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Thanks goes to @bobscroll for this pattern. It's a friends birthday in a couple of weeks and I have been working with his wife to come up with a pattern of Man. United. First we thought their logo, thanks Mahendra for the pattern you made for me and then just before I was about to cut she saw the Aussie Rules patterns that I have been working on so decided this would be perfect. It measures a around 16 inches x 4 inches. Its cut from pine and hoop pine ply and cut with 2/0 and Mach 3 Olsen blades. Marg

I sit. Have a very nice and comfortable drafting chair!

1/4" BB, #1 FD Ultra Reverse, 50-50 BLO. Backer 1/8" floor underlayment, Minwax Gunstock stain. I had the opportunity to use my home made circle cutter. Now to pick up a quartz movement and hands.

I want to share with you guys the last set of trophies in have made.

Just finish this pattern from Sue Mey this week

Not too many weeks ago I bought a cheap and cheerful PinEnd scrollsaw and quite enjoyed cutting out silhouette type things and was quite happy with what I had. I joined this forum as it seemed to be a friendly place to learn what else could be done on a scrollsaw. Well !!! I now have an Axminster saw, that is to be put in situ by my long suffering husband, I've had a pattern made for me by a generous member of this community, I've received help and advice that has been invaluable, I've ordered new blades for the aforementioned machine, I've bought a magnifier with light, I've ordered a stool on which to sit whilst scrolling, I've seen patterns that boggle the mind, I've got a load of wood stashed in one of my kennels, a host of new friends and life will never be quite the same again. To say I only joined so that I could see what could be done, I think I can safely say that you folks have changed my life. Thank you all. Brenda

Here is my latest box. The design is cut from 4mm (1/8th) plywood from an old drawer bottom and the box is made from the drawer sides. 25 x 12 x 5cm or 10 x 5 x 2 inches approx. Thanks for looking, Rob

When I first started scrolling, I built a stand for my saw. Not knowing any different, I made it a height suitable for standing and used it for several years. Eventually I migrated to sitting and now have a comfortable, adjustable height, swivel, drafting chair. Whether or not you sit or stand, the key is proper ergonomics. Your body should be positioned such that you don't slouch and that your arms & hands are at a comfortable angle. If the table is too high, your elbows & wrists will be bent at a sharp angle and you will likely find that your hands may get numb after a while. If the table is too low, you will tend to lean over, hunching your shoulders, in order to see what you are doing. This causes stress on your neck, shoulders and back. These same conditions apply to standing or sitting. As for the tilted table, I scrolled for several years with the table flat and for the past several years, I've had it tilted. I prefer the table being tilted slightly. I think it helps achieve a comfortable position, but it's very much a personal preference. As I said, my chair has adjustable height. Sometimes I will adjust the chair slightly, just to change the height a little, which can change up my work position and help relieve stress & strain. If I'm cutting something small & detailed, I might want to be a little closer to the table. If the piece is large and I need more room to swing it, I may sit a little higher. Plus, the chair is also on wheels, so I can swing from the saw in and out or also to the workbench bench and back very easily and comfortably. I would suggest that you not do anything permanent yet, until you determine what is most comfortable. Also, consider your work flow. Does your set-up allow you easy access to other areas for sanding & drilling & other prep work? Some folks will sit and saw for hours at a time. Personally, I like to get up every hour or so, if for no other reason than to stretch a little. I'll use this time to do other tasks to break things up a bit. You will find a process that works best for you. Sorry for the long winded reply. Hope this helps.

...why is the air dead still until I get a paint can in my hand? Now it's blowing about 15mph and spray painting is out of the question.

Uploading so Russell (Birchbark) can see what has come from his fantastic pattern. Very happy with this, especially since its my first attempt at a scroll saw portrait. Still needs to be finished and I am going to make a frame for it. Thanks Russell

Hi Brenda. This is without a doubt the friendliest site I've been on. I belong to two other scroll saw sites but this is the only one I visit. Much of this is due to Travis and the way he runs the site. Also it's easy to make friends here. Glad to have you here!

