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This is inspired by a Bernard Buffet painting which is my favorite.

Just finished this for a cousin of mine. I want to thank Don in Brooklin for doing this pattern for me so quick. Just don't know how you guys do these patterns so quick. Thanks for all you pattern makers on here. You are all a blessing.

Well I finally finished this portrait for my friend who's husband passed away. I want to thank Ron (Joleet) for doing this pattern from a very poor picture I had. I don't know how he did it but I was able to get something out of it. Hope she likes it. It was a tough one to do with all the hair and the eyes. I just have to frame it and cut it to size. It will be an 8x10.

Thanks Roly, I appreciate the thought. It's an Axminster Trade Series AWFS 18. I bought it second hand. But after 'flapping about' like a headless chicken I decided to sit/read/digest. The instruction book is actually well written when you stop and read it. So now I can change a blade, undo the top of the blade and put it through holes in my pattern and it's working well. Just so different to my little 'Clarke' machine. Just got to learn about blades now and I'm up and running

Ok, so I managed to get to my saw finally. Sat and re-read the instructions - 'slowly' - and I've got everything sorted. Did some cutting on it and WOW it is so, so different to my little PinEnd saw. The blades are so tiny compared to the ones I'm used to, but it is amazing. Had to wear my new 'Magnfying Glasses' which took a little getting used to, but I cut a couple of practice pieces out of thin plywood and I was quite happy. Not sure how these tiny things don't snap at the drop of a hat though, but I know you lot cut quite thick wood with them sometimes, but I guess I will learn what I can cut and what I can't over the winter months. I've printed out lots of 'practice' sheets from the Resources tab, so hope with time to be a good scroller.

Having a lot of fun making boxes lately. The pattern for this one comes from Craftsmanspace The fretwork is plywood, backed with purple card and 3mm MDF. The same card is used to line the box interior. 24 x 21 x 9cm or 10 x 8 x 3.5 inches approx made from an old drawer box. Thanks for looking. Rob

Frank I did it myself. I used the first layer from Steve Goods design and then adding clipart that I found on the Internet. I did in Inkscape. Not much of an Artist but I like to try. Hopefully, I will cut it out today and see what it looks like. Based on what I find out when I cut it I am going to do a Halloween theme. Don

Damn that sounds familiar, I once did that to a new electric stove age 10- unfortunately the parents came home before I could get it back together.

I believe I used a cut down finishing nail of equal size . Those pins once you get them moving come out easily. I used a pair of channel lock pliers and pushed it out easily and used same pliers to put new one back in. Those pliers are adjustable so easy job.

I have to agree with you... The people on this forum are awesome.. and without them.. I wouldn't be the scroller I am now... LOL BTW. Nice work area..

Just when I thought my brain was full, along comes something else. I buy 12" X 24" plywood from Sloan's. http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/ Enlarged a pattern before the wood arrived. The ply is 11 3/4" X 23 15/16. Silly me, I always thought plywood was the only wood you buy that is full size. jerry

Have you looked at the free patterns here. Go to pattern library and look at the "Transportation" category, all kinds of patterns of car of all types.

I have bought a pattern from this site (not hot rod) and they are good. https://www.toymakingplans.com/website/PlanSets/osni-vwbug-fordroadster.html

Just remember, doctors and lawyers all just "practice".

Probably cut at the manufacturer and they us metric system(?). So it would be off a little.

I made this for my niece Becky: The pattern is by Steve Good and I purchased the clockworks from Bear Woods. This is my first clock and I found it VERY EASY to install. The background was cut from 12mm thick Cherry and the scissor-comb overlay was cut from 6mm thick Baltic birch plywood.

