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Made this one for my customer who wanted it for his mate Fatty as a birthday present. I put this one under glass as it has a few very delicate pieces in it ,I also made the frame out of red gum. Cheers Peter

So in addition to doing the two 2018 Christmas ornaments for my wife, I also tried some of the 3D ornaments Steve Good had on his site. 4 done so far. I'm out of town most of next week (business trip again), so I probably won't get a chance to finish up the last one, all depends on how the Christmas festivities and functions and obligations go. Fun cuts, quick cuts, but make darn sure your 1x1" blanks are actually 1x1. Apparently my band-saw blade started to bow out a bit, making the blanks a bit concave. Guess its time to see if they still make blades for that particular model (7.5" diameter wheels, old Black and Decker desktop model).

This is an original pattern made from a picture the client took. It is a picture of a chapel her father built and it will be a Christmas present for him. I'm still not sure of myself in the pattern making department, but I think this turned out ok. 1/4" Maple w/ a stained BB backer. Used mostly FD UR #1, the tiny holes in the roof were done with FD New Spiral 2/0. 10"x10 1/2"

I made these for a co-worker as a request from a pattern by Travis Cook in 2009. Years ago I made the “mistake” of changing a sled design by Sheila Landry and put my name on it and showed people. Ever since then people want ornaments every year with names on them and sometimes the year.

Now the rest of these photos are of projects that I used some of Steve Goods patterns and some of my own design or a combination of. I will see how many they allow me to upload here. I want thank again all the pattern makers and for all of you who took the time to look in and check my latest out. I love scrolling and making things that are different. Hopefully you approve and any comments and questions are always encouraged. Thanks again.

Just a nice pleasant day trip. I do that often just to park outside of a quilting store and wait for my wife.......

The project has taken me about 6 months and is now completed. The Maloof Style Rocker is made of Claro Walnut with lots of interesting and beautiful grain. I learned to make the rocker from Bill Kappel in Utah and went out there months ago for a week long one on one class with him. He has made many beautiful rockers and is a great teacher. He helped me get started and then shipped the parts and wood back to me in Indiana. The chair was a real challenge for me and included so many hours of grinding, shaping, sanding..... One interesting part was fitting the chair to my wife's liking. It involved setting the upper part on the rockers and then adjusting them for height and placement. This allowed the angle of the chair and height to fit her. The finish on it is 4 coats of Teak Oil, 4 coats of wipe on poly with light sanding in between and finally it was sanded with 1500 and 2000 grit paper and waxed with Butchers Wax. I did use my scroll saw on the project. Mostly it was to create wooden templates of some of the parts. It was interesting trying to get the left legs to look exactly like the right legs. I had never done this before and it was a real challenge. Now I am ready to get back to some scrolling projects and want to take on one of the truck models that I have seen.

I have a swap coming up shortly and the ornaments have to be plant related. I did sneak the Snowman in!

Next up Russell (BIRCHBARK) This pattern maker is one I used many patterns from before and again he stepped up to help me with quite a few here as well. Thanks Golfer, I lost my original pattern and he was able to create basicall the same one for me Carpenters Plane House electrical chord clock Plumbers wrench

Next up Tim (WORBLER) Carpenter (made the 2 saws crossing) Carpenter with plane, square, and scribes Sheet metal worker clock and the sheet metal symbol

Thanks guys. I’ll use carpenters glue. @Scrappile I dance when I’m happy or drunk or frustrated. I might do my drunk dance....going to pour a drink! But I’ll glue first.

OK I really do not know how to do this both to give credit for the pattern makers, also to show off my work, and to finally not bore you all but I will try and hopefully the site will allow for this. It will be a lengthy post so pull up a chair and get some popcorn. I first want to thank the pattern makers here that do such a great job and in particular and I hope I am not leaving anyone out and if I am please please accept my apology. Over this past year I began changing some projects in my inventory and I need help with some patterns so I asked here and had gotten help from Tim (WORBLER) , JIMERN, Bob (BOBSCROLL), Paul ( GRANDPA), Russell BIRCHBARK) and also many from Steve Good who I am not sure ever looks in here, and again if I missed someone please mention something if you see a project I made and did not give credit. Not my intention to leave anyone out. I will start with the know pattern makers and then just post finished projects. All got great reviews at the show my hats off to you pattern makers for the help. I also want to mention I probably took your pattern and incorporated in some manner to make a project that had my vision and taste added to it. Thanks again and let the show begin. I see I can not do this the way I wanted so I will have to make individual postings. Bear with me. Bob ( BOBSCROLL) Irish napkin holders and also Irish plaque Iron worker clock

Next up JIMERN He designed the crossing lighting bolts for me I used in a project I created but combined a couple pattern makers help.

