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Finished 3 tissue boxes on Saturday, Sold the Elephant one at Sunday's markets. The dragon design I have cut before, The butterfly and Elephants are new designs and 1st time cuts. Pine with Jarrah Trim. I use felt to back the cuttings.

One more gift. Almost 7 hours. And I still managed to break it .... click on the picture to enlarge

My wife has been bugging me to try a portrait. I found a picture from a few years ago of her and dove into MS 3D paint. After a few hours, I came up with a picture I could cut. I'll try my hand on a few others in the next coming weeks for some of the family relatives. I hope I don't get disowned! LOL! 1/8" BBPW on 1/4" backer Gloss lacquer finish.

Havn't posted much lately been doing a lot of repeat projects. I decided to post these that I had finished. The quilting cave plaques are 14"×16" made from 1/4" birch plywood. The wall plaque is about 6"×9". All with a few coats of clear finish on them.

Hey Everyone, Just wanted to introduce myself to the community. My name is Jason Henry and I live in the foothills of the Beautiful Cascade Mountain Range(Washington State). I have spent the last 10 years dedicated to producing Amazing cut ready DXF files for the CNC cutting industry (laser, plasma, waterjets). I really enjoy creating wildlife related design work but feel comfortable creating just about anything anyone could possible want or need. I would like to try my hand at creating printable PDF patterns for the Scroll Saw cutting industry. I am attaching one of my first PDF designs to this post to hopefully get some feedback on it. I am interested in creating some really awesome patterns for everyone so if you have a chance please take a look at the attached PDF file. Let me know if you have any suggestions on how I can improve on the PDF file I uploaded. Also, If anyone is interested in having me create a design for them you can email me at jasonhenrylives@yahoo.com or message me on this site. I currently have a website set up but only have a few designs added to it right now. www.scrollsawartpatterns.com Thanks! JH Cowboy Horse Welcome Sign.pdf

Finally got around to framing this raven cut from old birch flooring, mounted on engineered flooring sample framed with maple from a entertainment unit

Hi. I am Innar from Estonia . 42 years old carpenter and i love woodworking. I discovered scroll saw videos 2015 in Youtube and i fell in love instantly. Then I began to search scroll saw for myself. Found Delta 40-560 two speed (used) in Finland and bought this. Very good saw for beginner. With one problem - no spare parts available. But we estonians love challenges. If the are no parts available, then you find a friend who will do the piece you need. Simple! Sold for now back to Finland and still working. Then I found Hegner Multimax 2 (used) in the market. Again in Finland! It came with original stand. I still use it. Spare parts can order from Germany. Thank you all here in SSV and all pattern makers. All my free time (if I have some) im scrolling. Innar PS. Sorry for my english. Self study.

This marriage has been looming in the works for a couple of years and they finally decided the time was NOW. Since they had been a couple for maybe a total of 4 years, I was content to just have the feeling of "It's about time". I was told a couple of months after the announcement that she was disappointed to not had this traditional "she said yes" plaque that I had made and given to everyone else. I told her that I was just so excited that the time was FINALLY here that all I thought about was the upcoming wedding. I did promise to make them one. The husband to be is Hannah's brother. Hannah is the girl I made the 'HITCHEN UP" plaque for, that I posted yesterday. This is a pretty ordinary piece but it means a lot to the people it is made for, so I thought I would post it anyway. Dick heppnerguy

Got a few done now and wanted to post these up. The Celtic square is from Bobsaw got to love his work. Worbler did the Pangolin from a request. Hard to believe they are an endangered species and people catch them and try to make pets out of them. On the Pangolin I hit it with a blow torch after cutting and was surprise by the way it darkened the area around each cut. Got to do this more often really like the effect. Thanks both of you for the great patterns. Had fun on these. jim penquin

The little ones next door wanted to present their teachers with a leaving gift and not the usual chocolates or flowers so I came up with these for them instead. Pattern is from Steve Good and the material used is an old pine table top.

So yes, I made the drive and got the new to me Hawk 226 Scroll Saw and as promised I made a few videos of it so you all can see and tell me how much I messed up getting this saw. Video 1 Video 2 Video 3 Thanks for looking and please give me your feedback on this saw. Jim

My 1st post on this group. I made this for my cousin's birthday, last month. Radiata Pine with Jarrah trim and inlay.

