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My friend chose to use this design rather than the one that was made in my pattern request.. I'm still going to cut the one made for me in the request.. in fact it's already on the wood and drilled.. just need to get off my lazy butt and go cut it.. Not for a few days though with all the holiday things I've got going on and the errands I've gotta do today.. will be a little busy.. Oh took the picture of it setting on my drink coasters I made.. they are finally done.. dipped in the 50/50 BLO MS.. and then top coated with water based poly.. Made 10 of them... now need to make the holding tray for them..

After watching the Inkscape tutorials by Travis I actually managed to design and cut my first pattern. Its not much but boy am I pleased with myself. Still a fair bit of sanding but Jessica’s Nursery teacher should like it.

My wife wanted a portrait of her wearing a hat. 1/8" BBPW on 1/4" PW backer. Design was not too bad. Eyes and mouth were ok. She wanted to do the nose.

I have finished the plaque that I showed before, but the finish isn't quite as good as I'd like. I used a spray varnish, but obviously didn't get it quite right. May I ask how you all get that 'perfect' finish I always see on this forum ? There's a 'run' on the right and it's not quite as 'shiny' as I'd thought it would be. Or am I being ''too picky''

These are fun little cars to make for the toddlers in your family. They fit in their little hands really well. I uploaded the pattern to the library in case anyone is interested in making some stocking stuffers. I finish mine with non toxic dye I get at Hobby Lobby and mineral oil in case they decide to take a bite. Hobby Lobby may have quit carrying this dye. It's FolkArt brand dye. Here it is on Amazon-https://www.amazon.com/d/Art-Paints/FolkArt-Assorted-Colors-5614-Tantalizing/B01ETT4IK0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542748110&sr=8-1&keywords=folk+art+dye

Adding to the light coats suggestion lightly sand with 400 paper between coats. Makes a much smoother finish.

I think it is just the contrast between the red and the black. For me the black blade blends into the black line. For me the lack of contrast makes it more difficult.

Something I thought that I'd add that seems related. I never, ever open my windows or leave doors open and I run a dehumidifier in warmer weather. Since I started doing this a number of years ago I've had no rusty tools, no waxing or spraying of cast iron tops and electric motors to have repaired. Kinda stinks on nice spring days, but worth it in the long run.

Hey there my fellow scrollers, look forward to get back into my favorite hobby. Question, is anyone doing or has seen folks doing very large, oversized scroll cuts on wood? Thanks

Posted a pic a while ago and Paul ( @grampa) came through with this awesome pattern, thanks again Paul. 11 X 14", stack cut three 1/8th bbpw. Jeff

This is just for information. I had the B & W pattern (shown below) enlarged and copied in living color. I had four copies made @ $1.56 each.I don't know what it would cost to have enlargements made in B & W though. I think for most persons it may not make any difference but the red does help my old eyes quite a bit. I think the price is quite reasonable.

I made Dark Tower night light as a birthday present (Sauron would be proud). The back layer is frosted glass, I mounted a color changing LED bulb to allow the user to change its color and add a soft glow light to a dark room. Aside from the frame, this was made using 1/8" plywood. I used a airbrush to color the wood.

The hardest parts of this pattern are the antenna and the grill. I would make sure to protect those areas after cutting by leaving the waste pieces in and taping them. Take your time

The good thing is that people are using the library.!

My main reason for going with the heat pump is that there is no open flame or high temperature surface in or on it to start a fire. Propane, city gas, wood, and electric resistance heating all have the chance of starting a fire, if adequate space is not maintained between it and the wood or wood dust. To me, they are just not safe in a wood shop environment. A heat pump doesn't get hot enough to cause a fire, and is also a good air conditioner in the Summer so two units, one for heating, and the other for cooling aren't necessary either. I'm retired now, but have been a volunteer fireman and rescue squad member since the age of 18, an EMT II, an arson investigator, and the fire marshal of a 3.8 million sq ft manufacturing facility. I know how fires start and the damage to lives and property that they can cause. Keep your shops as safe from fire as you can, especially if it's attached to or under your home. A wood shop is no place for high temperature heating equipment, It's just too easy for wood and saw dust to come into contact and in a small shop this is nearly impossible to avoid. In Northern climates this is not always possible either, but extra precautions, like putting the furnace in a separate fire safe room with air filtering and ducting of the air to and from it into the shop, or better yet using a boiler type furnace and plumbing to carry heated water to radiators in the shop, is the safer way to go for a complete separation of the high temperature heating appliance and the wood shop. Charley

The thing that makes it run is the thinner in the can. Which is mainly to get the finish out of the can. Spray far enough away so the thinner has a chance to dissipate before collecting on the project.

Bill has the right process for applying the finish, but what may be equally important is how smooth you sand the wood. The finer the last grit of sandpaper, the shinier the finish will be. To get a high gloss finish, sand to at least 320, sanding with the grain by hand on the last sanding. Also, a light scuff sanding between coats with 400 grit or finer will help. Be sure to wipe all the dust off with a tack rag or vacuum cleaner after sanding.

That's very interesting. After working behind a computer for years, I could use extra help in the sight dept at time. Might have to try it. I wonder if there's a scientific reason for it.

My problem is I can never remember the "tricks" for that seldom used stuff so I just type it out. Quicker in the long run, but I do share your curiosity for how it's done.

