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2 of my latest cuttings. Cut from 3mm hoop pine ply using FD #3 Spiral and Pegas #3 mod. Framed with Pine stained to colour and 3 coats of 30% gloss lacquer. The 1970 Falcon 351GT was the fastest 4 door production sedan in the world. They are worth a small fortune if you are lucky enough to still own one. The pattern is mine made for me from my photo by a mate. The Indian (That bloody Indian) I swore quite a few times cutting that. The pattern is by Sam Custodio. Both cuttings are A3 size

Finished this 68 Mustang GT Fastback, done on 1/2" Oak, #5 FD reverse and FD#1, Steve Good pattern.

Just done a two day craft fair at Papplewick Pumping Station, http://www.papplewickpumpingstation.co.uk with my 5 yr old grandson and between us we managed to cut a Giraffe (he peddled) as well as some keyrings and other stuff on a Hobbies A1 treadle saw. So as a thank you for his help I made him this Steve Good Toy. ball toy.mp4

Here is my last cut - present for my friend (he likes fishing) Birch plywood 4mm (about 1/6 inch), flat blades NIQUA Weiss #1 Finishing - glossy varnish, frame - stain, glossy varnish Pattern is available at https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

Thought I'd make a couple of boxes with some off cuts laying around while the CNC was engraving a pattern in the lid. Yes I might be using this a lot it's great to be doing other things while my little robot does it's thing. Roly

I've done the pattern that you made for me and although I'm not happy with my work, the pattern is awesome. So would like to say "many, many thanks for your time and patience". This was done on my little Pin End saw and I've never done anything like this before, but I'm hoping to do it again on my 'new' saw once it's been set up for me.

Well one thing in my experience with the stock clamp is the sliding part never worked very smooth.. so.. it never really un released the tension to the same spot every time.. so each time I did a fret cutout and went to the next hole.. the tension for the next hole was different than what I have previously set it at in my first install of the blade. and each time I change to a new fret to cut... I never had consistent tension every time all the time like I do with my Hawk saws.. One thing to note too.. the two pieces of the stock clamp that the one slides on the stationary one was a very sloppy fit together.. and was always getting cockeyed and jammed up and sticking.. probably some slick dry lube or something could have done wonders maybe for that stock clamp.. I just feel this design is very sloppy on the stock clamp for a... what most would say is a higher end saw.. certainly not high end in my book with the poor clamping design.. otherwise the saw seems to be made very well.. Hawk / Hegner quality? No way!.. nice saw to use? Yes once I replace that clamp to the Pegas upgraded clamp.. So with that all said.. I too had trouble with mounting the blade in the clamp.. because my upper clamp didn't always release in the same position every time.. and you cannot see the blade way back there in the clamp to know where it's positioned at.. which your method sounds like it would work well.. and I think it could have been just a learning curve for many that are new to the saw.. In my case.. many have mentioned that I may have had a defective clamp.. could be I don't know.. I do know the design itself was very poor in my book.. the way it fit together to the fixed piece.. defective? Maybe.. and I hope so really.. if all of them are just made this sloppy I would think there would be many more complaints about this.. Most I've read is stripped out threads.. and I see that for the DeWalts as well.... though I've run my DeWalt for 10 years every day and 2 years on and off after that.. and it still has the same clamps and thumb screws etc...

My Grandson is a hockey player. I made him a key rack last Christmas and I am not sure it got put up. On Wednesday we had him visit for the day and he cut his number out all by himself and painted. He then went home and had the key rack and numbers put up in his room. The number really added to the theme. ( I now have 3 more grandkids to do numbers)

Hi Every one. My name is Don . I have a new Dewalt 788 this is my 4th scroll saw been away from sawing for 10 years. I do wood turning and carving. retired welder love working with wood since I was a kid.

