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Many thanks to @multitom " Mahendra " for the great pattern of Daniel Craig. I added my touch and have completed 2. Cut with a FD#2 new spiral and FD #2 ultra reverse from 3mm Hoop Pine ply. Framed with 42 x 19 Pine stained walnut and Rosewood. Finished with 3 coats of 30% gloss lacquer. Cutting A3 size.

I needed a new sign for the football season at my house......the "C" is made out of 2 templates cut from a 1x8 joined together with pocket holes.....bear face is 1/4" ply......Comments always appreciated. TY. Dan

Getting ready for my show tomorrow, car loaded up and ready to go. It is an outdoor show hopefully the weather holds up, will be on the cloudy side and a chance of sprinkles. It is a really big show and a lot of vendors, and only two other scrollers beside me. I usually do real good at this show.

Just finished up this Wisconsin Badgers Led lighted sign.....had a friend that is a Wisconsin fan....it's for him.....1x4's for the back with chamfered edges for the pin stripes.....1x6 for the "W"......all hand painted.....LED bright white strip lights wired to back of it......comments always welcomed...ty

Have had this clock for over a year. Mix that with a scrolled portrait and the guts of a musical greeting card and you get this. VID_20181006_073311.mp4

Kevin I used the red because back then it was all I had and really did not know the difference between the 4 different colors that loctite offers. But do now and will use blue from now on. Well I did some investigating today and here is what I found. First I put a block of wood behind the blade and turned on and I drew a straight line down Placed behind the blade and watched the blade flutter. I could see this with the naked eye but with the block of wood really shows up. So I went to the 226 and did the same thing. I have not used that saw all year this year so had to clean the table top off as I used for blade storage and small wood pieces that you hate to throw out. We all have those. Put the block behind that blade and it was as true as can be. Dead on. So I took the blade out of the 220 with the bottom holder and switched to the 226. Well the flutter showed up now on the 226. I put the 226 holder on the 220 and sure enough the flutter was gone. Now I had mentioned earlier I switched the blade clamp on the 220 when it all started. I had 2 that I constantly use for that saw. I have 2 that I leave with the 226. So I figured it has to be the blade clamps but what could it be. Well I compared the 2 bad ones with the 2 good ones and what I found was the roll pins have distorted ever so slightly from constantly sliding in and out of the bottom clamp. But what I think the real damage came from is when you insert a new blade and you use the hole on the upper arm that is designed to hold the clamp steady as you tighten. Well I believe all this time the constant torque put on that roll pin caused it to deflect and bend ever so slightly. And being I constantly change those 2 clamps because I like to preload one when I really get into scrolling production wise. That is why they both are bad. So the outcome is I am using the 2 clamps from the 226 and I will order a couple new clamps along with a couple more quick release levers for future use. Yesterday I could not even get close to a small piece or it would just jump at it and cut it off. Or we all know how to plane with the edge of a blade, well I could not dare do that. Had a couple mishaps that I was able to cover up but put a halt to the sawing because that Navy Plaque has so many delicate cuts. Today finished cutting it with no problem. Huge difference. Chalk this one up to the knowledge bank. I probably could just get some roll pins and push those out. May ask them if they have those too. Thanks everyone for the help. I am back in business.

Сhristmas ball (4 layers), 3mm (1/8 inch) MDF (medium density fiberboard) pattern available at www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

It sounds like the tension wedge that is way back in the upper arm is stuck. Either that or the tension lever itself is bound up. Either one is easy to fix if you are at all handy with tools. There are some great videos on youtube on how to disassemble the whole saw. It probably is a matter of taking it apart and cleaning and greasing the pieces that make up the tension mechanism. If you were closer to me, I'd do it for you. But sadly not to be. Try taking the blade out of the clamps and lifting up the upper arm. When you do that, are you able to move the tension lever a bit more? The mechanism is made up of a rod that connects to the lever and runs the length of the upper arm to a wedge clear at the back. That wedge slide back and forth to "lift" against the arm and put tension on the blade. Hard to explain. I can see it in my head but hard to put into words.

I just use the cheap HF dust collector and have it mounted outside the wall of my shop. Two inch diameter tube sucks everything including small chips. Sometime I shall divert some of the suction to the top of the saw. But not today.

The latest generation of Hawks the G4 has different blade holders. Now that I know this can be a problem I know what to look for if this happens again. I had these clamps for a long time so no big deal getting new ones. It is actually very easy to change blades so I have no problem with this system. Just never would have guessed of this problem but as I said I was lucky to have another sitting next to each other to compare. Not so good for those that may run into this problem and not have this situation. Hopefully this info can now be helpful and referenced in case it comes up again.

Thanks John. I also have a 220 Hawk. I do not have that problem but will store that information for future possible use.