Dave, I have two Excalibur saws and I would not trade mine for any saw, Once I started using the first one, I was on the constant watch for another. It is hard to find one on the market and though I feel this guy is a little on the high side, I don't think you would ever feel it was a mistake to buy it. Good luck, I would make sure that he knows you are coming and insures he will hold it for you until you have a chance to check it out. It is a great saw Dick heppnerguy

You'll get a ton of options on this subject, LOL.. almost like the what saw to buy and what blades to buy, LOL.. For what it's worth.. I bought this mask a year ago and just replaced the filters for the second time a few weeks ago.. I do occasionally take the filters out and use a air gun to blow the dust back out.. but I quit doing that.. as it didn't make sense to not have a mask on while blowing the dust out of my mask sending it all over my shop.. I wear it anytime I'm in the shop.. even with dust collection and everything.. there is still fine dust that settles everywhere and just moving can stir it up.. so I just always wear it.. https://www.rockler.com/gvs-elipse-p100-half-mask-respirators?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoo7gBRDuARIsANeJKUZaA6c_mJfrRvsCTk2_XKcbwIfhLlxm7V4tpH9LPrS7XkWuOmLiTnAaAnZdEALw_wcB

By the looks of the saw table.. I'd say it was hardly used.. the paint on these saws table wears off quite fast.. something I was / am disappointed with on my saw.. only about one weeks work and a good amount of the paint on mine was gone... probably like 20 - 30 hours.. so I doubt the saw is used at all or very little.. If that is actual photos..

I have an EX21 an would be all over this saw!! If I was near it.

Not an introduction, but an update. I have finally made the move from Sacramento to my new home in Kansas City, MO. My son and his family moved here a year ago, and I missed them too much to stay in California. Happy to be reunited with them and to be in our new home. Bonus feature...I now have a large indoor room for a workshop! I can't wait to get started equipping it.

I inhale deeply before entering my shop. Then I exhale very slowly while scrolling. Then I step outside for another deep breath.

Also don't forget that the blades given with the saw might not be of any value to the new owner, I probably have a dozen gross of blades.. you know.. the cheap hardware store blades Vermont whatever they are brand... and several gross of blades that are more like huge jigsaw blades that I think are Olsen.. anyway.. I have a whole box full of blades I'll never use that came with the used scroll saws I've bough over the years.. and every time I sell a saw.. I intend to give that box of blades to them.. so they'll have a box of blades they can't use too.. .. somehow I always forget to pass them on.. LOL.. Maybe someone here would like a box of blades?

Guys don’t forget he will be getting a bunch of blades an stand also. I find when buying something like this I get a lot of extra things the seller gives away that is not needed after selling the item. I have a EX21 and only needed a bigger one one time but it would have been nice. Warranty isn’t that big of a deal (to me).

My go to for thick cutting like that would be the FD Polar #5.

I think the price is kind of in line with the 30" saw... This saw doesn't look to be used much at all... The seller states he'd drive to meet up.. It's screaming at you.. BUY me Buy me

I just cut some mahogany in 3/4 x 1 1/2 and I used Pegas #5 mgt. I love these blades. They seem to be good for most anything so far. But, I'm a newbie so take it for what it's worth. I had to cut 8 of the same thing in compound 3-D cuts. Here is what I was cutting.

I own the earlier version of the EX-30 when it was still made by Sommerville Industries in Canada 15 years ago and it is a very good saw. With the exception of the colour (mine is purple) and the larger table on this saw, this saw and mine look identical. I would want at least $800 if I were to sell mine so this looks like a good deal.

One more suggestion if I were doing this i would do the glue up on top a piece of wax paper so the glue does not stick to it. i also would have the wide opening on the bottom. Easier to slip a rubber band or two around the smaller end.

One thing that I read in the OP's post is that "his blade is bending enough to cut his insert". To me, that says that he is either pushing his work into the blade way too hard, or his blade is not tensioned tight enough and it is bowing backwards, or maybe a combination of both, but the damage that I can see on his insert looks to me like he is pushing the blade sideways, another newbie mistake. Scroll saw blades only cut when the work is pushed away from you and into the front side of the blade and teeth that are facing you, at least when the blade is inserted correctly, and you are not using a spiral blade. You also have to realize that the teeth on the blade are very tiny, and not at all as large as the teeth of the blades on the rest of your woodworking tools. Scroll sawing is a slow and exact process. Don't expect to fly through the cutting process like you do with your other woodworking tools. Concentrate on pushing the work only when you have the line being cut oriented so the blade follows it. You don't have to cut as fast as the blade can cut. You can even pause the cut and leave the saw running for brief periods, then push the work and cut a little further and stop again, or pause while you get the work turned enough to follow the line again. Accuracy is what you should be striving for, not speed. Great results can be achieved if you learn to feed the work into the blade no harder than the tiny blade teeth can cut the material. Smaller blades can cut tighter curves, but have smaller teeth, so they cut slower. An additional plus to using smaller blades is that the finish of the cut is smoother and requires less or no sanding afterward. If your blade is burning the wood your blade is dull, you are running the saw too fast for the material being cut, or you are pushing the work sideways against the side of the blade. It requires practice to learn how to pick the right blade for the work being cut, and how to recognize when you are cutting properly. Learn to rest your palms on the front of the saw table, or that position on your work if it extends over this area of the saw table. Then feed and steer your work into the blade with just your finger tips and not your arms and elbows. You will find that you can follow the lines better and make tighter turns when you master this technique. The only important spot to watch is the line where it is just in front of the blade and steer the work with your fingers so the blade follows the line ,or just to the waste side of the line if you are doing small work. Scroll sawing is a journey, not a destination. You will get to the destination, eventually, but while on the journey concentrate on following the lines as accurately as you can. This isn't easy and requires practice too, but you will get much better at it with lots of practice and patience. Don't hesitate to ask more questions. I'm sure you will have plenty. One of us should be able to answer any question that you may have. We love to help the newbies. Charley