Best use a roll pin punch, you can remove it fairly easy but make sure you back up the arm good. Any thing other than pin punch and your taking a chance on burring the end or getting something wedged in the pin itself!! rdv

i have some dust to make and as long as the speed settles down after hunting a bit im good until the replacement get here. if i get this work done before the replacement comes in ill definately tear into it and take a look.

good on ya! yer a better mechanic than a lot of mechanics-many just keep tearing off and bangin stuff creating an even more expensive repair without readin how-to's and you took the time to read instructions. ive been scollin since 06 and im still just practicing. thats pretty much all i do with whatever im doing- even walking. i can mess up that even but glad im just practicing.

Some times what I do is make notes on the master copy and make sure to never cut the original. One of these days I am going to get all my patterns organised or at least stacked in one place. Maybe!!

not really some times no rhyme or reason. I was not not pushing hard or stressing the blade at all. It has been a long time between snaps though. I will have to watch this batch of blades. The smaller blades are more suspect and let me tell you Jewelers blades are the worse because they are more brittle and do not flex.

Great job Rob, I also really like the purple card, gives it a nice look. Jeff

Sheet metal screws work very well if you take the time to grind them down a bit. They are very hard and come in many lengths so one of them, a c-clamp and a nut of the right depth on the other side work great. I've had to do it a few times when the punch wouldn't fit or like you had to move a pin sideways.

Steve Good has a couple of non religious layered patterns. Just search for "Layered" in the pattern catalogue. Rob

With the knowledge that a new one is on the way, I'd be tearing into the old one to see what makes it tick. You might just be able to see. I'll still bet that it's gotten either dusty or corroded or both. But, that's just me. When I was 4 years old, there wasn't a wall outlet cover in the house that had both screws in it. I took everything apart that was within my reach.

Yes, I should have mentioned that I took the arm off... pulling and hammering a pin out with the arm on would be asking for trouble for the arm or bearings as that is a long arm that when pulling or hammering on puts a lot of torque... and as for hammering the pin out... don't need to whale on it just tap on it lightly.

I have had s tragic v death in my family so I am making several of these as a memorial for some folks

Maybe for you. Here is my try at a 4 layered scene. I have not cut yet but if anyone has any comments please let me know. I will cut from BB later today. The pdf has and extra blank layer. UPDATE - CUT MY FIRST LAYER AND THE 4 INCHES LOOKS BIG. NEXT TIME I AM GOING TO REDUCE 10%. layered test 1.pdf

A few months ago our local Windsor Plywood did a custom job out of two inch aromatic cedar. The scraps ended up in the bargain bin for $3.00/lb, too good a deal to pass up. Played chess when I was younger and had always liked the pattern for chess pieces that Sue Mey has. So decided to give it a whirl. Got some cut and showed them to a friend and he ordered a set out of walnut and aspen. Finished his and then did my light players out of some more of my scrap material (really nice grain soft wood). The first pic is of Kings and Queens of each kind of wood. Walnut on the left, then aspen, aromatic red cedar and then the mystery wood. The second pic is of my friend's set with a display case I threw together for his birthday this month. Third pic is of some the cedar pieces to show the colouring I love. Jeff

Am I the only one who has trouble cutting serif type? Yesterday I tried cutting a pattern which has a serif font similar to Times Roman Bold. The most difficult character was the capital letter E. I tried cutting that first as it has small serifs in the middle stoke. I was cutting 1/8" BB with a #3 Pegas mg blade. The letter is about 48 point. Try as I might I could not avoid cutting off the center serifs and turning it into sanserif. I have neuropathy in my hands but I think I have pretty good hand control but I was doing a pretty poor job of it. After destroying the first letter I tossed the piece. I guess I will just cut sanserif from now on. Disgustedly, Les

I bought a new upper blade clamp for the Hawk 226VS Ultra. How do you remove the pin that is holding the upper blade clamp to the upper blade arm? These isn't enough of the pin showing so I could get it with a pair of needle nose pliers. I don't think I would want to use a small punch to punch the old pin out. Any suggestions? I'm sure someone else has had to replace the upper blade clamp at sometime or another and I don't find anything on youtube showing me how to do it. Thanks in advance Jim