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When it rains it pours!

Was asked to make for a wedding. Used padauk with BB plywood backer. Pattern was made by Bobscroll. With may thanks to him! It is 8” x24” cut on a EX21.

Thanks once again @scrollriffic (Bobby), for the patterns. Another 2 footy plaques, painted in their colors. The backs ar cut from pine and the letters from 2.5mm ply. Marg

Trying a different design for a comb utilizing short pieces of torrified maple. I like it and if any one messes with me I could whip it out and do some damage haha... kidding really but I am going to make another but change it to longer tines for a pick perhaps for Afros

4"x12"x1/2" Red Oak

I don't know if any remember how I had some issues with my jointer motor variable speed issue back in June.. and the electric motor shop said it's time for a new one as the parts are obsolete.. This motor service place use to save me a ton of money.. but the good guy doesn't seem to work there anymore.. They said the variable speed chip in the circuit board was bad and the circuit board is no longer available.. Well I did some research and found a circuit board but wasn't worth nearly $200to me since this same jointer new is only $250 ish.. Anyway I called the motor shop about bypassing the VS.. he said it was not able to do that on this set-up.. well turns out it is.. after lurking around the web and finding others having the same issue.. some guy posted something about if you have a motor with brushes then you can bypass it.. Anyway after getting this thing apart I see it has a normal pot switch in it.. however I don't care for the VS anyway and always left it on fast speed.. I just wired it to bypass that and it's working great.. Unfortunately but I used to brag and send that motor shop a lot of business over the years.. Doubt I'll go back there for anything much any more since the one guy isn't there anymore.. Good day today since I found a fix for my miter saw ( another post earlier today ) and now I got this jointer going.. Just didn't get much scroll sawing done.. only cut 10 ornaments today.. and my goal was to cut about 60, LOL.. Guess the day isn't completely over yet, LOL

This pop up in my YouTube feeds it is a couple of years old so chances are you might have already seen it. https://youtu.be/bhvvMcn7eYw

I do a lot of compound cutting and at one time I made a clamp. Lost it somewhere so now I use 2 small clamps around 2 pieces of wood. I did glue sandpaper to 2 sides to hold a little better. Like this better than the clamp as I can change from side to side real quick.

Ray, I use the Freud blades mostly, but Dewalt gets pretty good ratings also, I really love my Freud glue line rip blade. Never have seen the reason to spend as much as the Forrest blades cost, But they have their following of loyal users.

I just read this posts Kevin so I will add a few comments. As Far as the switch goes do yourself favor and buy the correct switch and forget about trying to fix it. Not worth the effort and could become a hazard down the road. If looking to buy new saw you have questions to ask yourself as with all tools. How much room do you have?? How large of work needs to be cut on it (10" vs 12") Do I need a slider or just compound. Always buy a compound cutter instead of a standard chop saw. Any time you start adding moving parts accuracy decreases but will still get decent cuts. The Dewalt line is about the best in that price range with Bosch a close second. Again if you go with a slider then you need more room. The Bosch takes less room and does what a slider will do. I have not used a miter saw in so long it collects dust in the corner of the shop. My go to tool is always the tablesaw. You mentioned sharing blades with your tablesaw. That is a no-no!!! A miter saw requires different blades than a table saw. Do people interchange yes they do but run the risk of injury. A miter saw uses a negative rake blade or a blade with no more than a 3 degree rake on it as opposed to a table saw blade which uses a positive rake. The reason is with a miter saw you are applying the blade to the wood as in a tablesaw you apply the wood to the blade. The wood will have a tendency to climb or jump in a miter saw if using a positive rake blade. Something like when you run a router the wrong direction of the grain when routing. The router will want to pull from your hands. Highly recommend buying a good multi-purpose blade for the mitersaw The teeth count depends on material cutting and smoothness of cut. Miter saws tend to have runout in the arbors but when are new usually does not show up. People lift the saws with the handle and do not lock them down and things get wacky. Thin kerf blades help to not tax the motor so much because it removes less material when cutting. I use thin kerf blades in my tablesaw all the time. As I said the decision of 10" vs 12" is a matter of material size being cut. If you go with a slider then you make up for the size that way or unless you want max depth then 12" slider is the way to go. Handles. Most people do not consider this when buying but comfort is something not to take lightly. "D" handle as opposed to "T" handle. I prefer "T" handle, because I feel more natural pulling down on the handle. Just a matter of feel. But use it for a long time all day long and it does matter. The best miter saw on the market in my opinion is the Festool Kapex saw. It is dead on accurate, quiet, and a precision tool. Over $1200 so not cheap. Many things to consider when buying any tool. But do not skip just because one is cheaper. Buy once and be happy. By the way those lasers are good for close but not dead on so do not use them for real accurate cuts.

something else you could do,kev: holidays are comin. subtle hints now and then to family. subliminal messages.

Been wanting to try my hand at 3D cutting. This being a "bachelor Saturday" while the wife and kiddo are out of town...why not? Power's back on after last night's storms, temps are in the 70's, Mountain Dew is at hand....'tis a good day by any reckoning! Wasn't as difficult to cut as I thought it would be. My fancy drying racks are the little plastic pieces that come on top of a stick of deodorant. I started saving them a while back, and they work well for the purpose.

I gave my son my ridgid 10" miter saw because I never use it. I have a radial arm saw that is my saw for cutting boards to length. I use my table saw for everything else.

It is always a great day when you can fix things yourself. Sometimes the so-called professional doesn't have a clue on the easy fixes.