These are my grandchildren. Patterns courtesy of Mahendra. They will be Christmas gifts to my two daughters. Cut from 1/8" BB with a #1 Penguin Silver Reverse blade.

Can anyone tell me about this saw? I'm thinking for $150.00, it might be a good deal. RBI Thank you Jim

Looks like you have a Hawk that should work well for a number of years. Any saw that runs with no blade under tension is going to rattle. Clean it up, get the latest mods and go to work making sawdust.

I use this on all my tools http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

Those are beautiful.. You did good on those.. I've always thought about making some of those.. just haven't yet

Wow !....Those turned out great!

Looks like you did well. There is no blade in it so that wedge moves around easily from transporting it. Great price and great saw. Looks just like mine. Will say this those plastic blade clamp holders under the table get stretched out over time and it can cause the holder to jump to a different notch position. They are cheap enough to have plenty of spares. I made one from some spring steel to replace them. Good luck with new toy.

I had a special request to try to build a carousel type rocking horse. I have made 65+ kid sized rocking toys, plus a bunch of mini-sized stress reliever ones. SO I said, why not try. Here is the result. It is 37+1/2 inches tall 35 inches long and 14 inches wide. All construction is screwed and glued with the visible screw holes filled or plugged. I use a jig that I had made years ago for the rocker assembling. The wood is pine and a bit of unknowns for the top-cap and the handle. They were turned from firewood pile. The customer wanted to do the paint/trim etc. as that is one of my weaknesses anyway that is more than fine! The design is fro the rjR/ T & E design studio. All cross braces are also reinforced underneath. It passed the ride test by me with flying(ROCKING) colors too. When I get so I cannot test ride them; I am going to quit making them and give my rocker assembly jig and templates away. I did make posterboard templates for this one. If I make another, it will also have thin plywood templates made at the cutting time.

Thanks Kevin and Rocky, I won't have much time for a week or two to work on the Hawk. I have 4 motorcycles I need to have finished next weekends motorcycle races. But afterwards I will be looking at where to put it and start working on it.

Yeah, I might have that myself before I started taping. I will remember to put that back like it was. Thanks Rocky.

Looks like you did very well indeed. I notice on video 2 the V shaped wedge appears 90 degrees out of place. The V should sit in the V notch. The video passed over that portion rather quickly so I may not have seen what I thought I saw. You got a great deal.

Woohoo, headed out to check out the scroll saw. Wish me luck and I hope I have a new (to me) scroll saw later on today.

If you do get the saw and get a chance to actually get accustomed to it you will find it is one of the finest saws on the market and to me the easiest blade changing and use mechanism. I would never get rid of mine. When you do set it up go over the leg system and make sure they are splayed evenly and all bolts are tight. A stand is an important part of a scrollsaw system. It is a design factor that gets overlooked by users. Good luck.

Just to show you what you might get into if you need parts for that front tension lever.. Parts are cheap.. and even if you need a whole assembly it's only $50.. the cam I was mentioning is only $12.50.. But anyway.. here is a link to the parts for that front portion of the saw.. http://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/upper-blade-holder-bracket/

Thanks everyone for your input and clearing up some things, I will be taking a trip to look at this saw tomorrow. I will let you know what happens.

It absolutely does. Looks fine. That wedge should hardly ever get moved. I probably changed tension with that maybe 4 or 5 times in my lifetime of this saw. I work off the front blade tension lever and changed those once on each of my 226 and 220 saws. Once set you should never have to touch again unless you are using a huge blade difference such as #1 to a #12. I stay in the #5 range and good to go. Now If I go up or down I do not need to touch that cam again. As I said all the parts these people are telling you about are replaceable and yes they cost $$$ new but you are getting a $1200 saw for $150 and see if she would take $100 I would not hesitate if it runs and the VS works. All other parts are cheap. The money is in the motor and electronics. Will point out this is a Hawk ultra saw that uses the square blade holders so it is a new version. I also knows this because the front air tube has an articulating front end. Unless she replaced this with a replacement part the first series of this model with the square blocks did not come with this feature. It was a straight tube with a clamp on the side arm and you positioned it by hand for direction of air blowing. They all now come with the articulating blower hose. http://www.rbiwoodtools.com/About-Us.html

So from this view can you tell if the wedge looks like it is in decent shape?

