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Finished this today. Made with maple and poplar.

I just finished this Alex Fox pattern. It took a while, and my Dewalt developed issues when I had about 75 cuts left to do and I nursed it through. 1/4” Baltic Birch, mounted on nominal 1” Poplar. 252 cuts!

Scroll reverse FDSR#7 blade,so sharp and a joy to use again!!!

Well finally got to finish this portrait for a friend of mine. I want to thank Paul (Grampa) for doing this pattern so quick for me. I had to tweak it a little and move the date over so I could make it a little bigger. I just couldn't cut the one that Paul did, it was just to small. I had a hard time with it. This was originally going to be an 8 x 10 made out of B/B Ply but I decided to do a complete heart around it out of Oak. I hope she likes it.

I found a file on Thingiverse that was meant for laser cutting but I tried scrolling it instead It reminds me of a tornado and looks quite 3D although its really flat You can get the file here https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:389075

Many thanks for the help with this portrait TDPainter.

I heard some sad news from a forum member that Homer Bishop has passed away. My heart goes out to his wife Carol and the rest of his friends and family. @Bishop has been a member of SSV since Oct. 2011. He was a very kind guy who loved sharing his expertise. His work is amazing and has been featured in SSW&C. He'll be missed.

Who needs a little strength in their lives everyday.....new one cut this morning requested by a friend yesterday.....so I made the pattern this morning....18"T x 6"W.....I chose 1/2" sanded birch plywood because I thought it would be stronger through the wording...rattle can black paint.....Comments please. Thank You Dan

Cool, i inverted the colors so it is now a remove the black pattern, it might be a little easier to understand, at least it is for me. Russell

Nothing has changed. It's just Google's new policy to put up a flag on regular HTTP websites. It switched about a month ago. Websites without an SSL certificate get that warning in Google Chrome. I'm going to switch it over soon. But work has been beating up on me for the last 8 weeks or so (hence why I haven't been as visible lately). If you're concerned about it, just put the S after HTTP and you can use the certificate I currently have. So our website would be https://www.scrollsawvillage.com. Unfortunately, as soon as you click a link, the S goes away and back to the plain HTTP. Once I get some breathing room, I'll switch it over sitewide. I just want to make sure that I have plenty of time to focus on it in case something goes wrong, I have time to fix it.

I'll take that saw off your hands Iggy. Shoot, I'll even drive there and pick it up from you. And yes, I'm a non-profit to. You can ask my tax guy.

I cut this and many more like it in the past, fun and very challenging. This one was cut from oak flooring

Just my opinion, but I would not get riser blocks to begin with. Resawing requires quite a bit of set up to do properly and a learning curve. If this is your first bandsaw, I would learn with it first before the riser blocks. Depending on the model, a 14" bandsaw can resaw anywhere from 6-12" . I can resaw 6-8" on my 16" Jet with relatively no problems. However, when you get to a taller piece of wood to resaw, it gets more difficult. Are you going to do a lot of resawing? If you are, then you will also need a thickness planer or drum sander to smooth out the saw marks. While smaller 10" bandsaw can not do everything a 14" one can do. It is also the reverse. I can do things with my 10" Rikon with the blade stabilizer that I can not do on my 16" bandsaw. It is easier to run small blades and do intricate cuts. The best advice for you is to decide what you are going to use it for and how much you will use it. Are you going to get into doing a lot of resawing, make bandsaw boxes, general woodworking or what. This will help you decide what to get.

I have found that a lot of people that have no knowledge of the foot control assume that it is like a sewing machine control. Variable speed.

Last weekend's item finally oiled Also: Steve Good Ornament:

Had an afternoon in the shed having a go at letters. Still using pinned blades on my Aldi saw while I await delivery of my Hegner. Had company from my wee helper

Just received my new DW... Apparently I ordered it just in time, it's now back to $499.95

Bonnie Scotland, Aberdeenshire. Lucky to have Dunnottar Castle on my doorstep.

