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Just to prove that I do get out in my shop every now and then, I have am going to post a couple of easy ones I did yesterday morning. These are not finished yet and I will not post the finished pieces because I know they do not matter that much. The Elvis one took about 10 minutes to cut and the pug took me about 20 minutes to cut. Just messing around, no real reason for cutting them. just needed to be out in my shop and hearing my EX humming away and making saw dust. Dick heppnerguy

Made a couple of collapsible basket on using 3/4" oak and the other 1 1/8" Douglas fir, also since Thanksgiving is getting close here in Canada made some napkin holders. Also I got a few holders for the bird houses or other things. Busy in the shop.

Paul, JT posted about them being different in my post the other day about needing new miter saw.. Below is copied and pasted what he said so he or I don't have to re-type it all "You mentioned sharing blades with your tablesaw. That is a no-no!!! A miter saw requires different blades than a table saw. Do people interchange yes they do but run the risk of injury. A miter saw uses a negative rake blade or a blade with no more than a 3 degree rake on it as opposed to a table saw blade which uses a positive rake. The reason is with a miter saw you are applying the blade to the wood as in a tablesaw you apply the wood to the blade. The wood will have a tendency to climb or jump in a miter saw if using a positive rake blade. Something like when you run a router the wrong direction of the grain when routing. The router will want to pull from your hands. Highly recommend buying a good multi-purpose blade for the mitersaw The teeth count depends on material cutting and smoothness of cut. Miter saws tend to have runout in the arbors but when are new usually does not show up. People lift the saws with the handle and do not lock them down and things get wacky. Thin kerf blades help to not tax the motor so much because it removes less material when cutting. I use thin kerf blades in my tablesaw all the time. As I said the decision of 10" vs 12" is a matter of material size being cut. If you go with a slider then you make up for the size that way or unless you want max depth then 12" slider is the way to go." And here is the topic from which it came from.

He always wanted to see the wood prior to cutting my 3D bird houses, well here it is. I used pieces of scrap and glue them together to get the proper dimensions either 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" square, next glue the pattern to the wood, drill 1/8" hole for the perch, 1/2" Forster bit for the entry to the house. Now we move to cutting I start with the face of the bird house and then re tape it together and cut the other side of the pattern. Take it apart and you have the end products.

Just finished up this guy.....has solar light in the top to light it up at night...….made from cedar fence picket.....rattle can paint.....this is the ghost pattern, I also have a traditional face, and a scary face.....comments always appreciated.....ty

Was asked to make for a wedding. Used padauk with BB plywood backer. Pattern was made by Bobscroll. With may thanks to him! It is 8” x24” cut on a EX21.

Beautiful piece!

@Scrappile I took your advice and decided to write General International Canada an email regarding the condition of the packaging and my EX-21 saw when I received it. I have to admit, I don't think I ever wrote to a company to complain about a product. This was a first. It was pretty long and I let them know how poor the packaging was and the issues I had with the table, missing screws, lack of packing material, etc. Well yesterday while I was at work ( could have sworn I retired back in June ) I actually received a phone call from a gentlemen at General International who was apologizing for the condition on both the packaging and saw as I received it. He asked what I wanted to do to make it right. He offered to send me the missing screws, new table, new saw whatever I wanted to do, he would do. I thought that was very customer oriented on his part. The saw it running great so I told him everything was fine now but that I appreciated his call. I'm very happy with the saw and expect many years of use from it. Thought I'd update you. Terry

Well said John. I agree. There are all sorts of videos showing people doing all sorts of things that may appear safe, but the simple fact is, as you stated, these full size saws are designed to work with proper size blade. The fact that they may be able to accept different size blades is likely more an accident of circumstance than by design. A smaller blade, for a one-of application, may work OK, but I wouldn't want to make a habit of it.

Hi All, Been awhile since i was on here what with moving house and doing it up i did not have the chance but i am back now (sorry Travis) looking forward to seeing all your art........Paul

Hi everyone, I need some help finding who did this pattern. Believe it or not, I made about 20 of these last year and wanted to make more but for some reason, I can't find my pattern. I think it was a Steve Good pattern but I can't seem to find it on his site. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks ralph.

Okay so yesterday my new power switch came in the mail so I installed it. Works great now, Yay... This morning I took at trip to my favorite store LLJohnsons workbench. Picked up a new blade for the miter saw and one for my table saw. Hope what I bought will be a good choice for ripping boards on my table saw for glue ups ( cutting boards) has to be better than I was using. I’ve already installed the miter saw blade and made a test cut. Wow what a difference!

I really like this! I hope you don't mind if I steal the idea.

kev, if ya dont have one yet, ya may want to consider a wixey gage for getting the blade perfectly 90 degrees to the table. comes in handy for other things,too. i use it to check my drill press table alignment with the chuck.

Thanks for sharing Dan. You always share such great seasonal projects.

hey... i'm the one that cant drive a nail without bending it. even when i drill a guide hole... i am a nail gun kinda guy!!!

