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My first ever thing that I've made from start to finish. I made the pattern in Inkscape and I cut it with my new saw. Now I know it's not earth shattering to many of you, but to me it's great and I'm chuffed to mintballs with it. It has my daughter and grandson's names on it. Onwards and upwards as they say

Some of you have cut this also. It put 29.8 hours on the saw hour meter. jerry

Many years ago on a forum the discussion was about some simple item. I made the mistake of saying "I'll shoot down the shed this arvo and knock one up". I spent a lot of time convincing people that shed was not going to sprout bullet holes and no-one was getting pregnant.

Nice job Kevin. I do my inlay the opposite to Jim. I cut the piece to be inlaid so that it pushes in from the top. Just 2 of many ways to skin a cat I still stuff up the direction sometimes when cutting out centres such as O's etc

I just want to add my voice to this. I have been using a table saw for 40+ years. I am too experienced and too safety aware to use either a guard or a riving knife. I can pay attention 100% to everything and will not get hurt because I am just too good. NOT…..Foolish thoughts on my part. I almost always have the riving knife in my saw and only remove it for cutting dados. I use the guard when I am ripping. These things only make sense. I have been using a table saw a long time and probably use it every day in my shop. I study was done a few years ago by the CPSC and found the following – 1. There are about 38,000 emergency room visits for table saw accidents each year. 2. The majority of these happen while ripping a piece of wood. 3. 65% of these accidents happened with no riving knife 4. 66% happen with no blade guard. 5. 40% of these happen with a kick back. I worked in a very dangerous environment of a steelmaking shop where we melted scrap to make steel and the steel got up to over 3000 F. Safety was a primary concern but we had some many people who did not think they needed to wear all of their protective equipment or follow the rules because they had been there so long. In this environment, there was no choice but to follow the rules as there were consequences if you did not. In your own shop, you can do as you please. However, suggesting to people that it is OK to not use a riving knife or a guard because one has a lot of experience or can pay strict attention is foolhardy. But, I wish you guys good luck. I think it is really a bad idea to tell people that you can be safer by not using your riving knife or guards. Why would one say it is more dangerous to use a guard????? I probably will take a lot of heat for the above but that is OK. I am getting to be an old codger and my mind and reflexes are not what they used to be. I do not want to be one of the statistics at the emergency room. If you want to increase your risks, please keep doing what you are doing. By the way, a few years ago I bought a SawStop PCS cabinet saw because of the safety features. It is a great saw with the fit and finish and the accuracy. There are many who say that using such a saw will cause one to be less safe as you do not worry about getting injured. That is just not true….I bought it because getting older, I wanted another level of safety. I have no idea why anyone would not use their riving knife. Mine is not in the way and does not cause any issue except when cutting a groove or dado. To each their own and as I said Good Luck

Thank You, I feel my cutting is getting better. Grasping Inkscape was all down to Travis and his video lessons in the resources tab He's very good making things easy to follow. I just did what he did on screen. LOL. Thanks Travis xxx

A couple of years ago I was having trouble with my EX21 and asked about here on the Village, I said that I had the torch but it didn't help. After a lot of confusion I told the it was a flashlight not a hot flame torch. Lot of laughs later. Sorry Brenda for hijacking your post. Marg

I know the weather conditions you have and the timber available varies greatly from ours. What I use if I want the timber to be natural (not painted) is linseed oil thinned about 50% with turps. Three coats letting each one soak incompletely, about a day, prior to applying the next. Final coat of 100% linseed oil and let the dry completely. Then 1 couple of coats of exterior or marine grade polyurethane. I have done outside tables, chairs etc. using this method and they just keep on keeping on.

