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I really do genuinely think you are all awesome. I tried cutting a more (for me) intricate pattern today, and boy, oh boy, the concentration, the undoing the blade and putting once again through those teeny tiny holes, the amount of times I have to adjust my magnifying glasses so that I can focus. For all you who do this over and over again, I take my hat off to you all. I have only done 5 letters in 2 sessions and I'm shattered.

Just finished these up. Actually finished cutting them on Sunday, but some other stuff (Life) got in the way so I had to spread out my defeathering, smoothing, fixing of one busted bridge, painting (ran out of white spraypaint and had to run to the store), and framing (ran out of poplar 1x2 and had to run to the store again....got extras this time!) after work this week. Frames are done, stained, and drying now, I just briefly put Yoda and Vader in to take pics. Gotta say....I'm pretty happy with em. Or....chuffed as mintballs, as some would put it.

What’s a good finish for live edge fretwork? I cut this out today and plan to give it away in a drawing later this month or next month. Not sure what type of backer I’ll be using yet. Plan to drill two holes at the top and use Suede rope as a hanger maybe. Anyway looking for finishing info. This live edge was cut from trees from my neighbors yard a couple years ago ( he has a hobby Sawmill from the 1800’s and fires it up from time to time ) . He typically gives me a lot of slabs to play with and I have lots of it. Lol I tried to peel off the bark on the one side but it’s not coming off. Kind of wish I’d have left it on the other side but was too wide to go through my planer. Any finishing tips, backer tips, or other suggestions welcome as this is just a play around piece so I’m trying for unique one if a kind piece.

Finally framed this one. Pattern by Ken Keyes. Stack cut two 1/8th inch BB ply, cut with Sawbird #2/0 spirals and frame from some cedar fence boards I had in the garage. Jeff

Сhristmas ball (4 layers), 3mm (1/8 inch) MDF (medium density fiberboard) pattern available at www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

Thank you Grampa!

You know I posted on my personal Facebook page the pictures of the military clocks and sold 4 of them so far. Wanted to give another opinion for those that are on a budget. So today I bought this set of patterns and cut them. They are now out drying after dipping in Danish Oil. Picture taken straight off the saw so they do look much better now. I’ll get some better pictures in a few days. Once they dry and have the ribbon on them. Also cut 3 more of the Airforce clocks for the Facebook customers lol.

He does not make sawdust. I wouldn’t mind explaining how to use a broom if he seems to want to know,

Lol Kevin it was kind of a rhetorical question . But I do appreciate ur explanation. My opinion is the shipping companies cater to amazon and bigger companies ( which I understand why they do) but I still like to complain about it lol. Maybe ur right but I highly doubt u can ship that saw for 70 bucks. Maybe if you were shipping I t ur neighbor. I know I shipped a small bench for a child that I built so I can be disassembled for cheaper shipping. I forgot what it weighed but definitely not as much as that saw. And that cost me 70 bucks to go two states over. My wife just had to ship a piece of luggage to a customer for work cuz of a screw up. That cost 200$. I know there are ways to use certain boxes and little tricks. To get some deals. It doesn’t really matter anyway. I should just be thankful I could get a saw shipped to me so cheaply and shut my mouth lol.

1/4" underlay. Pattern plagiarized from Smithsonian web site. Just waiting for the feds to knock on my door.

I love cutting intricate fretwork. With some good tunes on my Bluetooth headset, I get into the “zone” and just cut along.

The fun for me is the challenge of learning new techniques. Right now, I'm learning to do compound cutting. I have a plan for a votive holder/candy bowl type thing that requires cutting 8 side pieces that are compound cuts. I practiced in some very hard scrap wood and now, I finally cut out the pieces today to get started on it. The compound pieces are red cedar and the other parts are walnut and red cedar. Should be fun. But, my point, and there really is one, as I was practicing the other day, I realized how intense I was and my jaws were very tight. I had to physically sit back, stretch my neck and shoulders and I rubbed my cheeks and jaw muscles. I had no idea how tied up I was and I was really concentrating on my cutting. This hobby is about way more than just cutting stuff out. It's an art form and I want to be as good at as you folks all are. There, I made my point.

I do not understand why anyone would want to do it!!! Truthfully, I don't even understand why I love to do it....

