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Here is my latest effort.

Hi , I got my first scroll saw a couple of weeks back and thought its about time to stop practicing doing wiggly lines and try to make something I have Kathy Wise's book so tried to follow along with her beginners project and she said if its your first time use a soft wood to make it easier to do, so I bought a bit of Red Cedar, I hadnt seen Cedar before , I guess we dont grow it in the UK, but it cut and sanded easy and it smells great when its cut I know I have a lot to learn and you will see that in my picture but all in all I was quite pleased with my first atempt. Its had just one coat of varnish which I will rub down when its dry and give a couple more coats but here it is so far Remember its my first try so be gentle with me Don

Its all done with the scroll saw frame included. I cut all the pieces out and mark them on the back what color they need to be painted. Once I am done cutting I tape them all to a piece of card stock by color, one piece of card stock per color. I spray paint them all and reassemble it all. i use wood glue to hold it all together. To shade with the spray can i use two cans at a time. an example is the fish which i paint with gray and white an the same time. Its easier obviosuly because th epieces are separate on their own piece if card stock. Its technically just a silhouette but instead of tossing the pieces I keep them and put them back in. This in not this particular piece but it will give you an idea in an in work one.

Saw the owl posted by @neptun and had to cut it. 1/4" BB 9 X 10" cut completely with Sawbird 2/0 spiral (am getting used to these darn spiral things lol). The baby angel is a @Kenny Hopkins pattern, 7 X 13", three in 1/8" BB. Jeff

the host asked me if i could do the blues borthers for him. i decided to give him a choice. these 3 are reverse . painted 2 black and one steel blue with accent colors . for this one i took one of these negatives and placed it on black poster board. i than put spray glue the cutouts and pushed then through the holes to glue them to the poster and them removed the negative. here is the result.

I couldn't fathom out why my scrolling was not going to plan today. I'm new to this scrolling stuff so it was very strange. The wood kept jumping, the blade wouldn't do a curve, my pattern was lifting at the edges. I checked my tension, that was ok. I checked the blade was aligned, it was.. I spoke nicely to the machine, that didn't work. I patted it on it's arm. I promised to give it a good clean later, it didn't care one jot. I cursed the piece of wood I was working with, thinking I'd picked a 'bad un'' off the shelf. Finally I came to the conclusion that the blade must be dull, although I'd not used it much, so I went to change it... and lo and behold.... I'd put it in UPSIDE DOWN !!! A while back I broke my first blade and today I did this, so as I say ''there's a 1st time for everything''. Now having a coffee !!!!!

My Grandson enlisted in the Navy about 4 months ago and is now in San Diego. His mother is coming to Arizona tomorrow and on Friday we are driving there to meet up with him. I decided last evening to cut him a plaque. I looked through several Navy Plaques and decided on this Steve Good pattern. I thought all the chain centers were going to take me a long time to cut but the whole item was less then three hours. That surprised my some, for sure Dick heppnerguy

You are not inventing anything new! We all do these things sometimes. The trick is after you do it few times you will know exactly what the problem is by the symptoms you are experiencing. I've it many time, plus put then in backwards, teeth facing the rear of the saw.... Heck, just yesterday, I put the chain on my chainsaw backwards!! Glad I was using an old chain, not good for the chain or the bar... and doesn't cut at all!!

Krylon offers a re-positionable spray adhesive. I've seen it at Michaels.

Danny, I'm in the UK and I've used 3M, Bostik, own brand from local craft shops and now currently using one from Crafters Companion, all re-positionable. All performed the same. I now buy when on offer, that's why I'm using the one from Crafters Companion which I think I'll stick to because of the price and a local shop.

I use spray adhesive and apply the pattern directly to the wood. I've used blue tape and clear tape. While there may be a marginal benefit of lubrication and cooling the blade, I don't find it being worth the effort, in most cases, so I've pretty much abandoned the use of tape. If the spray adhesive is applied properly, it will peel off without using MS. I do use MS after removal, to make sure I get any residue that remains, then a light hand sanding with 220 grit paper.

Finally got a time to finish this. It actually fit better before I glued it up. I shrunk down the original pattern to make a frig magnet. The glue up was tedious!