One more ornament project 6 layers (5 and 1 background), painted MDF 3mm (about 1/8 inch), 7 x 7 inches, blades: NIQUA Ultra #1 This one and another 10 layered pattern are available at: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

Oh ya, this is Travis' thread,,,, sorry I aided and abetted the hijacking!! To be honest, though Ray I have never adjusted that screw on the left side. I slipped a credit card up there once to check it and mine is and has always been just barely a fraction of an inch proud of the side of the clamp. I could feel were it was with the card, but it didn't hinder the card at all. The only reason I would like to try a set of Pegas clamps is to see if I notice any difference in vibration. Both my Ex and Seyco have a vibration that I can feel. I have always attributed it to the stand I have used with both. It is home made and sitting on wheels. The vibration is nothing I would give up my stand for. I do not question that the Pegas clamp is better, in that it is made of better material. And if I needed to change clamps because mine were bad, I would replace them with Pegas, but I can't afford the luxury of changing just because...

Well, I am now back in business. It seems that tapping the side of the switch housing with a hammer, and block of wood, did the trick. I had forgot to mention that I had lost that 'Click' , when toggling the switch off and on. But that sound, and feel is back, now, and everything seems to be fine. Before usage, though, I AM going to cover that switch, and marry my saw to the foot-switch that I have. I thank everyone who tried to help me.

I center the blade as best I can on both top and bottom clamps.. then I use a small square to set the table to the blade.. then I use that square and manually raise and lower the saw through a cutting stroke with the square next to the blade to see that the blade is square to the table throughout the blade stroke.. I then adjust the anvil ( set screw ) either top or bottom so the blade it plumb to the table in both top and bottom clamps.. If you don't have a small square that will fit under the arm through the blade stroke a credit card or something comes in handy as a straight edge LOL

Hummm, don't know if I can explain this in type but I will try. When I put the blade in the top clamp, and I put it into the top clamp first (Were talking new blade or changing a blade), I hold the blade in my left hand between my index finger and thumb. I slip it in at the correct height so only that amount is sticking above my index/thumb. That is how I hold it at the correct height, my index finger is at the bottom of the clamp while I tighten the thumb screw... I them put the blade into the bottom clamp. That make any sense? I just don't get it. I do detailed fret work mostly, some pieces with several hundred cuts, and I have done it with Excalibur and Seyco (same clamps) and the only thing I have had to do with champs is, on the Ex, I wore out the tension lever on the clamp. I replace it. I just do not see the problem with the OEM clamps. Maybe if I could try some Pegas clamps I would see it. Maybe I need to get a set just to see what all the fuss is about....

I second all the comments made on the pegas blade chuck it is a great addition.

Yes, I also been there done that with my DeWalt.. why they never put a dust cover over the switch is beyond me.. other than cost cutting.. LOL Before I got the foot switch.. I took a old latex glove and cut it up to make a cover for my switch and taped it on.. never an issue after doing that.. I might suggest if blowing the switch out gets it working.. do something similar and you should be good to go.. then it might save you from having the switch short out and burn up.. and then needing a new one..

I had that issue a few times and it was always the switch. Just had to blow the dust out and it worked. I ended up buying a foot switch and never had that issue again. Kurt

Well, this is hard... To each his own... I have had Craftsman, DeWalt, Excalibur, Hegner and Seyco. I can only say of these saws, if I could only have one,,, Hegner would be it.. Excalibur second and Seyco third, only because I like the head tilting on the Excalibur a little better than the Seyco... I can not speak for the Hawk. I would really love to get one to try. Maybe one of these days I will.

Ever try sitting in the back seat of one?

I don't make stuff for friends and family. They don't appreciate it. They might like it ok but I put a lot of passion into what I do and I think I deserve to be paid for it. If I want them to have something I just give it to them. I also don't do commission stuff. Again, people don't understand what is involved in what they think might be a simple piece.

There are two factors that have not come up yet. That is quality and location. I have been to craft shows and seen people trying to sell pieces that don't rate the burn pile. You know unsanded, bubble in the finish, broken fret work, cheap materials,etc. This effects the pricing. Your pictures seem to show quality craftsmanship. More importantly is your location. I live in a rural area in the middle of now where. I can't get the same prices as the folks in the suburbs of Washington DC or New York or Denver.

Reclaimed Ash flooring , mounted on a drawer bottom framed with an old Sherwood pmp, Paul Coffey’s old stick choice. Lol

You know what? I've fixed more than one tv by doing the same thing with the flat of my hand against the outside of the cabinet. Back in the days when they used tubes they would get sort of corroded and a good whack once in a while kept them going.