Okay so the direction you cut will vary by which direction you tilt the saw.. I really can't explain it in words since I don't do this on a regular basis and really know what I'm doing well.. I just tilted the table and looked at what way I needed to cut.. Trial and error on some scrap will let know what way you want to cut.. and is needed anyway to see how much angle you need for the size blade and thickness of wood.. Also depends upon which piece you want the inlay to go into.. You can set the angle and cut in the direction so that the bottom piece fits into the top or the other way around.. that is dependent on what direction you cut.. I hope I explained this in some way that you and others can understand.. Because in all honesty I just play around on scraps until I find what is going to work for the piece I'm working with..

Last batch of comic book covers for the show. Now i move to traditional cuttings. 45hrs a week at my job and 30+ hrs in the shop.

Well, I went and bought some blades today from America.... After much listening and reading about scrolling, the one thing that keeps popping up is 'Flying Dutchman' blades. So I took the plunge and bought 3 kinds. Ultra Reverse #5,, Scroll Reverse #2 and Jewellers #1. Not sure I've enough experience to truly know what to do with them, but, nothing ventured nothing gained. The Jewellers blade is purely because I've just found out that you can cut shapes into coins and thought ''I've got to try that''.. Jack of all Trades, Master of None as my mother used to say However, having put in my order, I now feel as though I'm almost a "proper" scroller and to top it all, my hubby has said he'll tilt my saw

Just finished up this Wisconsin Badgers Led lighted sign.....had a friend that is a Wisconsin fan....it's for him.....1x4's for the back with chamfered edges for the pin stripes.....1x6 for the "W"......all hand painted.....LED bright white strip lights wired to back of it......comments always welcomed...ty

More scrollwork for the policeman

My first ever thing that I've made from start to finish. I made the pattern in Inkscape and I cut it with my new saw. Now I know it's not earth shattering to many of you, but to me it's great and I'm chuffed to mintballs with it. It has my daughter and grandson's names on it. Onwards and upwards as they say

Pegas is a Swiss brand, so there should be a dealer somewhere in the EU that can help you.

If you used Red loc-tite.. I doubt the set screws moved.. Red is for permanent or for large bolts.. I use the blue which is for a tight hold but will move with tools but not vibrate out etc.. I'll be curious what you find out though.. so many variables of what could cause this from worn slots where the lower blade holder sits.. to roll pins that holds the upper clamp to the arm or even the bearings at the back of the saw... Also can be a bad bearing in the connecting rod ( my 226 did this) .. that goes from the motor to the lower arm.. I took the bolt out of the arm and found that upper end bearing was dry of grease and stiff moving.. funny how that little bit of drag caused that blade to get that blur look.. Good luck and let us know what you find..

A used scanner should be easy to find. Most printers now include a scanner so folks have sold off their stand alone units. Do you have any kind of a site like our "craigslist"? I find everything I want on there.

Not sure I could cope with music, I like to be able to 'hear' the saw, but there again I don't have music whilst I'm driving as I like to hear the engine. Perhaps I'm just a neurotic old biddy.

OK to answer a few questions. Kevin you probably used a better word to describe the flutter "BLURRY" I rarely ever touch that back lever wedge. Only when I use small jewelers blades The tension on the blade is dead on Blade sits in top clamp as always I tried to nip a fraction off a blade to add even more tension without changing any settings but that did nothing so I am sure about tension. Now when I did the square test I had the arm all the way up and this gives me a look at alot more blade than if it was lower. I will try in lower position but will need a small square which I do have. When the saw is running and looking at the blade it is blurry as opposed to a straight line which it use to be and is on my 226. AS I said I have an advantage to compare side by side. My concern is side to side not front to back. The most logical answer is not enough tension and the blade will flutter but this is definetly not the case here. No vibration is evident. Nothing has moved as I use it. I will take a block of wood and paint it white and place behind the blade and move the arm up and down and watch to see if the blade favors one side or other as it goes through motion. It should travel in a straight line. I may take a washer and insert in the top clamp to tighten that play up and readjust lower blade holder. Maybe that has worn some with all the pierce cutting I do on that saw. It seems to have the same play as the 226 but we could be talking ever so slight measurements. I use red loctite on set screws when I get them set exactly so doubt they moved. I did change out the lower clamp and that did not fix the problem. I will take a closer look at top clamp. To be continued.

Yeah, I'm looking forward to hearing if this changes in the up / down stroke at all.. If the set screws have moved.. the blade can still be square in one of the other position at the table level.. I once had this sort of issue.. and it turned out to be the blade was off when the arms were raised all the way up.. turned out to be the lower set screw had moved lightly.. but the saw running the blade would look blurry so to speak.. If the blade is square in both up and down position.. and still doing this.. it could actually be bearing or thrust washers Also that back wedge gets worn and sill change the tension of the blade during the stroke and really only shows up when the saw is running.. I've sharpened my wedge using some sandpaper and a flat surface.. BUT.. you can only do that so many times before the arm where that wedge rides needs to be re-machined..

