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Well I have been able to get down to my shop more lately,and I cut out one guy I have been wanting to cut for awhile.Angel Eyes,One of my all time favorite Bad Good Guys.And Fess Parker.I thought about putting Bone and Crockett both on this plaque.I wish I had put Crockett on it,since I live in Tenn,and Crockett country.Oh well next time.

I've always had a thing for these old Grumman aircraft. The F3F was the last Bi-Plane fighter the Navy used for carrier service. I spent many hours cleaning up pixels to make this ready for cutting. Lots of thin lines (ref. Scoreing thread) and cutting was a little challenge. I cut a matching 1/4" backing and paint it black acrylic. I was going to contact spray the "back" of the cutting but the phone rang and I picked it up (scam Call!) I got back to my project and starting spraying and quickly realized I WAS SPRAYING THE FRONT!!!. I could have gotton away with it but for the TEXT.... I have a 5 gallon can of "OFF". Now I have a 4 gallon can of "OFF" Found a shallow baking pan and proceeded to use up a bunch of papertowels to clean it up. I did a whole lot of scraping in the cuttings to clean out the glue and sanding to get it back to where I should have been 2 hours earlier.... Finally got it done. Watch those distractions...

This was designed by Kory Kiker. Detailed notes and photos about this project can be found in the thread:

When it rains it pours!

4"x12"x1/2" Red Oak

Trying a different design for a comb utilizing short pieces of torrified maple. I like it and if any one messes with me I could whip it out and do some damage haha... kidding really but I am going to make another but change it to longer tines for a pick perhaps for Afros

Oh Kevin I see you are stepping up to some manly tools. Well I will add my 2 cents worth here. The difference between belt drive and direct drive is simple. The motor!! In a direct drive motor it is a universal motor such as all hand tools have and they have brushes. A belt drive uses an induction motor, no brushes. universal motors are noisy and require maintenance (bearings and brushes) Much lower HP rating (never compare HP rating of universal motor with induction motor, not comparable) Tablesaws with those motors are bench top saws. They are noisy and whinny. They can not handle cuts like a induction motor because of less hp. They get hot when worked hard. The way the blade is attached to the arbor of the motor makes less cutting height and use of a blade. The blade can not protrude through the table as high. Being they are tabletop models, less weight and this means more vibration tranfered through blade from motor. Could cause chatter marks on cuts. Induction motor tablesaws. Higher quality of saw. Belts take out vibration Much quieter. Motors do not run as hot. More working HP. More blade usage because you can raise it higher. Motors last a life time. Only come full size because the way the motor needs to hang. Much more weight with cast iron tables and better inners. Can get these saws in a full Cabinet saw, Contractors saw, or Hybrid saws which is basically a combination of a contractors saw and cabinet saw (smaller footprint than cabinet saw but combines features of both plus cost less) I own a Delta 10" contractors saw and it is and always be my work horse and tool that gets used the most in my shop. Every single project made in my shop has touched the tablesaw in some way. I own a Craftsman table top on a stand saw that I leave out in my shed and use for quick projects that do not require precision. I was forced to buy it because of the price. It was on closeout when sears was closing stores in my area. Built my shed with it but do not use much. Have any specific questions be glad to add my thoughts. I tried to give a general overview as to main differences.

I just found this out on the net. It comes from someone within the Freud company. An explanation of there different levels of blades. Very good to know. Here is a responce provided by a Freud tech guy a number of years ago.QUOTEAll Freud blades come from the same machines in the same manufacturing plant. We make our own micrograin carbide in numerous formulations that represent various degrees of hardness. The carbide is selected depending on the intended application (the hardest is used for laminates the softest for ripping) as are the tooth angles and tooth quantity. The steel for the blade plates is all the same grade. The brazing is all the same. The key differences between the 3 main lines of Freud blades are: The LU/LM Industrial blades have the thickest tips for the most resharpenings and are generally full kerf. We also offer the most selection of specialty blades in this line. These have the most appeal to professionals who need to get a lot of sharpenings out of a blade and to artisans who need specialty blades for their projects. The TK and Diablo lines are very similar. Both are thin kerf blades and the tip thickness is the same. The key difference is in the way we market these blades. The Diablo line has blades intended for purposes like framing, siding, decking and general home improvement and is packaged and promoted in ways that appeal to contractors and DIYers. The TK line has blades for similar purposes (as well as laminate blades) but is sold with different or no coating and different packaging and POP material to appeal more to woodworkers.Do professional woodworkers shop for blades at Home Depot? Probably some do and they can get excellent performance from a Diablo blade for a lot of their uses but with a shorter overall life (and lower cost) due to the tip thickness. Same with the TK blades at Lowe's.Why not compare a TK or Diablo blade to Forrest? Consider this analogy: Toyota cars and Lexus cars share a lot of the same components and are made by the same company. Would you compare a Camry with a BMW?We make a fourth line of blades (F400 Premier series) that is very similar to the WWII and is priced similarly. The difference between ours and Forrest's is that ours is made by computer controlled, super modern equipment and theirs is made by hand. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages but I leave the final verdict to the consumer.Charles M Freud, Inc.

