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Here was my first scroll saw project. The pattern/plan was from a wood working magazine, but I don't remember which one (old age). Nor can I remember the designers name. I was happy with it at the time and my mother still has it up in her place. I'm guessing, but this must have been done about 1992 or 1993.

Extremely hard dense wood, got this repurposed flooring, I had to re saw it in half but this does make nice combs. I cut four, two traditional thin combs lying down and two thicker ones that are a hybrid comb/brush. I left one of them as they are after I cut it but before I shop the tines i addeda pic of all four of them and included two torrified maple combs for comparison

Hi , I got my first scroll saw a couple of weeks back and thought its about time to stop practicing doing wiggly lines and try to make something I have Kathy Wise's book so tried to follow along with her beginners project and she said if its your first time use a soft wood to make it easier to do, so I bought a bit of Red Cedar, I hadnt seen Cedar before , I guess we dont grow it in the UK, but it cut and sanded easy and it smells great when its cut I know I have a lot to learn and you will see that in my picture but all in all I was quite pleased with my first atempt. Its had just one coat of varnish which I will rub down when its dry and give a couple more coats but here it is so far Remember its my first try so be gentle with me Don

Well here are my first 2 scroll saw projects ever. Plan on painting these with an airbrush that I don't have yet. Might as well learn them both at the same time. I had fun making these. The squirrel project definitely challenged me . Just used scrap plywood. Patterns from the book wildlife patterns by Lora Irish.

One more bowl to my collection 13 pieces, birch plywood 4mm (about 1/6 inch), 8 inches diameter , blades: NIQUA Ultra #1 pattern is available at: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

Just another old retired fart who now has the space and time to get back into wood working. Always liked doing scroll work but have not done any since high school. Thought I would go big or go home so just ordered a Excalibur EX-21 scroll saw with foot switch. Am sure this saw will meet my needs for a long time.

Saw the owl posted by @neptun and had to cut it. 1/4" BB 9 X 10" cut completely with Sawbird 2/0 spiral (am getting used to these darn spiral things lol). The baby angel is a @Kenny Hopkins pattern, 7 X 13", three in 1/8" BB. Jeff

Hello everyone again!! This time I bring you a very special cut for me: this beautiful 67´ Mustang GT500. As soon as I saw the design uploaded by @blights69 (so thanks for sharing it), I knew I have to do it, so there is the result It´s made from 5mm plywood, and with a frame made from pine, with a black back. I only made one change: the word "muscle" for "Mustang" and his horse. I left the natural colour of the wood, and really like the contrast. I hope you like it too, cause this one was very emotional to me.

Finally complete! This one took a while to cut because of all of the turns and nooks and crannies, plus having to watch out for some tenuous connections to various islands. I used 1/8 BB ply, double-stacked and taped. Only had two little pieces that had to be re-glued, the barrel shroud and the details of the magazine below his right hand. In retrospect, there was a spot at the end of the barrel shroud that could've been bridged to give it an anchor on both ends. Hindsight being 20/20 and all that. Otherwise, I'm VERY happy with how this turned out! Per my discussion with Joonho Kim (http://tacticaldrawings.com/), I'm not posting a complete picture to discourage anyone from running across the photo and making their own template to cut and sell (images are different sizes and slightly different angles to discourage the same). So this one is going to hang on the wall in my house....the second one, I'm heading to the Post Office and sending to Mr. Kim this morning in thanks for letting me use his art. I discovered a problem in the text when I drilled the first pilot hole for my pin-ended blades....again, in hindsight, I should've gone back and reprinted the text using a larger font, that would've helped the holes blend better. Lesson learned: make sure your pattern has a wide enough spot for pilot holes, if you can't afford a fancy-schmancy new scroll saw. Frame was made out of a piece of 1x2 Poplar, stained Walnut. Backing is something cheap and thin from Lowes, also Walnut. Minuteman was finished with BLO.