Welcome to the World of Scrolling! It's Here! Catch you later, Bob

Five gallon bucket on left side of saw! Good for cut outs, pattern edges, and glued/taped bundles of BEAUTIFUL firewood. If you don't mess up every now and then, you lose the desire to get better.

But I have learned planetary alignment, been reminded of Murphy, found out @Scrappile is in the process of deforesting Arizona, etc.

I have an ex cal 21 inch and love it. I keep my DeWalt 788 as a spare. Two years now and no problems.

I ran into this very dilemma..Excalibur vs Jet. Spoiler alert; I went with Excalibur. Here's what went into my thinking: Jet is made by the same manufacturer the OLD Excalibur was. So I think it's safe to say build quality is good and uses many of the same design components as the old Excalibur. Jet makes great tools and I'd be happy with them, for sure. I think there is a bit of bad blood (for those in the know) for how Excalibur disappeared without word, then appears without much of a mention at a new manufacturing facility, acting as if nothing has changed (bad PR in my opinion). So I think people are a little unwary and suspicious about the build quality. The bad reviews I've read, it sounds like their customer service is pretty bad...mostly at getting tech support. I'm not sure if that's because of the company, or because Ray at Seyco has been so good at support and that has reflected back to Excalibur. Anyway, I hope Excalibur steps up their game. But as @Scrappile mentioned, it's still the same design, just a different factory. They've switched factories before without issue (Canada to Taiwan), so I'm guessing (& hoping) that it will be a superb saw still. Unfortunately, the new saw hasn't been on the market long enough for any track record. So time will tell. Here were my deciding factors: The blade on the Jet sits forward further than the Excalibur. Which means there is less surface area in front of the blade to control your work piece. This could be good on your neck/shoulders, but maybe not so good for controlling larger pieces. I don't like the clamping system on the Jet. The top clamp is pretty slick, but I don't like the bottom clamping system. You need to use a removable chuck for the bottom. It can be tricky to slide into place. It can be difficult to set the blade properly since there is no back stop to position the blade. And it's not good for top feeders. With that said, it probably won't take long to get used to it. If I decided to go with Jet, I'd buy the Pegas replacement jaws for the bottom, and maybe top holders. The Jet is a bit more expensive, especially if I'd replace the clamping mechanism to get the saw where I want it. Excalibur supposedly has poor tech support, now. I'm hoping I won't need it. I've been around the saws long enough, I don't think I'll need it. But if I get stuck, the fine folks at SSV know a lot more than me and always willing to help. Excalibur is sold by Home Depot. So if it's terrible, they have a good return policy. Just return it and buy a Jet (which they also sell). LOL I did buy the Excalibur from Home Depot. It's currently on the truck now, and I'll get it in a week or two (sooo slow...I've been spoiled by Amazon). So I can't say anything about build quality. But I'm hopeful. And it'll be a great upgrade from my Craftsman 16".

No Brenda, I've made those kind of decisions, the trick is to learn from them. I no longer set any time limit on projects now, they're done when I'm ready and in the right mindset.

I think we all have. That is why most have a container for decorative fire wood...

You also leave out a few in the price range of the Jet, there is the King saw in 16" or 30", the Excalibur and the Seyco, that you might look into. The Jet is not a favorite of some because the bottom clamp is removed to change blades and bottom feed only.. the same as a Hegner and older Hawks. I have a Hegner, love it and prefer the clamp setup. Once you get use to it putting in new blades or changing blades becomes second nature. Seyco has what some would consider short comings, the head doesn't tilt as far as the Ex or King, but it has a largest table of the saws although there is a rectangle hole in it behind the blade. It doesn't impact the table as far as usability. The table is meant to be covered with their magnetic cover. If you are going to really think it, I would build myself a list of the available saws and list the pros and cons of each. One may stand out even though they are all very similar. Some worry about the quality of the new Ex. I think a little different. The company the saw is being built for writes the specs, and is responsible for seeing that they are met, no matter where the saw is made. So to me it relies more on the company, not where they have their product manufactured. I would look harder at the reputation of the company. Just my opinion. Good luck, it is a difficult decision but all said and done, it is personal choice and what you do with the saw once you get it.