Hey mine has the same thing. I might have to try this and see how it works. Thanks Jim

Changing the line and background colors of an image - Any photo software, not just Irfanview, should let you change the color of your image in a similar manner. PhotoShop, PhotoShop Elements, Gimp, etc. will all allow changing the colors by varying the tint adjustments, in this case to "full red". Even "Paint 3D" on Windows 10 will let you do this but the "line" and "fill" commands on Paint will be what you choose to do it. Once changed and saved as a red line image, any inkjet printer or color laser printer will make as many copies as you want I use PhotoShop because I once used it professionally for photo restoration and retouching work, so it is almost a second language to me, but any of these programs will work for this. Putting multiple small images on a large page - Another thing that photo programs will do very well is to let you put or combine many images or copies of one image on a single sheet of paper. For small scroll saw work, this saves a lot of paper. To do this in a photo processing program, I open the file containing the image that I want to make multiple copies of and then also open a new blank image the size of the paper that you will be printing on. In Photoshop there are horizontal and vertical guide lines that you can position anywhere by dragging them one at a time from the horizontal and vertical ruler scales that appear at the left and top of your image. These show on the computer display, but don't print out in the final image. I drag a horizontal guide line down to about 1/2" from the top and a vertical guide over about 1/2" from the left. These will make it easy to place the upper and left edge of an image onto this new blank file so it won't be affected by the printer margins. Using the "Move tool" (in Photoshop this is a horizontal and vertical double pointed arrow). I click and hold on the small photo image and then drag it onto the large image file. Once there I can move it around anywhere that I want the same way using the "move tool". So I can position it in the upper left corner formed by the two blue guide lines. This image is kind of on a clear layer on top of the large blank image file that's called a "Layer". It's kind of an electronic version of a clear piece of plastic that you just placed an image on. You can slide this image in any direction my moving this clear piece of plastic without it actually being on the background. OK, you now have the image that's on layer 1 in place. Now move two more guidelines out from the rulers to positions where their upper left intersections will be where you want to place the second copy of the small image. Now go back to the other file with the small image on it and repeat the process, dragging a second copy of the small image over to the larger image file and position it so that it's upper left corner is in the upper left intersection of the second tow blue guidelines. This image is now on a second "layer" or clear plastic sheet that's sitting on top of the previous layer. You can move it anywhere you want to with the "move tool" and the previous small image under this "layer" won't be affected by what you do to it. You can repeat this process, moving additional small images over and adding guidelines until the whole sheet is full. If you should ever want to move one of the lower "layers" or make any other kind of changes to one of them, you will need to select the layer that image is on. (This is kind of like pulling a playing card out of the middle of a deck of cards and working on it and then putting it back into the deck). So you can go back and change any one layer without affecting any of the others, but you can look down through this whole stack and see all of the images, as if they are all sitting in their positions on the base level image file. Once you have all of the images on their layers and positioned where you want them, save the large multiple image file including all of the layers. You can then print the full sheet of small images as many times as you would like. You can even still go back and open this full page file and change any one or more of the images on it by selecting the correct "layer" and making whatever adjustment that you would like to. There is a command available called "Flatten Image". If you use this command it will remove all of the electronic sheets of plastic and put all of your small images on the base layer. This will reduce the file size of the full page file, but you need to realize that when you do this, you will no longer be able to separately move or modify only one small image on the sheet without affecting the rest of them. I never "Flatten" an image file, unless I will be sending it to a customer and I don't want them to ever be able to edit each small image in the file. Well, this description above tells you how to fill a full page with multiple copies of small images quite easily using any version of Photoshop. Other photo editing programs will also have this same capability, but may use different names for the commands. It will take a little while for you to get good at this, so don't expect perfection on the first try. Experiment with these two tips and don't hesitate to ask questions if you have trouble doing them. I'm certain that I can help if you are using one of the photo processing programs, especially on of the PhotoShop versions. Learn how to do both of these, and get yourself a scanner and an inkjet printer, any you will pay for both of them quickly since you won't be paying FeDEx, a local print or copy shop, or even wasting paper any more. Combination scanners, copiers, FAX, and inkjet printers are available at very reasonable prices now and will do all of these functions in one small machine for just a few hundred dollars, and even cheaper if you buy a used one. Charley

Here is a link to his obituary that was shared on the SSWC Magazine's Forum. Looks like they may have an Intarsia pattern of Homer and Carol's already planned for the next issue. https://www.eliasfh.com/notices/Homer-Bishop The article index for the magazine shows that Homer and Carol had 11 articles previously in that magazine. http://scrollsawer.com/article-index/ - If you put Bishop in the search box, it will show the articles they did. I did a screen capture since the link wouldn't show just their articles for those who might want to see. If you click on it, it will show up larger so you can read it.

