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My 1st post on this group. I made this for my cousin's birthday, last month. Radiata Pine with Jarrah trim and inlay.

I saw this newer pattern that Alex Fox made and thought it would make a nice piece to give my wife for her 75th birthday on Monday. Well, I did not have any 1/8th in material on hand and thought I would try it with 1/4 inch but it did not really work out as well as I had hoped. I will still give it to her as part of her birthday gifts but I plan to make another soon and replace it. I found that is was a rather easy one to cut, although I did not do so well with it, but I think someone that is pretty new at scrolling could handle it just fine. It looks way more difficult then it is to do. You can also see that I varied the display a little to give the butterfly more contast/ Dick heppnerguy

If you want to practice your turns get this pattern from Steve Good. I used one blade to cut the whole thing #1FDUR I think I should frame this blade.

Just finished up another order for one of these 69 Camaro clocks..

5 layers (4 and 1 background), painted MDF 3mm (about 1/8 inch), 7,5 x 6,5 inches, blades: NIQUA Top Cut #1 Pattern available at: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

We have a friend whos mother died a week ago. Her mother lived to be 102 years old. She was a wonderful, God loving woman and I just had to make this cross and send to her daughter. The photo is pretty bad but the cross really did turn our nicely. I know they will hang the cross in a place of honor, as the entire family loved this lady so very much. Dick heppnerguy

It absolutely does. Looks fine. That wedge should hardly ever get moved. I probably changed tension with that maybe 4 or 5 times in my lifetime of this saw. I work off the front blade tension lever and changed those once on each of my 226 and 220 saws. Once set you should never have to touch again unless you are using a huge blade difference such as #1 to a #12. I stay in the #5 range and good to go. Now If I go up or down I do not need to touch that cam again. As I said all the parts these people are telling you about are replaceable and yes they cost $$$ new but you are getting a $1200 saw for $150 and see if she would take $100 I would not hesitate if it runs and the VS works. All other parts are cheap. The money is in the motor and electronics. Will point out this is a Hawk ultra saw that uses the square blade holders so it is a new version. I also knows this because the front air tube has an articulating front end. Unless she replaced this with a replacement part the first series of this model with the square blocks did not come with this feature. It was a straight tube with a clamp on the side arm and you positioned it by hand for direction of air blowing. They all now come with the articulating blower hose. http://www.rbiwoodtools.com/About-Us.html

Just finished these up yesterday. Made out of cedar and there about 7 inches long and 1 1/2 high. These are Steve Good patterns. I'm giving one to my son in - law who's a retired Marine. He doesn't know he's getting it so he should be surprised when he gets it. The Air Force one is for me.

If you do get the saw and get a chance to actually get accustomed to it you will find it is one of the finest saws on the market and to me the easiest blade changing and use mechanism. I would never get rid of mine. When you do set it up go over the leg system and make sure they are splayed evenly and all bolts are tight. A stand is an important part of a scrollsaw system. It is a design factor that gets overlooked by users. Good luck.

Just to show you what you might get into if you need parts for that front tension lever.. Parts are cheap.. and even if you need a whole assembly it's only $50.. the cam I was mentioning is only $12.50.. But anyway.. here is a link to the parts for that front portion of the saw.. http://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/upper-blade-holder-bracket/

As I said if I did not have enough saws already I would offer her 100 to 125 and run with saw in tow if she accepts. Especially if it runs and VS is good.

Good luck! from what I'm seeing in the pictures.. It's a steal of a deal.. hopefully it'll still be there tomorrow..

Thanks everyone for your input and clearing up some things, I will be taking a trip to look at this saw tomorrow. I will let you know what happens.

Appears to be in good condition to me..

This is one of the pictures of the saw in the link you posted .. good view of the wedge.. this photo shows the wedge at the back of the saw just below the tension cam lever.. Hawk has two tension cam levers.. this one at the back is where you adjust the tension.. the one at the front is more of a quick release for blade changes and makes fretwork much nicer than having to reach to the back..

First picture is the old style motor that is the problematic one. Second picture is the newer style motor.

That is the spring I mentioned that really doesn't do anything other than hold the upper arm up when the blade is is disconnected.. Which in the photos it shows the arm in the up position.. Now.. there may be another purpose of that spring? I don't know.. but I've run my saw without it for some test runs while doing some work to it.. I didn't notice any difference other that it kept falling down on me while trying to thread the blade through another hole.. From the picture.. in the link you posted there is a good view of the wedge that Brad mentioned.. that wedge should be quite pointed.. not rounded off.. but not sharp either.. I thought it looked to be in descent shape in the photo.. As for the motor.. visually the older motor is big.. there is a way to know but I forgot ( old age I guess ) The older motor is pretty good sized while the newer motor is a smaller one more like the size of the DeWalt Excalibur size motors.. When I say big I mean diameter.. I'll go out and take a photo of my older one and my newer one so you'll have an idea of how they look. From what I've seen.. the 26" saws are typically priced from $400 - 650 just to give an idea of how this one is priced.. actually see them for more than $650 but they typically set on them for months to sell them too.. but they seem to move fairly quick around the $400 - 600 range.

