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Well I have 4 more motorcycles in the glue up stage. Then tomorrow I can put the clear coat on it. Racers are awfully anxious to get these. This is what I have been doing after work and on weekends when it isn't too hot in the garage. Jim

Finally got around to framing this raven cut from old birch flooring, mounted on engineered flooring sample framed with maple from a entertainment unit

I tend to pick something beyond my skill level but this is the first thing I cut out with my scroll saw. The little leaf is the first marquetry project.

Hey Everyone, Just wanted to introduce myself to the community. My name is Jason Henry and I live in the foothills of the Beautiful Cascade Mountain Range(Washington State). I have spent the last 10 years dedicated to producing Amazing cut ready DXF files for the CNC cutting industry (laser, plasma, waterjets). I really enjoy creating wildlife related design work but feel comfortable creating just about anything anyone could possible want or need. I would like to try my hand at creating printable PDF patterns for the Scroll Saw cutting industry. I am attaching one of my first PDF designs to this post to hopefully get some feedback on it. I am interested in creating some really awesome patterns for everyone so if you have a chance please take a look at the attached PDF file. Let me know if you have any suggestions on how I can improve on the PDF file I uploaded. Also, If anyone is interested in having me create a design for them you can email me at jasonhenrylives@yahoo.com or message me on this site. I currently have a website set up but only have a few designs added to it right now. www.scrollsawartpatterns.com Thanks! JH Cowboy Horse Welcome Sign.pdf

Thanks for that spirithorse, I see what has happened now. As Steve has released the pattern I can use it but I will, of course, credit Steve as the designer. I was thinking simple design, simple cutting, I could probably start this as Segmentation and paint with Acrylic paint and finish with a coat of spray varnish. take care Don W PS Thank you everyone for the interest shown in this little project. I was at the 'Shed' this morning and the 'techie' crowd were in setting up wireless routers etc. I didn't get much time on the lathe project I have to finish before I can get the scroll saw classes started but there is a bit of interest from half a dozen people so that will be enough to get started I think. Again thank you all.

Hey Everyone, Thanks for all the kind reply's. I am hoping to keep contributing. If anyone needs some help with custom designs for scroll saw cutting let me know. I would like to learn more by working with a few individuals on creating and cutting some custom design work. You can email me at jasonhenrylives@yahoo.com or message me on this website. Here is a couple new designs I was working on today. Hope you all like it! Bull Elk Oval.pdf Bull Elk.pdf

Finished 3 tissue boxes on Saturday, Sold the Elephant one at Sunday's markets. The dragon design I have cut before, The butterfly and Elephants are new designs and 1st time cuts. Pine with Jarrah Trim. I use felt to back the cuttings.

I cut this out for my 10 year old niece for her birthday. Piece looked like it’d be quite fragile by itself so I decided to cut from thin B.B. ply and glue it to a star shaped backer from walnut. Dipped in Danish oil today and in a few days I’ll top coat it with some lacquer. Wrote a little birthday message on the back and dated it so she’ll have a lifetime treasure

Just finished this one .It seemed to take me ages but I finally got there .The reason I am showing it is because of the large amount of Scroll Saw work involved in it.I am Quite happy about how it turned out but doubt if i would attempt something like this again .I have plenty of patience for my Scroll Saw work but not for something like this. Cheers Peter

Good photos Kevin. I do not use the little holes for tightening the clamp. I find it fiddly. I just tighten by hand.

Okay here is some pictures , not sure you can see the set screw in this clamp opposite of the thumb screw. Then there is the picture of the hole for your blade changes, then I took one with the clamp in the hole for doing a blade change. The other pictures are of the two slots in which you set the blade holder into in the lower arm. The front slot is for a less aggressive cut or for thin wood cutting the one toward the back of the arm is for thick wood cutting or a more aggressive cut. I personally always use the front one and see little to no difference in the aggressive cutting from either slot. I do notice with it in the back slot I don’t get as good of a cut not squared. Not a huge deal other than cutting puzzles for me anyway or stack cutting.

There is a set screw on the opposite side of the thumb screw on the lower blade holder.. Your clamps are just like what Les posted above.. I just watched your 2nd video you posted the other day.. The lower clamp is there in the lower arm.. your video shows the set screw being in there.. as well as on the upper blade clamp.. That blade clamp comes out.. in order to change blades if you look on the right side of the saw on that brace that runs along side the upper arm.. there is two different sets of holes drilled into that.. You put your holder roll pin into one of those holes and the upper lip on the clamp should lock over the top of that upper brace.. this holds it while you loosen / tighten the thumb screw for changing the blades..

Les, is there an anvil on the back side of the blade clamp where the blade gets pushed up against? On my saws, there is an allen screw that is the anvil for the clamp. I can't see well enough on your pics to tell but I think there is.

Very nice Ray. It was nice you included Bobscroll in the cutting.

Thanks but you are missing the point. I have already done this project. I WANT to learn how to use Inkscape and I thought this would be a great way to do it.

Your lower clamp should look like this with exception of the round knob which is not from Hawk. I don't know where one would use an allen wrench. However yours is a 226 and mine is a 220.

So if i read that correctly, you just want to make the edge a tiny bit wider and not grow the whole piece correct? If it were me, its pencil time. Its only a tiny bit, just print it the size you want and draw it in. Could be done with it by now instead of trying to teach yourself a whole new thing. Just me though.

How about going to a lock shop and buying a small tube of powdered graphite? I used to use that stuff on all mating metal surfaces. It's messy but it works. Better than a spray can.