Frank Pellow pattern, when he posted it I knew I was going to cut it, finally got to it, i have fond memories of paddling my kayak in the early morning and seeing this scene live, too bad this scene does not come with the sound of the loon call. Cut from repurposed ash flooring framed with cedar great pattern frank!!!! Thanks!

My Delta Uni-Saw had a HUGE belt drive motor. It did operate on 110V. The base was cast iron and had a door at the base of the cabinet to scoop out the sawdust. A Delta 1946 model. Parts are still available for it. As wonderful as that saw was I could not justify the space it took since I did very little with it. I guess I bought it from an old retired friend who wanted it to go to a good home. Two wheels had been placed on the back of the saw but still took two men and a small boy to move it around. To use it I would tug it out to the driveway. Pushing it back into the garage was another matter. I sold it two years ago and bought Lowe's little Kobalt saw with the collapsible base and wheels. Since scrolling I roll out that little bugger sometimes twice a day. Sometimes for just one little cut. It will not make fine boxes or make delicate cuts but it is convenient. Had I the room I would wish for my Delta again. I envy those with large shops.

I don't know anything about the new direct drive saws, but I used to have an old Craftsman DD saw. It was way underpowered. Like others have said, direct drive is used on portable saws, in order to minimize their foot print and weight. If you are buying a new table saw and don't need the portability, definitely go with the belt driven saw.

Mine vote also to Freud. The is not a good and cheap blade. In Estonia we say - If you want cheap and good you must buy two things (read - blade). Cheap and good.

Thanks Travis for making this "a shelter from the storm" of today's politics.

A few years ago for Christmas I received from my brother - in -law this jig to sharpen the planer / jointer knives.. I never used the thing and actually forgot I had it.. while going through my tool cabinet today I ran across it and though.. hey my knives are getting dull.. actually planned to place a order before the months end for some new knives.. So, I gave this little jig a whirl and I have to say.. it cuts quite well again.. not quite as good as a new set probably but certainly better than they was.. Maybe could be as good as new if i spent more time on them with different grits of paper.. but anyway.. Just thought I'd share my experience with this tool.. and wondered if anyone else has this or something similar.. I know there are tons of videos on youtube about making a jig with your table saw.. I was researching that a couple of years ago when my brother inlaw was here... guessing that's what gave him the gift idea, LOL https://www.rockler.com/deulen-planer-jointer-sharpening-jigs-sharpening-jigs?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQjwuafdBRDmARIsAPpBmVXdE3HAHxBO4lqlSHgYOubgiwusTy9OgThqTfkOS-oxh8cJmt5bYRYaApXMEALw_wcB

I've been very happy with my Freud blades. (I also own a Woodworker II) I'm assuming you are thinking of a combination blade. Given that, I'd certainly go for their thin kerf. I think the number is LU83R010 (but check that). There's nothing like a good blade to help a table saw come to life.

Thanks once again @scrollriffic (Bobby), for the patterns. Another 2 footy plaques, painted in their colors. The backs ar cut from pine and the letters from 2.5mm ply. Marg

Was asked to make for a wedding. Used padauk with BB plywood backer. Pattern was made by Bobscroll. With may thanks to him! It is 8” x24” cut on a EX21.

