from those of you who may have tried them and what you think. I know they are pricey but if they outlast the others and cut great, maybe they are worth the price. Just askin..............

I don’t have much experience with routers and was wondering how one goes about smoothing boards with one. What type of attachments etc one needs to plane boards down. Also router recommendations. Only thing I have is a small Bosh palm router. Pretty sure this won’t work to do that? Thanks in advance for your comments.

Nice job Duke. I really hate to be the bearer of bad news however, but I believe it should be "A-n-g-e-l-s" not "A-n-g-l-e-s" - Angels not Angles. I hate when that happens to me.

Brad, that sounds like a good size for my little shop. Can you maybe shoot a couple of pics and post them here? And also, what is the brand/model of it so I can start watching C/L for it? Thanks in advance.

This is amazingly sad. How can people get so upset when discussing how, when, where to lube a scroll saw. This is certainly not what I expect on this forum. Maybe on some others I visit but not here. How about a time out?

Looks great thanks for sharing

well Sir, we've (Hawk) had that discussion more than once. Several of the things in the BM manual are the very same things that are in the 220VS manual. And yes, even though they are two different saws, the lube points point to the same places, and there were several JUNK bearings in place in that saw. I like to be informed as well. As long as I've been out of the shop this time Kevin, I've spent plenty of time reading. One thing that never changes is the Hawk saw & it's operational menu. The older Hawks, being belt driven, used pulleys to change speeds. Over time, electronics evolved & we now have the electronic variable speed. Bearings were open in places & needed lube. Further study & modernization of their saws, brought upon sealed bearings in places that bearings were prone to failure. Yes, they were sh*t bearings, but it was a start. As bearings failed, customers returned & wanted parts for failed equipment, better sealed bearings came to light. Better machining processes, change of design, etc. Like any other equipment, there is no perfect way. You keep listenin', ya keep tryin' to create the cadillac of saws for the satisfaction of the customer. The customer either loves the saw, or they don't.

well done

Thank you all for the replies.. I think I need to either save for or build a drum sander..

I don't care whether I'm right or wrong.. it's not about that to me.. I do like to be informed.. specifically on the Hawk saws because I have an interest in them.. and I figure in about 30-40 years I will probably be able to afford a old run down used one that will need rebuilt.. when looking at used saws.. I'll know that some have sealed bearings and some have shielded bearings.. For what it's worth, maybe this info with the newer saws is a cheaper lower quality saw with the shielded bearings.. My Hawk bearings was not in all that good of shape for no more use that I have on it..and Hotshot had to replace his bearings as well.. Yet my old school 1993 Hawk was well.. very well used. and I'm pretty certain it has the original bearings in it.. My Hats off to Hawk for switching to a sealed bearing rather than those junk shielded bearings.. Now.. if they can update the manual to reflect the change so when one does need to replace parts.. everyone should know what parts they need the first time they order..

WAY UP!

Sorry did I miss something?? Kevin has been showing us cutting boards that i think he wants to do and was looking for methods to plane them smooth. Or at least that is what I think he was asking. If asking about edge joining no better tool than a jointer but it can be done on a tablesaw with a good quality blade and also a router table set up done 2 different ways. Sorry if I misunderstood.

You caught me!!!! Thanks for the nice comment!! Lew

I had some PS Wood blades a few years ago. As I recall, they cut very well and lasted fairly long, relative to other blades I've used. They also cut very straight, with no drift. They do not have a reverse tooth version of their blades, so consider that in your decision. I think that if I were using a lot of thick wood for intarsia or compound cutting, I would be more inclined to use the PS Wood blades, but for me, for general scrolling, they are just too expensive.

I look forward to seeing what you have to say. Thanks.

