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Hi guys and gals, just finished this today. This is for my Grandson who just joined the Navy. I want to thank Wayne and Bob for doing the pattern for me. I had the choice of either one. I did Wayne's and took a little bit of Bob's. Thanks again guys. Ralph.

Finished 3 tissue boxes on Saturday, Sold the Elephant one at Sunday's markets. The dragon design I have cut before, The butterfly and Elephants are new designs and 1st time cuts. Pine with Jarrah Trim. I use felt to back the cuttings.

Yea I don't do any of that. Like a said simple piece of thick rubber and it solved that years ago. I do not touch the lever and have not for a long time so I do not oil it lube it or touch it. My control is in the front arm. If a number blade I am using is longer than my usual #5 I just cut the tip off to make fit.

If all works it still a very good deal. You get to at least try it being it is a pickup. Good luck. Good to see the Hawk family growing here.

I am a Hawk owner. Got the Hawk G4 for $ 330. I am going tomorrow to pick it up. I hope it is as nice as the pictures.

Congrats Jim.........looks to me that you got a heck of a deal.

I'd like to get my hands on a Hegner one day.. Love the Hawk saws.. just always wanted to try a Hegner.. one day a deal will come along when I actually have the funds.. I've seen a few deals here and there.. just not good timing for me to snag one yet..

Over the last three years y'all have provided so much help, thank you. I finally feel like I may have done something that might help someone else. I have been putting mini-clocks in various cuttings, I am not always able to add the clock hole to the design due to the odd shape of the wood, so I made this template from 1/8 BB. It allows me to move it around on the piece and when I like it, I can mark the center for drilling. Inner diameter is 1 3/8 and the outer diameter is 1 7/16 (to show where the clock bezel would be. Attached is a pdf, and a two layer photoshop file EDIT Dang photoshop, the inner diameter is fine, the outer diameter is too large - I'm Working on it Sorry guys Jim EDIT EDIT ROFL, this getting old is hard on the memory What I did, since I did not want to try to cut a 1/16 inch wide circle (not sure my skill level is there yet), was to allow for a reveal outside the bevel of the clock face. The clock face bevel has a diameter of 1 7/16 inch, slightly less than half what is shown and the inner diameter is 1 3/8 I need a beer. sigh Jim mini-clock-hole.pdf mini-clock-hole.psd

One more gift. Almost 7 hours. And I still managed to break it .... click on the picture to enlarge

I am looking for a remote control for a Ridgid shop vac. Something on the line of just plug into a wall outlet and plug the shop vac into that. Any suggestions?

I was cutting my grandson's portrait with a Penguin Silver Reverse #3 blade. Before this I cut a pattern with a Pegas MG #5 blade and was impressed with how well it tracked the line. Today I put in the PSR #3 and noticed it tried to drift. I remembered someone suggesting sanding the right side of the blade which I did. I was surprised at the difference it made. I was delighted because I really like the PSR blades. They cut very smoothly. I just attached 220 sandpaper to a piece of wood with spray adhesive. I placed it next to the blade and ran the saw for only a second or so. Worked like a charm.

You know what Ray, I have lived in Colorado Springs since around 1980. I don't remember having hail damage until the last couple of years.

They are awesome John. My mum would have loved the elephants, me I love the butterfly. Great work. Marg

Jim just a quick note being you mentioned rattle or someone did, That handle on the back tension wedge can sometimes work it way over to the arm and rattle against it. I put a piece of rubber on the arm to prevent this. Maybe something to watch for. Good luck with new saw. Hope many projects come off it.

Well sis and I just had a hell of a hail storm come through yesterday (the hail was tennis ball size). It just tore the snot out of our garage door. So maybe with the insurance company help I can get me a insulated door and larger garage door opener.

Thanks Charley, I did do that for one of my pics, but one of them I want longer that legal paper size. I know when acrobat reader pops up I'm able to print in poster and print two pager to get my length. I just can't seem to get that program to come up all the time/.

I sometimes do this, as well as round the rear edges of blades, but I prefer using a sharpening stone for this and dedicated a small one to use with my scroll saw. It holds up way better than sandpaper. Don't use the stone that you use to sharpen your knives and plane irons though, because you want a perfectly flat stone surface for these uses and one used for the scroll saw will become slightly grooved over time. Charley

It might help if you change the paper size on the printer screen to "Legal", and of course use legal size paper If "Scale to fit" is checked the printer software will adjust the size of the image to fit the paper selected, so you should un-check that too. You should then be able to adjust the size up to legal paper length by adjusting the % scale. I prefer sizing my images in Photoshop and saving them in Jpg format, then using Photoshop to send the 100% size image to my printer. Then I always get the size that I want whenever I want more copies. Charley

Local pickup only

Great idea! Thanks for sharing.

