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Started this last June, then my eyes got so bad I decided to quit scrolling until I could have cataract surgery. I finally was able to have it done in October and am now getting back in the shop. Next month I will get new glasses to work with my new eyes and things will really be good to see then. But I see well enough to get back to some scrolling. This is a pattern my Tim @worbler . It is a great pattern. The Native American is Wolf Robe: "Wolf Robe or Ho'néhevotoomáhe (born between 1838 and 1841; died 1910, Oklahoma) was a Southern Cheyenne chief and a holder of the Benjamin Harrison Peace Medal. During the late 1870s he was forced to leave the open plains and relocate his tribe on to the Cheyenne and Arapaho Indian Reservation in Indian Territory." per Wikipedia. I also read somewhere he is the NA on the U. S. Buffalo nickle. I could not find where I read that. I did it in Bass Basswood which is soft and this piece was real soft, so I had to add a few bridges to keep everything in place. Thanks to Mr. Worbler for the fine pattern.

The first couple I made sold quickly so here are another three I hope to sell this weekend. Cut from reclaimed native New Zealand Rimu (aka Southern Red Pine) from old drawer boxes and finished with a semi-gloss spray. Thanks for looking, Rob

My first attempt at making a flag. I still need to put a finish on it. Not sure if I will use something from a can or maybe go a little thicker with a 2 part epoxy. I was gonna use a dremel and carve out the stars but went the easy way with some spray paint. I will use the dremel on my next one...maybe. Finish pics are in a post below.

5 layers, 3 mm MDF, size 7.5*7.5 inches pattern is available at https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

Thanks! Rimu is lovely timber, now protected but I can often find bits here and there. Sadly people are ripping out rimu kitchens from the 1940's and 50's and installing chipboard units. Here is my latest haul I picked up for $30 ($24USD, $27CAN). Rob

Back to doing Aircraft again (Lawson's taunt!) Always liked the Corsair. Aircraft went through lots of variations like regular canopy and bubble canopy and 3 and 4 bladed props. It was still being used by several countries into the early '50's. Cut on 1/8 BB with 1/4" backer. The design and lines are very thin and cowl flaps had me a little perplexed. It would have been tough to connect all the lines. Lettering went quick. Not sure what's next. They are predicting heavy snow in the upstate of SC this weekend so the car will go into the garage and I'll be out of the shop. Time to start hunting for some new patterns to cut.

The hockey stick is caused when the set screw and the thumb screw don’t meet in the center of your blade clamp. Because it is the bottom clamp, I usually sit on the floor so I can see. Back out the thumb screw and see where the set screw is, then just adjusting until centered. The only hard part about this is getting back up off the floor. Can’t help with the noise.

It's rained a fair bit here for the last few days so I've been trying to learn more about Inkscape as I think I could use it a lot. I love playing with words and the 'intersecting' words I find fascinating. I've made myself a couple of different types of pattern and this is the first one. There are things I'd do differently when I do it again, but it's my first attempt at putting a 'shape' into a pattern that's not a 'word'. Overall I'm pleased with it and can't wait to explore all the possibilities that this programme offers.

Made this herd of reindeer to take to the market show and sold them all before I left the house to a neighbour. I know what to make next year everyone keep asking for them as I put them on my facebook page.

Yes.

is the upper arm parallel with the table?

Just last night my Excalibur was baking a slight knocking sound. I figured out that it is the guard on the bottom of the saw rattling and hitting the table. I haven't had time to figure out how to fix it yet, but hopefully it will be easy.

The "hockey stick" end can also be the tip of the wing nut not rotating. It should move fairly easily. Started having that problem on my QuickClamp on my Hegner just yeaterday. I took the knurled knob out, clean the tip and put a drop of 3in1 oil on it. Wiped it good and replaced it. Fixed the problem. The knocking problem,, I would call Ray at Seyco. I bet even the lady that answers the phone could help if Ray is not around. Could check YouTube also, lots of info out there. But, a call to Ray would be quicker and probably a lot less trial and error...