I have quickly become a fan of one of our newest SSV family, Jason Henry of Washington State. As many of you have discovered, Jason makes some really great and exciting patterns and I just had to try one of them. So after a couple of days in my shop, I knocked this one out. I am going to attempt to make a frame for it. It is a little larger then I usually cut and there was a lot of detail in the pattern. In fact so much that I sort of got lost as to what a couple of parts were all about. I did modify it a little, as a result. It was a challenging piece to cut but I like the way it came out. I used a 3/0 spiral blade to cut in and I only broke one small piece at the beginning. I hope to cut more of his patterns before too long. I hope you all enjoy this pattern as much as I enjoyed cutting it Dick heppnerguy

Finally got a time to finish this. It actually fit better before I glued it up. I shrunk down the original pattern to make a frig magnet. The glue up was tedious!

Almost finished with this angel intarsia. I think this is Janet Squares pattern.

I have been Scroll Sawing for about six months now. I have always had a interest in woodworking since high school, where I took a couple classes. I had been a very good boy so I got a Scroll Saw for Christmas. I had. No idea what a scroll saw was, or what it could be used for. I did a little research and quickly was hooked. This was my first project I did, which I gave to my Brother In-Law. He likes Dragon Ball-Z, added his initials which is DB.

I couldn't fathom out why my scrolling was not going to plan today. I'm new to this scrolling stuff so it was very strange. The wood kept jumping, the blade wouldn't do a curve, my pattern was lifting at the edges. I checked my tension, that was ok. I checked the blade was aligned, it was.. I spoke nicely to the machine, that didn't work. I patted it on it's arm. I promised to give it a good clean later, it didn't care one jot. I cursed the piece of wood I was working with, thinking I'd picked a 'bad un'' off the shelf. Finally I came to the conclusion that the blade must be dull, although I'd not used it much, so I went to change it... and lo and behold.... I'd put it in UPSIDE DOWN !!! A while back I broke my first blade and today I did this, so as I say ''there's a 1st time for everything''. Now having a coffee !!!!!

Here is my latest effort.

ok, i'm not an expert on acrylic paints so i need some advice. i bought some acrylic paint the other day from Walmart to use on a project i'm working on and come to find out this stuff is like working with colored water. I know there are oil base and water base paint but wasn't sure what would be best. Now i find there is also heavy body acrylic and light body(which is probably what i got from Walmart). It would be nice to be able to just clean up with soap and water too. I appreciate everyone feed back in advance

My Grandson enlisted in the Navy about 4 months ago and is now in San Diego. His mother is coming to Arizona tomorrow and on Friday we are driving there to meet up with him. I decided last evening to cut him a plaque. I looked through several Navy Plaques and decided on this Steve Good pattern. I thought all the chain centers were going to take me a long time to cut but the whole item was less then three hours. That surprised my some, for sure Dick heppnerguy

A few months ago our local Windsor Plywood did a custom job out of two inch aromatic cedar. The scraps ended up in the bargain bin for $3.00/lb, too good a deal to pass up. Played chess when I was younger and had always liked the pattern for chess pieces that Sue Mey has. So decided to give it a whirl. Got some cut and showed them to a friend and he ordered a set out of walnut and aspen. Finished his and then did my light players out of some more of my scrap material (really nice grain soft wood). The first pic is of Kings and Queens of each kind of wood. Walnut on the left, then aspen, aromatic red cedar and then the mystery wood. The second pic is of my friend's set with a display case I threw together for his birthday this month. Third pic is of some the cedar pieces to show the colouring I love. Jeff

Title says it all. Will get my EX21 in a week or two. Is the factory stand worth the price or should I make one? Been thinking of building one with wheels on it so it will be easier to move around. Thoughts?

I'm pretty sure the PVC would work, at least for the pieces going down the side for the handles to slide into..... Maybe for handles also, most the weight is on the wheels. You have to remember, I am soooooooo old, I don't think PVC was invented yet!

