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I've always had a thing for these old Grumman aircraft. The F3F was the last Bi-Plane fighter the Navy used for carrier service. I spent many hours cleaning up pixels to make this ready for cutting. Lots of thin lines (ref. Scoreing thread) and cutting was a little challenge. I cut a matching 1/4" backing and paint it black acrylic. I was going to contact spray the "back" of the cutting but the phone rang and I picked it up (scam Call!) I got back to my project and starting spraying and quickly realized I WAS SPRAYING THE FRONT!!!. I could have gotton away with it but for the TEXT.... I have a 5 gallon can of "OFF". Now I have a 4 gallon can of "OFF" Found a shallow baking pan and proceeded to use up a bunch of papertowels to clean it up. I did a whole lot of scraping in the cuttings to clean out the glue and sanding to get it back to where I should have been 2 hours earlier.... Finally got it done. Watch those distractions...

This was designed by Kory Kiker. Detailed notes and photos about this project can be found in the thread:

Last batch of comic book covers for the show. Now i move to traditional cuttings. 45hrs a week at my job and 30+ hrs in the shop.

He always wanted to see the wood prior to cutting my 3D bird houses, well here it is. I used pieces of scrap and glue them together to get the proper dimensions either 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" square, next glue the pattern to the wood, drill 1/8" hole for the perch, 1/2" Forster bit for the entry to the house. Now we move to cutting I start with the face of the bird house and then re tape it together and cut the other side of the pattern. Take it apart and you have the end products.

I think this could be a decent deal for someone that was close by to pick up... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hegner-Multimax-18-Variable-Speed-Scroll-Saw-Jig-Pattern-Saw-NY-NJ-Pickup/173557373555?hash=item2868d35a73:g:dc0AAOSwPR9bq5QZ

I did you one better Dan. I got the same saw, a 12 spd drill press and a 14" bandsaw all delivered to my house for $2100. It helped that I was in the tool business though. No sales tax.

I was cutting several things last night but couldn't settle to do just one, so I picked up a new pattern that I'd printed out. Now this pattern was printed onto yellow paper as this was what I had to hand, but the pattern its self was done in red ink. Wow, what a difference the red ink made. I could see the teeny tiny blade in my new saw really well and it made cutting a pleasure. I had begun to go cross eyed with my patterns that had black lines as I found it hard to distinguish the blade from the ink and made it a very tiring time for my old brain. Now to fathom out how to get the patterns I have in my box changed to red ink. !!!!

Hi All, Been awhile since i was on here what with moving house and doing it up i did not have the chance but i am back now (sorry Travis) looking forward to seeing all your art........Paul

Made a couple of collapsible basket on using 3/4" oak and the other 1 1/8" Douglas fir, also since Thanksgiving is getting close here in Canada made some napkin holders. Also I got a few holders for the bird houses or other things. Busy in the shop.

Ya know, even if you had to pay a couple hundred to have it shipped, that's a great price. I will say this though, knowing what I now know about Hegner saws, I'd really have to be able to try it out. Run it, start it, cut with it. They are a different breed from what most folks are used to.

Well I've overcome one hurdle at least. If I 'save' my downloadable patterns, then open them with Inkscape, 'Select' the pattern and change the fill and stroke colours it works beautifully, and so simple. I've done one with red lines on a grey background and I've done one with red lines on a white background so it just shows the red lines when printed. It just means that I'll have to go through my box of paper patterns and try and remember where I got them from and download them to my 'scrolling' folder on my computer and although that is going to be a pain in the butt, I think I like red lines enough to go to that trouble.

I find it simple, with the pattern in Inkscape, go to path and click on trace bitmap, then with the trace selected, left click on the fill colour of your choice, then right click on the colour you want the lines and select set stroke.

Is that a relatively simple procedure ? Or do I have to be Einstein ? Sounds promising. thanks

Mmm, perhaps not making myself clear here. I can change colour of my patterns that I have done in Inkscape. I'm talking about the patterns I have downloaded/printed from elsewhere. They all come in black and white, and wondered if there was a way of changing those to red with the help of technology, such as scanning them and changing the line colour. Oh boy, I wish I was better with words

Okay, thanks Bob, it must have been Inkscape instead of Gimp.

I'll add a comment about the DeWalt. Mine has an LED light that serves the same purpose as a laser. IMHO, it's a better system than a laser, because it shines a light directly down on the edge of the blade, which then casts a shadow of the blade across the board, right where the blade will contact. The shadow image is quite distinct. You can actually see the set in the individual teeth of the blade. Most lasers mount alongside the blade and are not precisely in line with where the blade will cut. This is readily compensated for, but unnecessary with the LED. Now mine didn't come with the saw when I purchased it. I had to buy it separately. But the saw was pre-wired to accept it and installation was simple. I think some of the newer models may come with it factory installed, but I'm not sure of that. I haven't looked at them for a few years.

Thanks for the information.

The difference is the teeth configuration. A normal rip blade has FTG teeth (flat top grind) Designed for easy ripping and removing material. In a glue line blade they are more designed to rip also but with a cleaner edge because they use 3 different teeth FTG and TCG (flat top grind and triple chip grind teeth) Both have deep gullets and more hook than crosscut.