This would 'B' my idea. Russell

This is a menu /phone/tablet stand from Steve Good's site made from pine stained in rose wood. I'll see how it sells next month. Roly

I searched yesterday for a good couple of hours looking to find a source for the switch.. Couldn't find any info.. Yesterday when I took it apart.. I seen some numbers on the switch.. but I cleaned up the contacts as best I could and put it back together.. and it worked for about two more cuts and then wouldn't shut off, LOL.... SO... the contacts shorted and melted together.. I just left it alone for the rest of the day.. Just a few minutes ago.. got to thinking about those numbers on the switch.. as we all know... Hitachi didn't make the switch and probably didn't make any custom switch that just had to be bought through them... where there is a will there is a way.. I just took it apart and punch in the numbers on the switch on google... wahla.. just ordered a new switch for $20 shipped.. After reading all your replies.. I think I'll stick to my guns and save a little more and buy the nice yellow DeWalt one that I wanted to begin with.. I just didn't want to but my bank savings down so low right now.. maybe after the holidays which will give me some craiglist research time etc.. I use the darn thing so much i'd be lost without it.. but if needed I suppose the table saw or bandsaw would work in it's place for a short time but.. I normally keep my table saw set up just to chop BB ply to size.. and would be a pain to keep swapping blades around etc.. Thanks for all the replies.. and look forward to hearing more since I'm probably still going to buy a new one that'll cut more like a 8" board in half without flipping the board around etc.. which I think a many of the 12" ones without the sliding feature will do.

I'm cheap fragile so I bought this from Harbor Freight Tools because it is slightly cheaper than Dremel, slightly less bulky, and comes with the flexible shaft. I don't use it as much as I thought I would but, have used it enough that I think it has paid for itself for the jobs that I have completed with it. https://www.harborfreight.com/96-volt-cordless-variable-speed-rotary-tool-kit-63389.html God Bless! Spirithorse

Yea. I have seen more politics than I want.

Cut this a long time ago, never finished it, good test for the scrolling skills, cut from oak repurposed kitchen cabinet door

I've been very happy with my Freud blades. (I also own a Woodworker II) I'm assuming you are thinking of a combination blade. Given that, I'd certainly go for their thin kerf. I think the number is LU83R010 (but check that). There's nothing like a good blade to help a table saw come to life.

I have been using the 2x4 inch mailer labels for years for small projects. They don't stick real well to some woods though. I can print a whole sheet or one at a time.

Thank you for the design suggestions. I think I may try Russell's idea, it looks like it may work well.

Who have you tried for a replacement switch? I have a 10" Milwaukee that I got 2nd hand. It was so long ago CL wasn't invented yet. I've never regretted going used, saved a bundle. But if your shopping new I'd check all the on-line reviews. I pay special attention to Fine Woodworking, Wood Magazine and Popular Mechanics. There are certainly advantages to a slider but unless you get one of those that a specially articulated, don't forget all the extra room you'll need. Good luck.

Russell love the design. Great idea.

This DeWalt is the last saw I greased up every bearing, now it actually has a hum to it,Or a purr! Thanks Bobscroll!

You're making someone special!

This is a piece I made for my wife's birthday. I made the pattern, using some clip art for the figures. Needless to say, she likes to read and pet cats. The backer is 1/2" birch plywood with iron on edge banding and a deep red mahogany dye, and the overlay is 3 mm baltic birch. Finished with a couple of coats of spray lacquer. As you can see, the decoration at the bottom wasn't cut well at all. May have to make another one at a later date.

You wowed me again!

On my previous saw, DeWalt and my current EX-21, I simply adjusted the back legs of the stand to a position that felt comfortable. There were multiple holes in the leg extensions that gave the user a few options. I have no idea what angle it measures.

That is a great decoration! Nice deck also....

very nice job

Harbor freight and a few others also have variable speed bench grinders with flexible shaft hook ups. I toyed with the idea of getting the little 3 inch grinder, mostly for the flexible shaft set up and variable speed. I asked my dentist about purchasing an old dental drill set up when they replace them. He just laughed and said, they bring far too much for a hobbyist to want. I thought that little pen type hand set with the offset angle head would be great. This might work though: https://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Dental-Lab-MARATHON-35k-Rpm-Handpiece-Electric-Micro-motor-10-Drills-Burs-N3/201527992673?epid=25011006690&hash=item2eec012161:g:LqUAAOSwQFNbA9eN

My 1st Dremel was cordless.Then I bought a corded.It fit my hand perfect,I've had it for yrs.I do agree the newer models are big and chuncky.I also have a Craftsman.Love both of them.

I have mine tilted forward - by how much? I have no idea LOL - what ever the amount is for the height of 2x4 laying down LOL

Never even heard of that word. I have no problem copying and pasting anything I show on any forum. If I ask a question I will ask on different forums. Who in the world is going to say something. Go for it and have fun. No such thing as cross-posting.

I'm with lawson, not everyone is on every site

Looks like Alexander designed or retrofitted a front tension/clamping device for older rear tension scroll saws.

I need to go some place were political chatter is out thanks.

Can I tastefully make fun of both candidates equally?

To quote from my brilliant wife's dissertation (Loosely quoted): "Nothing generates more heat and smoke and less light than a political or religious discussion".

I'm in, thanks for the reminder and all your hard work!!!

I agree 100% but, please exercise your right to vote.

Please accept my apologies for my part in it. It is a good rule and I agree 100%.

Another reason to love the Village !.....Thanks Travis .

I have to chime in with my whole hearted agreement. This place is too valuable to upset one another over political views or religious arguments Dick heppnerguy

Thank you Travis.

Thanks for the reminder Travis!

Hi Travis: Well said and noted Thanks for the reminder Fab4