Clayton We will give the same advise as the previous question on value of a Hawk saw. These saws are all professional line saws. They are not beginners entry level saws. The Hawk line os saws in my opinion is top of the line. They have over the years taken their saws to new levels improving on things if problems arose with a current model. Some improvements are so minor the average person will not even know, This series G4 is the middle series in their line and its biggest improvement was the ability to top feed. These are again over $1200 saws so when you say cheap what are you talking. These saws will go for around $500 to $600 on the market. Is it a good deal?? You have to see the saw and be able to test saw. Does the motor run and sound good, does the VS work, does the air blowing system work, is the back blade tension cam look in good shape, does the front tension work and so on. Too many variables to say yes good deal. But are they worth the look. Absolutely. Here is a link for the BM series to show what improvements go on to give you an idea. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Na5E18zXTZI

I would mask off the printing and sand and finish the rest of the disk. I would not change the splits, leave as is. Finish with poly urethane or spar varnish and make them patio tables with 3-leg tripod kind of legs, probably cedar posts or baseball bats for legs. edit - I don't even want to image trying to hang a 1" think,. 21 inch diameter oak disc on the wall, those things are heavy

On your print menu, there is a Scale setting and a scale to fit setting. Yours is set to the scale to fit, if you click on the Scale button you will get a window to the right of it that will allow you to increase, or decrease the size. I hope this is what you are trying to do.

I don't sand the back of my blades as I have not had a problem making very tight turns but I do sand the right side which helps me cut straighter. On the #1 blade, because it is so small, I clamp the blade with sandpaper on the right side and a plain piece of wood on the left. I just run the saw and lightly pinch the two together. Only for about a second or two.

Hahahaha, Not to say that a Excalibur or other saws that have aftermarket clamps available are not a high end saw.. but I think when you buy a high end saw like our Hawks.. you already have a high end quality clamp that came with it, LOL.. I see how you tricked me into saying that.. ... and I said it as nicely as I could as to not offend anyone..

I stone the back edges of scroll saw and bandsaw blades using this stoning tool, made for this purpose: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/bladeroundingstone.aspx For bandsaw blades, I just hold it against the back edges and rotate it while it is running. A few small sparks fly off now and then, but generally a very tame operation. I am careful to not rotate it far enough to ever touch the teeth (same for scroll saw blades). For scroll saw blades, I first mount the blades upside down and stone the back corners, and move up and down to be sure to get the entire length of exposes blade as it oscillates up and down. Then I turn the blade over and repeat. This is to ensure the entire usable length of the blade gets stoned. I do this for the two reasons stated earlier, to reduce drift and for making tighter turns. I used to use stones from my father's machinist tool box, but the above stoning tool is substantially coarser and handier to use. Rick

Have you seen them for our Hawk saws, KM? I've been followin' these threads, too, and am interested in them. I don't use pegasus blades, but am seriously thinkimg of going to them. Especially the modified geometry blades.

I sand all my blades before I start cutting. Especially if I'm doing fretwork and lettering. It sure makes a big difference in the looks of the end project! Thanks for passin' that on, Mr. Rocky!:)

good point, KM. The wider the blade, the bigger the foot print. Your bigger flat blade would work ok for your outside cuts, I would question maneuverability. But for your inside cuts, you're going to want to go with a #3 or thereabouts in order to get thru your tighter turns. Especially in the star & your other cuts. Something else to consider, if you sand the right side of your blade after you get the tension set, run your saw and hold a piece of 220 grit sand paper agin' the right side of the blade for a few seconds. Your blade will track straighter, & cut just a little cleaner.;) Keep makin' sawdust, my friend! There is nothing you aren't able to do on your Craftsman that we do with our high end saws, Sir. I started out on a Craftsman, & still have one as a back up saw! Keep pluggin' away at this. You'll be makin' your projects to sell before ya know it! God Bless!

ONe think I have already figured out this am - I have a #2 Reverse tooth blade that I tried - the cut was smoother, but no where near wide enough. I will sand and paint each piece, and I found out last year I need a wide cut to allow for the paint. I will see if there are any blades to give me the width I get from the sprial cut blade, but allow me to make the turns I need. Again, really good info here - thank you all.

Thank you for this post. I had not looked into PS saws before. I see that they look like robust saws and are made in the USA!

