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This is inspired by a Bernard Buffet painting which is my favorite.

In a previous post http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/30725-christmas-is-comin/ the question was asked if any non religious layered patterns out there. I designed one myself and posted the pattern I now have it cut and painted. On the suggestion of Frank Pellow I added a 1/4" spacer one ahead of the back and a 1/8 rim on front. Will make some changes now the prototype is done.

Just finished this for a cousin of mine. I want to thank Don in Brooklin for doing this pattern for me so quick. Just don't know how you guys do these patterns so quick. Thanks for all you pattern makers on here. You are all a blessing.

They look nice and being red they should go faster

Good work flying Dutchman ultra reverse blades are good cleaner cuts not so much sanding 3's 5's and 7's for me I do have some 2's but they snap easy with to much pressure. You'll see which works better for you as you cut more stuff. Roly

Just when I thought my brain was full, along comes something else. I buy 12" X 24" plywood from Sloan's. http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/ Enlarged a pattern before the wood arrived. The ply is 11 3/4" X 23 15/16. Silly me, I always thought plywood was the only wood you buy that is full size. jerry

My black motorcycles always beat the red ones!

Just remember, doctors and lawyers all just "practice".

Had a request for a 68 Mustang Coupe ornament the other day.. just after I made the clock.. so I shrunk the pattern slightly Blade wanted to wander quite bad after cutting three airplane clocks and 4 other ornaments.. I knew I should of changed it first.. LOL

Scrollerpete...how thick was the wood you were cutting. It is difficult to understand how a FD UR will do better in thick wood than the Polar. Please notice how short the teeth are on a UR blade.

Miniature bird houses and the wood that I used was scraps pieces of oak, maple, walnut, Cherry even blood wood.

I think that is just the nature of how plywood works.. I buy it in the 60" x 60" sheets and cut it to size as needed... even though I use the measure once cut twice rule.. or is that measure twice cut once... anyway somehow it still comes up short... just like my wallet

What were you cutting that the FD UR blades were better?

You've gotten plenty of good advice on blade choice. Next is set-up and technique. Compound cutting thick stock presents a different set of challenges. It is absolutely imperative that your blade be perfectly perpendicular to your table, side to side and that it cuts perpendicular. Any variance will be transferred and magnified in 2" stock. Also, take special care when applying the pattern to the stock. It must be placed precisely, in order to get the best results. Also, we all have a tendency to apply side pressure when cutting, to help us stay on the line. This is even more tempting when cutting thick stock. For most fretwork, in 3/4" thick stock, or thinner, this doesn't really hurt that much. But in thick stock, problems with bowed cuts, over or under cutting, misalignment, etc will be amplified. The piece will be harder to remove from the stock. The corners won't line up and the piece will look lop-sided. Good luck. Compound cutting can be really fun.

I do have trouble cutting that style.I have since I first tired.It seems no matter my speed,or blade I end up breaking the E,F Or S. So now I avoid it all together.

beautiful box. the card inserts are done very well also. You definitely spent time to make this one extra special. Your care in cutting and finishing your project is very apparent here Dick heppnerguy

Great looking box.

If I understand what you are saying it sounds normal. That's what my saw does.

Web site still works listing PDF's only for 2018. That is as good as kaput.

Pegas modified geometry #5

I would have to say they are kaput at this point. Only one issue issued this year. That to me is closed for business. They are supposed to issue 4 a year. Here we are middle of September and nothing since February. The site has been changed so that the annual subscription link is gone and all they are selling are old issues. That was a pretty expensive issue if you paid for the year that is for sure.

These are just Excalibur saws with the Pegas badge.. however they do come with the Pegas blade chuck upgrade that doesn't come standard on a Excalibur.. think it was Hotshot that posted about the Pegas saw last winter...

If you read the last sentence of his post.. he is saying he wants something that he can have a child with disability to glue it together.. such as a wooden model car etc... Don't think a portrait style pattern is what he's looking for.. Quote from his last sentence.. "I'm trying to make this for a lad with learning disabilities and I want to get him to glue it and Finnish it as a treat."

I like that one Rob. Color is great to.

I agree that is an AAA+++ piece!

I do not think that a ultra reverse is right for this as you are not interested in chip out on the bottom. A better choice is a skip tooth blade like the FD Polar. The short teeth on the UR do not do a good job of clearing the sawdust like the skip tooth blade. When doing thick wood you need to go slow and let the blade cut without forcing it. Also, keep a sharp blade in your saw. Lastly, with thick cuts the grain lines can push your blade one way or the other. I believe the absolutely best blade is the PS Woods Super Sharps. But they are much more expensive. Be certain to check that your blade is perpendicular to the table. Good Luck

The FD ur #5 should work fine...if you have any Pegas MG #5 they should also work fine !.. I have used both with good results !

I've got to ask.. are you looking for puzzle patterns or something like a model car type pattern? You mentioned so the lad could glue it together so I don't think we have anything here in the pattern library on this site.. But if puzzle patterns you could buy some patterns from Scott at www.woodcraftbyscott.com Hope I got that right.. believe he has several car / truck and maybe tractor patterns.. Below is a photo of a couple of puzzles I did from him..

As you all know I've bought a new to me saw. An Axminster. However, I've read and re-read the instruction book and still cannot even change a blade. Now there was a blade in it when I got it and I don't know how long it had been stood doing nothing, but my guess is at least a year. Are there places that do 'over hauls' on scrollsaws or does anyone know of a nice UK forum that I could join to enable me to get in touch with some kind soul that may be able to come over and help me ? I know this is a long shot but thought I'd ask anyway. Not only am I totally new to scrolling I'm a useless mechanic.

