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Some of you have cut this also. It put 29.8 hours on the saw hour meter. jerry

Well another tablesaw question. I love these. As most people have mentioned the big thing is more room on one side of the blade than another. This could mean a big difference when cutting large stock. But the rule basically is the fence should be on the side of your dominant hand. If you are right handed then right side of blade. You always push the wood with dominant hand for best control.. remember you not only are pushing ahead but also keeping the wood riding against the fence. You always use a push stick closes to the fence for control. Now here are a couple of instances where this does not hold true. Tilt of the blade----- Never tilt a blade into a fence, always away. You do not want to trap the scrap piece of wood between fence and blade this leads to all kinds of trouble mainly kick back. So you like me will have to put fence on opposite side of blade because like me I have a right tilt saw. It maybe awkward when cutting but this is where your kean senses take over and all safety measures are needed to be followed( always at all times too) I still use push stick with right hand and just let the piece fall away on the other side. Now another thing comes up and I do it on my saw so I must be aware of it when I switch. Most books and instructions for fences tell you to align the fence with the blade front and back. But in the older books the method was to align the back of the fence about the width of a dollar bill folded in half away from the blade. The idea and it makes sense is to avoid pinching and thus burning of wood when ripping. You relieve the tension some in the back side. If your saw has some degree of runout this shows up more so than people realize and they can not figure out why they are burning edges. f your saw was setup this way this can become an issue when switching sides with the fence. My fence is easily setable so not much effort for me. Also if you are switching the fence from one side of the blade to the other the fence needs to be parallel with the blade of slightly adjusted as I mentioned. Just because it is done that way on one side does not mean that fence is true and the same only reverse happens on other side. Always good to check with reference to the blade. So not a cut and dry answer as you see. There is some knowledge needed when doing this. It becomes second nature if you do it alot. Now if you have a left tilt blade you are golden and I hate you......

You know I posted on my personal Facebook page the pictures of the military clocks and sold 4 of them so far. Wanted to give another opinion for those that are on a budget. So today I bought this set of patterns and cut them. They are now out drying after dipping in Danish Oil. Picture taken straight off the saw so they do look much better now. I’ll get some better pictures in a few days. Once they dry and have the ribbon on them. Also cut 3 more of the Airforce clocks for the Facebook customers lol.

My first ever thing that I've made from start to finish. I made the pattern in Inkscape and I cut it with my new saw. Now I know it's not earth shattering to many of you, but to me it's great and I'm chuffed to mintballs with it. It has my daughter and grandson's names on it. Onwards and upwards as they say

Just a sidebar observation, but most woodworking/DIY shows demonstrate poor practice when it comes to using the table saw. You will almost never see a blade guard installed on a TV table saw. Some are better than others when it comes to showing proper techniques and set-ups, but I cringe when I watch some of them. I know the claim would be that the guard obscures the camera's view of the actual cut, but I think it's more important to always show the guard installed during operation.

A Steve Good Pattern. (I changed it a little)

Thank you Grampa!

I've been using a table saw for 40 years. My first one rarely ever had the guard on it. After I got comfortable enough with it, I just left it off, even for routine cuts. I have always had a healthy respect for the TS and never had a fear of it. When I replaced my Craftsman with the Jet I currently own, I decided to make it a point to leave the guard & splitter in place. It was a better quality saw, so I quickly found that I could work with the guard & splitter installed and not feel as inconvenienced as I did with the Craftsman. The only time I remove it now is by necessity, when I'm cutting dadoes. My guard and splitter are one piece, so I can't leave it on for non-through cuts. I've never drawn blood with my TS. I've had a few kick backs, but never really had a close call. However, I'm a firm believer in using the safety features of the saw. Accidents happen to the most experienced users. The combination of respect for the tool, proper technique and use of the safety devices is really the best way to prevent accidents. OK, I'm down off the soapbox for good this time, I promise.

My riving knife and blade guard are in a land-fill somewhere. Removing them were the first thing I did with my saw. I am not recommending this but for myself it is OK.

While I can relate to what you say and there was a time when I did very much the same thing, I have to strongly disagree with the philosophy. The guard is a physical obstacle between the blade and your hand. It's your last line of defense, (unless you have a SawStop). Most table saw accidents occur in the blink of an eye. Often the victim doesn't even know exactly what happened. Having a guard covering the spinning blade can mean the difference between a bad scare and a visit to the ER and perhaps even permanent disability. Trust me, it isn't worth it. The riving knife or splitter works to prevent binding, which is a common cause of kickback. Removing both seems like you are asking for trouble. I respectfully encourage you and all others to either learn how to live with the guard and splitter on your saw or upgrade to something more functional for you. The woodworking forums are full of guys who used a table saw for years without the safety devices, with no problems. Then one day, disaster strikes. Please reconsider your current methodology. OK, I'm climbing down off of my soapbox now. You may resume your regularly scheduled programming.