Simplest and quickest answer to your question is to use several, light coats of finish. Allow adequate time between coats to dry, as per the instructions on the can. Light coats will better prevent runs. The first few coats will seal the wood and several more will build a film finish. If you want shiny, use a product with a high gloss sheen. It should say right on the can, whether it's high gloss, semi-gloss or satin.

Also most use black backers but it doesn't always need to be black.. here is a couple I've done in other than black colors..

Finally got around to shooting pics of some Christmas ornaments. Almost all of these go to family. The simple snowflake count was 37. (First picture) The birds on the birdhouses are not glued. I will let my sister pick the bird for house. She wanted some for her friends.

These are just more from Sue Mey's lighted project book. I've posted similar trees but I used a gold glitter spray paint to add some more color to them.

You did a neat job alround Andy, Thank you for posting, Bob

I have noticed a couple of times lately where we were discussing temps on our shops and folks are using the asterisk for a degree symbol. I got to wondering how to do it. This is what I found out.

Nice!

love the pattern, and great cutting

Me too. My memory won't fit them all in.

I keep a list of these ALT codes next to my keyboard. Tom

After having cut that one....yeah, my future patterns will be red, especially the "remove the black parts" patterns. After a while, it got hard to see where the blade was!

Asked for help on 3 of these Both the Clint and laBron James are done by Multitom also the personal pattern of the couple is his work. Grampa did the storks for me. Thanks both of you for answering my request and the wonderful patterns, you folks make me look good. jim

I prefer Danish oil and the dipping method as well. But if I am top coating it is always with Lacquer and not poly. With lacquer no need to sand between coats and dries quickly so adding coats can all be done in a day. I have been using satin alot these days but have done things with gloss as well. I agree about the sanding but I only go to 220 grit and find this to do well for me. Good luck.

I have been printing in red for quite a while. I can also see my blade better. I hated the cost of Ink cartridges so decided to by a Cannon Pixma. I love it. Cut my printing cost drastically.

Lost all my pic's. Had them in Photo Bucket, and it will not load today? Took this one down, I think this one was cut. Around the third month I started cutting.

@octoolguy. I do this in gimp as it has some pre-loaded "wood colors" as to how I do it.. LOL that's a good one that I probably can't explain to well since I don't really know how I do it, LOL.. I just know there is a bucket fill too and then you click something that said pattern fill ( I think ) then it brings up the colors to choose from.. then click the area to be filled... I do this so automatically that I'm not exactly sure how I do it, LOL.. anyway.. I learn to do this when doing portrait patterns.. you fill there area and if you have any floaters.. they stay white so it helps you find those bad areas.. or.. it colors in areas that shouldn't be colored .. Not sure that made any sense but I tried.. I don't use these tool enough to know what I'm talking about..

Howdy Mr. Ray, Thank you Sir. I'll take a stab at it and get some practice with it. The more I keep thinkin' about it, that's the only true way that I can see to get the proper fit. I have studied other books I have, read, and watched other videos as well, and I don't see any other way. I think I've got setting the drill bit angle and blade angle figured out, it's just a matter of figuring out the correct angle now. Thank you for your thoughts and input, Mr. Ray. I appreciate it, Sir! Sawdust703(Brad)

When I first started I was confused as well.You got a lot of Great help up there.You'll do fine,just cut the black.

Never gave it much thought,I will have to give it a try.Looks Fantastic!!

I too prefer 'Red', but I did mine with a grey infill. Red is much easier on my eyes although I know that a lot of experienced scrollers prefer black.

Whew hooo!! Let's keep it going. . . anybody else want to push us further out and really break the curse!?

The hummingbird pattern from Sheila Landry and the Angels from the magazine (I think Christmas 2012) Got an order for 14 of them.

I love those colors! What section of the store did you find your dyes?

OMG...did we do it? I feel like we broke the curse! Let's not just win, let's REALLY win and keep it going. Who else can help out? @Travis @Kris Martinson - Received @meflick - Received @worbler - Received @Montserrat - Received @MrsN @Fab4 - Received @grampa - Received @Foxfold - Received @bobscroll - Received @WayneMahler - Recieved

I use the mr heater mh80. It heats 1900 sq feet. Is very quiet and you can get almost 20 hours from a bbq propane cylinder.ive had 2 of them and they work great

absolutely! i have never heard anyone say something like: 'i shoulda built my shop smaller" or "i should have insulated less" or "i should have got a smaller heater" or "i should have bought less lumber" or ......... although an ex girlfriend once said,"do you need all that lumber?" which contributed to the 'ex' part.

@grampa really fun pattern Paul. @GPscroller you did a great job scrolling Paul’s pattern.

Surely the newspaper makes its rounds every year to see your amazing displays!

Better not even talk to me about clamps.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaand finished. Wood was a 2x2 from Lowes, probably pine or something else cheap, since blade-exit didn't leave feathers so much as it took chunks with it. Next time, a 2x4 of harder wood, ripped down the center, will be my wood of choice. Lots of holes, lots of blade moves, lots of fighting with scrap chunks that got caught in side cross-channels (cross-hatching the scrap wood as I cut it, instead of trying for a solid piece, helped immensely). This was a fun cut to do, and I look forward to doing more like it! Sanded with a cheap nail file cut in half lengthwise...multiple interior layers as channels cross themselves means multiple "exit feathers" to take off. Finished with BLO, currently on stands, drying.