Dave, long time lurker here. Not sure if this will help, but I had the same problem. On the back of the saw there is a nut that holds the tilt mechanisim from slipping. Mine had come loose and was causing the tilt mechanism to ever so slightly move. You can tell by grabbing the tilt wheel and trying to turn it when in another setting besides zero. The table should not move. Ed

I think someone else had an issue with a batch of Pegas that had a notch where they were breaking. Probably from the same run. The notch was where they were supposed to be cut to length. I agree with you Kevin I have used mostly Olson for the last 13 years and occasionally get a batch that breaks faster than normal. That is one of the many reasons I like my Hawk I pre-load a bunch of clamps with the current blade in use so that I have minimal interruption when in production mode.

Blade travel/aggression are interesting because in practice, as soon as your work piece touches the blade, the blade maintains contact with the wood (no longer travels), so what you actually have is very quick varying pressure. I do pretty fine detail on my coin cutting and detailed woodwork, so I don't think a tuned EX will cut any less detail than my Hegner. The game changes on the EX if travel get's way out of kilter because that introduces a "hammering/vibration" which I can't deal with, and I have to stop and fix it. If I leave that back knob alone, it stays tuned. My particular EX has less vibration at my normal speed (3/4) than my Hegner, so that helps with accuracy. There is one place where blade travel is incredibly bad, and that is with the use of spirals and moving the piece sideways. I would probably always use my Hegner with spirals. Once the EX is tuned, travel will be very little, but it can not be tuned to zero.

The bad batch of blade thing.... I wouldn't write off Pegas just yet.. they are awesome blades when they have the good ones.. and info for those new to the scroll saw world... in my 12 years of scroll sawing and monitoring these message boards.. Flying Dutchman and Olsen both have had bad batches of blades get past quality control a few times... just something that happens.. in most every business.. DnD from my understanding is replacing blades that was purchased from them if they are bad... I just going to use mine.. because most so far aren't too bad.. just a little frustrating being this time of the year and trying to get some production out and having to fuss with the blades.. I switched over to my FD-UR blades yesterday for a while.. My blades for the most part aren't breaking because of material failure.. the blades I have seem to be all different lengths and I have to cut them down.. as when sawing on the Hawk you bottom the blade out on both ends.. which I just now thought of something... this wouldn't affect me on my DeWalt.. cause the blade can hang out the top end of the clamp... Guess what.. I'm going to be cutting on today.. I think the once that do break are because I'm not getting them cut to the correct length which is changing the tension of the blade that = failure... no more failed blades today on the DeWalt I hope..

Neat work I made one for work and drilled holes in it to put some battery led lights in it and left it there for my fellow workers after I retired in August Roly

144 blades! Oh lord, I’m sure I’ll get there soon enough. So for other stuff like ornaments and “regular” projects that are not so intricate as a portrait I probalby wouldn’t need a spiral, unless the project is to big to make the turns in the saw. Seems like Flying Dutchman blades get lots of love. What other brands are good? I have Bosch now that I got from Lowe’s so I don’t know any better.

As you can plainly see only the men and the frame are scrolled. A bit of a departure from me usual stuff.

I’m overwhelmed! 0, 1, 3, 5, 7, reverse, skip, reverse skip, spiral, arrrggghhh!!! What is “skip” blades? Should I buy a set of each and see what I like best? I read that #3 and #5 will do anything you need - is that true? When/why would I use spiral? Are they any good? I read that some blades have sand paper on the sides - where do I find those or are they a waste of time? I asked this in a welcome thread but what is a “gross” of blades? I think that’s it for now... Thank you!!

I took 2 videos with my tablet while in the shed. Cutting out a letter B ornament. I’m looking for some critique on my scrolling. I’m having trouble making tight corners. Turning on a dime just isn’t working like it should I think. WARNING SHAKY VIDEO. I had my tablet on a bucket on top of my work bench to get a good angle. Had no idea it shook so much until after I was done. I’ll take no offense if you don’t want to or can’t watch it. I don’t blame you! I guess that goes to show how much the scroll saw is vibrating.

I also have a blade question, but I didn’t want to butt in on Toothpicks thread. I bought these spiral blades from Lee Valley Tools recently they are called Tornado. Has anyone heard of these, is there somewhere on line that I could order them. I have looked online for them and did find them on eBay in the UK but maybe there is somewhere closer to me These spiral blades are my new favorite. Irene

Made this one for my customer who wanted it for his mate Fatty as a birthday present. I put this one under glass as it has a few very delicate pieces in it ,I also made the frame out of red gum. Cheers Peter

This is an original pattern made from a picture the client took. It is a picture of a chapel her father built and it will be a Christmas present for him. I'm still not sure of myself in the pattern making department, but I think this turned out ok. 1/4" Maple w/ a stained BB backer. Used mostly FD UR #1, the tiny holes in the roof were done with FD New Spiral 2/0. 10"x10 1/2"

When you have to start pushing on the wood instead of guiding it.

