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In a previous post http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/30725-christmas-is-comin/ the question was asked if any non religious layered patterns out there. I designed one myself and posted the pattern I now have it cut and painted. On the suggestion of Frank Pellow I added a 1/4" spacer one ahead of the back and a 1/8 rim on front. Will make some changes now the prototype is done.

Had a request for a 68 Mustang Coupe ornament the other day.. just after I made the clock.. so I shrunk the pattern slightly Blade wanted to wander quite bad after cutting three airplane clocks and 4 other ornaments.. I knew I should of changed it first.. LOL

I'd be keeping an eye on the area over the next several hours of use.. might wear out the case where that bolt is.. I know several years ago someone posted on one of the message boards about this.. then posted again about a year or so later with a broken case.. a block of wood or something is much cheaper than a new case or saw.. If you've seen the Jim Dandy easy lift attachment and have some mechanical skills.. you could build one yourself for probably $5-10.. while $25 ish isn't bad for just a bolt on one and be done with it for several years.. I've had one on my saw for about 10 years now and wouldn't be without one on a DeWalt..

My black motorcycles always beat the red ones!

My first Christmas project - 5 layers, painted MDF 3mm pattern is available at https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

This is inspired by a Bernard Buffet painting which is my favorite.

One night some time ago, around a camp fire, when our thirst for knowledge was running out (politically correct way of saying we were running out of beer and too drunk to go get more), we determined that Newton's law was the reason black bikes are faster. Newton said, for every action there is a reaction. We know that light, photons, travel from the sun to the earth, and we know that color as we perceive it is the reflection of photons. ergo - that reflection of protons was slowing down bikes that were not black, since black is the absence of light reflections.

Terry, you see all those holes around the blade, those are dust collection holes and there is a plastic collector under the table for a vacuum attachment. When doing fret work, small frets will drop in a hole and either stop the piece from moving or sometimes clog up the plastic collection piece, most of us have removed the dust collector plastic piece. Keep it in mind if that happens. I put an overlay on my table to cover those holes and only have the blade hole to deal with. I agree with others though, you will love the EX, I wouldn't change mine out for another brand

You are correct I missed that. Alex Fox has/had this jeep as a free pattern. I did it with my Grandson. I could not find any of his free patterns at his Etsy site but you could message him and ask him if it is still available. It was an easy cut and you watch his video to put it together.

Just completed this "Fall" sign....made from rough cut 1x6's I created, painted a aged look.....letters are 1/4" ply....leaves are from a fall decoration bought at Hobby Lobby.....1" tacks were used for the "Bolt" look.....4ft tall...I'm picturing a fall mum & pumpkin at the base to complete it fully....comments as always...ty

Dose anyone have a hotrod scroll saw pattern or a car that's good for practicing. Or could you recommend a interesting pattern book for me please . I asked because I've brought a few books and I don't like the images and they aren't very good. I just want shapes that I can follow and cut different types of wood for the different sections. I'm trying to make this for a lad with learning disabilities and I want to get him to glue it and Finnish it as a treat. Help thank you

Well I finally finished this portrait for my friend who's husband passed away. I want to thank Ron (Joleet) for doing this pattern from a very poor picture I had. I don't know how he did it but I was able to get something out of it. Hope she likes it. It was a tough one to do with all the hair and the eyes. I just have to frame it and cut it to size. It will be an 8x10.

Hi , I got my first scroll saw a couple of weeks back and thought its about time to stop practicing doing wiggly lines and try to make something I have Kathy Wise's book so tried to follow along with her beginners project and she said if its your first time use a soft wood to make it easier to do, so I bought a bit of Red Cedar, I hadnt seen Cedar before , I guess we dont grow it in the UK, but it cut and sanded easy and it smells great when its cut I know I have a lot to learn and you will see that in my picture but all in all I was quite pleased with my first atempt. Its had just one coat of varnish which I will rub down when its dry and give a couple more coats but here it is so far Remember its my first try so be gentle with me Don

Another reason to buy full 5'x5' sheets of Baltic Birch and break them down yourself as you need it. It may take some work to find it locally but it really is out there.

Seems a logical answer Don W

I've heard that in some countries you can buy: 1. A board stretcher. 2. A wood welder. At the moment, I don't remember where. jerry

Really Really Really nice Roly……...

Very nice work there Rob.....

Thanks Jim. You said it much better than I could.

Glad to see you got this worked out. You are going to love this saw. As for this finish on the table. Mine was worn off in no time.

I built one myself for about $3 using plywood and a nylon bolt. lasted years and took auto 30 minutes to make. IKE

+1

From what I am seeing in your picture, your blade is not centered in the clamps. Did you adjust the set screws in the clamps the way Kevin suggested?

I think you are all just being kind because I'm a beginner but your replies are very encouraging so thank you all

Beautiful. Fabulous cutting and finishing Rob, well done. Marg

Thanks Kevin for your quick response. I was able to center the blade. I loosened the four bolts on the table and was able to align the blade with the hole in the table. I was surprised just how much you can move the table. Everything is in line now. Thanks for the help. I do appreciate it. Terry

i agree with kimmcraft,i have the same set up!