Just finished these up. Actually finished cutting them on Sunday, but some other stuff (Life) got in the way so I had to spread out my defeathering, smoothing, fixing of one busted bridge, painting (ran out of white spraypaint and had to run to the store), and framing (ran out of poplar 1x2 and had to run to the store again....got extras this time!) after work this week. Frames are done, stained, and drying now, I just briefly put Yoda and Vader in to take pics. Gotta say....I'm pretty happy with em. Or....chuffed as mintballs, as some would put it.

The Steve Good site just posted a video on coin cutting. Looks far easier then I would have expected as far as the actual cutting part. Not sure about the skills needed to be successful Practice, practice...as with all things.

If you're going to do coins, talk with Hotshot. I know he monitors the forum here, but you can catch him on the SSWC forum, also. He is a coin cutting master. some of the things he has done with coins is just amazing.

Yeah I also know the in Jeff bezos book the everything store. They were losing billions on shipping yeah billions with a b. Lol I guess he knew what he was doing though cuz last I heard he makes 13 million dollars an hour 24 hours a day.

never mind, you know about Niqua blades.

While I agree with you 100%.. I also know that time is money to some people and you can spend $10-15 on tubing and an hour trying to figure out your set-up etc.. Not sure what some of you all charge or make per hour at your job.. but for me an hours time is that $50... so then you ask yourself.. do i play around and try to make something... or do i just pend $50 and be done with it...

Yep, I have some Niqua blades, I was just curious. The FD blades only cost me £13.50 including postage for 3 doz blades which works out at around 37p a blade so I thought it was worth it. I'm a woman, I do these things

No you are not! I'm the same, music for a little while is okay, but it wears me out to have it going very long. And I am not an "old biddy".... I may be a grouchy old man..... but I am what I am. No apologies.... I don't have the radio going when I am traveling either,,,, my wife's snoring is enough extra noise!!

John. You have to go into this type of fret work thinking, only one hole at a time. Eventually to come to the last hole and then... " You did it". I saw go for it, you will be glad you did Dick heppnerguy

More scrollwork for the policeman

Thanks for all the good luck wishes - they worked. Sold four intarsia pieces and two segmented bowls, and brought home advances on two commissions. An awesome day. Hope everyone else was as lucky.

Kevin, it's all about the piping and the size of pipes to each machine. There is a whole thing in the engineering of the system in order to get what you want/need at each machine. I had one of the cheaper vacs. It was a one horse/110 unit. I dedicated it to my Unisaw back in the day. It did a great job. I bought a fine filter bag for it that did a much better job of filtering the dust out. Anyway, if you take the 4" hose that usually hooks to these units and pipe it down to what you need at each machine it works great. I have the Fein that I bought used and have it necked down to 1" pvc at my Dewalt. I bought the flex line stuff that has a funnel shaped nozzle. Both above and below the table. It works great. The next one I build for the EX is going to be 1 1/2 pvc and I'll try necking it to 1" and see what happens. There is a ton of suction at the nozzles and that is where most of the noise comes from. I don't even hear the Fein in the back ground.

nice job

Is this the bigger roll around dust collector machine? or the smaller ones? I have the bigger roll around style that I have hooked to the planer and bandsaw... amazing how much sawdust comes from the bandsaw when resawing LOL.. Anyway I ask because I've read how these like I have are great for sawdust but not the real fine stuff.. so just wondering what you have and your experience with how well it does.. I keep thinking about piping it to my saw and seeing with my own eyes how well it does.. seems like if it had enough to suck those bigger chips from the planner it's work good with the fine dust.. That'd save a lot of money from buying the Festool.. other than I want to use the Festool for my sanders too.. LOL.. but until I get the extra funds.. I could use the HF machine.. if it works good.

Thank you!! Will try that

Nicely done. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

I guess my set up is very much like JT's.. I clean every day sometimes twice a day.. I ran my shop vac on my EX via foot switch just as a test to see how it goes..

Not yet.... I choose by composition instead of subject. Thank you for the comment.

Ray it appears I have given you bad information on the blade clamps. Charley talks about having to use a allen wrench to adjust the blade clamps for different thickness blades. Delta must have changed that feature on the newer style clamps. The newer model clamps have a little knob on the side on the clamp for making the adjustment, which is much more convenient. Sorry.

I have my dust ctrl setup beneath my saw with a pvc fitting and small fan - seems to work fine for me. The $50 price tag on that thing doesn't seem high for someone that needs it

Thanks @JTTHECLOCKMAN I have squared the blade as best I can - it is 90 degrees to table top However, there is still an off cut as mentioned that I've not been able to reduce or remove. I've posted this in other wood working forums and for the type of word I do, this is an acceptable offset allowance

All ya need is a Martini,Shaken not stirred ,Awesome job!!Beautiful Frame.