Boy, are those delightful. Extremely nice work on all of them. Dick heppnerguy

I'm In no hurry when I cut so the EX saw may not be for me and the Hegner costs more than the Hawk so I think I will continue to look for a used Hawk for awhile then decide whether to get a new one.

I love the Indian!

Kevin, I think you must have had a defective clamp as I find mine doesn't have that problem. My biggest gripe is in trying to get the blade in at the correct height but maybe Paul has the fix for that. I'm going to put a set of Pegas clamps into my budget in the near future and see if that fixes everything. Oh, and my apology for seemingly hijacking this thread. I said I wasn't going to do that anymore but here I am doing it again.

Paul, I'll give your method a try. Another question.....I know this has probably been asked and answered a thousand times but here goes. Each clamp, both top and bottom has a thumb screw and the mating "anvil" on the opposite side. I have read both ways to adjust this anvil. I like it so it is set flush with the inside wall of the slot where the blade goes. But, from what I have read and heard, you are supposed to adjust it so it is partially into the slot and centered so the blade is centered in the slot. I find that makes it more difficult to install the blade. What is your take on this? Anybody else want to chime in?

Without a doubt, it’s the switch. If you are a handy guy, you can fix it yourself as I have many, many times. Let me know, and I will tell you how to do it.

Very nice cutting on all three of them, thanks for sharing.

Awesome cuttings!! I like both very much.. but that Indian.. Wow! I'm not a huge motorbike enthusiast... but just love to see details in a cutting like this.. those fine details is what make a image just pop.. coming from a sawyer as well I can see how these types of cuttings can test your patients... but the gratitude of a job well done when finished is priceless.. I've cut a few ( very few ) of these type of cuttings.. the WoW factors you get when people see it makes it so worth the effort.. Great job!

As Scott said.. you can see the top of the blade as the upper clamp is really designed similar to the DW788 in than aspect.. I have to be honest.. before buying the pegas clamp I was really not impressed with the Excalibur.. and was going to sell it.. Now I've been using it instead of the Hawk.. I like the more aggressive cutting ( faster ) than the Hawk.. yet I can tune the blade movement to be able to do those tight inside corners with ease.. and have a faster cutting saw. the original clamps was a pain for me to put blades in.. and might not have been so bad had I been a top feeder.. but dealing with the upper clamp on every fret... made me want to throw the darn saw in the trash can, LOL Now the blade changes are much like I'm used to with the DeWalt..

great job

I started off with a old Delta two speed 16" saw model 40-560 I think it was.. still have it as it was my Fathers first saw.. Then that broke and while waiting on parts to repair it I borrowed my brothers Ryobi and I think it was a SC164VS.. Saved some money and bought a 16" craftsman not sure the model but had a angle guide built into the table.. not sure why I mention this saw because I never used it.. brought it home and unboxed it.. thing vibrated right off the bench almost.. and the variable speed wasn't working.. so I packed it back up and took it back.. saved a little more money and bought a Dremel 1800 that had the disc sander on the side.. used it for about a year and wore out the connecting rod at the back of the saw that connects the upper and lower arms.. ordered parts and repaired it and within 6 months it was getting worn again.. so saved up and bought my DeWalt ran it for about 3 years before needing a rebuild.. Bought an old Delta SS350LS to use while rebuilding the DeWalt.. That Delta was a nice saw.. but I sold it for some reason.. Then when my trusty old DeWalt was starting to get noisy again.. I started looking for a back-up saw.. wanted a higher end saw to just keep as a back-up.. bought my old Hawk 220VS 3 years ago and did upgrades to it.. Kinda been using it since.. Then I found the deal on the 226 Ultra and then not too long after than I found the deal on the new Excalibur EX-21 that I couldn't refuse.. All of this said.. of my experience If I could only have one saw.. t'd be a tough call between my Hawks and the Excalibur.. Now that I bought the Pegas upgrade blade holders.. I love the Excalibur.. Before the upgraded blade chucks.. it'd have been the Hawk hands down.. and would still be the Hawk if the Hawk was as aggressive cutting as I am accustom to.. since the Hawk is slightly slower cutting.. I choose the Excalibur.. both are easy to do blade changes.. If you are accustom to cutting on the less aggressive saw.. you may want to stick with a Hawk.. as you may find the Ex types saws may cut faster than you are wanting to.. you can do things to slow it down though as it's much easier to adjust blade speed or go to less aggressive blade etc.. Harder to go from a aggressive cutting saw when you're used to cutting fast and then go to a less aggressive saw and want to go faster.. I think the Hawk saw would be a good one to teach your daughter to saw on.. because they are less aggressive cutting and it's easier to get those sharp turns and corners on one of the Hawks than the Ex style saws.. Good luck on whatever you decide..