That is awesome Brenda, it is something to be proud of for sure. Don't worry I come out with Aussie stuff and sometimes the English get it but the Americans I have to spell it out for. Then other times no one gets it. Sorry guys don't mean any disrespect. Marg

This thread has gone a different direction and sometimes that is going to happen.First off from what I have read there is no one here telling anyone not to use a guard or a riving knife or any other safety equipment associated with any tool in the shop. There are some and I am one who do not use a guard on the tablesaw. I do many different cuts including dadoing with the same blade as I cut cross grain and rip with. As I said I use feather boards which prevent kickbacks and push sticks which keep my hands away from the blade and jigs to support small pieces cut on my saw. I am very comfortable and no not good enough not to use those devices. Now all those that claim they use a riving knife do you really or are you using a splitter ?? Big difference. Splitter will not prevent kick back as much as a riving knife. Those that use a guard do you also use the pawls with it to prevent kickback or did you remove them?? The stats were brought up about emergency room accidents and this is always a good one because it has been used by SawStop for years too. Did they and I say go back and ask give the stats for other tool injuries such as routers, bandsaws, chopsaws, mitersaws, radial arm saws was always a big one, power skil saws, nail guns, and the list goes on. You would be surprised. Saw Stop the biggest maker of the flesh activated stop is only about the money. They were challenged by Bosch who came out with a better designed but SawStop inventors wanted to corner the market and try to force all saw companies to purchase their technology and incorporate it in their saws, so they sued them. Greed is their motivation. Does the technology work, yes but is not the end all answer. Many times you need to shut that system off and you better hope you turned back on when you need it. It is like anything in life, taking responsibility for our own actions. What others do is their business. But we seem to need rules and regulations to protect us from ourselves and this will never end. Those that use those guards and equipment make sure you are also using dust masks, eye guards and hearing protection. Just keeping the fingers safe is not enough. Always read and understand the instructions that come with the tools. Use all safety guards that come with the tools. Use proper tool for job. If it does not feel right it probably is not. Work in a well lit area. Work when you are not tired or in a hurry. Use common sense. Work safe please. Now I am off my soap box.

Finally framed this one. Pattern by Ken Keyes. Stack cut two 1/8th inch BB ply, cut with Sawbird #2/0 spirals and frame from some cedar fence boards I had in the garage. Jeff

So just playing around in the shop and decided to try doing some inlay. I messed up though as I did several test cuttings to get the correct angle. Got real close and thought just a half degree would be about perfect. Problem was I moved it the wrong direction . Anyway it was a fun quick project and I can probably sand it down on the belt sander to get it matched up. This is about 1/16 inch off. Gotta say the tilting head on the Excalibur is a nice feature. This really isn’t my first inlay but I’ve only done a couple other pieces about 13 years ago on a crap saw so it wasn’t as enjoyable. Lol

I do not understand why anyone would want to do it!!! Truthfully, I don't even understand why I love to do it....

It helps me relieve stress

Ray you could make your money back just on the blade clamps providing they are in good shape. I had a Delta P 20 with the same type clamps and I loved them. The clamps are no longer available,( thanks to Delta),so I'm quite sure you would not have any problem selling them for more money then they are asking for the whole saw. As a matter of fact I like them so well I have a set installed on an old Craftsman I use for backup. Oh, by the way Rolf has one of the Delta clamps installed as the top clamp on his Hawk.

You will do well. I see on the Denver Craigslist there three Q3s ranging from $150 to $250. One is listed as a Type 2. I have heard only good things about them. Also a Hegner Multi-max 18 for $395. Looks like new but does not have the front tension release.

I don't have any experience with these personally.. My nephew has one that lighting took out the circuit board or motor.. and many parts are obsolete.. He loved the saw better than his DeWalt and would like to find another one.. ( just his preference and maybe his style of cutting ) I've read that a lot of people do not care for them as they are a more aggressive cutting saw.. I'd probably describe the cutting to a Ex saw that the blade instead of being perfectly straight up and down for fine fretwork is set to a more aggressive front to back motion.. Like I said.. I don't know how aggressive because I don't have any cutting experience on them.. That all said... I know many people that would love to find one for that price.. LOL I don't think they have any tuning ability for blade movement like the EX type saws too.. just thought I'd mention that..