This is one of the pictures of the saw in the link you posted .. good view of the wedge.. this photo shows the wedge at the back of the saw just below the tension cam lever.. Hawk has two tension cam levers.. this one at the back is where you adjust the tension.. the one at the front is more of a quick release for blade changes and makes fretwork much nicer than having to reach to the back..

Yes, the bigger motors are more problematic, & do not run as fast as the new ones do. Nor do they run as cool as the new ones. That is part of the issue w/the old motors. And KM is correct, the wedge should have a dull point to it. If it to sharp of a point, you can file it down some. If it is rounded off, it's shot & will not hold tension. Please keep in mind this the critical part of Hawks tension system. It revolves around that wedge. As I mentioned before, and from experience, If that wedge is rounded off to the point where it will not hold tension, most likely the top arm will need machine work to correctly fit a new wedge. And only Bushton themselves can look after that for you. And yes, the spring mentioned is for nothing but to keep the top arm up when changing blades. It can be bought at your local hardware store. The manual should show the size of the spring. Also, another thing, check out the condition of air bellows & air line. If it's in sorry condition, Bushton has replacement locking & bellows. A 15 minute fix. Take all this into consideration when you're looking at the saw. If it needs repairs, point it out to the owner & make her an offer from there. Be fair with your offer, & most of All, be kind. God Bless & good luck!

First picture is the old style motor that is the problematic one. Second picture is the newer style motor.

That's the one, J. You're lookin' at the right picture.

I want to thank Lawson for inspiring me to make this pattern. I cut all the lettering except for the large with a spiral blade. The scribble font worked well because none of the letters were straight. I am far from a pro using spirals and I don't use them unless I have to.

My 226 is a 98 according to Bushton.. and my serial number is 10290.. so I guessing it's newer than mine.. by how much, I don't know.. definitely would have the newer better motor I would think.. as mine does..

Thanks for posting that picture JT.. I'm thinking this is what she means when she says tension spring.. there is no spring.. other than the arm spring at the back of the saw.. and not really anything to do with the tension.. only just holds the arm up for you for blade changes.. and in the photo.. it shows the arm in the up position.. so I don't think that is what she is talking about..

Below is a link to the PDF manual on their site for the ultra style saws.. I didn't see the adjustment procedure. I have a paper that came with my new clamp for the older saw that has the instructions on it.. I'd have to look for it.. Anyway.. if you go to the parts list.. #20 is the cam just to give you a visual your tension lever goes through the cam.. you'll turn that set screw in just enough to put some pressure on that lever as you would lock the tension on the blade.. This should also show you how to install the blades etc. if you're not familiar with the Hawk saws. Might look through it before going to look at the saw.. http://www.bushtonmanufacturing.com/files/SawManuals/Model_226pro_serial_1636-3100.pdf

Well a closer look.. I think it's a Ultra series which is like my newer one.. should have the square style clamps.. and I believe it will have two slots in the lower arm for the blade clamp to fit into.. front slot for less aggressive cutting and the back slot for thick wood or aggressive cuts.. As for the tension spring.. not sure what she is referring to so.. I'm going to guess at what the issue is.. and maybe what you can look for.. The upper clamp has a sort of cam on it where the tension lever is.. This cam has a set screw ( very small allen wrench needed ) that you turn to adjust this.. I'm guessing it's out of adjustment.. BUT.. it could be worn out too.. I think the cam thing can be changed out but not sure? The whole mechanism ( upper tension lever whole pivoting portion etc ) runs about $50 i think.. I changed - updated it on my old saw as it didn't have any adjustment set screw.. I believe this saw would have the newer motor ( but not positive ).. I think the ultra series came out in 1996 and was maybe made until the G4 came out maybe? Not sure .. Don't know when the G4 came out.. Thinking around 2004-5? They may have still made the ultra in the G4 era too I don't know.. I'd say it should be well worth $150.. Problem is.. if the tension lever is out of adjustment.. you may not be able to try the saw out... Oh.. yes you can maybe.. depending on how worn or out of adjustment it is.. You can take a rubber band to wrap around the upper arm and the tension lever to hold it down.. Usually what happens is the cam lever won't stay locked in place.. but if you take a rubber band or something to sort of hold it down you can use it or at least test it ( hopefully ).. This is what Bushton told me to do until I got my new mechanism for my older saw if I needed to run it.. Edit to add: That set screw for the cam adjustment is on the underside of the front pivoting portion.. should be back about the area where the lever goes into the arm.. I'd say take a set of small allen wrenches with you and you could maybe adjust it up until it gets some tension.. I can't remember the procedure off the top of my head though.. However you may not want to fix it.. then she might want more money for it since it's such a simple fix and may not actually need parts, LOL ;

