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Another one that I thought was funny. The store where I take some things to sell, those folks think it would sell for sure. I don’t know about that—

So. Ready my basket. Pretty nice. I think.

i sell stuff in a book store... Author Author!!!!

What music do you like? 5 layers, 3mm (1/8 inch) MDF (medium density fiberboard) Pattern available at: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

A new one not quite of the press The bee pattern was by Frankey Scrolls, I believe it is in our pattern library. I just put the text on it. A4 size, no frame, edges painted black. This was cut from 8mm pine ply. I made it for a mate, who keeps bee hives, so he can get in the good books with his missus. enjoy

Well it has been a while and still a while to go but I managed to stand sit stand sit and get a couple of ones I have had on my list to do for a while pattern by Gayle from Scrollers cafe. Good to be able to cut something better than any medicine not quite at bragging rights yet but I am getting there slowly slowly .On a plus side I have loads of time to practise pattern making .

Here you go. The spiritual store lady requested a modified coexist with more symbols and changed around. It was fun doing it the hard way with paper, scissors and tape, But that's how I've been doing it since 2004. And then a dad project for the girl at the store.

This one goes on a digital readout at a store and the young girl's name is Roscelys.Hopefully, she will leave it there so canget work! 5"x3.5"

A woman will buy that for sure. LOVE IT. Marg

I ahhh put my money on there will not be a husband around brave enough to buy that!!!!

One thing to try to get rid of some of the nodes is to "simplify" the paths, under the path commands. If you delete all of the nodes, there will be no lines left! It may be that after simplifying the path, the drawing will change to something you don't want, especially if you simplify several times. If that happens, just "undo" back to the last "good" drawing. The "undo" command is one of my favorites.

I finally completed the bent lid box, in-between other projects. I used pins, glue and clamps to make the lid bend. Since it was only a 7 degree bend it was not too hard. Thanks for all the input that I will reference for other projects.

Last year: Craft vendor friend #1 - Scott, you really need to do the Topsail Autumn show, it's amazing. Craft vendor friend #2 - Scott, the Topsail Autumn show is fantastic, my best show every year, you need to do it next year... Scott - Yeah, ok, sure, I'll give it a try... Today: HOLY CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!! I barely have enough inventory to even do day 2... Blew my record away for 1 day sales... 121 puzzles. Previous record was 96. Absolutely mind blowing. Not nearly the crowd size of my usual top event, but folks were buying like crazy, I thought about just packing up and not doing tomorrow, but this is my first time doing the event and don't want to piss off the organizers by ditching the 2nd day. I made 3 special items that say TOPSAIL ISLAND... they sold out. I kept 1 of each for display so I can take orders but that rarely works since my items are purely an impulse buy. This really helps out my overall sales for the year since I missed several events due to rain and the hurricane. I was already a bit low on inventory, now I'm really in deep trouble with 5 holiday events coming up in November/December. I'm gonna be a busy cutter the next few weeks. Then I'll be ready for a break. Signed, Exhausted Iggy

Weather getting pretty cold up here so I made some stuff for the coming season, nice and warm in my basement. Halloween and Xmas decoration from Steve Good, leaves from Sue Mey (compound cut) and of course I had to make some more bird houses to get rid of some scrap wood.

I have done this exact same thing with my Dewalt. I have the 4x2 on its side so the rear is only raised 2".

Retired Scroller, sorry I couldn't find your name on the post. You did an excellent job on that beautiful box, if it's gift, get ready for a zillion THANK YOU'S. Thanks for sharing.

amazing work

Nicely done Kevin. Thanks for sharing these with us. DW

I don't like the dog house so i did not see this one!

Bad part s the scrolling is over. You had a wonderful time on this one I'm sure Well done, Obessesed scroller!

Excellent work. Marg

Marvelous work. The second one's head looks very fragile, bet you held your breath. Marg

Ha!

I appreciate a bit of humour and I'm sure that will sell.

after getting the VS fixed on my excaliber i was making quite a bit of dust. having an enjoyable day in the shop and wouldnt ya know it, the top blade clamp decided to strip its threads. i guess 4 years and a jillion times threading through holes finally wore it out. i have faith ray at seyco will have me back in business before the weekend. now i have no excuse to put some finish and ribbons on ornaments!