Okay so the direction you cut will vary by which direction you tilt the saw.. I really can't explain it in words since I don't do this on a regular basis and really know what I'm doing well.. I just tilted the table and looked at what way I needed to cut.. Trial and error on some scrap will let know what way you want to cut.. and is needed anyway to see how much angle you need for the size blade and thickness of wood.. Also depends upon which piece you want the inlay to go into.. You can set the angle and cut in the direction so that the bottom piece fits into the top or the other way around.. that is dependent on what direction you cut.. I hope I explained this in some way that you and others can understand.. Because in all honesty I just play around on scraps until I find what is going to work for the piece I'm working with..

Ray, That's a pretty good saw. I have a type 1 and still use it, although I like the DeWalt 788 a bit better because the blade grips and tension adjust are a bit easier to use on the 788. A type 1 saw has a slow to start delay each time you turn it on, somewhat like the slow start feature in routers, etc.,but the speed control works very welland holds the set speed once it is running. I've been told that the speed control works better in the type 2 version. I was also told that the blade grips and tension adjustment are slightly improved in the type 2 version. Because of the rocking C frame design the blade has very little forward and back movement at the table level, but when cutting thicker materials, this rocking forward and back movement of the blade is more pronounced, but not usually a problem. It's this rocking motion that gives the saw a faster cutting action, and I prefer it when cutting larger and less delicate fret work. It's blade clamps and tension adjustment are radically different, but not bad. They are just different, and not as easy to use. This saw came out about 2 years before the DeWalt 788 was announced, and it was one of the top saws back then, but it's production life was short because of the introduction of the DeWalt 788. Again, I still like and use my Q3 Delta saw, although it isn't my preferred saw. I would be all over that one at the price being asked, since I could use another saw for my students and at that price, it's a steal, if it is working. If you want a faster cutting saw, this saw cuts faster than the Excalibur, DeWalt, and other saws available new today, especially if you are doing larger and less complicated fret work. It is every bit as accurate and will make a good second, back-up, or spare saw. that may just be ideal if you don't cut the tiny compound cut the tiny reindeer or cross ear rings like I do, but I have actually succeeded in making them on my Delta Q3 saw. It's just not as easy. If that saw was on my side of the Country, I would be after it myself. Charley

Two things: 1. I’m the wife, my house is dusty and I don’t care. 2. So when cutting the D would you start at the top of the D and go around the top to the right?

Thanks all for nice compliments. Actually, I cut 3 of them. 2 will be given to siblings & the other one has already gone to the Stephan Ministry at our Church. They are volunteer lay people that take a 50 hour course and visit people to come to the Church seeking moral guidance and a listening ear because they have trouble coping with the loss of a loved one, marital problems, financial difficulties, etc, etc. I give them a quite a few things. Hopefully it will briefly distract the minds of the people seeking help. jerry

No I do not know that is why I said there must have been something that was not made public. Believe me there are real woodworking forums that talk about this stuff all the time and this was hashed when it happened. No one seems to know why Bosch simply went away quietly. If you want to read all about this here is the link. There is also a link showing Bosch braking system. As I said there is not enough info about what happened exactly. http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/bosch-sawstop-embroiled-in-reaxx-table-saw-lawsuit/