I did this for part of the background I did on two of my pieces. I picked out the flags I wanted to us from image search on the internet. I printed them on plain printer paper, than sprayed them with some Krylon clear coat. When I got them cut as I needed to show where I wanted them to I us spray adhesive and attached them to the backer where they needed to be.

@octoolguy something you might consider adding to your stand. My first tablesaw was a Sears contractor saw. 1970 vintage, still in use by my son-in-law. I put some wheels on the back that I borrowed from one of my kid's little wagons, and I attached some pipe on each side of the saw down where it attached to the stand. Then I had two smaller in diameter pipes that I could slip into those pipes and have handles so I could lift the front of the saw up and wheel the saw around like a wheel barrow. When not using the pipe handles, they would sit nicely stored on the pipe I slipped them into when needed. Still is set up that way today and wheeled around that way.

The only saw I have mounted on a factory stand is my Hegner. The rest have been on stands I built using old cabinets I had gathered. The one I had my Ex on and now my Seyco, is narrow enough that I can straddle it, but there is a drawer and shelves in it for storage. I have never really convinced myself that you have to buy "Their" stand because it is specifically made to reduce vibration. I won't argue it because I have never done any comparing and maybe ignorance is bliss on my part.

I like Apple Barrel paint, they have indoor and outdoor.

I don't use paint a lot. When I do I use a product called Plaid. It can be found at Pat Catans or Michael's and come in many colors. Water clean up and stores well.

I've always used Delta Creamcoat acrylic paints. I must get them from Joanne's or Michael's. They are very thick. Have a long shelf life if sealed correctly. Thin easily and clean up with with tap water (although I use distilled water when thining). They comes in a gazillion colors. I get them in 2oz soft plastic bottles, I can squeeze out a few drops or remove the cover and get a larger volume. Finally, my bottles are labeled, Made in the USA.

Excellently done. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

Buying paint from Walmart is why you got watered down paint, try hobby lobby or micheals for a better paint, RJ

Try cutting with a blade put in backward. I can tell you from experience you don't get to far

Well see now this is your only real mistake. You aren't supposed to admit that.

it depends on what I'm doing. If its compound cutting, I use the blue tape. With delicate fretwork, I apply the pattern direct with 3M77, and clean that up with MS. Other times I use white shelf paper. I don't care for the clear shelf paper, It's hard for me to see when it comes time to removing it.

One of the reasons i use a lot of FD Ultra reverse blades, the top has a slight crimp in it !

the host asked me if i could do the blues borthers for him. i decided to give him a choice. these 3 are reverse . painted 2 black and one steel blue with accent colors . for this one i took one of these negatives and placed it on black poster board. i than put spray glue the cutouts and pushed then through the holes to glue them to the poster and them removed the negative. here is the result.

I don't think you have ever cut a piece that I have not liked, some I even loved but every one I have admired your talent. Another amazing piece Tony. Marg

Nice!

Aww, bless you all, however, I don't think I can blame any of the above on either my eyesight or tiny blades. I use PinEnd blades and I was using a thick one to boot. You can see which way up it is from 4ft away

Me too. I think years of scrolling has affected my eye sight. I still put a 2/0 blade upside down every now and then. Just part of the fun.

I used to have a fantastic up close vision. Then I had cataract surgery and that went to Hell. Now, I have to rely on my reading glasses to see anything.

Lovely looking cuts. Roly

the angel is neat IMO but your job on neptunes awesome pattern is nothing short of perfection, crisp and clean cutting for sure. I too have the owl on my to do list but as I do with 99% of my pieces I use 1/2 or 3/4 inch wood so it will be a tedious one for me!

Use purple or green painters tape. Less tack than blue. Blue--Purple---Green in that order.