I've been there more times than I care to admit.

I have had my jet for almost 2 years, really love the saw, and have not had any problems with it. I like the top clamp deal where it clamps the blade and sets the tension all in one step, RJ

I will put myself a 'note' above my saw as I must confess I am guilty of being so engrossed that I feel like a guitar string sometimes.

In my shop I sit on a 29" wooden bar stool. All my saws are on factory stands and all flat. I am 5'8" and this setup works for me. The problem I had with tilting my saw and sitting was all the saw dust ended up in my lap. I also do demos for my wood working organization. When I do those I stand and then I can use the saw tilted.

Many times with looking for designs I will search for CNC laser etc plans.. Ran across this etsy seller that has some really cool designs that might interest someone here so I thought I'd share... I like the Harley lamp design.. But anyway.. check some of these designs out.. I'd like to try a few of them but.. wrong time of year right now for me to "play " as I need to get ready for the holiday shoppers.. https://www.etsy.com/shop/ProjectsForCnc/items

My saws are on the manufacturer's stands. They are set so I can stand, but I have an adjustable chair so I can also sit and adjust the chair height as needed. I primarily sit to cut unless I am just making a quick cut. My saws are flat, not tilted though I have considered tilting to see if I like it but I have not done so yet. My saws also have the foot pedals and I have those up higher off the ground so that I can reach them. (Yes, I'm on the shorter side of "average height". ) I presently have a piece of wood across my bottom cross brace on the stand that the pedal sits on.

Another thought on comfortable sawing positions, Check your self every 15 minutes or so and force yourself to relax. I find that I get so engrossed and intense , especially when cutting really fine pieces that I have to consciously make myself relax and stand tall again.

Nice Coffey chair for me please.

I sit and also have the saw tilted, just on a piece of 4" x 2". Bench height and saw position are very much down to personal preference so experiment before finally fixing everything down.

Now that is Niiiiiice. Great choice of background and frame. You and Russell make a good Team

I sit also and no you do not have to tilt the saw. You find the most comfortable position and go from there. All my saws are flat. I do stand at my hegner. I will stand at a sw if I am scrolling large pieces because the corporation in front gets in the way when spinning.

I have always stood at mine. I have a thick rubber mat on the floor, actually I have rubber mats in front of all my benches and machines. Having said that, a few years ago I purchased a U-beaut swivel, hight adjustable, upholstered stool from a garage sale so I can sit. I will have to test it one day.

I sit and I have my saw set at a 2 1/2 " up in the back works fine for me besides @ the age of 79 I can't stand for long periods at a time but i can sit and scroll for hours. IKE

The rear of my table is about three inches higher than the front. That makes it easier to look down on my work and gives me a better perspective on the blade and cut ahead of me. On a flat table I felt I could not see as well. On one of my older saws, I made a block to go under the rear legs to tilt the table.

Sit

Sit. I use a stool that is 29 inches high. The front of my tilted DeWalt is 43 inches.

sit

Thanks guys, not going to say I understand it all,,, but I at least know enough to know not to buy one of the patterns unless it has been converted to a format I can print and use, like .pdf, .jpg. Then if it is a scene, or portrait type I would have to figure out the bridges and such also, right? I really appreciate you taking the time to explain.

Melanie's explanation is great, I guess I was typing as she was posting. I have added a bit more to that. In a nut shell, a typical way is you get a pattern that is in a .DXF format (it is a universal drawing file data transfer format like .JPG is for pictures) Most of the patterns we buy are just a drawing, that drawing has no coordinate or dimensional information. As an example a wooden gear clock pattern published in a SSWWC magazine. the pattern is printed in a 1:1 scale but has no real information. The original was designed in a CAD program like Autocad using specific points, arcs and circles with precise coordinates for start and end points (X,Y coordinates) that is the information needed by the CNC machine. The Autocad design software or any like it allow you to save this data and transfer it in the . The DXF file has all of the dimensional information that will be imported into the drawing program of choice being used to run the the CNC router or laser. Easel being one of the free programs, it comes with the Xcarve machine. If you want 3D routing it gets more complicated and you usually have purchase a higher end program. The drawing program like Easel allows you to put in information like cutter diameter, material thickness, start points etc. It then converts it to the machine language that will control your router. Typically G-code https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code this tells the router where to go, raise/lower turn on the router or laser etc. There is software especially in the laser cutter world that automatically converts an image into a file that the laser can use. You see these Kiosks at the malls that take a photo and etch it into wood fro you. As a scroll saw user you are converting the images in your head and moving the material in the proper directions to follow the lines. Bottom line is, you need to be computer savvy and a bit of a mechanical junkie.