It’s a Bosch blade from Lowe’s. 20 TPI. All I could find in town. I have 1, 3, and 5 Flying Dutchman Scroll Reverse on order. I scrolled 15 initial ornaments with that blade. Went through about 4 of them, a few broke. Is there any way to tell when your blade is dull or is that just a feeling thing?

First practice on some scrap wood. You don't even need a pattern. Do as Ray describes but I would add, at the end of the turn before you proceed pause to allow the blade to "catch up" with your turn. You will see or feel it complete the turn. I talking a fraction of a second pause. After some practice it becomes natural.

Come on now Dave. You bought a "used car" and there are little things that might not be like a new one. Take your time and once it's all ironed out, you will be very happy. Sort of like kids. You gotta work with them to make them what you want. Sorta.

That dumb guard rattled on mine too.. and I moved it this way and that and it would stop for a bit but then must have vibrated back or something... The last time I moved it it hasn't rattled since.. because I move it far away from the saw and in a box of parts that'll go with the saw if I should decide to sell it one day, LOL

very nice

The hockey stick is due to the lower clamp adjustment. The knocking noise, could be a worn bearing. Had that issue when mine was under warranty and Ray got me straighten out. Take the blade out and gently move the arms to detect any play if you find any you probably found the issue. Really hard to describe, but a call to Ray at Seyco will be very helpful. Do you have the manual for it Dave ? It will be helpful also. If you need the manual I have electronic copies I can send you.

Love the Trees and that wood !.....Nice work !

I have an old chest of drawers here also.I got a couple of trivets from one drawer so far..After Christmas,going to rip the rest of them apart... Its gold to us for sure ..

Beautiful piece Paul!! You did a great job. Is that live edge on the edges of the wood? Looks fantastic. Great pattern Timothy.

Very festive trees Rob. I like them. What a score on the cabinet pieces.

That one will be appreciated by your customer and his friend, you did a fabulous job. Marg

You did a fantastic job on the pattern and your letter cutting skills have really improved a lot. Well done. Marg

I was just about to say, that the snowman was holding a plant in his hand so I guess you ticked that box, but I was beaten to it. Great work Judy. Marg

"D and D Woodcrafts". https://www.dndsawbladesonline.com/ good place that sells Pegas blades. I hope they get this taken care of.

Thanks! But I still have time to screw it up! LOL

The red and blue both are water based stain. Initially I didn't burn the Union area but it was too clean and bright compared to the stripes. So I went back and lightly burned it after the stars were on. I burned the red stripes before the stain.

Very nice! I have a couple of patterns similar to yours I will try one day. Hopefully they are at least half as good as yours.

There is a blade chart put out by Olsen. I can't remember where I got it but it is very helpful. Dick aka spotsdad

Flying Dutchman, Olson and Pegas blades are the ones most commonly used, with FD & Olson the most popular, but Pegas seems to be gaining fans. There are several on-line sources for blades. Wooden Teddy Bear sells both Olson and FD. I'm also of the opinion that no brand has the best blade in every size and tooth configuration, so again, you will need to experiment a bit to see what you like best.

Nice work on the Christmas trees. These should sell well too.

Very nice indeed Peter, Will look great hanging on the wall!!! Thanks for posting, Bob

You did well on your pattern Brenda, and a very neat job on cutting out them thar letters!!! Thank you for showing, Bob

The motor has screws that you loosen to let you turn the motor. Put a piece of wood 1x1 or 2x2 behind the blade an run the saw. As it is running turn the motor until the wood doesn’t bounce with the blade hitting it. The back knob is to adjust the aggressiveness of cut. I set mine so the arm measurement is the same from arm to table at the back as the front. The front tension level you adjust by having the level in off position an turn the small set screw so it just touches the housing THEN turn 1/4” more. You will have same tension each time you use it. Hope the helps you.