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Well not much to say other then I finished it. All that is left is to drop it off for judging next weekend at the NC State Fair. Frame: Yellowheart, finished with General FInishes Get Satin Urethane and a couple of coats of wax. Frame Dimensions: 15 6/8" x 18 1/8" Lion: Cherry Pattern: Charles Dearing (https://www.bearwood.com/Stunning-Lion-Portrait.html)

Cut from repurposed oak from a kitchen cabinet, mounted on an artist canvas

He always wanted to see the wood prior to cutting my 3D bird houses, well here it is. I used pieces of scrap and glue them together to get the proper dimensions either 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" square, next glue the pattern to the wood, drill 1/8" hole for the perch, 1/2" Forster bit for the entry to the house. Now we move to cutting I start with the face of the bird house and then re tape it together and cut the other side of the pattern. Take it apart and you have the end products.

Just finished up this guy.....has solar light in the top to light it up at night...….made from cedar fence picket.....rattle can paint.....this is the ghost pattern, I also have a traditional face, and a scary face.....comments always appreciated.....ty

Cut one thing was wrong .SAo off to the hospital i go,another UTI. Came back and cut some more projects! The policeman's going to like these!

So just playing around in the shop and decided to try doing some inlay. I messed up though as I did several test cuttings to get the correct angle. Got real close and thought just a half degree would be about perfect. Problem was I moved it the wrong direction . Anyway it was a fun quick project and I can probably sand it down on the belt sander to get it matched up. This is about 1/16 inch off. Gotta say the tilting head on the Excalibur is a nice feature. This really isn’t my first inlay but I’ve only done a couple other pieces about 13 years ago on a crap saw so it wasn’t as enjoyable. Lol

Yesterday when I posted the pug and the Elvis cutting, I said I would not re-post them when I got them done, but, I came up with the idea of how to make a 'make believe frame' and added a few simple cutouts to it. I liked how it came out and thought it might be helpful or at least interesting to others to make their cutting just a little more appealing to the eye. so here is the results... I know it is nothing special but I think it is a simple solutions for some of the beginner scrollers, if nothing else. Dick heppnerguy

Made a couple of collapsible basket on using 3/4" oak and the other 1 1/8" Douglas fir, also since Thanksgiving is getting close here in Canada made some napkin holders. Also I got a few holders for the bird houses or other things. Busy in the shop.

Just to prove that I do get out in my shop every now and then, I have am going to post a couple of easy ones I did yesterday morning. These are not finished yet and I will not post the finished pieces because I know they do not matter that much. The Elvis one took about 10 minutes to cut and the pug took me about 20 minutes to cut. Just messing around, no real reason for cutting them. just needed to be out in my shop and hearing my EX humming away and making saw dust. Dick heppnerguy

I have been playing with this recently. I mark the pattern with arrows. I have tried putting blue tape with arrows on my Saw table, I seem to forget about them. Mark your pattern with direction arrows. Also think about where would be the most convenient place to start and mark that for drilling.

I had a craftsman 10” contractor saw, hated it and gave it away. I now have a 5hp delta unisaw. Teaching woodworking and using the powermatic tablesaw I just dislike anything that is not up to par. To answer your question belt drive beats direct drive any day.

I've never tried to un-cup wood like this.. i have in the past just flipped it over so the wood would breath from the opposite side and put some weight on it and it straightened out but not completely... Something i have learned about is.. certain wood types are way more prone to this than others.. especially thinner boards that are quite wide.. Something else I've learned is.. tight grained wood is less prone to cupping than loose grain wood.... Rarely ever see quarter sawn wood cup like this. and I look specifically for quarter sawn when buying Oak because of this issue as I don't saw a lot of Oak so the boards sit around for quite a while.. Hard to pick your own lumber for those that have to mail order it.. but if you have the option to sort out your own lumber.. always get tight grained boards where the grain lines are close to one another..

I actually bought a Klingspor brand blade for my miter saw and really saw (no pun) a big difference. Klingspor brand blades are made in Italy where I believe the Freud blade is made. The right blade in the right tool can be amazing.

I just saw this on Craigslist and I not buying but I think it is a pretty nice, well thought out workstation.. Lot of ideas here: https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/tls/d/scroll-saw-hobby-work-table/6709288515.html

That's a lot of tight cutting there. Great job. I think you will win. Good luck.