Paul, I got into carving while we were out on the road. It was the only hobby that didn't require a lot of space or weight. We were parked in Lady Bird Johnson Municipal Park in Fredricksburg, Tx. and the Texas State Woodcarvers Guild were there on there annual campout. The park was right next to an airfield and just beyond that was the fairgrounds. After chatting with some of the carvers, they invited me to attend their seminar at the fairgrounds and take advantage of the sellers who were there. I bought a starter carving knife, a small set of mini knives, a book and a couple pieces of bass wood. One of the carvers handed me a cowboy boot that he had carved along with a "cut out" of a boot that was the basic shape. He told me the finished one was the "looks like" and I should finish the cutout to look like it. So, that was my first carving. I have since done a few others. I have started many, finished few. But, I have nice set of knives now, along with a knowledge of how to sharpen them and all the stuff that I need. It's like any other hobby. Half the fun is in acquiring the "stuff" to do it with. Anyway, what I'm trying to get said is, basic carving is not that hard. The hard part is getting beyond that point and like scrolling, it just takes practice. I'm no artist. I have no eye or imagination. BUT, I can copy anything. So, give it a try. I think you'll find it fun and it's a thing that can be done while sitting in front of the tube. My wife even gave me permission to do it as long as I clean up after myself. She did set down her foot to me bringing my scroll saw into the house though. DARN! Oh, and getting back to the original subject, if you take the time to just do the first project in that book on marquetry, you'll have all the basics you need. Then it just becomes the part of finding the right colors of wood, the grain direction, etc. It is fun. This whole hobby is fun.

The photo that Don shown was my version of the pattern by Steve Ramsey. I said correct because the earlier post mentioned where to find the pattern and I was just replying correct and the was my piece you were showing. I'm not on here regularly do to my real job. I travel normally every Monday thru Wednesday and I'm not on the internet much during those days.

Nice stuff - thanks for sharing them

Very Nice!!

very nice

Very nicely done. Those all came out great. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW

They look Fantastic!! I can see why they are Anxious to get their hands on them.

Hi. I am Innar from Estonia . 42 years old carpenter and i love woodworking. I discovered scroll saw videos 2015 in Youtube and i fell in love instantly. Then I began to search scroll saw for myself. Found Delta 40-560 two speed (used) in Finland and bought this. Very good saw for beginner. With one problem - no spare parts available. But we estonians love challenges. If the are no parts available, then you find a friend who will do the piece you need. Simple! Sold for now back to Finland and still working. Then I found Hegner Multimax 2 (used) in the market. Again in Finland! It came with original stand. I still use it. Spare parts can order from Germany. Thank you all here in SSV and all pattern makers. All my free time (if I have some) im scrolling. Innar PS. Sorry for my english. Self study.

well done sir!

BTW, If anyone is interested in seeing the artwork I have created for the CNC industry you can see a lot of the design work on www.freedxf.com and www.cncdxffiles.com.

Those look great Jim. Did you do those on the new Hawk?

Simple(?) but so beautiful... I think I have that book, I just have a very difficult time getting through "how to" books. I am more of "show me" person and no one in my area does it... Oh well, I also have a on going desire to do wood carving,,, the characters that people carve.. and absolutely no talent for it.

Nice work. IKE

Hi, Don, Unless I am mistaken, you misinterpreted Brian's reply when he said ,"That was my piece". I believe the pattern design is from Steve Ramsey(although he said he used someone else's coloring page to make it) and he shared the pattern to be used by anyone. Brian made the scarecrow and he acknowledged that the pic you showed was the one he cut, not his design. God Bless1 Spirithorse

Great cutting and a fine pattern. Ralph, tell your grandson DO NOT go looking for any chow line and DO NOT go looking for a Bosun's punch! Bosun is actually a Boatswain but, is usually pronounced Bosun. Just a couple of the inside jokes that the old salts pull on the new recruits. Tell the grandson good luck on his enlistment. God Bless! Spirithorse

Good to hear Dom. We can try to bring Brian’s attention back to this thread as well so he can see you are seeking his help. We can do that by adding an @Bpardue here. Good luck with your classes.

This thread can apply here as well. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/29481-stain-first-or-glue-up-first/

Wood glues work best when they can soak into the wood. If the urethane gets on the surfaces being glue it can compromise the bond. I recommend you glue first.

No modification is needed to use Pegas blades on our Hawks.. they are just standard pinless blades like any other pinless blades.. The blade chucks are a after market retro fit for the poorly made blade chucks from Excalibur, DeWalt and Jet saws.. since these saws use a lower quality cast aluminum with steel threads on the thumb screws = junk clamps for these saws if you aren't careful.. but the Pegas upgraded clamps are a very well made upgrade..

Well, I had problems with my Excalibur upper clamp chuck day one straight out of the box.. the saw run good but the clamp was less than desirable.. I had posted a few times in the forums about the issues I had and many seem to think I had a defective clamp to begin with.. My thumb / set screw holes was not centered in the clamp mechanism properly.. I had to center the blade in the thumb screw area.. rather than just put the blade at the back of the clamp like most people do.. it was as if the screw holes was too far forward on the mechanism.. If I put my blade to the back and tighten the thumb screw down.. the thumb screw would miss the blade.. I had to bring the blade forward to catch the thumb screw.. then also had slippage issues from time to time.. I probably wouldn't have bought this set IF everything was working smoothly from that standpoint. But talk about frustrated.. brand new saw that I hated.. I am more than thrilled to actually enjoy cutting on this saw now.. I don't know how much the parts cost for the Excalibur saws clamps.. tension levers etc that wear out.. but I'm thinking if one needs to replace something on their EX clamps.. they'd be farther ahead upgrading to the Pegas.. as I don't see anything that would actually wear out with this new design..

Does the Hawk 226VS use a allen wrench to adjust the lower blade clamp? Mine didn't have one come with it.

If there are any lurking Aussies who use J & C Thin Timbers, I think they have shut up shop. I tried ringing them today and their phone is disconnected. Bugger. Marg