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Just finished this A3 size. Cut from 3mm hoop pine ply. framed with 42 x 19 pine stained jarrah. 3 coats of 30% gloss laquer. I used a FD New Spiral #2 and ultra reverse #2

I live in San Diego and we have a number of cabinet maker type specialty wood store in the area that sell it in 5 x 5 sheets. Great prices too. If you live in a bigger town try to look for these specialty places if possible. Last time I paid about $11 or so for a 5x5 sheet of bb 1/8" Of course the thicker sizes cost more.

I just finished this Alex Fox pattern. BB with natural oil mounted on Red Oak stained with espresso. This one had some (for me) intense bridging.

I think acetone will unlock the lok-tight.

i think this one will be a keeper john,unless i get a realy nice offer for it..lol

Got it going!! Can't believe how loose some of the screws in the motor were! Several turns to tighten them! You'd think in a machine that is made for making vibrations they'd but some lock washers on them! The 694 was a bit different from yours Larry but it was still pretty straight forward. Thank you again for your tips and tech!!!

You can count on great help from dedicated members every time!Thank you LarryEA

hi all, ive been away from the forum for a bit,but my recent piece i thaught deemed worthy of sharing, its a light of the world piece,designed by the late dirk boelman, made from MAHOGANY,ASH,PINE,AND PLY,

Michaels opened two new stores in my area, and they don't carry the Baltic Birch wood anymore. Now has anyone ordered it online,if so who would you order it from and has a good reputation, I was looking on Amazon and there are some good deals. Any info would be helpful.

Similar to what my findings have been.. and yes I use that same filter on my box fan.. actually probably more efficient than the ceiling mounted unit.. My DC needs a better bag as it is inside the shop.. That said.. I wear my dust mask about any time I'm in the shop.. Again that said.. I see fine dust landing on my tool boxes etc.. so there is dust floating around in the shop.. I clean this dust up a few times a year.. and would like to eliminate more of it.. If it's landing on stuff.. then there is room for improvement.. also if it's landing on stuff.. any time you go into the shop.. and just move.. it'll stir up that dust even though you cannot see it.. doesn't mean it's not getting stirred up. so in reality.. one should have a mask on at all times in the shop even when you're not really " woodworking" ... i work on my cars and things in the shop quite often.. and so I notice this fine dust maybe more than others do that strictly have their shop as a wood shop.. The point I make here is.. this fine dust is what is harmful to you.. and you don't really even have to be woodworking to need the mask.. or need much better filtration... much better filteration is something I'm going to be doing..mainly because I don't want to wear a dust mask to work on my " other projects " ... also be nice to only have to do a deep cleaning only a few times a year rather than every week or so..

I get it from amazon, no problem to date

The term "Furnace filter" leaves a lot of room for discussion. As do the terms "1 micron, 5 micron, 10 micron" that we get from the box air filtrator makers. While 1 micron is good enough and 5 micron is definitely not. When I couldn't get outer filters for my Jet AFS-400 (similar to the Wen, Powertec, and Shopfox), I made a frame to fit the outer filter space and went to Lowes and bought 3M Filtrete filters which I cut to fit. See the pic. The reason I got those filters was the research I did about filter capabilities. The 3M filters rated well in the MERV ratings as shown on the chart here - https://www.iallergy.com/pages/compare-3m-filtrete-filters The filters I use are the Micro Allergen Defense (3rd column from the left) with a MERV rating of 11. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency advises that filters with MERV ratings of 9 to 12 are almost as effective as true high-efficiency particulate absorption, or HEPA, filters when it comes to removing particles from indoor air that are hazardous to your health, which makes them ideal for homes with occupants who have COPD, allergies, asthma and other respiratory conditions. These high-quality filters trap particles as small as one micron, including Legionella and humidifier dust. The same goes for the filter bags on dust collectors. They are usually rated at 10 micron, 5 micron, or 1 micron. My dust collector sits outside, in a shed, so I don't worry to much about it. Although, the bags are rated for 1 micron. But folk who keep the dust collector in the shop should be aware that anything more than 1 micron is dangerous.

The floor in my little shop is 3/4" plywood on top of 4 x 4's on top of concrete. I just bought a bunch of the foam floor padding that Harbor Freight sells and did the entire shop with it. What a difference in my scroll saws. No vibration at all. I built custom stands for both of them out of 2 x and 4 x construction and they were pretty good as to vibration but since putting them on the foam padding, it's like night and day. I strongly recommend it. Much better than carpet.

Thats good. I know those saws and most scrollsaw operate better with less vibration when sitting on a solid surface. Saws with 4 legs like that are designed to be spread out just right to absorb vibrations. Good to hear you have no problems Happy Scrolling.