Wow that is alot of wear on a vac if you have on foot switch with saw. I know myself I do a ton of pierce cutting and that thing would be on and off way too much. The Fein vac is very quiet but pricey. I do not use a vac but use a dust mask and have a air cleaner going to suck small particles out of the air. My larger tools I have a dust collector hooked to each tool. I do all my sanding outdoors so that is not a problem but if I have to, I do have a downdraft table I can sand on hooked to dust collector. After each session I shop vac all small pieces and any dust around saw so I am ready for next day. Leave the air cleaner on for about an hour after I am done and shut off later. I have been meaning to put a timer on that thing but like everyone time is not easy to find even when retired. Shop vacs are extremely noisy. Mine the bearing is going on it and it whines even louder. That thing owes me nothing. It is an old Sears model from many years ago. Have the air blower hose blowing dust away from me and any dust that is under saw who cares. I vac that at end of day.

Nicely done!

Very nicely done Dan. You are getting real good at these signs. Thanks for sharing it with us. DW

As mentioned by another, my shop vac is plugged into my foot switch so it's on and off with my saw. I need to enclose it in something to deaden the sound as it is a bit annoying.

Neat looking project, thanks for the pics. Jeff

Good luck to both of you with your shows. Hope you sell out.

Me too. Where are you? I'm doing Market day, in Waynesboro, PA. Same weather conditions.

Lovely job Smitty .Have you thought of putting a white backer behind it to eliminate the vertical stripes running through it.

Several people have posted their home made systems on the forum that work really well. One advantage that the home made systems have is they have larger tubes with greater airflow. I have included a picture of mine. However, this is a good solution if you do not have time to build your own. I think it is a better solution than using a fan to blow the dust away.

My first impression was ... a bit pricey for a tube. But I understand if you wouldn’t want to make one and rather spend ur time scrolling. What I don’t get is all you guys that use dust collection when scrolling. How do u run a shop vac that long ? and how do you put up with the noise? I use dust collection on my other tools but it only run for a few minutes at a time. I would think you must burn up a shop vac pretty quick.

He does not make sawdust. I wouldn’t mind explaining how to use a broom if he seems to want to know,

And if you think about it, so do lawyers and doctors. Just practicing.

Just for fun.. since I don't ship large stuff much any more.. and I know they've raised prices considerably..since I used to mail tractor parts.. cost for non commercial rate to ship 70lb from MI to California is $138.. Guess I've been out of the loop on heavy stuff for many years. as about 2007 ish I quit selling parts.. Now I have a small commercial discount from that price compared to most because of business and I believe my discount is 10%... Also... it's my understanding that many BIG business just pay a yearly premium and the shipping companies have to ship all they mail out.. contract deal.. In reality.. they might be shipping it free if they've sent a lot of products.. I do see what you're saying though.. and yes.. very happy to get free shipping on things I buy.. Studies show that many people shop online and only looking at the FREE shipping option.. even though many times the item might actually cost more over all than someone selling a lower priced item with cheap shipping... This is something I'm planning to add to my website soon.. Raising the price enough to cover shipping and offer free shipping.. since that is what the majority of shoppers look for.. so much so that many places.. eBay Etsy etc have a shipping filter to filter search results to only show items with free shipping, LOL.. so many people use that filter for free shipping. that it's starting to become the standard for search now.. so those that charge shipping are getting the last of the pages in search results.. most people that do a search only look 1-4 pages before rephrasing their search to get different results if they can't find exactly what they are looking for.. JUST A FYI .. not that you care, but someone might find that FYI informational. LOL That saw is such a good deal I'm surprised you not ordering one..

I'm with John on this one. I've never used Polyshades, but the concept alone doesn't appeal to me. You are, in effect, adding layers of color with each coat and will not get the same effect you would get if you stained, then topcoated as separate operations. It may have a place and serve a function for some, but not for me. I know finishing can be a chore for many folks, but it really is not a place for short cuts.

make no mistake foxfold- we were all greenhorns at this at one time. very few jump on a scrollsaw and "get it." myself, i had many times i had to walk away from the scrollsaw and that can still happen. theres still times i end up just makin big pieces of wood smaller and they end up in the firepit, but it doesnt happen as often as 13 years ago. i made some seriously fancy kindling back then. even after 13 years and hundreds of hours on the scrollsaw, im still just practicing.

That is awesome Brenda, it is something to be proud of for sure. Don't worry I come out with Aussie stuff and sometimes the English get it but the Americans I have to spell it out for. Then other times no one gets it. Sorry guys don't mean any disrespect. Marg

Not sure what you mean in that statement about not 100%. It is always a good idea to check that the blade is 90 degrees to the table top and the easiest way to do this is use a draftsman square. I have several of different size and angles and I rely on those alot for accuracy. Just make sure any time you check for blade tilt that the square is resting on the plate of the saw blade and not on a tooth. Also it is laying flat on the table and not on the throat plate which may be set a few fractions below the table and may not be level on all 4 corners. A fence should be dialed in on both the front and back edge to the blade and not the miter slots. As I mentioned I keep the back of my fence canted away from the back of the blade about the thickness of a dollar bill folded in half. Works for me. I then have to take this in consideration if I flip the fence to other side or else the wood will now be pinched on the back side of the blade and that is never good.