36 blades @ $37.40 including shipping. Or $1.039 per blade. It is steep but if I like the blades I will call them and see if I can get a better price per gross. bb

If you keep knocking them out like this....you will have so many portrait cuttings on your wall, you may not need to paint the wall again.. Seriously, another nice one added to your credit Dick heppnerguy

I just ordered the 257 and 579 assortments. I wanted more of the 5's and 7's but wanted to try the #2 and #9 as well. Shipping was $7.50 which is pretty close to actual shipping costs. The last time I shipped a priority mail envelope it was $7.10. When they come I will put them through tests on a Hawk, Hegner, and brand new Delta and will compare them with Pegas modified geometry blades. bb

It's supposed to be cut as individual letters and scissors and stuck to a backer board not cut out of the wood hence why you think it has the drop outs hope that clears thing up for you. Roly

Whose pattern is that? Is it OK to download it. Don't want to step on any toes here.

Only use Mobil 1 5-20 or your saw will throw a rod.

Will do. I went to see him last week. He lives about 30 minutes from me. Since I don't know the area I was using the GPS on my cell phone. When I was nearly there a car accident happened just in front of me blocking the highway. A three car pile up. I stopped and called 911. I told the dispatcher the exact location with cross streets and direction of travel. She asked me questions but I said I cannot understand as I am nearly deaf and cant converse on the phone. I finally hung up. When I tried my GPS all internet was lost and I could not continue so I went home. I had stopped at a Wally World trying to get a signal but could not. From home I called him and told what had happened. He said I was just a few minutes from where I was. I'll get out there this week.

I've read rave reviews over the years of the PSwood scroll saw.. and only recently read good reviews of their blades.. I buy my bandsaw blades from them.. Love the bandsaw blades.. but I don't think they are a PSwoods exclusive blade.. since they are the Timerwolf brand.. I think they are sold elsewhere.

Rocky keep us posted on your visit, RJ

Clayton at Scroller Nation loves them and is also sold on the PSwood machine. I'm going out to see him this coming week. I can try the machine. He cuts almost cuts thick wood or MDF. Perhaps a super blade is necessary. Ive suggested he join the village.

Unless you cut all the letters out and glue to a backer I'd say you are right.. The scissors though... they look like it was designed to be cut out of the board because of the bridges.. other than the finger holes, LOL

I posted a topic about comparing #7 blades and included the PS Woods Super Sharps. To me, the Super Sharps cut better than all other similar blades in the tests I ran. However, they are the most expensive. You could look up my post for the data by doing a search.

I have a Colwood detailer basic kit I think I paid 150 for it in a plastic carrying box. Most wood carving companies carry colwood or razortip both very good tools. Fredfret

On the subject of "wood burners", what brand, type, model # do most of you use? I have looked into buying one and I get just as confused as I do when looking at scroll saw blades. R

Good idea!! I use the saw to make a teardrop shape to blend the hole into the line. Fredfret

That is a great chart. Learning about pilot holes is in the process one gets to as they attempt to push their envelop and make something new.. It quickly become apparent that one needs to find an answer to solve the 'big drill hole' problem. Dick heppnerguy

The wooden teddy Bear sells them!

I bought mine from Mikes as well. We too had a Mom and Pop hardware store that sold all number bits and use to buy from him but Home Depot put them out of business as they usually do. They were one of those places where you could find the most obscure item you were looking for. I miss them.

Mikes workshop and The Wooden Teddy Bear have the numbered bits at reasonable prices.

First there are drill bits out there that small but you won't find them at Lowes, HD or your local hardware store. Most places that sell scrollsaw blades carry what are called "Number bits". Here is one example: https://mikesworkshop.com/collections/accessories/products/miniature-twist-drill-bits What I like to do is find a bit close to my blade width (kerf) and drill a starter hole at both ends. It tends to give a more balanced and deliberate appearance.

I look forward to your test results. Have you figured out the total cost per blade?

It is on Hwy 85 on the way to Greeley. He has nervous energy and nothing else to do.

PS Woods.

Ray, I've tried them and they are good blades very sharp and do last a long time. They are also quite agressive. I don't do production cutting or try to make large numbers of any thing in a short period. I like a less agressive blade for thick stock 1.5 inch they would be great. Most of my stuff is in 3/4 or thinner stock. By all means try a dz of each size you may love them. Blades are like trucks some like ford some gmc some ram. Fred fret