Thanks Roly, I appreciate the thought. It's an Axminster Trade Series AWFS 18. I bought it second hand. But after 'flapping about' like a headless chicken I decided to sit/read/digest. The instruction book is actually well written when you stop and read it. So now I can change a blade, undo the top of the blade and put it through holes in my pattern and it's working well. Just so different to my little 'Clarke' machine. Just got to learn about blades now and I'm up and running

good on ya! yer a better mechanic than a lot of mechanics-many just keep tearing off and bangin stuff creating an even more expensive repair without readin how-to's and you took the time to read instructions. ive been scollin since 06 and im still just practicing. thats pretty much all i do with whatever im doing- even walking. i can mess up that even but glad im just practicing.

I gave up on the jewellers/metal cutting blades because of that. Obviously I wasn't doing something right.

I am with you Jerry started in 2010 and have never had one to break. Maybe not pushing the blade as hard as the people who break theres.

Prayers for all those in the path. We were in Charleston a couple of years back in our motorhome. We were marooned for a week because of the flooding. 24" of rain in 36 hours. Never quit. It sounded like there were a hundred snare drummers on our roof. We love the rain but not like that.

Oh heavens, I hope he doesn't read this !!!! He thinks I'm done asking now

Prayers said for all in Florence's path and that she will die down from a Category 4 and better yet, turn back out to sea!

Exactly, I run into that problem all the time and that is why black is common

Well done, truly a work of art. jim

Oh I have had it happen to me also.Darn blasted aggravating,ya just want ta throw em as far as ya can.The broken blades that is.

So.. I ended up getting the pyrography set from the estate I had talked about the other day... $35 was worth it to me to try.. the cheap soldering iron type ones run about that much.. and this is a pro set.. Doing some research on what exactly I got turns out the company closed up.. not sure when.. But at any rate I found in the bottom of the tools plastic case.. the original receipt from 1989.. so it's older than I though.. It's a Detail Master lll I didn't take a photo of it yet but while researching came across the same thing on ebay so i'll show that one.. I got at least 6-8 pens with it.. had to go play around and found that the thing has heat at the tip about as soon as it comes on.. unlike my old soldering iron style.. Anyway.. happy camper with it... much easier to control etc.. I also found that there are adapter cables to use other brand pens with.. so even though they are no longer in business.. I can still get new pens etc.. Always wanted to try the professional burning tools but too expensive to buy just to try them.. until now .. Oh.. I did make a $50 offer on the Hegner they have.. probably won't know for a few days on that one..don't care either way on that.. since it's such a small one and not really what I'd want in a saw anyway.. if it doesn't sell in the sale they did say I'd end up with it anyway.. same with all the wood they have. we'll see. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DETAIL-MASTER-III-MODEL-8124-C-TESTED-WORKS/292321905477?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

A Big Congrats on your find.Often wanted to try woodburning.

Colwood sells one that looks almost the same. And is called the detail master.

I understand there can be material failures but I found it so odd. I use to get all blades from Mike and never had a problem and that was thousands of blades over the years. This last batch just does not seem the same. Now I bought a few gross so will see how they all play out but I find myself changing blades way more often and when that one broke I was doing nothing special and that is why it really took me by surprise. I can see if I were stressing it and making super tight turns but no. As I said we all been there and we move on. I know I have been sawing a long time when I went through the many gross of blades I got from Mike finally. Miss that man. He was one of the good guys.

I think bad batches in blades are common and not manufacturer specific, here in the UK a while ago a lot folks were complaining about FD blades breaking.

Kevin, I've got a setup similar to Sycamore67's. I found a used Fein on C/L for a great price and I can tell you, it's very quiet. As Paul said though, it's the hissing/whistling/sucking noise right at the saw that is loud. I'm thinking of redoing mine in larger pvc with a wide mouth adaptor of some sort to see if I can make it quieter. Now that I have the EX, I am going to make something for it too. I left the long hose on the vac and run it to my saw across my small shop and when I'm using the EX it will probably be just outside the shop door and I can run the hose to it too. Anyway, the answer to your original question is, yes the high end vacs are quiet. Worth every penny in the long run. It just hurts at the time of purchase. Like anything worthwhile. When I was selling tools, my motto was "buy the best and cry only once". Makes sense.

Personally, I don't recall ever reading about this mag before now, it may just be a memory thing though. The mag can't be all that popular though, if it was it would have been mentioned here a few times at least. And with reading Merlin's post, how comfortable would anyone be interested in taking the risk? I did take a look at the back issues pics on the site, the mag has some interesting patterns in it. But in amongst the patterns I saw, there is a couple that I've seen elsewhere. I would like to hear from anyone who has subscribed to this mag, I wonder what they think of the Mag, the patterns, and service they get? Len

A bit pricey, no?

I understand everyone's frustrations. I would say that I would like to encourage any magazine, show or exhibition that supports our scroll sawing.

I finally found the buy a back issue in print on the back issues page. The attached jpg file is what I see when I visit the site. All it says is is click here to buy a 2017 pdf subscription, this being Dec 2017 I am not sure why I would want to do that I don't even see a subscribe now button, menu or option. Much less whether that subscription is in print or pdf. Just going by what I see. I am using firefox quantum if that makes a difference

Well, after all..........nevermind.