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Finally framed this one. Pattern by Ken Keyes. Stack cut two 1/8th inch BB ply, cut with Sawbird #2/0 spirals and frame from some cedar fence boards I had in the garage. Jeff

Throw back to my SERE instructor days.

More scrollwork for the policeman

Creepy skull I found on Pinterest, couldn't find any artist reference to give credit to. It is now stained a VERY dark walnut. Also...Halloween tends to have a lot of parties, and scary stuff at the parties, so who better to DJ the party than the Big V himself? Cut this one yesterday, had one tiny bridge break on me (bad cut planning on my part, cut the wrong side leading towards the bridge first, the thicker rim around the right-hand side of his shades). And for the record (har....DJ's...records....okay, I'll keep my day job), I also have a DJ Yoda to go with Darth Vader.

Let me be early on this one, because I was just taking to a guy about it yesterday. I may have showed this here before,,, but can't remember. This a pen I made for a Halloween pen making contest several years ago. I did use a scroll saw to make it. The black is strips of cut PVC Drain, Waste, Vent pipe. I cut and glued three strips together, to make a thicker piece and scrolled the little bats in to the piece. Glued three more pieces and scrolled some more bats. Doing it that way made it so there are bats on both sides of the pen. I filled the bats with epoxy mixed with red paint. When that dried I glued to two halves together to make the pen blank. I then mounted the blank on the lathe and turned the pen. I had no idea how it would turn out, but I think it came out pretty neat. One of the funnest to make pens I did. Oh, and it won the contest. Coarse there were only 6 or 7 entries.

after getting the VS fixed on my excaliber i was making quite a bit of dust. having an enjoyable day in the shop and wouldnt ya know it, the top blade clamp decided to strip its threads. i guess 4 years and a jillion times threading through holes finally wore it out. i have faith ray at seyco will have me back in business before the weekend. now i have no excuse to put some finish and ribbons on ornaments!

Thank you Grampa!

Cut one thing was wrong .SAo off to the hospital i go,another UTI. Came back and cut some more projects! The policeman's going to like these!

Yesterday when I posted the pug and the Elvis cutting, I said I would not re-post them when I got them done, but, I came up with the idea of how to make a 'make believe frame' and added a few simple cutouts to it. I liked how it came out and thought it might be helpful or at least interesting to others to make their cutting just a little more appealing to the eye. so here is the results... I know it is nothing special but I think it is a simple solutions for some of the beginner scrollers, if nothing else. Dick heppnerguy

Run across this pattern I had from way back in the day.. I've cut it before a few years ago.. thought it was time to make another one for the website..

Does the name "Jr. Ranger" ring a bell?

Yes. The wood to be inlaid is placed on the bottom and pushes up to fit into the background. I use a hot glue gun to hold these two pieces of wood together as I cut. I do not like to use the terms clockwise or counterclockwise because people get confused with "turning the wood clockwise or the blade is traveling clockwise?" Also when cutting the inside of some of the letters it can get very confusing as to which way to turn so I just keep the image to the right of my blade all the time. Never fails.

I do a lot of inlay and find that to avoid confusion as to which direction to cut I just always keep the image I want, to the high side of the blade. I tilt the table down on the left so I keep the image to the right of the blade with the wood to be inlaid, on the underside. This is very important when doing lettering.

I spend most of what little money I get or have left on Future customers for 10 years that hadn't happened yet.But I have faith it will take off.

The untinted paint base trick has made the rounds of woodworking forums for several years now. I've posted it a couple times on this forum when this question arises. I've never had a need or chance to try it, but have read multiple threads on multiple sites over they years that say it works great. Another common comment is that the spar varnish you buy at the Big Box is not much better than regular interior polyurethane. Real spar varnish is what they use on boats and is available at boating supply places, but is prohibitively expensive for most hobbiests.

Excellent price for saw, stand and light... $399 http://www.grizzly.com/products/DW788-20-Scroll-Saw-with-Stand-and-Light/H7414

1/4" underlay. Pattern plagiarized from Smithsonian web site. Just waiting for the feds to knock on my door.

And I agree with the guys as well. Changing the clamps helped my De Walt. Tony

Definitely agree with Ray.