I have a cabinet table saw and the fence has a scale marker that is aligned to the table edge, therefore on my particular machine the fence is on the right to match the fence to the numerical scale. Russ

One of the nicest projects I have seen posted here. Absolutely beautiful and the craftsmanship shows through. Labor of love of the project for sure. When doing a project like that time means nothing. A++++++

A box would be ideal for your inlay. I also want to give intarsia a try someday soon. My kitchen cabinets take top priority the wife wants them done by the middle of November. It took me 6 weeks when I built them the last time with so so equipment. This time I am going on four years 3 1/2 to get started and about 8 weeks of actual work. My wife can't understand why it is taking a long time.

When watching woodworking shows on TV I see the table saw fence is on the right side of the blade. I have always used mine on the left side. Does it matter?

First they do make quick replace riving knives now a days. Snap in and out. Most new saws come with them. I do use mine on occasion if I know a board has internal stress. You can find for just about all saws. I am also in the camp of not using the blade guard. For me it is too cumbersome and obstructs my view too much. But I also use push sticks, featherboards and jigs of all kinds to keep my fingers away from the blade. I am comfortable with what I do and always respect any power tools or any tools for that matter. I worked in construction for 43 years so am way to familiar with things that can go wrong in a heartbeat. I do recommend anyone just getting into woodworking to learn to work with the blade guard. To me the most dangerous tool in the shop is a router. So many things can go wrong with that tool if you do not know what you are doing. Work safe everyone.

Might be a drive but I have my stock clamp that doesn't have much time on it if you need to get to making dust before the Pegas arrives...

Beautiful. You grasped Inkscape very quickly. You did a beautiful job of cutting also!

Very nice indeed!

Hi Ray. You asked what I paid for red copies. Here goes. I had 5 patterns. Each needed to be enlarged at a different percentage. I ordered 4 of each pattern for a total of 20 patterns I paid $11.25 including tax. That's only $0 56.25 each. These enlargements were 125, 150, 160, 165, 176 percent. Lots of fooling around for less than 57 cents each. I always order multiple copies. I sometimes mess up a project and start over. The extras I put in a binder for safe keeping.

I don’t use my guards either also don’t wear a helmet on bike, when young I didn’t use condoms either, girl friend got pregnant, hummm better rethink this. LOL

Awww, I've just checked and they fit Axminster Trade Series EX-16, EX-21 and wouldn't you know it I have the EX18.

ray at seyco is awesome. no problem cancelling order and pegas clamps ordered. cmon mailman!!! oooo- there he goes. think ill go see if there here. yeah, a wee bit antsy to get back to scrolling. a little antsy to get past the holidays and start on my winter project,too!

My wife is the same. That's why there are never any metal chips around my lathe or mill. She keeps it all cleaned up. Whoever heard of a metal lathe without chips around? In my shop in the garage she sweeps and makes sure I wipe my feet off on a rug before entering the house. I grew up in a house where shoes were not allowed. People in our house take off their shoes. There are slippers under a bench at the entrance. I, however, draw the line. I wear my shoes. My wife being a sweetheart allows me.

Tom you are correct. In fact that is where you start when tuning a tablesaw. The miter slots are the most constant thing or measurement on a tablesaw. They are machined with accuracy for depth and straightness or else a miter gauge would not push smoothly through them. Now the blade is set to match the miter slot for straightness. This is done by one of 2 ways. Moving the whole table top (cabinet and some hybrids ) or by moving the trunnions holding the blade mount. (contractors saw) Need to loosen both front and back trunnions here to set properly. There are many specific tools and gauges to do this but a simple block of wood can do the same thing. I can go into detail how this is done if anyone needs to do this and not sure how. In the end you want the front tooth of the blade to be the exact same distance away from the miter slot edge as the back tooth. Now you want the miter gauge to match this set up. I never go by those markings on the gauge or detents if your gauge has them. Now on better gauges you can set the gauge to be accurate. Again I use my draftsman squares when setting the moter gauge to the blade. A good 90 degree square works well as does a 45 degree or 30 degree square. Now the fence is dialed in to the blade. Will warn you if your saw has any runout in the blade arbor or the blade itself than all measurements will be affected. Happy sawing.

