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I stacked cut three of these in 1/8 inch BB (12 x 16) for Christmas presents. The pattern is by Charles Hand and as designed, has 260 cutouts. I had to add a few bridges to stabilize some areas and to add the US flag at the bottom which resulted in a total of 297 cutouts. I copied the use of the flag at the bottom from an earlier post of this pattern by Scrappile (Paul). Comments and mild criticism welcome. Keith

Bear pattern by Charles Dearing, 11 X 19, Old miner by @neptun 9 X 14, both stack cut 1/8 and 1/4 BB pw. Knitting cat from Sue Mey 8 X 9, stack cut three 1/8 BB pw. Jeff

G'day all, Made a few decorations for tomorrow's markets. We'll see how they go Head Frame- left Jarrah, Right Pine My 1st Christmas -Left Sandal Wood, Right Oregon Peace-= Hoop Pine Ply Noel - Left Pine, Right Jarrah Just have to thread ribbons through them. The baby photo is my Grandson, He will be 14 on Wednesday. Time doesn't stand still for no man.

This little lantern I made as a gift for my wife. I am a completely new scroller. So i was very proud of me for being able to complete this.

The tray and the dragon are separate designs from Steve Good I combined. I made three of the cherry and six of the walnut. They go to various family members.

The pattern was made by Bobscroll. A woman asked for it to be made for her grandson. Said he was named after the James River in Tennessee. Don’t know why but didn’t question grandma lol. Made with red oak, bb backer an maroon construction paper in between. Thanks Bob!!

This is a Steve Good Pattern , had these glued for some time before I decided to try it , all 1/8" BB material with a 1/4" Walnut backer that sits on the interior cover that's glued to the outside lid for the box which is also Walnut material. Made two of these - my wife was going to give both of them away for presents . I ask her if she wanted one she'd better keep one of them - cause they were a little of a pain to cut and she decided to keep one for herself . I've had a big call to price and make them, not saying I'm not going to make more but wow got to figure a far price to ask for them since there really a time consuming project . I want to be far to the customer as well as to me that's doing all the work ......

Well, unfortunately it appears my final event of the year is going to be rained out tomorrow. My show 2 weeks ago was also rained out. These two rained out events going to cost me a ton of money (140 puzzles expected to have sold at these 2 events). Fortunately this is just a side "hobby" for me as I have a full time day job whereas other local arts & craft vendors I know depend on these events for a living. But, it's just a fitting end to a very wet year here in Mayberry Beach. Average rainfall 57 inches a year. Previous all time record from 1877 was 85 inches... we're about to hit 100 inches possibly this week... total of 8 events missed due to rain or due to Hurricane Florence and others shortened or lowered attendance due to rain during events. Only ended up able to do 20 events this year. Below are my stats for the year for those curious. Stats for 2018: Total puzzles sold = 1112 Average 55 sold per event Worst event 17 puzzles sold Best event 178 puzzles sold (2 day event) 172 different animals/dog breeds sold Top 30 items (listed below) accounted for 50% of all sold Top 10 items accounted for 25% of all sold Top 30 in order: (CB and Topsail items are local specialty items) Unicorn Dachshund Mermaid Shark Dragon Rescue Elephant Golden Giraffe T-Rex Sea Turtle Beagle Yeti Black Lab CB Mermaid Labrador Shepherd Topsail Turtle Aussie KittyKitty Buffalo Manatee Pelican Pitbull Topsail Mermaid CB Pelican Chihuahua Corgi Doodle Retriever Time to start stockpiling for 2019 based on above list. Iggy

Just finished up these plaques with crackle paint finish(wood glue is the secret).....1x8 lumber for main plaque with a routed fancy edge......name & decorations are 1/4" sanded ply painted black.....pleased with the way they turned out......2ft wide.....used "Bigtop" font on this one.....Comments are always appreciated. Thank you

A present for my Mom, who did American Sign Language interpretation for the deaf for MANY years. I never inherited her knack for languages, so I'm pretty much stuck with the alphabet and a few choice signs usually reserved for driving. A couple of ornaments, the snowman was for my wife, and the Christmas tree went to a friend. Some more ornaments, Steve Good 3D patterns I thought would be a fun and easy cut. They were. Alex Fox pattern, a gift for my sister to go on her Wall O' Crosses. A gift for a friend of my wife's, sorta a memorial for her friend's Mom.