Could you describe the flutter a bit more. Is it side to side, front to back? Did you check for squareness at both extremes of arm travel....ie up and down. Another thing might be to check the blade where it come through the table. Check position side to side and front to back with the arm all the way up, down and in between. Does it stay the same or move around. Given that you find no play in the arm or motor, maybe something is bent or out of alignment. Lastly, is the flutter caused by vibration and not due to some kind of alignment issue. Good Luck

So I recently showed you guys a rose I had cut out but hadn't finished it yet. Well here are the before and after. It really shows how important finishing your work is! This is on mahogany I believe with a clear poly spray applied

make no mistake foxfold- we were all greenhorns at this at one time. very few jump on a scrollsaw and "get it." myself, i had many times i had to walk away from the scrollsaw and that can still happen. theres still times i end up just makin big pieces of wood smaller and they end up in the firepit, but it doesnt happen as often as 13 years ago. i made some seriously fancy kindling back then. even after 13 years and hundreds of hours on the scrollsaw, im still just practicing.

Very nice Dick,

Run across this pattern I had from way back in the day.. I've cut it before a few years ago.. thought it was time to make another one for the website..

Melanie, When I make my next one, I'll try and remember to take a few photo's as I go. I'll post them up, may help a little.

thanks for the offer! not a bad roadtrip to me.i used to live in west branch. was diagnosed stage 3c metastatic melanoma in '06. care was at U of M cancer center Ann Arbor. 300 mile round trip. did it many,many,many times over the next 2 1/2 years. then every 3 months for a few years. plus, lots of roadtrips around northern michigan over the years. tunnel of trees out of harbor springs was at least every fall and 10 hours driving( usually riding on the scooter but occasionally in the car) roundtrip but well worth it. it would be a great reason to head that way and hit up the gilmore museum that ive been wanting to go to for quite a few years. buuut, im gonna be working between raindrops this weekend putting new windows in a family friends house.

I use wipe on poly, semi gloss, on only the live edge. One of those sponge brushes will get in all the cracks

Great work and great looking frames as well. Marg

I guess I gotta get me some of those.

Nicely done. Thanks for sharing them with us. DW

look great, nice cuts. jim

I don’t know about any pattern but Steve Good did a demo on you tube I believe, RJ

I just revisited this post to see your project and saw the post about how you made the corners. Thanks for the tip as well as thanks for sharing your beautiful present for your sister. God Bless! Spirithorse

It helps me relieve stress

I looked at the Delta when my DW788 died a couple month ago the only problem i see is it doesn't stay in the set speed. It's not as aggressive as the DW788 which is a + and i do like the arm staying up . I will see how it holds up compared with the DW788 which was 3 major breakdowns in a 4 year period.. and it was a $100 chiefer and I have 6; month with no interest IKE.

When I inlaid the name Derek I start the D at the bottom center of the D and the rest I started at the very end of the word and when moving to the R I just cut across to it and it is not noticed.

I feel it relaxing and at the same time challenging.

Bob, Bob, Bob, Thanks, friend!

Might be a drive but I have my stock clamp that doesn't have much time on it if you need to get to making dust before the Pegas arrives...

Throw back to my SERE instructor days.

before being invited to the con i had done about 4 comic books, 2 photos, and one poster. for the show i have done 34 comic books, 2 posters, and about 60 traditional scrollings. also in the pic the capt. America plays "america the beautiful" and the star wars plays the "star wars" theme and han solo's helmet lights up. i used the mechanism from some musical greeting cards.

Burma Shave was a shaving cream for men. During the late 1940's to maybe about 1960's, Burma Shave made a series of wooden signs that were placed beside the highways of the United States. Each sign was a part of a funny saying that made travelers want to read them for the humor. The very last of the series of signs always read, "Burma Shave" and looked like the sign posted by Rocky. The signs were spaced so that it would take about a minute of driving to get from the first sign to the Burma Shave sign. Here is an example of one that I remember vividly. sign one: It seems as when Sign 2: you try to pass Sign 3: The guy in front Sign 4: Steps on the gas Sign 5: Burma Shave Often all the passengers in the car would sat out loud... "Burma Shave" when they go to the final sign Now you know a little more about the signs that us older people remember so well. Of course they mean nothing to the younger set. Dick heppnerguy