I know where those numbers came from because you see them mentioned all the time. As I said the tablesaw gets mentioned because more people own that tool than most others. Radial arm saws at one time was up there in that catagory because they were a popular tool at one time. I won't get into the patent thing but will say this, something else went down with Bosch that is not public. Many times people have inventions and patent things and then someone comes along and tweaks something or changes one little thing and the next thing you know it is on the market and sold right next to the original. We see this all the time. Bosch came out with a better mousetrap that did not destroy the blade as sawstop saw does and the power actuator was a simple air cartridge that you can change out in a couple seconds. Totally different than what sawstop does. I have no idea what sawstop patent is but if it is possible to patent an idea I guess they did because that is all I see they had in common. The ability to sense skin and cause the blade to disappear in a blink of an eye. I wish Bosch would have fought it harder because they do have a better and cheaper mousetrap that would or could be incorporated less expensive on all saws and probably used on more tools also. Maybe when their patent runs out we will see more companies get into the technology category . As I said sawstop wanted the government to pass a law requiring all saws to incorporate their safety measure and they would have been king. That did not go as planned and that is why they make their own saw that is the most expensive on the market. Do not get me wrong the idea does work and is a great feature but Bosches was better because of the fact the blade is not destroyed when activated. That can be a huge expense. I know you can not put a $$ value on safety but manufacturers do. There are so many things in a shop that can hurt you. Again common sense reigns supreme and i think we are losing this gene. Just look at the drivers on the road today. Car manufacturers are also trying to protect us from ourselves. Accidents do happen be safe.

Hi Brenda, Well done for sure, Just a heads up - Now that you are a master at this, get ready for requests from others The learning curve may take a bit of time but once you get through it you realize that, "it's not so bad after all" Keep it fun and thanks for showing us Fab4

You did a beautiful job on your wordart plaque Brenda!!! No stopping you now! Thank you for letting us see your work, Bob

Your 1st time? Down Right Awesome work!!!

Thank you Bobbie!

It's very easy for me to get into a fix with other nationalities, as I don't know their lingo and type of humor .

No need to re- download your paper patterns Brenda, just scan them into your computer and do the same as you have been doing. Not sure what format you are using, but you will just have to save the image as that format, eg .jpg, ,gif etc.

This is a good and informative thread. I do not know very much about table saws except that I always use them as cautiously as I can. I do not have any safety extras on my saw but I am going to look and see if I have any to put in place. I have been involved with a couple of kick backs and they are no fun. Fortunately for me it caused no permanent problems or loss of any fingers or eyes. With that said, I am now going to try and get everything that is a safety item installed on my saw. Thanks for all the input here and the wisdom of using the safety units for the table saw. I understand that most people do not use the hold downs on the scroll saw but that said, one would want to cut off a finger on scroll saw, I do not see how it would even be possible to do so. Dick heppnerguy

@meflick G'day Melanie, There is no pattern for the boxes I make, I tend to just cut and assemble them as I go. For example the insert cut outs I drew directly onto the insert piece for the 1st time. I altered a few dimensions until I liked what I saw and away I went. The corners are mitred, I cut these on a Sliding compound mitre saw. The various colours of timber I edge joint and glue up prior to cutting. Once again I play it by ear as to what I think looks good. The top is just glued and clamped in-place and sanded flush. I cut the lid of on the table saw, making sure to mark the front so that it goes back in the right direction.

I've been using a table saw for 40 years. My first one rarely ever had the guard on it. After I got comfortable enough with it, I just left it off, even for routine cuts. I have always had a healthy respect for the TS and never had a fear of it. When I replaced my Craftsman with the Jet I currently own, I decided to make it a point to leave the guard & splitter in place. It was a better quality saw, so I quickly found that I could work with the guard & splitter installed and not feel as inconvenienced as I did with the Craftsman. The only time I remove it now is by necessity, when I'm cutting dadoes. My guard and splitter are one piece, so I can't leave it on for non-through cuts. I've never drawn blood with my TS. I've had a few kick backs, but never really had a close call. However, I'm a firm believer in using the safety features of the saw. Accidents happen to the most experienced users. The combination of respect for the tool, proper technique and use of the safety devices is really the best way to prevent accidents. OK, I'm down off the soapbox for good this time, I promise.