I made this for my daughter for Christmas. Her cat died earlier this year so I made this for her and named it the Lillie Tree. Marg

Made this from 1/8" BB Plywood with another layer of 1/8" BB Plywood painted flat black and build a pine frame that were all glued too for myself , patten came from a friend that of course shared the pattern with me . It really looks better in person , it's 12"by 12" in size . Any comments welcomed

Cut these six deep (1/8") to benefit a scholarship fund. Designer is Volker Arnold.

Please don't be concerned about asking basic questions. This is a friendly place and all questions are welcome. You aren't the first to be confused by the blade designations and descriptions, so don't feel bad about it. First keep in mind that the blade numbering system is not universal among manufacturers. A #3 reverse tooth blade from one manufacturer may not be exactly the same size as a #3 revere tooth blade from a different manufacturer. How's that for confusing? We're only talking thousands of an inch difference, but it is important to note. Think of it in relative terms. The smaller the number, the smaller the blade. If a blade size is indicated with a 0, such as a 2/0. this is smaller than a #2. Each manufacturer will list the dimensions and TPI (teeth per inch) count in their descriptions, so you can always determine just how large each blade is. The "R" in a description usually denotes a reverse tooth blade, as opposed to a skip tooth blade. There are several types of tooth configurations and again, not all manufacturers will use the same system to describe them, so it's important to read their detailed descriptions, which can be usually found on the supplier's website and/or catalog. They often include pictures of the tooth configuration to help. The Skip Reverse tooth blade you refer to is one that has larger spaces between the teeth, like a conventional skip tooth blade, but also has some reverse teeth on the bottom. I know Olson brand has a #2 reverse tooth blade. I don't think Flying Dutchman does. Again, if it is really important, take note of the actual dimensions for an exact comparison of blade sizes. Hope this helps.

I never knew there was anything called 'scrollsaw fonts' I must go and search them out. I use https://www.dafont.com/ and just look for what I like.

I made “Tree Scenery” designed by @worbler I switched it up a little. I wanted it to stand on its own without the cutout pieces, but that wasn’t working so I put the cutout pieces back in.

Back to doing Aircraft again (Lawson's taunt!) Always liked the Corsair. Aircraft went through lots of variations like regular canopy and bubble canopy and 3 and 4 bladed props. It was still being used by several countries into the early '50's. Cut on 1/8 BB with 1/4" backer. The design and lines are very thin and cowl flaps had me a little perplexed. It would have been tough to connect all the lines. Lettering went quick. Not sure what's next. They are predicting heavy snow in the upstate of SC this weekend so the car will go into the garage and I'll be out of the shop. Time to start hunting for some new patterns to cut.

Hi all, Hope all is well at your end. As I always mention that I am a beginner in the world of scroll saw and this is the reason why my questions here are very basic. They are so elementary that it me sound stupid to people with your level of experience. I am sorry for that. So this time I am really confused about the different sizes of blades. I read number of different classifications online and know about the types. I also know that there are different sizes but i don't understand the way they write it - like Skip Reverse Blade Size 3 R. what is "R" stands for? Is there any size 2 blade too because I have seen that only few times during my online research. Please help me with this. Thanks in advance. Regards. Ash

Kevin, Correct. There is scrollsaw, scrollsaw2 and scrollsaw3. I have them on my computer and can use them in Inkscape. They came with the Pattern Printer? Been a long time since I have had them. I do not remember how I got them into Inkscape fonts. I believe they have to be added to the fonts program on the computer. Larry

well shoot I obviously downloaded the font at one time or another, since I have it as a true type font installed, but darned if I can find it. attached is it I think, a truetype font scrollstencil.ttf

Thank you!

Deciding on blades was the hardest part of scrolling for me. I ended up buying a verity pack of Flying Dutchman. Tried different sizes and tooth configurations out and that got me in the ball park of what I liked best. Several years later, I have some favorites, but I also like to buy different ones to try. Sometimes I end up with a new favorite.

Bill is spot on with his explanation. I will repeat a bit here. Here is a copy of the most comprehensive blade chart that I have come across. Unfortunately the "universal blade numbers" such as 2/0 r or just a simple blade number #3 is not the same for all manufacturers. You really need to look at the number of teeth per inch (TPI) when making a comparison. An example a 2/0 R pegas blade with 13 TPI or a 2/0 R blade with 28 TPI will cut very differently in speed and control ability. SS_BLADE_CHART_2-22-2013.pdf

I actually used a #1R Pegas modified geometry(13.7 TPI) ) for cutting the parts on my last intarsia piece. 3/4 Poplar, walnut, cherry. maple, wenge. It is a thin blade and performed extremely well. I normally use the Olson Mach 3 for this. The Pegas is .004" thinner, insignificant but every bit helps when eliminating gaps. Especially when doing segmentation pieces. I did try the 2/0 R (15 TPI) for cutting my very detailed ornament stacks. They were a bit too aggressive and I went back to my old standby Olson 2/0 R (28 TPI) much slower but much easier to control. I will play more in the off season. It all comes down to what you are comfortable with.