I have a HF near me and go there lots of times. I'm supposed to walk so might as well walk the isles there. I have three of their number sets #1 to #60 but have never seen individual number sizes. I'll check there this week. I use HF drill bits all the time. Especially on my lathes and mill. Never had a problem. Thanks Brad.

I have one on an old lathe I have that I bought from harbor freight for $12. Works well & no issues.

If you scroll down to the Rockler one at $99.99 just below it is one that looks identical except for the stick on label for $69.99. I am willing to bet it is the same unit.

I've had one on my dust collector for many years now. I got it from Rockler and paid around $75. I thought it was expensive then they now want $100! It is a good one, like I said I've had it for years and it has never failed nor have I lost the remote for it. http://www.rockler.com/dust-collector-remote-switch I would think. you could find a cheaper one that would work just fine. They are very convenient to have.

Looks familiar to me too. Wish I could be of more help.

I use Olsons match blades and I would us a #5or #7 blade on my Dewalt.

First let me say - Welcome to the forum Not to get into a what saw is best debate.. I've done enough of that in this forum All the saws the others mentioned above should be able to handle the chore. blade choice is going to be the key to achieving the task more so than what saw to use.. I'm not a thick wood cutter so I don't really know what blade would be best.. I'm guessing what the others said that have been there done that.. ScrollSaw703 I think has given some good advice about the blades.. Not sure what you might be cutting ( maybe I missed it ) but if you could get by with a small bandsaw.. that is where I would be looking if you're just cutting outside cuts etc.. Scroll sawing that thick would is real slow going I would think.. at least for someone like me that typically cuts 3/4" or less... mostly less..

RBI Hawks can cut up to 2 inch but are 1200+ new used almost any price age, condition dictates. fredfret

This is where I got mine as it's on sale.. Not sure what saw you have but this one linked is for the Excalibur.. They also have them for the DeWalt and Jet saw too.. but you'd have to search for it. Also Bear Woods, and DND sells them on their site as well.. I'm sure I'm missing the other sellers I found but you can just google search for pegas blade chuck.. since pegas is known for blades you'll have to sort through sites that also sell the blades.. Anyway.. one linked below was the cheapest deal because they are on sale. I ordered on Sunday evening and they came in the mail in about 3-4 days https://qtena.com/b-pegas-head-clamp-set-br-for-axminster-carbatec-excalibur-excelsior-jet-king-pegas-and-seyco-scroll-saws-p-9607.html

I do mine through software. But cutting out ther letters and carefully lining them up would work also.

I've been getting mine from Mike's workshop. All are available on line.

Thanks. a good lookin wife will do that to you.

Jerry, i was looking at your profile and it says your were born in 1917, you do good for 101 years old, RJ

Sounds like old school is the way to go if you don’t want to spend a lot of time learning software. My trouble is if I don’t do something very often I forget all I knowed. LOL

That is how I do it. I make a master sheet and then copy for further use if need be. I too do not know how to use the pattern makers software.

Well, I had problems with my Excalibur upper clamp chuck day one straight out of the box.. the saw run good but the clamp was less than desirable.. I had posted a few times in the forums about the issues I had and many seem to think I had a defective clamp to begin with.. My thumb / set screw holes was not centered in the clamp mechanism properly.. I had to center the blade in the thumb screw area.. rather than just put the blade at the back of the clamp like most people do.. it was as if the screw holes was too far forward on the mechanism.. If I put my blade to the back and tighten the thumb screw down.. the thumb screw would miss the blade.. I had to bring the blade forward to catch the thumb screw.. then also had slippage issues from time to time.. I probably wouldn't have bought this set IF everything was working smoothly from that standpoint. But talk about frustrated.. brand new saw that I hated.. I am more than thrilled to actually enjoy cutting on this saw now.. I don't know how much the parts cost for the Excalibur saws clamps.. tension levers etc that wear out.. but I'm thinking if one needs to replace something on their EX clamps.. they'd be farther ahead upgrading to the Pegas.. as I don't see anything that would actually wear out with this new design..

Removing the burr does not dull the main cutting teeth. The first few inches you cut will remove most of the burr. Sanding the back edges will make sharper turns.

Now that is something I will remember.Thanks for the info about the sandpaper.

Some of the reason the PSR #3 blade cuts smoother than the MG #5 is because it's a smaller blade with more teeth.. The more teeth or smaller the blade.. the smoother the cut's edges will be.. This is one reason I like the MG blades as they are slightly faster or more aggressive cutting.. where I normally would use a #5 blade with a different brand.. I can cut with a #3 blade with the Pegas MG blade...