Hi everyone. Have a question on my Ex Cal 21 scroll saw. My upper lock down knob finally stripped on me and I can't tighten down the upper blade anymore. I was thinking about replacing the upper and lower chuck with the new Pegas chuck. Anyone used those already, or should I just replace them both with the same one's that are on there. Thanks. Have to pull out my DW788 now and finish my jobs. Thanks. Ralph.

I had the Pegas clamps for over 2 months now and they are far better than the original from Excalibur, no complaints at all.

I am in my second week with the Pegas clamps and they seems to work just fine. I need to make some minor adjustments on them to fit my routine, but they work great and I seem to be able to pull the blade a half notch tighter on my DeWalt. Now, the old holders had lots (and lots) of blades changes on them, but the Pegas just seems to hold the blade better.

I bought the Pegas clamp a month or so back... I don't know how a un-defective standard Excalibur clamps works.. everyone seem to think my original clamp was defective... If it wasn't defective I wouldn't own a Ex without the Pegas clamp on it.. That's how much improvement it gave my saw.. but like i said...many think my upper clamp was defective from the get go.. For me...it was night and day difference... I rarely would even use my Excalibur... now I don't mind using it but still do prefer my Hawk..

Very nicely done Frank. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

Thanks Ray, I think it's a good deal to. Hoping it's not to hard to install.

You did a real nice job on them great Actors! Thank you for letting us see, Bob

i thought i read something about direct drives not having the depth capacity of belt? the blade wont raise up as high on direct drive?and something about blade tilt- something like direct drives dont tilt as far as belt drive?

I have a 10" cast Iron Sears Table Saw. I had used it on and off for various furniture and wood working projects for over 20 years. It was never that accurate until I decided to tighten it up. Once I started making small boxes and scroll saw projects, all my cuts needed to be spot on. I adjusted the blade tracking and zeroed the angle stops. I still have the manual! and all adjustments are detailed. I always use a digital angle meter for miter cuts since the front facing indicator is a "sort of" thing. This saw is a belt drive and I have not had issues with it bogging down. After 20+ years it was time to replace the belt because it had stretched to the end stop and occasionally the belt pulley will track out and rub on the side of the case. I loosen the hex screw and push it back in place. I have made a few jigs and added some storage underneath the one side to keep my assorted tools specific to the saw. I have a dust catcher base I attach it to my shopvac. I do need to remove the MDF blocking plate when doing angle cuts since the motor rotates. I live and breath my miter sled and flat sled. It makes quick work of molding and small pieces. Both plans from Woodsmith. I have an I-Box tool that allows me to knock box joint boxes quickly. The 1/4" PW board on top is a great AUX work surface. Only thing I still need is to do is make an end feed attachment. The unit is on a roller stand and I can quickly rotate it when I need to cut large panels. Even though its old like me, it still works good!

I like the Freud blades. Hold up well and give clean cuts.

ha ha... in actuality i do have arthritis and it is easier to grip in some ways than a regular comb. I work in health care and now that you mention it this comb design could very well allow people with significant physical defects comb there hair with some sense of independence and dignity as long as they had good dexterity in the shoulder and arm.

After my shop burned, I picked up used tools to replace the ones I had. I found an old very heavy duty 10 in. Craftsman table saw at an auction. No one wanted it because it was 220 volt. I got it for $12.00. I got around to re-wiring the motor for 120 volt and the old blade was warped enough that the kerf was about 3 times as wide as the blade. I got a 110 tooth Freud blade and gagged at the cost, but it was so worth it. After three years, it still cuts smooth as glass. I cut almost entirely hard woods. I have mostly cut through 3.5 inch oak, a few months I was cutting sugar maple and recently tulip poplar and it still cuts as smooth as can be. I have been cutting turning blanks, which means both cross cuts and rip cuts. So three years of hobby use and the blade is great.

I just went down and looked at my saw and I have he Freud Diablo 1050X on my General contractor saw. I use for almost everything. I do have a Freud Ripping blade that I change to when cutting hard wood for cutting boards. I also have a cheap Dewalt 7 1/4 blade that I use when I cut thin slats for my baskets. There are videos that recommend using a 7 1/4 most of the time. I can't locate the one I watched but the chap used it for everything.