Hey Paul, I took a look at the Etsy shop in question that Kevin posted the link to. The "items" for sale there are all "digital" files. Which means you are getting and downloading a file. You need to look at any file you are interested in and see what file format he is providing it in and make sure that you have a software program that will open that format because they all do not offer the same format(s). Some say they provide the CDR file, some say they provide the .dxf file, some say other formats. Some say they are a zipped file which have a mix of different formats in them like the CDR, a .dxf and maybe an AI file. These are just the few that I quickly looked at. I did not look at all of them to see what all formats he may be providing depending on the file. A CDR file is a Corel Draw file. CDR is a proprietary format to Coral Draw so you would need Corel Draw to open the file. If you don't have it, then you may not be able to use the file unless the owner of the file and Etsy shop is willing to convert it into a format that users who don't have Corel Draw can use. Which means, if the file only contains the CDR file, you would need to reach out to the Etsy shop owner and see if he can convert it to another useable format for you. (Easily done.) A .dxf file is a "Drawing eXchange Format" file that is usually created in an AutoCad type program. Again, a scroller is probably going to need to have the file converted into another format for them to easily use. An AI file, is going to be a file created with Adobe Illustrator. Again, like a CDR file, it is going to be a proprietary file format for AI and unless you own AI, you would need to file converted to open in another program. All of these file formats can easily be converted in Corel Draw, Adobe Illustrator, or other programs that may be used to create them. You, as the purchaser, would just need to know what format you wanted or needed and see if the seller is willing to convert to that format. A universal format that can be saved to is a .svg file. A .svg file can be opened by most programs and would be a good format for the seller to use with all of his files. .svg stands for "Scalable Vector Graphic". It allows you to scale a file up or down without distorting an image like occurs with a bitmap image for example. It is also the default format that the free program, Inkscape, will save to. He could also provide it as a Vector PDF file. Forgot to add, when talking about using the files with a CNC machine, you have to have the file and open it in the software you use with your CNC cutter. You have to go in and tell that software what to do with each line or part of an image, whether it is being cut out completely, whether it is being carved, what depth, etc., Once you have done that, you then have to export those "directions" out in a format that your cutter understands in order to create the actual physical item. This can take a while. The benefit it has is that once you have all that done and saved, you can then more easily recreate the item. That is just basic, general information that I hope explains generally what you wanted to know Paul.

Or, I just filled my weed sprayer with everything killer and the wind starts....

Nice design for lid & lovely 45 deg cuts. Roly

Excellent work as always Luis, well done. Marg

Sit for me. I have terrible bad feet so standing is a killer for me.

Thank you John, they go quick after doing thousands of them since 2004!

Excellently done Rob. That came out great. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

You are the king of trophies.

Very nice box and great cutting.

Yep you have to wait until Mars and Venus are in the house of Saturn . . . or was it Jupiter . . . or maybe it was Neptune . . . Sorry - I'm an old guy - I forget.

Before your hubby makes a bench that is tilted, just prop your saw up in the back and try it both flat and angled. It is personal preference. I've trued it both way and prefer flat. It may be related to the type of scrolling one likes to do also. Not sure. Best thing would be to make it so you could raise and lower the back then you could switch off. I was always going to fix one of my saws so I could do that,,, but alas,,, just another thing I didn't or at least haven't gotten around to.

Wow, does the saw have to be 'tilted' to be able to 'sit' at it and if so at what angle ? Who knew that cutting bits of wood could be so complicated ??