Kevin, all I can say is this.....I bought a set for my EX21 and I love them. I am toying with buying a set for my Dewalt if I decide to keep it. Probably will. Anyway, I'm thinking that if I do buy a set, I might just buy the ones for the EX and put them on the Dewalt. I like the tension lever. It works very smoothly. I can see setting the tension wheel/lever on the Dewalt and leaving it set at that point and just using the tension lever that is on the EX clamps. I think that would be far easier than the way you set the tension on the Dewalt. I realize you have become very accustomed to doing it the Dewalt way so it might not work out for you but having two saws both tensioning the same way would be a big benefit for me. If you do decide to buy a set, you won't be disappointed.

Just received my 1/8X12 Baltic Birch from Woodpeckers on Amazon 16 pieces and looks real good, plus free shipping thru Prime for 30 day free trail. Will order from them again.

WOW! What a beautiful box!! Is the pattern available somewhere? You really did an awesome job.

Beautiful work Dave! What kind of wood did you use?

Yes I’ll take the dogs any day. Nice job.

I always paint the backer first. Then when dry, I use Aleen’s Tacky glue. It’s thick, so a little will go a long way. It dries clear if you have some squeeze out, but I always clean up the squeeze out with a tooth pick. It is very strong and dries fast. I have never had a failure with Aleen’s! you can find it at any craft store like Michael’s or Hobby Lobby.

Dale that sounds like the first saw I had, Dremel 2 speed slow and fast, pin end. Back then 20 years ago was a rough time for me. The scrolling helped me through that. I found all the things you mentioned were an issue but kept me going during the depressive time. Now with a Dewalt and Ex 21, bandsaw. table saw Lathe and router table with routers no looking back. Was the best investment I made and was better than any therapy or medication I could take. Even just cutting outside shapes etc. there is something about being alone with the saw and the wood and creating something you can sand paint and say I did that. I past it on to my son in law and he has been bitten by the wood bug. He is not a scroller but has made home improvements with beds, dressers and night stands.

I always paint first. Then add the varnish. Cover the spots that will be glued with tape. Then when you are ready to glue it will work.

Thanks Bob, but that won't help me learn Inkscape. Right now, I have the drawing open, bit mapped and zoomed to 200%. I'm trying to figure out if there is a way to delete the nodes within a "boxed" area. I want to get rid of them and do a node trace of my own with far fewer nodes. I hope I'm making myself clear.

I made a plaque for friends in Tennessee. The scrolled part was painted black and the backer board was painted white. They were both 5/16" thick BB. I didn't glue them at all. I just shot about 4 or 5 5/8" brads in from the backside. I never even thought about gluing them. Hmmmmmm!

My philosophy is when possible paint or finish before assembly. I often mask areas of projects before finishing and think it's the easiest, I hate runs and sags. If you go back to the original thread the blue, pink and yellow were all sprayed before assembly and of course the numbers had to be sprayed before assembly. For glue on this type of project I've been using WELDBOND. (not to be confused with Weldwood) It's kinda hard to find and I got my last bottle at Ace. I couldn't find it at the big box stores.

Several years back I tried gluing up a painted backer to one of the themed crosses that Sue May designed.. While it held together... some areas did pull apart and was clearly not the best bond.. It's been so long ago now so I couldn't tell you what glue I used.. It could have been the glue, not enough glue since I was trying to not get much if any squeeze out etc.. I don't know... I posted on one of the forums and the consensus was not to paint first.. if you can avoid it... Ever since that experience.. I stay away from painting.. and now pretty much just use natural wood colors for contrast.. Typically use Birch and Walnut together.. Still think on certain projects.. some color would look nice.. but I hate to have a customer contact saying the piece fell apart too...

When I make one my signs I paint everything first and then glue it together. I use good old Elmers yellow wood glue and have never had any problem .

I'm not entering this as part of the Challenge but it seemed an appropriate place to share it. My grandson is a huge Halloween fan. He did some chores for his parents and me so he could buy a $10 skeleton, he pronounces it skellington. I've been setting it up in his front yard doing something different each day while he is at kindergarten. I'm going to try to continue till the 31st. I did use my scroll saw on the skeleton fish you'll see in one picture! I borrowed his cousin's skeleton, not his actual skeleton you understand, and added his skelly-dog for a few. j

Making smiles and memories is what you do best!