Great job Bobby on all you should get down to the shop more often

Excellent work all round Bobby. Marg

Excellent patterns and cuttings you made!

I just placed an order for that blade. I also have a lightweight saw. Lowe's Kobalt saw with the folding stand on wheels. I have been suffering along for over a year with original cheap blade. I also had a 1946 Dewalt Uni-saw. I had no need for such a saw. Cast iron base. Even on wheels it took some effort to wheel it out to the driveway. It also took more room than I had to spare. Once my motorcycle was gone my wife wanted her car in the garage. Go figure.

This is what i use Kevin http://woodworker.com/diamond-hone-mate-mssu-880-889.asp I also use and have basically only use now is Trend diamond sharpening system. Here is a file that shows what and how to use. There is differences in diamond sharpeners and the way diamonds pieces are adhered to the tool and also the type diamonds used. Makes a huge difference in quality of sharpening. I now sharpen router bits, saw blades, plane blades, planer and jointer blades, all my turning tools can be touched up, chisels and so on. Here is the link http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/docs/trend_diamond_sharpening.pdf The problem with sandpaper is wood sandpaper is not good for sharpening any blades. The grains are too course even at the finest grits. You scratch the blades with micro scratches that need to be polished out if you want scary sharp results. That is why strops are used in many instances. Takes that burr off. If you are going to use sandpaper then use wet dry metal paper (the black stuff) This subject also applies to grinding wheels and the differences in wheels.

Oh Kevin you do not know how many different saw blades are on the market and the designs. Just the teeth set is a huge deal. Number of teeth. Angles of teeth. Pitch of teeth. Yes different rip blades as opposed to crosscut and that goes for all blades including handsaws. Materials being cut will determine type of blade to choose. This goes for bandsaw blades as well. Scrollsaw blades are in the same category and that is why they make so many different styles. I have tried many blades from different companies but for my money Freud has done and carry any blade I need in whatever configuration I need. The relief cuts in a blade are important too. Much experimenting has been done from each company as to what is their best design. But they will keep the noise level down and tension relieved on the metal of a blade. It is always good to buy good quality blades from a reputable company. Cheep blades can have failing weld spots and one thing you do not want is a carbide tooth flying around the shop. Never lay a blade down flat. Always place back in sleeve or hang from arbor hole. Blades can warp especially thin kerf. Treat a good saw blade well and it will perform just right for you. Keep them clean.

Another vote for Freud. I use their Diablo blades and the glue line rip blades. Local Home Depot carries them or Amazon.

Very nicely done. Thanks for sharing these with us. DW

Back in the days of a good income, I bought the Forrest Woodworker II and also the dado set. I spent a lot of money foolishly back in those days. That's why I'm shopping now for the best blade for the money. Thanks for your input. I was just looking at the Freud blades on Amazon. Very highly rated but the price is under $50.

Howdy all. I'm going to bump this thread as a reminder about SSV's policy on political and religious discussions See first post in this thread for more details. We are heading into the mid-term elections in the US, and as always, things are getting more divisive by the day. Politics and religion is the quickest way to ruin friendships we tried so hard to nurture. So instead, we rally together around a common interest...scroll sawing. If you want to ruin friendships, Facebook is the place you want. If you want to talk about making sawdust, SSV is the place to be. Thanks everybody, for making this a Political Free Zone. Keep on scrolling!