Thanks @JTTHECLOCKMAN

No in my opinion. Nothing stronger than fresh wood glue. Hide glue could be but messy. It is just 2 joints so I believe you do not need more open time or else I would suggest Titebond III. As I said the tape will help you not worry about getting glue where you do not want it.

I don't know? There is PRECIOUS little glue surface, it appears to be end grain to end grain, and it will be hard to clamp. Maybe use painters tape to hold it together while the glue sets. You don't mention the type of wood but I'd try Weldbond, just because it dries clear. Good luck.

The only thing holding me back is that it is about two hours away. It would stink if it isn't what he says it is.

I have been using the medical examining masks. They are fairly cheap and catch the finest of dust.

Not sure how this saw is. Sounds like it was used pretty good. I would check it out and take if for a test drive, make sure no vibration etc . I have a 21" and love it. You could also call Ray at Seyco to make sure parts are available if needed. You can top or bottom feed this unit.

That should be a great saw. Looks like little used and rarely seen for sale used..... If I was in the market and close,,,,, and had the cash to spend...... hummmmm. Top feed and bottom feed,,, your choice.. At the very least it would be well worth checking out.

Sorry to hear of your misfortune. I'm sure all of us have had that happen along our journey. I would use regular wood glue and then re sand it . Be careful on the amount of glue , and clean up the squeeze out as best you can. Wrap with tape and let sit over night. Best of luck.

When this happens to me & it has, I just glue it back with yellow wood glue (TB2)

It’s not coming from the blade rubbing the plastic piece. Plenty of space there. I started it up and it has no squeak, just vibration. It was warmer today, roughly 65 degrees. I run it for a while. Then next thing you know the squeak comes back. I turn it off and on while I’m fiddling around. The squeak goes away. Then comes back, then goes away. Ha!! I’m very likely going to take it back and upgrade to the Delta.

I bought one at Lee Valley and so far I really like it.

I have two, an old Racal full face air fed mask and a Sundstrom mask but to honest it's not very often I use either, by the time I've thought about putting one on I finished cutting.

@SCROLLSAW703 I appreciate your .02 pennies worth Brad thanks. I’m just hoping I can save the bowl. I’ve got about 5 days of sanding into it. Scrolling something else right now. Want to end my day on a positive.

These are very nice. You can bet these will be placed on the trees, every year for a long time to come Dick heppnerguy

@JTTHECLOCKMAN Thanks. I will have to get some wider then I have rubber bands and I might have to wait till another set of hands comes by.

Excellent work. Safe travels. Marg

He I am still looking for a rain coat.

Very nice. I bought a set of patterns for 3D ornaments, but haven't gotten around to trying them yet.

I've had a RZ mask for several years and really like it even though I know I don't wear it as often as I should. It is very comfortable and seem to do a good job at filtration. They claim to be 99.9% effective, but are not NIOSH or OSHA approved. One small thing that I really like is that they are available in bright colors which make them easier to locate when left laying around the shop.

They look really nice John, I like the wood you used also well finished, Thank you so much for posting your great work for us all to see, Bob

yea I am into the segmenting and trying new things. I will see you over at IAP. Need to give Mark a run for his money over there. I* can not do 2 things at the same time because it takes up too much equipment room. Has been a while since i turned some pens. Want to start working on my Bash entries for there also.

We had snow last week but is long since gone. The mountains had a lot of snow over Thanksgiving and all the ski resorts are open. I don't ski. Heating the house is expensive and I'm going to stay inside and enjoy it. However, today it is 60 degrees. So I'm about to go out to my shop.

Beautiful picture. I love fresh fallen snow and the way it looks. I can do with out it on the roads and the idiots that try to drive in it though. Can't you put a small heater in the shop ?