Now would be a great time to upgrade to the Pegas clamps. I just installed mine and what a difference. You can actually see where the blade goes. And they did help a lot with the vibration at different speeds. I didn't like the cost but it was an upgrade that is worth it. Good luck.

Beautiful Cuts! You can find this pattern here, in my album. "Patterns by Kenny Hopkins"

I agree that White Oak will fare better then Red Oak. What concerns me is you choice of backer. Baltic Birch, even painted will not hold up. Get some exterior plywood or even a thin piece of White Oak.

Car is 1" pine. Outside cut with #7 Olsen skip tooth blade. Inside cuts #3 Pegas MG. Base is Poplar from old dresser drawer. Finish is Minwax stain covered with two coats gloss spray poly.

Thanks Ron for this pattern, my customer loved it. It measures 8.5" x 11.5", it's cut from bamboo and is 2.5mm thick. I used a 2/0 Olsen reverse tooth blade. Marg

You have to be one happy scroller to put out this kind of work!

Thank you Dick. It takes 3 hours or more for me to fall asleep.So when i go to sleep at 11, I get up to get a drink of water, sit in the scrolling chair and realize I'm not going back to sleep so my conscience says I could scroll for a while and it happens,lol

It was that pattern. I just checked the date and I cut it 05/09. I think it may been one of the last she did through the other forum.

I am having one of those brain melt downs as I am trying to think of her sign-on name. I can see it in front of me but the brain is not cooperating.

Cute little fella. Great cutting. Nice!

Great job!

That came out very nice

Made a couple of collapsible basket on using 3/4" oak and the other 1 1/8" Douglas fir, also since Thanksgiving is getting close here in Canada made some napkin holders. Also I got a few holders for the bird houses or other things. Busy in the shop.

He always wanted to see the wood prior to cutting my 3D bird houses, well here it is. I used pieces of scrap and glue them together to get the proper dimensions either 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" square, next glue the pattern to the wood, drill 1/8" hole for the perch, 1/2" Forster bit for the entry to the house. Now we move to cutting I start with the face of the bird house and then re tape it together and cut the other side of the pattern. Take it apart and you have the end products.

Super cutting on a nice pattern Marg, well done. Jeff

Nice work on all and thanks for the explanation. Jeff

I know. That's why I said the same thing and posted it. LOL, sorry, couldn't help myself.

Thats a pretty good deal at that price with the stand and light.

http://www.dugnorth.com/blog/uploaded_images/ExoticBirdInstructions.pdf http://re.trotoys.com/article/waddling-duck-mechanical-toy/ http://web.archive.org/web/20150318135011/http://www.greenvillewoodworkers.com/pdfs/misc_pdfs/toyplans/plan062.pdf I like this page https://allcrafts.net/woodworking/woodtoy.htm

TRY HERE https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/372813675398953564/

Let me suggest White Oak over the more common red oak.. I've done some signs in the past and researched high and low on finishing.. I doubt I'd find the website again as this was several years ago.. Anyway.. the best suggestion was to use outdoor paint.. preferably oil based but latex was second behind the oil base and then the varnishes etc.. Anyway you just buy paint from the paint store and do not add any pigment.. it'll look milky white but will dry clear.. needs to apply very light coats though otherwise will dry with a dull haze.. Outdoor paint has anti mildew, uv ray, and bug deterant properties in it.. When I did my sign 8-10 years ago I used latex and it's still looking great.. outside in all the weather elements

Thank you Ralph, Bling hides a lot of sins, lol

Doing that double bevel inlay is fun and interesting. Looks great Kevin.

would be fun to see the finished pieces in person. I find it a little difficult to really see the effects, but then I am old and don't get everything. Dick heppnerguy

My 2 sided sign for Halloween. Front and back. We are expecting 150 or so little goblins.

Great job everyone!!! Here is what i did.

Halloween Mobile, not a very good picture, Sorry The web is about 16" across to give you some perspective. 1/8" Baltic birch

I designed this and my youngest child came up with the colors for the backer got the idea from Kenny Hopkins a friend on facebook he made a couple so I went and found some images and put it into the hat and it is also going to be in scrollers choice magazine on the cover.

Ok, I'll play. I made these as Halloween night light for grandkids.

I think these are all Steve Good patterns. The one is napkin rings.