Ray, If I'm not stack cutting I go down a size or two.. Well maybe I should word it better.. If I'm cutting thin stock 3/8" or less I go down to a #3 and sometimes a #1.. but can use a #3 or 5 on the thin material too but then I'm slowing the saw way down.. I don't fool with the saw speed much and usually just change the blade I'm using.. Also remember.. that the smaller blade will give a smoother cut edge.. so even some projects I use a #3 as well.. even on the thick 3/4" stock.. animal puzzles come to mind here.. like Scott ( iggy ) makes.. the pieces fit together better with a number 3.. But yeah. my most common used blade is a toss up between a #3 and #5.. I use a lot of both.. probably the same amount of either one.. Now to throw a curve ball.. LOL.. I use the #5 the most on my Hawk.. as it's a less aggressive cutting saw... BUT.. The Ex-21 and 788.. I do find I use the #3 more... so this is a big reason I try to answer those what blade to use questions with.. buy sample packs... not everyone's saw cuts the same as mine.. even a difference in cutting between the two Hawks.. My 220 is more aggressive than my 226..also not everyone does the same types of cutting. and lastly.. not everyone likes to cut fast / slow.. Some places you buy blades from will give gross pricing on mix and match sizes so you might be better off to order 6 dozen of each blade and then get plenty of each size or break it down more and buy 3 dozen of a few sizes.. Just hate to see you plunk down a lot of money on one size blade then realize you wish you had a smaller or larger blade too.. . I'm not sure that DnD does the mix match for gross pricing.. but there are other places that will on the Pegas..

I'm with Joe on this one. My most used size is a #3, and my go-to blade is the FD Penguin Silver Reverse. My last couple blade orders have just been 3 gross of those at a time. They cut smooth, are very controllable, and stay cool and don't burn the wood even on really tight turns. I normally stack cut 3/4" of whatever I am cutting, so they may dull a little quicker, but I love the way they cut. I use some of the others at times, like the Pegas MGT or the FD UR, but when I need good control for fretwork, I always go with the Penguins. Steve

I had wheels on my first Hawk when I brought it home.. that thing would literally vibrate across the floor.. I did everything I could think of to dampen the vibration.. including parking the saw on a piece of carpet padding.. I ended up ditching the wheels.. I've thought about those roll around tool stands ( shopfox ) like I bought for my bandsaw.. but not sure that would even work... Now this is the older Hawk which does have more vibration than my newer Ultra.. so maybe they improved the balance of the machine on the Ultras..

No John. It is smooth as silk. Very easy to move around. I'd like to put larger wheels on back to raise it some.

I would think that if you were to use the blue LokTite you would only have to do it once.

When doing most of the fret work that I have been torturing myself with lately I rarely use anything larger than a #3.

Oh wow you nailed that one. It is so beautiful. That would have stopped your heart a few times but its one to be proud of, well done. Marg

They are awesome John. I would be proud too, to see them on display. Great work my friend. Marg

Almost finished with this. Just needs a base and lid. What would you guys use as a light source for this nightlight? I dont want cords coming out of it so anything battery operated is what in looking for. I'm thinking those fake candles they sell at Walmart? Any better ideas?

I'm with you John, none of my family like Collingwood or their supporters, but they are bringing the money in for Christmas. We have 2 Essendon, 2 Richmond, 2 Brisbane Lions and a Nth Melbourne. Me I'm neutral. But I lean towards Brisbane and Richmond. Marg

My heart will always belong to West Brom Paul. I check the scores every week, in fact my phone tells me the scores every week. They are too good for the division they are in now but not good enough for the Premier League, there should be one in between. Marg

I would like a ceiling air cleaner. However my shop is 14' long and the way the fluorescent lights are spaced there is no ceiling space available. I have placed a box fan on the floor in back of the saw. It turns on with the dust extractor. I'll try it for awhile and see what happens. It is the only place where there is room to put it.

I'm gonna choke, but that is excellent Marg. Just the colours are a bit off putting

Actually yes.. I have the box fan with a allergen type furnace filter on it.. and whatever saw I use I put the fan on the side that my saw air blower is aimed at.. o my Hawks the blower is on the right side so I aim the blower to blow the dust toward the fan on the opposite side.. I have to take that filter outside 2-3 times a day and knock out the dust and then bring it in and sometimes vacuum it off too.. It's amazing how much dust it catches.. I do set the fan up on something that will raise it up so the top of the fan is as high or slightly higher than the saws table.. some dust still flats past the top of the an or off to the sides.. which is why I have the ceiling mount filtration system.. BUT... I've been playing around with using the shop vac and PVC piping to actually suck the dust into the vacuum.. and I think this is working much better than using the fan.. as there is very little dust now.. I need to get a more permanent system built and a better and quieter vacuum.. and hook it to the foot switch is what I have at the moment..