For the blade alignment.. I'd start with making sure the blade is centered in the blade clamps.. ie the set screw opposite of the thumb screw may need adjusting to get the blade in the center of the clamp.. If it is centered.. maybe loosen the bolts that hold the table to the saw.. and see if you can get it centered and then tighten them back down.. As for the finish on the table... yeah it doesn't last long anyway.. I think mine was wearing off after only about 5-10 hours of use.. Hoping you can get this blade centered to the table though.. Also like to note that.. I doubt this is anything to do with being made in a different country now... I have the older saw that was made before they moved production.. and it was all kinds of messed up straight out of the box.. bolts loose and table out of wack just like yours... I think those that bought there saws from Seyco.. probably never seen this sort of stuff because Ray always tuned the saw prior to sending them out.. My guess is.. they just slap them together on the assembly lines..

Steve Good has this one at Scrollsaw Workshop search for "Sprint Car" in the pattern catalogue. Rob

The blade seems a bit big for that, i use a 2/0 on 1/8" bb. Gives me great control, obviously I go very slow when doing it.

Large serif typefaces like 72 point and larger are not a problem for me. It is the smaller sizes, 48 point and smaller that give me a problem. Takes a hell of a lot better scroller than me to cut them.

I think that is just the nature of how plywood works.. I buy it in the 60" x 60" sheets and cut it to size as needed... even though I use the measure once cut twice rule.. or is that measure twice cut once... anyway somehow it still comes up short... just like my wallet

The following is from Solan's web site description of their plywood: All sizes widths & lengths shown are (+/- 1/8") to allow for the blade width while cutting As this is an import plywood it is manufactured & sold using the metric system. The US measuring system of inches shown in the thickness below is very close but not Exact, but within a few thousands of an inch. Larry

They look nice and being red they should go faster

Jerry, I can understand being a bit P'd off as it is sold at a certain size and is under (Highly illegal in Aust.) They probably cut a 2400 (8') x 1200 (4') sheet and so have a allow for waste eg saw kerf.

We live and learn,Oh the mistakes I have made.

If you read the last sentence of his post.. he is saying he wants something that he can have a child with disability to glue it together.. such as a wooden model car etc... Don't think a portrait style pattern is what he's looking for.. Quote from his last sentence.. "I'm trying to make this for a lad with learning disabilities and I want to get him to glue it and Finnish it as a treat."

Try the 67 Camaro on Steve Goods sight

I've got to ask.. are you looking for puzzle patterns or something like a model car type pattern? You mentioned so the lad could glue it together so I don't think we have anything here in the pattern library on this site.. But if puzzle patterns you could buy some patterns from Scott at www.woodcraftbyscott.com Hope I got that right.. believe he has several car / truck and maybe tractor patterns.. Below is a photo of a couple of puzzles I did from him..

Have you looked at the free patterns here. Go to pattern library and look at the "Transportation" category, all kinds of patterns of car of all types.

Steve Good has a 4x4 truck pattern that is really quite simple to make and really cool once done.. And the good thing is.. the pattern is free.. Check out http://www.stevedgood.com/catalog/index.php Not sure where the link will take you but do a search for truck.. there is a couple toy type patterns there that might suit your needs..

I have bought a pattern from this site (not hot rod) and they are good. https://www.toymakingplans.com/website/PlanSets/osni-vwbug-fordroadster.html

Go to google and search images for coloring pages. All sorts of stuff from simple to complex.

What would the hobby be without the pattern maker's.

I used acrylic satin house paint on all of my toys. I'd then top coat it with lacquor to give it a nice shine and a little more protection. I used to get the sample pot's but as production increased I bought 4litre cans and decanted them into 500ml containers. Much cheaper purchasing that way.

Well the wait is over for me my Excalibur EX-21 from Home Depot arrived today. All is not/was not smooth. The bag containing the 24 bolts, 32 washers and 28 nuts for the stand was broken open and the hardware was all over the box, well most of it. Some must was have fell out of the box so I was short washers, and nuts. Ok...back to Home Depot for replacement item. Of yea....its about 22 miles each way to Home Depot. Ok back home the stand is together and tight. Problem #2. I carefully take the saw out of the box following the directions that say to grab by the motor and front of the table. and place it on the stand. Hmmm why is the blade not centered with the hole in the table?? It was way over to the right ( see posted picture ). Is there a way to adjust and center the blade with the hole in the table? I would think it is suppose to be centered? I'm not happy with the way it looks, especially with a saw costing close to $900.00. I expect more but if its just misaligned from shipping and be corrected I'm ok with that. I don't see anything in the manual to correct this. Problem #3. The finish is off on the left side of the table which might have happened from rubbing during transit. Not a big deal I guess and in time it will probably come off anyway as I use the saw. I do like how quiet the saw is compared to my Shop Fox saw but the blade to the table alignment has me bugged. Thanks for any guidance. Terry

Tightened the pivot bolt slightly and arm goes up and down with very little resistance

Here is a picture of the table finish. Terry