Here is my 2018 Grim Reaper that I completed this weekend. Walnut, Purple Heart, Aspen & Spalted Tamarin left off the magnolia

Let me be early on this one, because I was just taking to a guy about it yesterday. I may have showed this here before,,, but can't remember. This a pen I made for a Halloween pen making contest several years ago. I did use a scroll saw to make it. The black is strips of cut PVC Drain, Waste, Vent pipe. I cut and glued three strips together, to make a thicker piece and scrolled the little bats in to the piece. Glued three more pieces and scrolled some more bats. Doing it that way made it so there are bats on both sides of the pen. I filled the bats with epoxy mixed with red paint. When that dried I glued to two halves together to make the pen blank. I then mounted the blank on the lathe and turned the pen. I had no idea how it would turn out, but I think it came out pretty neat. One of the funnest to make pens I did. Oh, and it won the contest. Coarse there were only 6 or 7 entries.

When using acrylic craft paint, I like to seal the wood with a coat of shellac first. This gives you a smoother base to lay the paint on and no raising of the grain. That way you can thin the paint a bit and make it easier to flow out.

I would suggest trying aniline wood dye. You can mix it with water, keeping in mind it may raise the grain a bit. You can mix it with alcohol which shouldn't mess with the grain. I mix it with 70% water and 30% alcohol. Still raises the grain a bit, but not a big problem. You can mix any color you like and the dye goes into the wood instead of sitting on top and obscuring the wood. No clumping or brush strokes. You can go light or build up the intensity as you like. Needs a clear coat to finish. I use a paper bag or occasionally a coffee filter to knock down any nubs before the clear coat.

I've worked on many humpback clocks . The hump being made by making numerous cuts close together in the wood, then bending it and covering with veneer. Furniture is also made this way.

I have bent 1/8" Oak a few times by soaking it in water for three days, bending it into a form and allowing to dry for three days.

Hi LindaB, crooked cuts and mangled fretwork is good. Even designer sawdust is good. We're just glad you found and joined us!

Hi Rockytime - thanks for the welcome. I'm a total complete absolute beginner newbie to scrolling - I have only had my saw about a week. I'm really having fun but still learning a lot about selection of blades, woods, tensions, speeds, etc etc. I've done a fair bit of woodworking in other things; notably boat repairs and building, some cabinetry, general home stuff. I've also worked in metal shops off and on for many years. Anyhow, I'm no where near ready to post any work (unless you want to see a lot of crooked cuts and mangled fretwork!), but maybe soon. It is such fun. I shouldn't have jumped right into this thread, but steam bending is something I've done quite a bit of. Scrolling, not at all.

Hi Linda, I see you are a newbie here. Welcome to the Village. I don't see much in your profile. Perhaps you could mention a little about yourself. Many would like to get to know you and also welcome you. If possible you might post something you have done. Seems you might experienced in different things some would like to see. Again, welcome!

I've never steamed wood for fine woodworking jobs but I've steamed a fair bit of large, heavy wood for marine uses (sailboat repairs). The last job I did was to steam a 6" bow into a 14" wide by 7' long piece of sapele - which is notorious for not steaming well. It's not hard. You need steam, an insulated boxand patience. Build a steam box out of home insulation board - the stuff available 1" thick with foil coating in sheets from the big box stores - scraps or busted ends would be plenty for a small project. Gorilla glue. The steam box doesn't have to be pretty. For the big boards I did recently, though, the thing looked a lot like a very well insulated coffin! I use a wallpaper steamer to input steam, and a good thermometer in a vent hole to monitor. You have to get the whole mess up over 205 F for a fairly long time (4-5 hours for that huge piece of sapele, a half hour for more sensible size pieces of wood). White oak steams very very well - green cut oak, even better. All bent wood rocking chairs - as well as traditional sailboat ribs - are made from white oak for a reason. When it comes out of the steam box be prepared to work FAST to clamp it to the shape you need - better have a form ready and clamps at hand immediately. As soon as the wood cools off it won't bend anymore so you need to be very organized and prepared on this step. You may need to "overbend" it a bit since it may spring back a bit after it cools.... experiment some. For little bitty pieces you might try just wrapping them in a very wet terry rag and applying a steam iron to the sides, adding water and heat for a good 15 minutes or more til the wood gets hot. This works fine for little pieces of oak ... for big long thick sapele, not so much. Try steaming, it's fun. Somewhere in the basement I have a piece of 1" x 1" oak tied into a nice figure 8 knot. Its an odd looking thing once it's cooled and set!