I do not agree with that guy totally on many things but will address the smaller blade. First do not get overconfident of a smaller blade as opposed to a larger one. Any spinning blade will cut you and yes kick back can happen on any saw with any blade. I have used the smaller blade on my saw also but do so because of the thinner kerf I need and nothing more. The blade he kept referencing which was a larger blade was a full size blade made for belt drive saws.Table top saws do well with thin kerf blades. Small blades like the one he shows will wear out faster than a full size because those teeth need to move through the wood more often than a larger blade. A blade does not get raised more than 3 to 4 teeth above work surface you are cutting. Never more than that. (Of course there are some instances that is not the case) A larger blade will have larger carbide teeth than a small blade like that. Larger blades are balanced better than smaller ones like that. Those are designed for skil saws. Skil saws are construct saws and perfection is not a concern. Cutting hard woods you want a solid well tuned blade. Tablesaws are designed for 10" blades.

Another vote for belt drive. My Delta Unl-Saw has three belts and runs as smooth as can be. No vibration and is very quiet. I know it will outlast me and whoever gets it after I’m gone. Bought it about 15 years ago. There used to be a woodworking store in New Mexico called Woodworks Warehouse that was an outlet store for Delta. I got a 3hp, right tilt saw with a 30” Unifence, delivered to my driveway for $1200. It was a purchase of a lifetime!

4"x12"x1/2" Red Oak

I have no idea Ray. I just say, "give it to me in red" and it is done. They have a lot of sophisticated equipment. They do not change it to red and grey. They just print it in red.

I now still have the have the original cheap blade in my little Kobalt saw. 10". The greater the diameter the greater the surface speed. So while the motor goes at a constant speed the 10" blade will have a greater surface speed than a smaller blade. Same as on a lathe, mill, drill or saw. Perhaps the difference is negligible but it is still there. I'll continue to use my new 10" Diablo blade when it arrives to0morrow. No argument here. Just stating an opinion. But what the hell do know?

I use Gimp and I simply open/import the design/pattern, usually a jpg image, go to Colours > Colourise and move the 'Hue' bar to the right to get Red. You can also add the middle bar 'Saturation' to the right to 100%. Click on 'OK' and the jobs a good 'un. I think Travis answered this question from me a couple of weeks ago

Great pieces. Love the patterns and your work. Very fun to view Dick heppnerguy

I used to always do My patterns just black and one day someone asked Me if I could do it with a red border and no fill, Then I was asked to do one with grey and red to save on ink...So that's what I do now! I'm here to please people if I can! lol Bob

Thanks to everyone, when I was making my first cross - I didnt think that crosses are so popular. So there will be more crosses soon

Nice Chris. Seems like a lot of work.

Well, I never knew you could do that. I'll try that next week. Thanks for the tip.

I just take my patterns to an office supply store like Office Depot or Staples and have the patterns copied in red. Most of the time I have the patterns either enlarged or reduced to fit the material I have on hand. It's cheap or at least not very expensive. Red makes life so much easier for me.

What I do is, load a pattern in Inkscape, trace it then set the stroke to red and fill to either white or light grey.

Hello Brenda, What you do in Inkscape is set the stroke to red and the fill to light grey...so you don't use too much red ink...if you see what I mean, You can alter the red stroke by hovering over the number of the stroke with your Mouse and setting a higher number if you want o.k. Bob P.S. To alter your patterns you would need to reload them into Inkscape to edit them...if you had done them in Inkscape

Must confess, good lighting or not I find watching a black blade work on black lines doesn't sit well with my eyes.

Here is the one you need! https://www.infinitytools.com/10-laser-kerf-saw-blade-40t-1-16-kerf watch the little video.. On thing I do highly recommend for a table saw is GRR-Ripper pushblock used in the video. I have two and use them a lot.

Nice, Chris. How are you doing those. Are those copies of the covers glued on wood.

You might check the library here. Somewhere there is an article on how to do it in Gimp. It can't be too hard to do because I use to do it. I haven't taken the time to try to figure it out since I got a Mac computer. I liked red lines with gray instead of black for the cut out sections. I bet Bob can tell how. He does a lot of his patterns that color.

foxfold, if ya figure out how to switch them over to red, can ya let us know? i still cant figure it out. cut one pattern that had red lines and what a breeze it was. but cant figure out how to make black lines red on my printer.

fantastic job

Decent? Wow that looks like a fantastic deal Kevin. A two year old Hegner for $400 that looks like brand new. I would snap that saw up in a New York second if I lived close enough to go pick it up.

You bet Bobscroll! This one goes to the fishing policeman that found my shop. He compliments me daily!

Lots of dedicated work here! Worth every second!

I love that Frank. I wish I had the nerve to try that.

I have tried 6 blades so far from various mfgs - I can say that I now use Freud exclusively. So much so that I use them in my Miter saw, circiular and my table saw. Works great for me and the kerf is very thin on some of mine

I have a Delta 36-725, I upgraded from an old craftsman - both were direct drives and since I have no experience with belt driven saws, I can only say that my Delta is a fantastic tool. I've had for 2 years now, and after tuning it, I can do any task I've needed. It's very quiet, and so far has cut everything I've put through it. From: Logs to plywood to hard wood. From dadoes to miter sawing it delivers very accurate cuts (within 1/32). For the price is was and remains the perfect table saw for my needs.

I have a Ridgid Cabinet Saw in my shop. It's belt drive and compared to it's predecessor which was direct drive. Hands down on the belt drive . Smoother more power and more reliable in my opinion.

That is not a shop. It's a FACTORY! Very well explained and very interesting. Love shop pictures.

...why is the air dead still until I get a paint can in my hand? Now it's blowing about 15mph and spray painting is out of the question.

Great job the colours make them pop just right

I made a clamp for compound cutting and posted it sometime ago. It was spring loaded and add sand paper on the inside. The springs make certain to keep things held properly even after making a cut. I added a couple of knobs to hold it better. I made a couple of different sizes