Here are a few more pics she sent me. The serial number is 10961. Is there a way I can look that number up on the Hawk website? I hope these help out some. She did say she thought the tension spring needed replacing. I'm thinking sometime this weekend I will be going and looking at this. Thanks for taking the time to reply John and Kevin. Jim

I would make a wedge shaped piece that bolts to the stand and then the saw bolts to it. It would be easy to build out of scrap plywood and boards. Try it and if it adds vibration or is unstable you have some firewood....

I don't have a Hegner.. but all my saws sit flat on the stand ( no angle ) except the DeWalt... and ... all saws give me neck / shoulder stiffness and sometimes pain except the DeWalt.. My older Hawk has adjustable feet.. and I've set the back ones higher than the front.. but cannot get enough angle to completely comfortable.. I tried adding some blocks to the back.. but that only caused bad vibration as JT mentioned.. Part of my problem is my stool. it's adjustable but doesn't get the right height which causes me to sit awkward hence the discomfort..

I live in Canada and buy from Bear Woods, delivery is six seven days on most items. If I send a letter from my town to the town sixty klicks down the road it takes six or seven days as well. Far from me to figger out our postal system. The Bear Woods site comes up in U.S currency when I access from Scroll Saw Workshop, there is a tab to access items in Canadian dollars. To compare, U.S is usually much less than our dollar. I also buy blades from Mike's, delivery is about seven or eight days, similar price when exchange is calculated. There isn't any duty or border charges and the postal charge is about the same, something like $4.00 I also buy from Saw Bird, a distributor some six hours drive from us. Delivery maybe a day or two earlier, postal service is $4.00 for blades They come in an envelope. Bear Woods is on the West coast near Vancouver and close to the border, It appears that Steve Good is associated with them. Bear Woods sells U,S clock manufactured items, these are a little more expensive, but much better than the ones I bought from Eastern Canada that were labelled from China. I have phoned each distributer and get exceptional, cordial treatment. Apologize for getting long worded, it is a hereditary thing. Just hope this trade issue doesn't interfere with my scroll saw hobby.

I'm trying to find woodscrollers in my area, but can't seem to locate any body so i figured i would try here and maybe one of the members know of someone. I'm in Tallahassee, Fl. I'm trying to get with someone that knows the trade very well because i have some issues that hopefully i could arrange to meet with them and get some pointers. thanks, Ray johnson

AGREE!!

Hi Ray: I agree with John - post your concerns here Remember, there are no such things as stupid questions By doing so, you may be helping others also Don't be shy, ask away C'mon, I dare ya Fab4

It just struck me that many years ago, one would reasonably expect mail order items to take 2-3 months to arrive. My how things have changed.

I use D and D. Blades arrive in 2-3 days. What is confusing on their site? Maybe we can help.

I ordered some clocks from them about 6-8 years ago.. they took a very long time to get here... While they were good clocks and I didn't really have any issues with them.. The slow shipping is why i never ordered from them again.. at the time I ordered.. I didn't know they was from Canada.. until I looked at my packing slip when my package arrived.. then it was like.. OH.. that's why it took so long..

You do know it’s a Canadian company don’t you? With customs and all, it will take longer than Wooden Teddybear.