Thanks, now I admire your work even more. You had to do some real experimenting and practice to figure this all out. This is really awesome stuff.

Just another old retired fart who now has the space and time to get back into wood working. Always liked doing scroll work but have not done any since high school. Thought I would go big or go home so just ordered a Excalibur EX-21 scroll saw with foot switch. Am sure this saw will meet my needs for a long time.

Been using Walmart clear shelf paper since the first of this year. Have Always had some (very little) wood fibers that were lifted when removing the Pattern. So I say its the Sticky on the back of the Shelf Paper. Blue Tape had this problem as to why I stopped using it. Just Wondering if there has been invented a Better Removable adhesive paper that Will not lift the Fibers? A Proven method I used for a long time was to just Spray g;ue the back of the pattern and apply straight to the Wood blank. Only hang up I didn't like was using the Mineral Spirits to lift the pattern off. Worked Great, but was some Clean up of the Wood blank. SO MY INQUIRY IS WHAT DO ALL OF YOU USE NOW? Thanks for your reply...................Danny :+}

I think FD-UR blades have a little crimp in the top end, so they are marked from the factory. I've often considered the nail polish idea, but my luck, I would get too much on and it would cause the blades to slip out of the clamps. Then I'd end up taking twice as long to remove it all. What I generally do is just hold them up to a bright light. Even though my eyes aren't as sharp as they used to be, I can usually still tell where the reverse teeth are, even on really small blades.

Thanks Bill.... Your bring back Many Memories of just never to worry about the Spray Glue and apply the pattern directly to the wood. I keep a spray bottle of Mineral Spirits and when the Cutting is done I just give the pattern a quick spray and within a Minute the pattern lifts off pretty as you please. Like you said just a good rub with the MS and not much sanding with 220 grit does the trick. Thanks to Everyone for their comments...........Love this Forum.......................Danny :+}

Brenda, it was the first but it probably won't be the last time you do that.

You have some great color combinations there. I did something like that with my Mickey and Betty Boop. All cut out with the scroll saw and then painted the pieces and put it all back together.

Well you can't fault the price cheap considering they cost £7oo new and has a new motor means it's been well used but should last a few more years now. Roly

Thank you, I didn't scroll down far enough to find that forum, my mistake. If Admin wish to delete this one, I've now put it on Hot Deals. Thanks for the heads up Meflick, appreciate it.

Hey Brenda. Posts letting people know that scroll saws are for sale like this are allowed. However, they general prefer that they be posted over in the "Hot Deals & Announcements" subform of the group which can be found here: http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/forum/35-hot-deals-announcements/ so a moderator may come along and "move" the post to that subform. (Just wanted to let you know so if it gets moved, you know why. )

nice job

What is the Brand Name for this spray glue? Thanks............Danny :+}

I have only used blue tape so far, and have had Liftoff when removing it. Last piece, I sanded first, then did 3 coats wipe on water base Poly.....helped quite a bit

Danny, if you use re-positionable spray adhesive on the back of the pattern you can just pull it off and it leaves little or no residue on the wood that soon goes when given a light sanding. I've been using this system for over 20 years and it's been problem free.

Speaking of fonts, thanks Kevin, is there a program that if you pick a font can you type words in and it automatically prints out in the font you chose???

Use purple or green painters tape. Less tack than blue. Blue--Purple---Green in that order.

While this is not the only brand this is one of the most common in the US. If you local Home Depot does not have you should be able to get it in Lowes and ACE Hardware. Well at least in my part of the US. It should be available in California. It is made from alcohol and bug dropping (Shellac Beetle). BTW shellac is even used on candy.

Thanks for the info Kevin. I bought a package of 100 on Amazon for about $11. It will take me a while to burn through them because I try to put as many patterns as possible on each one. It takes some messing around but I get it done.

