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I used a pattern I'd gotten from Scroller Limited years ago. It was supposed to be mounted on rough cut wood, I had made some of projects of this type before and the rough wood is a dust magnet. I used 1/4" plywood for the background and used stencils to spray the snow and sky along with the clouds. The Santa and other things in the picture are cut from 1/8"BB plywood. I used diluted acrylic paint to stain the various parts of the picture. The frames are made from 1x2 pine, I cut a rabbit in the back for the plywood and a 1/8" groove to put glass in the front of the frame to keep dust out.

made this recently,cut it from 5mm ply,stack cut it 3 pieces, sheila landry pattern

My Aunt wanted coin banks for her grand kids. Just finished them up tonight. No pattern, just kind of made it up as I went. 4/4 cedar with acrylic panels up front and bb backer.

Finished this Firefighter Plaque, Sue Mey pattern.

I finished the Christmas Bells that I am going to go hang on the door knobs some of my family members. The bottom two are Mahogany and the top three are BB, two sprayed with gold color paint and backed with felt. The other stained and painted. These were really fun. I will hopefully get started earlier next year and give to more people.

Have been on holidays since last Thursday, Xmas shopping all done and the wife is happily quilting. Time to make some sawdust. Wolf by @Kenny Hopkins, saddle I found on Pinterest and three from Anniki Lykke Sorenson (saw the owl and elves patterns and had to cut them). Jeff

It would be the quality control the Pegas forces on the Taiwanese company that manufactures the saw. I have talked with a number of local manufacturers who use Chinese, Korean, and Japanese made components. They have to maintain constant quality control inspection procedures with the orientals. If they don't, I'm told, quality drops very rapidly. If Pegas wants to produce a quality product then their quality control procedures will, either insure that, or become another oriental made saw.

This is a very interesting discussion and I would like to add my two cents. I think the biggest reason we as scrollers have issues of one kind or another is because the manufacturers don't seem to care about making a better or more user friendly product. It appears they think they know it all and don't really care what we think of their products. When was the last time you got a request from a scroll saw manufacturer for your feedback on how they could improve their product? It seems to me once the product is on the market they can't handle the fact they might have screwed something up and God forbid they correct it. Gee they might have to announce a recall. LOL Look how long it took Hegner to acknowledge that the saw dust created on their saws should not be blown into the operators face. Boy that was a real expensive improvement that only took about 30 years to address and correct. The bottom line is if we want any of our scroll saws improved I guess we have to do it ourselves when possible. JMHO

Here is the first scroll saw project I did. Not showing is the pedestal that it is mounted on. 6 1/2 feet total height. 7 months from start to finish, but because of an eye problem, I can only cut for about 3 hours per day. No matter how complex a pattern you choose, you just cut one piece at a time, same as you have been doing in the past. jerry

I recently bought a second-hand scroll saw (Clarke) for my first foray into this part of woodworking. Old but barely used. Of course the bladder for the blower was shot. I can get replacements from the UK but at nearly 4 pounds they're expensive for what they are and getting them to South Africa makes it out of the question. I saw that people use aquarium pumps but came up with another solution I haven't seen elsewhere. Maybe it's been tried of done before, I don't know. I attached a bolt to the saw arm going through the hole in the metal cover to which is bolted a tap washer going into a short piece of PVC pipe with a plastic bottle top and pipe attached. What can I saw? It moves plenty of air. I can't say about longevity yet, but it's cheap and uses stuff I had lying around. Here's a short (un)professional video (hope this works). If you want to know more just ask, I'm happy with it and it will do the job. And, no, it doesn't suck VID_20181220_190359.mp4

I've not made any of these in a while and had a special request to get it blinged up, so I had a chat with my wife's friend (the one who did my wreath) and she came through and did this for me. Here are before and after shots.

My sales are finally winding down and I'm ready for a vacation .. I made a lot of money this year and going to go somewhere with the $30 worth of profit I made.. Anyone know a good spot to go in Michigan since I've got $30 to spend.. I have a family of 5 so thinking maybe McDonalds could be affordable.. I heard that sometimes you actually get change back when going there... I've never been there.. anyone verify that? be nice to feed all of us and get a little change back. I'm thinking.. if my profit keeps growing year over year... I bet in about 5-8 more years I'll be able to go to the McDonald's down in Indiana because I'll be able to put gas in the van too.. Whew Whoo.. Hoping everyone has done as good or better than I have this year..

After six months of learning and practicing with my scroll saw, I decided to tackle a big project and a Chritmas gift for my wife. My concern was cutting straight lines. For my previous projects I milled my own wood to size. For this project I wanted to use 1/2" Cherry with a Maple base. Right off the bat I started dealing with cupping which made it a lot more difficult to cut. Lessons learned from that. My best decision was to try the Pegasus modified reverse tooth blade. I cut the entire project with the 0/2. They did a great job of tracking a straight line. Anyway I'm pretty happy with the way it turned out.