Boy I haven't been there in years. In the beginning I used to get regular mailings from them. May need to check it out again. Still have some of their patterns.

Very outstanding piece. This should bring a ton of nice compliments your way. It is a very ambitious piece that you made into a master piece for sure Dick heppnerguy

Ray your issue with poplar reminded me of a problem our family had with it years ago. As I have said before I was born and raised on a sawmill. We had a contract with a window company that made aluminum storm windows to provide crating material. We provided them with green 1x6 and 1x3 poplar boards for making their crates. When we got an order cut we would set the bunk of wood outside to be delivered. If we didn't weight the top of the bunk down we would end up with most of the upper most boards ends curling upwards. In all my years working around the mill poplar was the worst wood we ever worked with for cupping and bowing. Ray I might suggest if you have a paved driveway or sidewalk wet the wood down and then weight it down good the full length for a few days. Then I would suggest storing it with weight on it until you are ready to use it.

Ray, I have several books that have missing pages because I’ve cut out the page in order to scan it. I had made a suggestion to Fox Chapel on making their pattern books easier to scan, but that never happened.

Great job!!! Did you use cherry ply or solid wood and what thickness? Again, GREAT!

I have found a spot on the floor that was flat and large enough before.

I just take a picture of the pattern with my phone and email it to myself. Then I can play with it on the computer. Dont know how to make them red though. I use paint.net to adjust the pattern like cropping it and such. I save them as jpg so it will open across platforms. Once i get it right in paint. net I open excel or any spreadsheet program you have like that and insert the pic. Then you can adjust the size and it will print out across multiple pages if you want to. Just need to tape them together or course when done.

Lots of questions come to mind to give you any kind of reasonable answer. Are these signs subject to the elements Are you planning od keeping the oak natural or are you painting Going with a plywood backer is this going to be marine grade or waterproof Are you open to other options

Excellently done That looks like it was a lot of work. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

Good example of patterns not having to have 100s of holes to be effective. Very nice!

I usually have other things done there, but I would guess that 1 oversize copy converted to red is less then the cost of a postage stamp.

It may work and it may not. It's just the nature of wood. Worth a try. I'd give it a shot before I would rip the board and re-glue it. To me, ripping and re-glueing just gives you a board that looks like it was all chopped up. Sometimes it's necessary, but takes a lot of extra work to get it back together and smooth again. Do that as a last resort or get another flat piece and use the cupped one for something else.

Wetting the cup well, waiting a bit, adding weight has worked for me

very nice job

Hi everyone, I need some help finding who did this pattern. Believe it or not, I made about 20 of these last year and wanted to make more but for some reason, I can't find my pattern. I think it was a Steve Good pattern but I can't seem to find it on his site. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks ralph.

I was also thinking that I could rip it into strips and flip and glue them back together. I know that it works with thicker wood. Not sure it would work with something this thin.

Thanks,Wish I had a cleaning elf!

Designs a Million,by Smitty! You don't get caught late on holidays ever! Good one!

I sold all the ones I made last year (3) for $30 or $35 each.

After seeing your first post on this, I went out and got some solar lights to make a couple of these, but haven't gotten around to making them yet. Thanks for adding to the list of projects I have in line to do.

Go to this site and scroll down to free fonts and you should find it. http://www.otbpatterns.com/free-scroll-saw-patterns.php Larry

I have that font and I believe I got it from dafont.com.

roundnativity 2018 sg.pdfSteve Good made a new one this year round nativity.

Well, I went to Home Depot today and they had the Diable 10-50 for $36.97. With my 10% veterans discount, well, you get the idea. Anyway, it sure seems like a very well made blade. Thanks to all for your help and I gained a ton of knowledge on this subject. Since there is a very similar topic going on with Kevin and his miter saw, between the two, I am now "almost" an expert. Ha!

Great Job .Now I will have to cut some . Did you cut all four sides?

Very neat! I will have to do some of them.