I bought an Excalibur a few years ago and the main reason was that it was very similar to the DeWalt it was replacing, that I had owned for over 10 years. I considered Hawk and Hegner and while I'm certain I could have gotten used to a different style of saw, the reputation of the EX gave me confidence that I was making a good choice. My point is, if you are currently happy with the Hawk, why not get another one? I've read many posts from users and can't recall too many that ever had anything negative to say about them. That seems like the lowest risk option. If the new saw will be for your daughter, the Dewalt/Delta saws are very user friendly and would be easy for her to learn, but then again, the Hawk would be easier for you to teach her. Good luck and have fun making sawdust!

I'm mainly looking for how the blade is changed. I really like the way blades are changed on my Hawk and just wondered if the rest were similar. I looked at a Porter Cable in Lowes and there is no way I could get my fat fingers in there to the lower clamp.

Very nicely done. Those both came out great. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW

Very nice work !.....

Those my friend came out great. That was a lot of work. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW

I like!

Beautiful job!

For openers on the Pegas clamps you can see the top of the blade. This is a great plus. On my original clamps I could never align thin blades to keep them from bending. On my Pegas clamps I have been using 2/0 blades with out a single issue.

I use a Dremel and if the piece allows, I will use the Dremel drill press attachment. If not, I use the Dremel with a speed square to help guide me.

In my humble opinion nothing runs like a dee, er ah a Hawk. But then what do I know as that is what I have.

Nice work thanks for sharing

It is really a lioness. And it is a great piece. I like the frame. Makes me think of African costumes. They wear lots of color. No matter the color. Is that pattern available? I have never seen it. @wombatie (Marg), should make on the shape of Australia, with a Kangaroo in it. That would be neat.

Kevin, I can relate to one of the things you wrote. Years ago, when I was in the real estate business, I had bought a small piece of land that we were going to build on. Well, we never did so I put it up for sale with a price that would have given us back what we paid for it. It sat there for a few months and didn't sell. So, I took it off the market for a couple of months and then re-listed it about 25% higher. The renewed listing got some interest by other agents and it sold for the higher price. So, yes, sometimes you have to "overprice" something to get it sold.

Best advice I've seen.. You really have to just test the waters and see what works for you and in doing the testing... yes you will loose and win.. I don't look at loosing money as a loss.. because it is also a learning experience that you can't get without trying..

G'day Ray, I find that I "guestimate" the time involved in a project. I am usually working on a number of things at once, so an accurate time is not possible, or more like I can't be bothered spending the time to time the time taken . I have found over the years that there are a number of sticking price points eg $20, $50, $70, $100, $150 etc. That is if you can price under these, good, If you have to go above you may as well go quite a bit above. EG if someone is prepared to pay $50 they will in all likelihood not baulk at $65. I use roughly $20 per hour, it's always an under estimate, as I don't factor in time taken to purchase timber, hardware or travel etc. Then I have a good look at the piece and decide the asking price. As JT has said, make notes of the prices you sell pieces for, because you can bet your life, if you take a punt as you can't remember what you sold it for previously it will come back to bight you on the behind. The main thing is to ask yourself what you want out of the work, Enough to replace materials, buy a new tool every now and again and have a beer, or do want it to supplement your income?.

I recently posed this same question. I got some very good answers and advice. What I have come to is this. I look around out there at what people are spending on cheap imported mass produced crap and decided that I would put a price on what I make that makes me happy. If nobody buys what I have to sell, well at least I enjoyed making it. I'm not going to be Jesse James and hold folks up but on the other hand, I"m not the Tooth Fairy either. My time is just as valuable as anybody else's and the materials are not cheap. So, as a very new novice to this world of scrolling I would say, put a price on your stuff that will make you happy if you sell it. Nothing more, nothing less.