If you are talking about the quick release lever up front, it is a quick easy fix. Here are the parts that come in the kit. The barrel pin is what holds it on. Pop that out and that is it.

Well a closer look.. I think it's a Ultra series which is like my newer one.. should have the square style clamps.. and I believe it will have two slots in the lower arm for the blade clamp to fit into.. front slot for less aggressive cutting and the back slot for thick wood or aggressive cuts.. As for the tension spring.. not sure what she is referring to so.. I'm going to guess at what the issue is.. and maybe what you can look for.. The upper clamp has a sort of cam on it where the tension lever is.. This cam has a set screw ( very small allen wrench needed ) that you turn to adjust this.. I'm guessing it's out of adjustment.. BUT.. it could be worn out too.. I think the cam thing can be changed out but not sure? The whole mechanism ( upper tension lever whole pivoting portion etc ) runs about $50 i think.. I changed - updated it on my old saw as it didn't have any adjustment set screw.. I believe this saw would have the newer motor ( but not positive ).. I think the ultra series came out in 1996 and was maybe made until the G4 came out maybe? Not sure .. Don't know when the G4 came out.. Thinking around 2004-5? They may have still made the ultra in the G4 era too I don't know.. I'd say it should be well worth $150.. Problem is.. if the tension lever is out of adjustment.. you may not be able to try the saw out... Oh.. yes you can maybe.. depending on how worn or out of adjustment it is.. You can take a rubber band to wrap around the upper arm and the tension lever to hold it down.. Usually what happens is the cam lever won't stay locked in place.. but if you take a rubber band or something to sort of hold it down you can use it or at least test it ( hopefully ).. This is what Bushton told me to do until I got my new mechanism for my older saw if I needed to run it.. Edit to add: That set screw for the cam adjustment is on the underside of the front pivoting portion.. should be back about the area where the lever goes into the arm.. I'd say take a set of small allen wrenches with you and you could maybe adjust it up until it gets some tension.. I can't remember the procedure off the top of my head though.. However you may not want to fix it.. then she might want more money for it since it's such a simple fix and may not actually need parts, LOL ;

Well as usual there is no great photo of the serial tag.. no good photo of the lower blade clamp to see if it uses the round barrel clamp or the newer square block type.. No view of the motor to know whether it has the problematic motor or not.. With all that said.. I do see what looks like the slotted hole in the stand here you would put a barrel type clamp in to hold it while you change blades out...BUT.. I also see what looks like the blade change holder holes in the framework beam up by the upper arm for the square styled clamps.. I really cannot give you much info on it myself.. I would say, go look at it.. take a few blades and maybe he will let you cut on that pile of wood stacked on top of it.. Run the speed dial from slow to fast while cutting and see if it gets real jumpy.. Those older style motors like to surge.. and that is my understanding of what burns up the motor as it'll surge too much power too many times.. My older Hawk does this.. BUT.. only at the highest maybe 7/8 of the dial and higher.. never had an issue below that so i keep it right in the sweet spot below that and that is my main saw I been using.. The 226 is a higher dollar saw.. and in my opinion.. if it runs.. it's worth every penny of that and more.. even if you have to change out some worn parts.. I have the 226.. with the square style clamps too.. but my favorite one to use is actually that older 220 with the barrel clamps.. I don't know why other than the upper arm goes up a little higher for easier blade feeding ( bottom feeder here).. and most of the older Hawks are bottom feed only.. You can email the seller and get the serial number and call buston and they should be able to tell you the year of the machine.. and if it has that older motor.. personally I wuldn't worry about the motor at that price you can afford to put $300 for a new motor and controller assembly at most likely get your money out of it by selling it or use it.. Just My opinion... The New 226 BM series Hawks are $1400 + shipping which I believe equates to around $1600.. which is basically the same thing with a few upgrades

over $1000 saw new so go from there. What condition does it run, what condition is blower and so forth.