Just found and joined this community and felt I had better introduce myself, Hello! I hope you won't be too bored if I waffle on a bit to tell you a little about myself? I use the name scrimper because that is what I am, basically I like to make do and mend things using 'stuff' others throw away, such as old timber, I rarely buy any wood preferring to recycle from offcuts or old broken furniture. I have always been a keen woodworker mostly at home but did do a stint in a boat-building company (wooden boats) and a woodworking factory, though most of my working life was spent in the electrical/electronics repair business. My interest in Fretwork (that's what we have always called it) started when I was a young boy when I 'helped' my dad making toys and gifts on his Hobbies A1 treadle machine in those years after WW2 when toys were in short supply. I always had an interest in fretwork and especially the original Hobbies company in Dereham as my Grandfather had a shop selling Hobbies and Handicraft goods alongside wireless equipment back in the 1920's, my grandfather was brilliant at Fretwork and actually started his business by giving lessons in Fretwork to the local lads when it was all the rage post 1900. I still have many of his original Hobbies and handicraft patterns from those early days and for many years I have been a collector of Hobbies patterns, magazines and annuals. I also still have the Hobbies A1 treadle fretsaw and several Hobbies hand-frames from those early days, my one regret is that when he died he left a Hobbies imperial machine which I let go for scrap and I have always regretted it! I have a fairly decent workshop with all the usual woodworking machines installed and I own three Fretsaw/scrollsaw machines, being -: Hegner HM-2SV Diamond 18 Cheapo Taiwan made Wicks scrollsaw (which was given to me) The Hegner is my favourite, it's a lovely machine to use being both quiet running, powerful and accurate and is the machine that I most like using in my entire workshop. The Diamond is a well made saw, very powerful and will take any sort of blade, pinned or unpinned, hacksaw or even bit's of broken band-saw blades, however it is a bit aggressive and noisy, sadly the owner of the company that made the Diamond died and the company ceased trading. Sorry for rabbeting on about myself and I expect most will have stopped reading my scrawl by now but just in case Hello to everyone.

Not sure what you mean in that statement about not 100%. It is always a good idea to check that the blade is 90 degrees to the table top and the easiest way to do this is use a draftsman square. I have several of different size and angles and I rely on those alot for accuracy. Just make sure any time you check for blade tilt that the square is resting on the plate of the saw blade and not on a tooth. Also it is laying flat on the table and not on the throat plate which may be set a few fractions below the table and may not be level on all 4 corners. A fence should be dialed in on both the front and back edge to the blade and not the miter slots. As I mentioned I keep the back of my fence canted away from the back of the blade about the thickness of a dollar bill folded in half. Works for me. I then have to take this in consideration if I flip the fence to other side or else the wood will now be pinched on the back side of the blade and that is never good.

Mine is a left tilt. I go by that. I think this is all dependent on the saw you have.

When buying aftermarket fences you can get a right hand or left hand fence where the markers are printed on the rails or a tape is added. Most cabinet saws tilt left.

Look at Delta. 5 year warranty. Free shipping to Home Depot. I bought one after my DeWalt died several months ago. So far so good. bb

Well you wouldn't hate me if I were left handed would you? I'm not, by the way... Good input John.

I think it matters when doing a angle cut (blade at an angle other than 90 deg). I have most always had the fence on the right the miter gauge I use on the left.

sidetracked!! gotta call first think in the AM.

welp, if ya have to make a 30" rip and dont have 30" of fence on the left side but 30" on the right,it might matter.

My table saw has a little more space on the left than the right... but I use the right more often than not because that is what is more comfortable for me to do.. I've done cuts on either side.. and the left side is just awkward for me... so I hope I'm not supposed to be using it on the left.. Maybe I have a left handed table saw LOL.. I don't have a lot of experience it using table saws soo I'm looking forward to what the experts have to say on this... as I've always kind of wondered myself...

Mine can be used on either side but on the right side gives much more room 36 inches I think. I think the left is about 12.

I have also used mine on the right BUT I have what they call a right tilt saw. My understanding is the fense should be in the opposite side that the band tilts.

Memories!

So cuddly!

Lots of drilling and blade clamp work there. A true test of patience to achieve such a good piece.

Love the pug, great work Dick. Jeff

Awesome job Dick, am sure it will be cherished. Jeff

That looks great Dick, nice idea, thanks. Jeff

Different and clever!

I like the fake frame. It finishes the piece nicely. The idea could be used on a number of projects, thanks for sharing.

Great idea. I really like it. Great cutting as well.

Remember this was back in the day of two lane hi-ways with speed limits of 55 miles per hour. You had plenty of time to look for the signs and to read them as you pasted....

I am glad that you paused along the way to give "paws" to the frame; very ingenious trick!

Dick and I must be among the old guys to remeber them. Very nice "man-cave" decor!