Nice work thanks for sharing

I use blue painters tape. If the fibers lift 220 on a ROS solves the issue

I use the shelf liner and or tape.. either blue painters tape or clear packing tape... but the painters tape is not all created equal.. The high dollar stuff you get from a automotive paint supply store is good stuff.. though not cheap at all either.. which is why I use the shelf liner.. The shelf liner works great for me.. IF... I cut out the projects the same day.. or at least finish it up and peel it back off within a couple of days.. I found that using some light heat helps a ton on the stubborn ones... Use a hair dryer or heat gun if needed.. but be warned.. get it too hot and then it sticks worst.. so I found working a smaller area at a time is best... actually the best for me has been just to st it out in the direct sunlight for a few before attempting to remove it does wonders..

I bought a new bicycle about 3 weeks ago now. My old one was a better quality bike; but, had never quite fit me right. So I was going to get a new one if I sold it. I did, so I did. This one had the things I wanted anyway, well, sort of. It had an ugly piece of metal hanging in the middle and a short platform on the front and the rear carrier was also just a platform that was also too short to be of any real use. The first thing I did was make a longer rear platform. I liked what it came out like and decided to make a front tray. I used decent sized screw eyes on the bottom to maake a tiedown spot. Then on one of the tool box excavations trips I found some screw eye bolts. Now the rear had to come off again to add them. hen this was completed, I read the comments of this project on Lumber Jocks and one had suggested a sign for the middle. Well T & E designs was given that project. It rolled around in my head for a while. Here is what came from that. Scroll saw was used somewhere on all 3 modifications too. The entire project was made from shop scrap. The wolves and moons are actually hickory flooring scraps. the rest just generic plywood that was lying around. The rear platform is an unknown, I think maple; but, certainly not sure. It was fun and I even kept the original pieces hanging in the shop, in case sometime someone wants to change it back. When I cut the wolves, I had a piece of plastic between the wood slabs to make a template at the same time.

Usually what works for me in this situation is raising the price by 30% then offerng 25% off.. they think they're getting a deal... really amazing what goes through a shoppers head.. sometimes the price is too cheap so they see no value in it... other times you need to make them feel like they;re getting a great deal.... I toy around with prices and customers a lot.. I find that raising the price actually works better than one would really think, LOL...

Cut from Japanese cherry blossom repurposed flooring EDIT: meant this to be in the works in progress section! Sorry mods go ahead and move should you wish!

I'm totally new at this... I bought my saw (Delta) less than a month ago. My first cutting, oh my what a mess, not going to show that anywhere. From it I learned many things, notably: 1) photo-reducing a pattern makes it really hard to cut, 2) oak with its wild grain is not a good thing with a spiral blade in the hands of a beginner, and 3) "scrap" oak with a huge warped cup to the stock is seriously hard to control! I think I redefined the words "wobbly cuts" on that mess. The next thing I cut was this little trivet, out of half inch cherry, and using a skip tooth blade. I learned that cherry is really hard wood! Linseed oil finish. I can't wait to start something new, now...

Just picked up the saw last night, this was my first try

Yes, KM is correct. Welcome to the forum! Were I in your position, my friend, I would take a look at polar blades. The polar blade can make those turns with ease, and you'll have a far better looking project than with spiral blades. Make no mistake, spiral blades have their place, but, I personally wouldn't recommend them for what you're doing. For your inside cuts, you could drop down to a #3 blade, and maneuver those curves & points in the star more efficiently, and have a sharper looking project. My next suggestion to you would be to try a 1 1/4'' thick maybe? It will still stand up on its own, and take some off your cut thickness, and speed up your cut time. Especially with your inside cuts. the secret I have found is matching the blade to the wood. If you are using poplar, there isn't a need for an overly aggressive blade because it's not a hard wood to cut.. Use a blade that will give you a nice, clean cut.You could even try an ultra reverse blade. Then figure out the speed that you can handle and cut efficiently at. The breed of the saw makes no matter. Experiment, research, practice, and most of all, enjoy what you're doing. Never say "can't" in your hobby. Keep learning & makin' sawdust! God Bless!