Never apologize for asking a question. No one was born a expert (though some may think they did) so all had to ask a question now an again. Welcome ask away!

Here's a chuckle! Just got finished cutting Steve Good's firetruck word art pattern from a few months ago. Was doing a little sanding etc when I noticed a wisp of smoke. Did a quick perusal of the garage and nothing. About a minute later, even more smoke and the smell of burning plastic. Then noted that my control section of my scroll saw was the source even though it was turned off. Immediately unplugged, but the smoke was still coming forth. Now get this one guys and gals. My magnifying light unit was perfectly lined up with the setting sun through the open garage door. This was the source of heat to start my saw a burning (not my bad cutting). Moved the magnifier and the melting and smoke stopped. Just a little warped plastic and the saw still works because the generated heat didn't reach the internal wiring and switches. Weird that this happened when cutting a firetruck. And brings back memories of when I was a silly kid and we would fry ants with a magnifying glass.

Thank you Melanie , I will probably do as you suggest. I looked at the Pegas super skip and thought the design of the blade with extra space between the teeth looked like it might work well in thicker hardwoods I use for compound ornaments. I am no blade expert by any means and thought maybe someone here had tried them. I have been using the Pegas modified geometry for a while and really like them for other purposes. Thanks again for your reply.

After reading a lot on the subject, I went ahead and ordered a gross of those FD Polar blades yesterday in 3 sizes. I hope they are and do what everybody says they will. It makes sense to have a blade with the capability to clear the dust out of the kerf as fast as possible. I have been using a reverse tooth blade with pretty good success but now that I think back, it was a problem. I hope there are a lot of answers to your post.

I also have a blade question, but I didn’t want to butt in on Toothpicks thread. I bought these spiral blades from Lee Valley Tools recently they are called Tornado. Has anyone heard of these, is there somewhere on line that I could order them. I have looked online for them and did find them on eBay in the UK but maybe there is somewhere closer to me These spiral blades are my new favorite. Irene

Nice job , have used that crackle finish before - really adds to your work!.

Kevin, check your email. I just sent them to you.

I think I got those scrollsaw fonts from the old Free For All forum, if I'm remembering the name right.

Dan they all stand out well. Nicely done. Are these meant for outdoor use?? Thanks for showing.

Well earned, my friend. Michaelangelo didn't start out painting chapel ceilings in Cistine, he started out with drawings his mother had to force a smile while putting up on whatever their equivalent of the fridge was back then. Yours....is excellent! Keep practicing, you can only get better!

Your usual outstanding cutting, Jeff! Sad that Charles Dearing is not doing patterns anymore. Looks like he is selling hats and shirts now. You can get a few of his from Bear Woods. That Old Miner is awesome, I well be cutting it some time...

Fantastic work!!!Love the Kitten.

Nice work, I love them all x

Wow I didn’t think once you buy a used saw off Craigslist that they would take back, that was a real gentleman. Lots of luck with it, maybe you should just buy another Hegner saw, RJ

Great advice Brad. I had no idea you taught. You never cease to amaze me.

Internet explorer has always been a problem with SSV because Internet Explorer isn't W3 compliant (basically the rules that govern the internet). Google Chrome and Firefox are much better with compliance and update on a regular basis. As a result, they have the newer technologies and treat the web formatting better than IE. I removed the pictures from your album description and put them inside the album. I added a step 7 in the instructions above for a little extra clarity. But it should do the trick. Let me know if you still have troubles.

Thank you for the warm welcome.

And a partridge in a pear tree! Trivet.

My contribution for this year. All given to friends and family. From upper left, clockwise... poplar, mahogany, soft maple, cherry.

P.S. what does DnD stand for?

Kevin I bought some Pegas blades at our local Home Hardware last week and I had three break all I did was turn the scroll saw on. I know quite a few people rave about Pegas blades, but I don’t think I will get them again.

Olson-scrollblade-chart.pdf Here is the blade chart Dick was referring to

I use FD Polar #5 or #7.

My go to for thick cutting like that would be the FD Polar #5.

Any blade with reverse teeth will tend to lift the work. For 3d you do n I think need the reverse teeth as the bottom of the work is not finish side. I use fd 5 non reverse.

That came out great. Doesn't look like it was an easy job to do.