On the Dewalt you can take the bottom off the blower and turn it 180 degrees. Then the blower tube comes out the other side. I did it and it works just fine.

I actually use three box fans with a fairly fine filter and they work well but I would like to get a regular air cleaner I believe it would be more efficient grizz Oregon

Excellent!!

If your saw is like my Dewalt , the saw’s blowers on your left side. If so, if possible I would recommend putting your box fan to your right side rather than behind you.

This pattern by Alex has been on my to cut list for some time now. Awesome job on the cutting. Jeff

I just finished googling air filters. Lots of information out there. One site was a doctor comparing an $800 air cleaner with a box fan and hepa filter. I think hepa because I am hearing impaired and don't understand everything being said. The upshot is he said while the expensive air filter obviously filtered down to the finest particles the simple box fan set-up did an admirable job. Many of the replies stated that their very cheap air cleaners worked not much better than the box fans. I have a couple of box fans which I will set up with a furnace filter and set it on the floor behind my scroll saw. I'll give it a shot. I'll plug it in so that it runs while my dust collector runs.

i made it with ,pine for the frame,then wrapped it with mahogany,i used ash for the vines on the frame,mahogany again for the circular pieces on the main section,i had a limited choice of wood but i think it turned out fine.

Wonderful job, Marg.

That is some very nice work!

Kevin, you probably don't remember, but when I first joined this blog and bought my Dewalt saw you encouraged me enough to get past the beginner's wall, and for that I will be forever grateful.

A very neat job on scrolling and finishing Marge! Thank you for posting, Bob

Down Right Fantastic.

Nicely done Marg. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

Looks great Marg but in your heart you know it should be this your cutting

I guess I'm just a cheapskate. I looked at it and thought $50 for that? So, I made my own with some PVC and a few other pieces. My system works great. I'm going to make something similar for my EX. I guess it is just me but I can't spend money on something that I can make myself. That and the fact that now, I'm on a fixed income and have to watch every dollar.

Hey Matt, You are welcome. Good to hear. Wasn't too bad,HUH. I'm telling everyone, I have the 40-694 arriving Tuesday Dec 30th. I love my 40-690, it is running great, I'll give it a rest and see how the 694 compares.

Just a reminder - the new 40-694 comes with a 5 year warranty. However, if the repair center is not close by - mine is 150 miles away - may make the warranty not very good. A day getting it there. Another day to pick it up. If mine needs it, it is take apart and get er done time. Study the parts diagram and take pictures as you take apart. http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-40694-variable-speed-scroll-saw-parts-c-3275_3505_418339.html?q=40-694 http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-40690-type-scroll-saw-parts-c-3275_3505_157559.html?q=40-690 (page B) Larry

Good luck Matt!..........Sounds like you are in good hands with Larry's instructions.

Matt, Updated Directions, please note changes/additions Don't think I missed anything. Wish you the best. I had mine apart 3 or 4 times looking for a self-induced problem. It became easy on the last one. (Self- induced problem is where you look in the wrong place for a problem you don't have and cause a real one) I pinched a bunch of wires putting it back together.

Thank you Larry. I assumed this was the case but since I've never opened one up before I was a little leary of screwing something up in the arms and such. I'll give it a go and let you know what happens. Thank you again!

Use lock washer if needed on motor No Locktite on any screws/nuts (any that hold covers on)

That is the case! If the motor is loose, it has to be tightened. Period. I have a 40-690 and if the motor was loose. I would take it apart and tighten it. It is easy, just takes an 1/2 hour to disassemble. I'm asssuming the 40-694 is similar Take the table off by unscrewing the screw on the front. (Heavy, don't bend screw) Remove the nut in the back that secures the saw to the bench. Now all you need is a star bit, 1/4" and 1/2" box wrench. Remove attached light Power Switch Cover -- remove 4 screws (remove cover later). Remove the 'U' clip screw that the table mounted to, Slip off the U clip. Remove the two screws require 1/4" wrench ( External nuts visable on outside) Remove the two screws on the front bottom that secures the saw to the bench. Lift the saw off the bench and lay it on its side with the motor off the table. (No weight on the motor). Remove the rest of the screws. (one screw is longer than the rest, some have washers (make note). Remove Arm Plate and switch cover. The back cover (opposite motor) has tight fit, work loose slowly. check and tighten motor screws. Re-apply or add grease where there was grease. There is metal plate 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" (approx) you need to align to put back cover on. Also insure you do not crimp wires when you put cover on The last screws are the ones that attach saw to bench, then the nut on the back.