Seven layers plus a stand...… even if you stack cut you are only making 3 or 4 at a shot. I am think more like $30 if cut from plywood and $35-$40 if cut from hardwoods. Ralph, you did a wonderful job. I will have to make a few for my holiday show.

kev, if ya dont have one yet, ya may want to consider a wixey gage for getting the blade perfectly 90 degrees to the table. comes in handy for other things,too. i use it to check my drill press table alignment with the chuck.

Good choices Kevin. You will see the difference. What makes Freud such a good blade company is all the information on their blade and packaging. Tells you everything you want to know about the blade. It shows you the teeth configuration so you know what they refer to when they say triple grind tooth or flat grind or alternating grind. Keep the blade clean and it will last a long time. Just use a blade cleaner or some liquid dish soap. Use to be Simple green was the big cleaner but they have found it is too corrosive and will eat at the welds. I like the Freud line of blades. Reasonable in price, well made and balanced, and carbide can be sharpened many times. There are so many types of blade on the market and if you are into extreme woodworking you can hone in on exact blades to use other than that combination blades get the job done. Have fun and always practice safety when using any tool.

So I don’t know if you have the same setup as I have. I took the whole jointer apart so I could reroute the wires. But really all that needs to be done I think is to pull the variable speed switch out to access the wires and the circuit board. I was going to just repair the circuit board by soldering a new pot switch in it. Not for me as I don’t use it need the variable speed. Not a big fan of modifying a tool like this because one day some other person may end up with the machine and hurt themself because of my modifications. So do this at your own risk lol. Anyway first you need to remove the speed control knob. Mine had a very small set screw which took a very small Allen wrench. Then behind that is a nut and washer. Then you can remove the 4 screws to get inside to the circuit board and the wires. NOTE: there is another screw all the way to the back that also holds the circuit board in. I broke my circuit board because I didn’t see that last screw otherwise like I said I’d have soldered a new pot to the circuit board. You really don’t have to remove the circuit board but I did for easy access to the wires. There are 3 wires on mine two white and one black. I just connected the two white wires together and I cut the black wire off over from the power switch side. I took my circuit board right out and pushed all the wires over to the power switch side where that came from anyway. If you can solder good I’d just buy a new pot switch and fix it the way it’s supposed to be. . I attached a couple of photos on my circuit board and the spot where it fits into the jointer. I no longer have the wires on that side so maybe you’ll see where that last screw connects to the circuit board. Quite simple fix to bypass it without taking the whole thing apart like I did. The pot switch is the little round switch where the control knob connects to and can be bought for about $5

Wow! 20 of them. It sure looks great.

Thank you Katie. I was searching it under nativity scene. Maybe that's why it wouldn't show up. Thanks again.

I wish I had a dedicated out building for a shop and space would be no problem. I would have had all the latest and greatest tools. I am a tool junkie.But I work out of a basement shop. I have managed to fit quite abit tools in there and still able to function well. It is nice to have full size toys and walk over and use whenever the need comes up. But they made bench top tools for a reason and yes things can get done using them but there are drawbacks. You make work with what you have. The one thing is not to compromise safety. I have a Delta 6" full size and love it. Use it on every clock I make. We can talk routers when the time comes up.

My thought exactly JT.. and yes it is just a cheap Delta table top model.. I picked it up about 10 years ago at a garage sale for $25.. was still pretty much new.. While I don't use it a whole lot I'd also be lost without it for certain things that I do use it for.. I think Murphy seen me put new knives in it last year and thought he'd talk me into a new jointer.. At a recent wood expo show I was looking / thinking quite hard about the bigger Jet jointer they had on display.. but was hard to justify $1000 for something I just don't use a lot but still need in the shop.. Plus.. no more than I use the thing.. it's also hard to justify the floor space the bigger higher end ones take up.. not that I'm short on space (YET anyway ) Money better to spend on better saw blades as we discussed yesterday.. Like a better table saw and someday a router..

Howdy all. I'm going to bump this thread as a reminder about SSV's policy on political and religious discussions See first post in this thread for more details. We are heading into the mid-term elections in the US, and as always, things are getting more divisive by the day. Politics and religion is the quickest way to ruin friendships we tried so hard to nurture. So instead, we rally together around a common interest...scroll sawing. If you want to ruin friendships, Facebook is the place you want. If you want to talk about making sawdust, SSV is the place to be. Thanks everybody, for making this a Political Free Zone. Keep on scrolling!