I used to be quite active in a number of scroll saw forums, but due to a few different things gave it all away about 6 years ago. Finally got back down the shed, serviced the saws and am having a great time breathing saw dust. Cheers

My granddaughter is getting married in November. Both her and her husband to be are professional horse people. My granddaughter buys, sells, breaks. trains and sells horses. Her husband to be, is a professional roper and cowboy, he works as a ranch hand, taking care of miles of fences and herds a very large amount of cattle. So my thanks goes to Sam Custodio for his great pattern and for allowing me to alter it for this special occasion. Dick heppnerguy

Hi folks, I got me some whiskey barrel lids and I am thrilled. Oak, 1" thick 21" diameter. Held together by dowels so I will glue them up. But then... What can scrollers come up with? I am thinking fretwork? They are 30 years old and I am thrilled to have got them. Thank for your brain matter

Well J, not all of them will be in the field. Make no mistake, bushton industries is a small, but extremely busy operation in more than one way. Yes, they are Farmers, and have crops & ground to tend to, but there are also plenty of other folks in the office & their shops that are extremely knowledgeable in every piece of equipment they build. This saw you are goin' to look at, keep in mind Jt's words. These are $1200 saws brand new. And I agree with JT, shoot her an offer of $100 - $125 after you've given it the once over, & made sure everything is satisfactory. Keep the small things in the back of your mind that need fixin' because even at the small amount they cost, it is still cash you have to invest before the saw is usable. And yes, I agree with KM & JT, that wedge looks albeit new. Just needs a snort of graphite before ya put the torque to it.;) You'll do fine, J. You're gettin' a steal! If you don't leave with it, I'll call her & buy it myself, ask her to ship it to Kansas!:):) Invest in RED J! You won't regret it, my friend! God Bless!

great looking piece of work

Could someone show me where the wedge is located at please?

great job

Thanks Bob, I'm currently doing another, slightly different for my Sister's birthday.

That's really nice looking piece of work you did there John and well finished too! Thank you for posting, Bob

Wow !...Very nice work !

A big WELCOME from me . Roly

Very nice Kevin. Great work as always. Marg

Everything becomes easier with practice. The more effort one puts into trying new things the more versatile one is. Nice job with spirals, Dave Dick heppnerguy

Thanks for all the input Kevin and John. Just looking at the motor is there anyway of telling the difference between the old style motor and the newer style motor? I'm wondering if she is talking about the spring that is shown on page 10. Right under that picture it says Blade Tension Adjustment.

I have insulated doors in my shop, Which is a double car garage, But since we live in Southern Arizona and through the summer most days are in the 100 to 120 degrees, it still get hot in the shop. I do have a mini split air conditioner in my shop. The sun comes up very early in the morning and as soon as it gets higher then my neighbors single story house across the street, I am hit with the direct sun hitting both my doors. Outside at 6 am it is already 82 degrees, but sometimes the coolest it gets outside is 90 degrees. I start my AC right after I get up, if I am going to work in my shop and about the best I can maintain is 84 degrees. Without my AC it would get to 104 degrees by noon or so. Do the insulated doors help, YES. Does that mean it will be comfortable to scroll in all day... Not for me. But an added T shirt that is put in a sink of water and rung out and worn during the afternoon works way better than you would realize. The spraying or misting oneself is a joke but the wet T shirt works wonders for about 45 minutes. Dick heppnerguy

Thanks for posting that picture JT.. I'm thinking this is what she means when she says tension spring.. there is no spring.. other than the arm spring at the back of the saw.. and not really anything to do with the tension.. only just holds the arm up for you for blade changes.. and in the photo.. it shows the arm in the up position.. so I don't think that is what she is talking about..

Very nicely don.

That looks great !

Possibly. IF you were to cut out large fret shapes, you would be able to see dowels looking "down into the cut out holes". jerry

Very well done Dick! Great job, Thank you for posting, Bob

These are not new from Harvey, but new to me as I hadn't cut these before. Trying to add a couple new items in advance of two big events coming up next month. I have Harvey modifying the Steogsaurus to simply say STEGO... the original had so many letters, they were thin and fragile.

Welcome to the Village. Glad you got your second wind with the saw. Look forward to seeing your work and your participation here.

Beautiful cross thanks for sharing

Nice, Very nice work !

Very nicely done Dick. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

OK - I got really excited the more I kept making things with my original scroll saw. I got a kick out of some small items that someone made - he had challenged himself to make one-a-day for a whole year, and most were fun. I made some, then had the sense to ask him if he cared if I sold them at craft fairs. To my surprise, being new to all this "copyright" idea, he answered emphatically that I should NOT sell them; that he thought of each design as copyrighted. So, I haven't made anymore, and I haven't sold any either. Right now most are mounted outside on my arbor. The attached Word document shows only four items. But about the fourth picture - I made that, gave it one of my daughters, who gave it to a friend, who has traveled about the world and taken pictures of himself holding the piece at various locations worldwide. He sent the pictures to my daughter who in turn shared them with me. So, that's my story!! Vin Early Scroll Saw Items.doc

I guess since I've only been scrolling for about 6 months, all of my projects are "new and beginner" but these are the very first. I cut them at a class I took at a Woodcraft store.

The Chevy for my father. He is married in this car on 1960.

This one for my daughter in law. She also always helps me.