When I first started using the full sheet labels.. I tried to to just stick the label to the wood.. i had issues with them lifting off.. but never did have an issue with them stuck to the tape or other surface.. But.. those first few labels I got also didn't stick the greatest to my shipping boxes either.. well they did stick okay on boxes but not the poly bubble mailers.. so I ended up taping each end on all the packages I mailed out until they was gone.. that was the only batch that I purchased that wasn't as sticky as they should be.. ever since then they are so sticky now that I'd be afraid they wouldn't come off the wood if i tried that.. can hardly get them off my fingers if I touch it, LOL I buy my labels off eBay.. Typically in large quantities.. and I suspect that they are probably seconds that someone gets from the factory that makes them... and that the glue is not enough or too much for them to be sold as the certain brand.. or fail quality control.. either way... they are cheap compared to buying them local.. I typically pay about $50 for 1000 sheets or approximately $50 a year for them..

Nice work thanks for sharing

I use blue painters tape. If the fibers lift 220 on a ROS solves the issue

I use the shelf liner and or tape.. either blue painters tape or clear packing tape... but the painters tape is not all created equal.. The high dollar stuff you get from a automotive paint supply store is good stuff.. though not cheap at all either.. which is why I use the shelf liner.. The shelf liner works great for me.. IF... I cut out the projects the same day.. or at least finish it up and peel it back off within a couple of days.. I found that using some light heat helps a ton on the stubborn ones... Use a hair dryer or heat gun if needed.. but be warned.. get it too hot and then it sticks worst.. so I found working a smaller area at a time is best... actually the best for me has been just to st it out in the direct sunlight for a few before attempting to remove it does wonders..

I like to cut Steve Good's patterns and I also support his page , year in and year out, as I do The Scroll Saw Village. I so appreciate all Travis and Steve do for our hobby. This was a quick and easy pattern to cut so I thought it would be fun just to cut it and add it to my shop wall. Dick heppnerguy

They all look Fantastic!! I do lean toward the last one myself.

Home Depot: Model # 340444 Internet #305626824 Store SKU #1003317972 leon kc0iv

I spray glue only. There is a trick to it though, As I am sure you know, it can be a complete pain to get the pattern off sometimes. To prevent this i spray the glue but a super super thin amount. Maybe 1 second for the entire pattern. it should not look wet. Then i let it sit for at least 15 minutes. It should be just barely tacky, way less tacky than a post it note, way less. Almost like its not tacky at all. Put it right on,. It will stay in place for the sawing and will come right off when done. Takes a bit of practice but once ytou get it down you will swear by it.

I am keeping my fingers crossed.So far no broken blades,no broken plaques,Just learning more patience having to go slower.

Liquid gold. It is the cheesy goodness that you humbly thank the Lord for before dipping your tortilla chip into (preferably AFTER first dipping it into refried beans). Some places, it is known as "cheese sauce" or "cheese dip", but these places are wrong.

I love the Owl too Jeff! You did well on both them patterns, Thanks for showing, Bob

Actually I don't mind the ear protectors so much. I don't think the noise from the saw and dust collector setup are going to hurt what hearing I have left, but wearing them cuts out background noise,,,,, wife,,,,, ah,,, makes it real quiet and I can focus more one the scrolling.... help me get in the "zone". I don't wear a mask either. I have good dust collection, and with a beard the masks probably would do much good anyway. You can get something like the Resp-O-Rator. They are excellent for dust and you will not fog your glasses. It has a mouth piece like a snorkle. The little one pictured would work fine for scroll saw. There is a bigger one with two filter that I use for when sanding with hand sander and such. I actually have both models.

Love the Owl !....Very nice cutting !

beautiful work

Great job on both! I really like the owl.

They both look terrific Jeff but my favorite is the angel, beautiful. Marg

Dick that came out real well. It is funny because I just pulled that pattern from Steve's files yesterday because I liked the pattern also. Great job.

Great work, thanks for sharing.

That turned out great. Isn't it nice to be a member of this world wide family where others are so willing to share their talents for free? Cutting and posting someone else's pattern, really makes the pattern makers feel good about their help and work . Thanks for sharing and giving credits to the pattern maker. Dick heppnerguy

I talking the a snap that holds clothing shut. The bottom part that you push the snap into or the snap itself if it has a hole like the picture shows. The two pieces on the left of the picture could be used. screw one of them in place and let the rod ride on the top of the scew heat or even a small nail would work. I have pattern of two of these pyramid things that I want to build but I haven't really studied the patterns to determine what they recommend but this snap is a good idea if you are using a rod that will fit. I am very anxious to see how yours turns out.