I don't suggest modifying it if it's working okay for you.. Wiring it direct isn't going to give you more power... and also won't get any more speed out of it.. I wired mine direct because the speed control circuit board messed up and it was " speed hunting " ( fast slow fast slow ) which is almost impossible to use safely.. I almost did a video on how to do it.. but then thought against it simply because I don't want to be held liable for someone else's idiot mistake.. Like I said.. bypassing it doesn't improve anything... it doesn't give more power or make it run any faster than the fastest speed on the variable speed dial.. if it did.. then expect it to be more dangerous to use and also expect the motor to burn up soon.. trying to get more power or faster speed sounds to me like you need a bigger machine.. rather than playing with danger and injury trying to modify what you have... these small units are designed for light duty use.. If you're up on electrical stuff and having a problem with the variable speed.. and have general knowledge of switches and motors etc.. just take it apart and wire it up.. actually was quite simple.. but messing with it if you don't know electrical wiring etc.. I would advise finding someone that does know..

I'm with you on the "too frustrated" Until I can sit for hours and hours at the computer, I don't learn very well by watching videos or reading the books.

Maybe they intended to state variable speed control, and a foot pedal. I agree with Paul on the appearance of the saw. A few minutes spent vacuuming the saw would make it much more presentable.

Very nice!

Super nice dan. I bet they are really fragile.

I know a few people that would love this medicine box!

Beautiful.. Great work Wayne. Marg

Excellent work Dave. Marg

He was a lovely man and so very helpful, he will be missed. My condolences to Carol and his family. Marg

Now I'm even more impressed!

I can understand why you are getting requests. Great looking patterns!

You know how I feel, if the seller won't even dust it off to try to sell it, I lose interest. I see it often, covered with dust, no attempt to clean it up a bit...I know, picky, picky..... The variable speed foot control.... I don't know about that. I guess if it had cruise control to go with it......

The variable speed foot control would be my first turn off.

Hate to say it but I could not place this gentleman. So, I went and looked at his posts in "Bragging Rights". Only a few but I remember one in particular. He did some pictures using vinyl floor tile that I thought were very unique and neat, He also did a neat slot machine bank.. Very sorry to read of his death. My condolences to his family.

Well done, Dave! I like the novelty of the in-laid leaf quite a bit also! God Bless! Spirithorse

Nicely done project Dave. That came out great. Thanks for sharing this with us. DW

You are a brainiac!

He was Amazing in his scroll saw Skills. I'm honored top have commented on things he's posted in SSV !

Kevin, Your comment made me laugh out loud.

I have had a couple more requests since this morning...….here's the 3 so far I have requests for

LOL, Marg!!! It's from a coconut i scavenged food from,lol

I guess their equipment is not that sophisticated. I have been taking black patterns in for a long time and getting them in copied in color. The copier they used is very large with a large touch screen. The operator presses a few commands and out comes color from black. I always make sure I get the same operators.

Recently, our city was visited by Texas Country Boys. For Ukraine it is a very unusual style, but it was interesting to listen.

Haven't had it with this site, but occasionally with others. If it's a site I use regularly, I click "Accept the Risk". That's why we pay the bucks for an anti-virus. Let them deal with it. jerry

That's always good to hear, great job.

Welcome to the Village Irene. I take my hat off to you, I have been scrolling for about 20 years and I hate spiral blades and I love all of those turns. Marg

Welcome aboard, if you started with spiral blades, you will find straight blades will be boring for you.

Hello Brenda, What you do in Inkscape is set the stroke to red and the fill to light grey...so you don't use too much red ink...if you see what I mean, You can alter the red stroke by hovering over the number of the stroke with your Mouse and setting a higher number if you want o.k. Bob P.S. To alter your patterns you would need to reload them into Inkscape to edit them...if you had done them in Inkscape