4"x12"x1/2" Red Oak

Whoa.....busy busy!

Oh….very nice work!

Kevin I have the same blade in my Miter saw. I'm sure your going to love it. I use a 24 tooth for ripping on my table saw. good clean cuts and no burning. Glad you got up and running.

Hopefully they will looking to it and improve. They want to sell their product they need to be informed and take action. I did it with a can of Valspar paint once. I would not dry, was tacky even after sitting week to dry. I notified the company, they called and wanted me to give them the batch number off the can so they could investigate. I thought I probably would hear not more, but a week or so later I got another call, they had investigated and in fact found something wrong with that batch and did a recall. They also refunded my money for the paint. Coarse it didn't make up for the work it took me to remove the paint and repaint. But they acted like they appreciated my input and at least did something.

I think you will be very pleased with your new blades!

So glad you are back, Paul, from another Paul.

Big welcome back

They are not too deep but the one using 1 1/8" thick wood has a pretty good size and you can always play with the cut angle. The turkey napking holders are from Steve Good.

nice job

welcome back

Very nice cutting!

About fear to try intarsia, I guess it must be the fear of the unknown and/or the fear of screwing up. I, on the other hand, love learning about the unknown and, since I know that I am likely going to make mistakes of some sort on every project, even when I have experience, it is kind of a relief to blame those mistakes on inexperience.

Oh I love the pug, Elvis is great too. Simple but effective. Marg

Welcome back Paul. The last we heard from you, you were going on holiday, then after a while I thought 'long holiday' Good to hear from you, hope you are fit and well. Marg

Yes. The owner is in NJ and used it. I have one and it is an excellent production saw that will outlast the owner.

The King !

Price is good. Is that saw produced for American market? 110v ?

Well Frank, you did yourself proud. I have a difficult time understanding why so many scrollers seem to be afraid of intarsia. I guess that goes for the spiral blade too. I kind of figure the more you try to learn the more one can do. Great little frog. I have it on my long. long to do list Dick heppnerguy

Well, look who the cat dragged in!!! Welcome back Paul, you have been missed!!!!

Steve Good has a you tube video telling & showing how to change to red. I don’t know how to insert links but go to his website click on videos an it is titled “changing pattern to red line “. Myself a picture tells me more than words.

A Great Big Welcome Back!!

Ray I say this with respect, I would not do it on a constant bases. Certain times when a thinner kerf is needed it will work. But those smaller blades are not designed for the rpms generated by a tablesaw. The carbide is not as good as a full size blade because these are framing blades. Throw a piece of carbide in some hardwood will not be pretty. The flex in those blades is something that needs to be contended with. (heat will build on those small blades because of speed and amount of times the teeth are in contact with the wood) That video is an accident waiting to happen he had a board climb out of the blade depth that could have cause a kick back. I would not show that video to anyone working in the woodworking business. Too many do not dos in there for my viewing. Any tablesaw weather a tabletop or full size would come with a small blade if they were designed for it but they do not. They come with a 10" blade unless it is a smaller saw. Get yourself a nice quality thin kerf blade and be safe.

Welcome back, Paul! As Phantom Scroller said, you have been missed. God Bless! Spirithorse

Come on,,, only $179, worth buying one just to try it!!

Hello Paul, Last I heard from you was, You were going on holiday, Then....................He's not there? lol Nice to have you back! Bob

Since I have one of those "cheap jobsite" saws, I may just go the 7 1/4" route for most of my cuts. It sure makes a lot of sense and it would have to be much easier on my saw. I sure do wish I had room for even a small belt drive saw. I may have to do some more figuring.

Well I've overcome one hurdle at least. If I 'save' my downloadable patterns, then open them with Inkscape, 'Select' the pattern and change the fill and stroke colours it works beautifully, and so simple. I've done one with red lines on a grey background and I've done one with red lines on a white background so it just shows the red lines when printed. It just means that I'll have to go through my box of paper patterns and try and remember where I got them from and download them to my 'scrolling' folder on my computer and although that is going to be a pain in the butt, I think I like red lines enough to go to that trouble.

It is a steve good pattern, called Manger Box http://www.stevedgood.com/mangerbox.pdf

We missed you Paul hope the moving went well and your fit and well. Roly

Welcome back Paul. Dennis

Hello Brenda, What you do in Inkscape is set the stroke to red and the fill to light grey...so you don't use too much red ink...if you see what I mean, You can alter the red stroke by hovering over the number of the stroke with your Mouse and setting a higher number if you want o.k. Bob P.S. To alter your patterns you would need to reload them into Inkscape to edit them...if you had done them in Inkscape

Here is the one you need! https://www.infinitytools.com/10-laser-kerf-saw-blade-40t-1-16-kerf watch the little video.. On thing I do highly recommend for a table saw is GRR-Ripper pushblock used in the video. I have two and use them a lot.