I just read this posts Kevin so I will add a few comments. As Far as the switch goes do yourself favor and buy the correct switch and forget about trying to fix it. Not worth the effort and could become a hazard down the road. If looking to buy new saw you have questions to ask yourself as with all tools. How much room do you have?? How large of work needs to be cut on it (10" vs 12") Do I need a slider or just compound. Always buy a compound cutter instead of a standard chop saw. Any time you start adding moving parts accuracy decreases but will still get decent cuts. The Dewalt line is about the best in that price range with Bosch a close second. Again if you go with a slider then you need more room. The Bosch takes less room and does what a slider will do. I have not used a miter saw in so long it collects dust in the corner of the shop. My go to tool is always the tablesaw. You mentioned sharing blades with your tablesaw. That is a no-no!!! A miter saw requires different blades than a table saw. Do people interchange yes they do but run the risk of injury. A miter saw uses a negative rake blade or a blade with no more than a 3 degree rake on it as opposed to a table saw blade which uses a positive rake. The reason is with a miter saw you are applying the blade to the wood as in a tablesaw you apply the wood to the blade. The wood will have a tendency to climb or jump in a miter saw if using a positive rake blade. Something like when you run a router the wrong direction of the grain when routing. The router will want to pull from your hands. Highly recommend buying a good multi-purpose blade for the mitersaw The teeth count depends on material cutting and smoothness of cut. Miter saws tend to have runout in the arbors but when are new usually does not show up. People lift the saws with the handle and do not lock them down and things get wacky. Thin kerf blades help to not tax the motor so much because it removes less material when cutting. I use thin kerf blades in my tablesaw all the time. As I said the decision of 10" vs 12" is a matter of material size being cut. If you go with a slider then you make up for the size that way or unless you want max depth then 12" slider is the way to go. Handles. Most people do not consider this when buying but comfort is something not to take lightly. "D" handle as opposed to "T" handle. I prefer "T" handle, because I feel more natural pulling down on the handle. Just a matter of feel. But use it for a long time all day long and it does matter. The best miter saw on the market in my opinion is the Festool Kapex saw. It is dead on accurate, quiet, and a precision tool. Over $1200 so not cheap. Many things to consider when buying any tool. But do not skip just because one is cheaper. Buy once and be happy. By the way those lasers are good for close but not dead on so do not use them for real accurate cuts.

Don't retire,You'll have more things to do than ever!

My cousin sent me a picture that needed to be made into a scroll saw pattern.Thanks Blights69

I'm betting you they'll be too sticky to get back off easily... Mine get really hard to get back off if I stick them on then get sidetracked and they set around for a week or so.. I'm betting you should look into white shelf liner and cut it down for the printer.. Need a way to hook the whole roll to the printer... then you could print 8ft sections to fit your boards LOL

contact the company, explain your use, and ask for a sample. A lot of companies will send you a free sample just to make a sale.

Also found qty 1,000 here for $96 https://www.onlinelabels.com/OL177.htm?src=dlc-282 I'll have to see how the ones to that I currently have. I want to adhere them straight to the wood but don't want them falling off, or requiring a chisel to get them off.

I must have deleted my go to seller for them on eBay..or they removed the labels from their inventory because I usually keep them in my fav. list for quick access but just a couple quick links to show the pricing.. https://www.ebay.com/itm/250-Shipping-Labels-Full-Sheet-8-5x11-Self-Adhesive-PACKZON/152896747215?epid=1364563073&hash=item23995b36cf:g:4kUAAOSwjn9Zj2Gt https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-Full-Sheet-Shipping-Labels-8-5-X-11-Self-Adhesive-USPS-UPS-FedEx-Amazon-FBA/372115530523?epid=17007863752&hash=item56a3d0631b:g:y3EAAOSw~l1Z8CSS Probably should look into different brands to see if I could save money on having to buy the shelf liner too.. be nice to find some that you could stick right to the wood and have it peel back off easily.. that said though.. I'm thinking that wouldn't work.. I'd rather they be sticky and not worry about them coming off my packages.. LOL

Same as mine, 4 x 2 must be the golden angle.

I made this crayon holder for my friend's grandson. I found the pattern in a book of woodworking projects. The truck body and trailer are made from poplar wood. I bought the wheels from the local Hobby Lobby. I painted it with acrylic craft paint and finished it with a few coats of polyurethane. And yes, he's a big fan of dinosaurs.

Hi Jason, Welcome. Ask all the questions you want and folks will chime in. Most of what you'll learn will be by trial and error... types of wood, thickness of wood, which blades, what to make... It's truly endless. My bit of advice is start simple, get familiar with the saw and how it cuts, then experiment with different types of projects. Intricate fretwork likely isn't the place to start as any tiny false move and you'll have a mess and it'll just frustrate you. Personally, I buy my wood from Lowe's and Home Depot but be sure to check out hardwood specialty stores in your area. Take a look at the website Wooden Teddy Bear for tons of options of things to make. http://www.woodenteddybearonline.com/x/ There are also plenty of free patterns available here and other sites. Enjoy the adventure. Iggy