Kevin, very nice, did you design these patterns, also really like your military clock patterns, where did you get them, or did you design them also, RJ

I fully understand what Bill said but, like you, my first table saw, bought used, was a 12" commercial Craftsman. It had been used by a home builder. He had tossed both items also. I learned to work without either and I also learned RESPECT for my saw. I have seen what it can do. My neighbor used both on his saw and still managed to nip the ends off 3 of his fingers. I take guards off of every too I have that came with them. I also figure out a way around trigger locks. Sorry Bill, but that's just the way it is for me. And now I see I'm not alone.

Very good. Letters are more difficult than people may realize. Small errors show up very readily. I don't see any in your piece. Well done! "Chuffed to mintballs" That's a new one on me. I presume that's a local colloquialism meaning you are pleased?

While I can relate to what you say and there was a time when I did very much the same thing, I have to strongly disagree with the philosophy. The guard is a physical obstacle between the blade and your hand. It's your last line of defense, (unless you have a SawStop). Most table saw accidents occur in the blink of an eye. Often the victim doesn't even know exactly what happened. Having a guard covering the spinning blade can mean the difference between a bad scare and a visit to the ER and perhaps even permanent disability. Trust me, it isn't worth it. The riving knife or splitter works to prevent binding, which is a common cause of kickback. Removing both seems like you are asking for trouble. I respectfully encourage you and all others to either learn how to live with the guard and splitter on your saw or upgrade to something more functional for you. The woodworking forums are full of guys who used a table saw for years without the safety devices, with no problems. Then one day, disaster strikes. Please reconsider your current methodology. OK, I'm climbing down off of my soapbox now. You may resume your regularly scheduled programming.

very nice

Very nice. Marg

A Steve Good Pattern. (I changed it a little)

Looks Kevin. There is so much military things you can make and they all sell well. I will be trying the retired military route in the future and see how that plays. Thanks for showing.

They look Fantastic!!

Nicely done Kevin. Thanks for sharing these with us. DW

I do a lot of inlay and find that to avoid confusion as to which direction to cut I just always keep the image I want, to the high side of the blade. I tilt the table down on the left so I keep the image to the right of the blade with the wood to be inlaid, on the underside. This is very important when doing lettering.

Good morning Katie. This is a crude little kangaroo I made from instructions from "Instructibles." These little critters can be seen on You Tube searching for walking toy animals or something like it. They are fun little buggers and little kids would love them. They walk down an inclined plane.

I convert all my blackline patterns to redline. Judy Gale Roberst spoiled me. To make a pattern with a redline image, I use Irfanview -- https://www.irfanview.com/ Irfanview is a freebie graphic viewer. it allows you to view, crop, enlarge, reduce, and even change the color of graphic images. When I scan a pattern into the computer, I always save the pattern as a jpeg. Although Irvanview will read and display other format, also. BUT - it doesn't do PDF. Once you have Irfanview loaded, load your pattern jpeg into Irfanview. Click on the Images menu in the tool bar then click on Color Corrections or type a [Shift]-G. When the Color Corrections window opens, find the Red (R) slider button under Color Balance. Move the slider all the way to the right and click the OK button. You'll see that your pattern has turned red. Save the red image, so you can use it later and then print your red pattern. Have fun with it.

I am putting that on my something new to do, new year list. I goes on every year along with 3 or 4 other things, I will do it one day and shock myself. Marg

Hello Brenda, What you do in Inkscape is set the stroke to red and the fill to light grey...so you don't use too much red ink...if you see what I mean, You can alter the red stroke by hovering over the number of the stroke with your Mouse and setting a higher number if you want o.k. Bob P.S. To alter your patterns you would need to reload them into Inkscape to edit them...if you had done them in Inkscape

Must confess, good lighting or not I find watching a black blade work on black lines doesn't sit well with my eyes.

You might check the library here. Somewhere there is an article on how to do it in Gimp. It can't be too hard to do because I use to do it. I haven't taken the time to try to figure it out since I got a Mac computer. I liked red lines with gray instead of black for the cut out sections. I bet Bob can tell how. He does a lot of his patterns that color.