This is a fretwork basket that I make, 1/4 cherry with bamboo toothpicks for the pins. My addition to the pattern was to extend the tenons and pin them with toothpicks (trimmed to length). There is no glue holding this together.

My first hanging Christmas ornament. This is a FREE Sue Mey pattern that I have wanted to try for some time. I stack cut 2 out of scrap mahogany. Thought I would try some painting of one to see how it would look. It is about 6" x 6", and I reduced it to 75% of the original size. Still a little big for a tree ornament maybe, depending on the tree. My wife is going to hang it with her Christmas reef. It was a tedious cut at this size. Not sure I could accomplish it any smaller.

I knew an old crow once er.. was that an old battle ax? I forget.

The author of this thread wants to know which scroll saw he should buy. I know I will get glorious feedback from members of the Hegner Cult about how they just love their saws so I will expect it. Some of you might think I'm just and old crank and that is probably true but I am still allowed to express my opinion I think. The first thing I will tell anyone willing to listen is Hegner is probably the most dependable reliable scroll saw on the market. Now why shouldn't it be as it is also one of the most expensive saws on the market? If you are willing to pay North of 16 or 17 hundred dollars for a scroll saw that doesn't contain many of the more desirable user friendly features of much less expensive brands go for it. I bought mine used for much less and it has served me well but knowing what I know now it would be a cold day in hell before I would spent the going price for a new one . Unless or until Hegner incorporates some of the more desirable features like a larger table, both top and bottom feed, more upper arm clearance. and lower blade clamps that can't fall on the floor they don't get my vote. Hegner could incorporate these features and still make a good profit. I don't believe its about the money maybe they just think they know it all and take it or leave it. Just my not so humble opinion and I'm sticking to it. LOL

Rocky you are a member over at IAP pen turning site and the same discussions come up there. We all said we hope the manufacturers would be following these forums and produce better pens. Still can not get a decent click pen. And yet all these cheap pens you get in the mail and what not work forever and no problems. Same with getting better platings. I am not sure that is the same company as the blades and not just a name of a saw. Will see. yes to Kevin about dust ports on saws but how many actually work and not a hindrance when it comes to blade removal. Hegner has had that swing down dust port for many years and is useless. That is a big complaint on those $100 saws there is no room under the table to work. We as scroller adapt things for our own needs but simple ideas can be incorporated on these saws. They are not coming through any cheaper in price for sure. It all makes for good discussions I guess. There must be enough room in the saw field to keep adding players so lets keep sawing.

I would hope manufacturers would pay attention to the discussions on this and other sites and learn what scrollers want.

Glad to see you posting again Brad. I'm even happier to hear your bride came through the knee replacement OK. I've had two and they are not exactly pleasant. Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and prosperous New Year!

I guess my project for 2019 is to get myself back in the shop. I have been out of the shop for some time now, and my granddaughter seems to think it's past time to get back to what I am kinda sorta ok at. I have a project in the works, and was just commissioned to create an Urn for a good friend of ours. My health is starting to level out, as well as it is going to, I reckon. I still have several limitations, but have tall expectations. I have to say, whether it is taken to heart or left at a stand still, is ok too, but, SSV has kept me going this past year. I appreciate the allowance of being able to be involved with the posts and subjects posted, although inactive in the shop. And, a couple of us have locked horns, and my sincere apologies, but I am who I am. As I have posted earlier, one of our granddaughter's and her two children have recently moved in with my bride and I. She is very excited about learning the scroll saw and woodworking! Her name is Desirea. She has been after me to get the dust cleaned out of the shop, and ALL the tools shined up she says;), and get things going again!:) While I am postin', my bride had full knee replacement surgery yesterday. The surgery went well, and she is doing fine.:) I brought her home from the hospital today! She is happily camped in her Laz-y-boy recliner watchin' her favorite show "Survivor" this evening.;) Sawdust703(Brad)

Yes, and just to make sure we are talking the same thing here is the link to it. http://theartfactory.com/product/train-depot-clock/ Use to be it had a component package that made the lights flash, train whistle, chugging sound. Mr. Boehlman's wife put the components together and sometimes you had to wait a couple weeks extra to get it. The package also included the clock movement if I remember correctly. I wish I had followed through and got it all when available... hot darn! You snooze you lose....

I do after and it does not run. Did it for years on the bottom of bowls I turned.

I'm glad you like the system on your EX, but most folks don't like the flimsy membrane that tends to make noise and catch small pieces, and most remove it soon after purchase. I removed mine day one, right after removing the hold down. Amongst the Ex Clones, Jet is the only one that I know of that redesigned that component, but I don't have any time on the Jet, so I don't know if it is better or not. -----Randy

Tall things can be a problem to place. Out grand father clock is 8 1/2' tall. It can only be in the vaulted portion of our home. We had a rubber tree plant years ago that had to bend when it hit the ceiling. The plant had to go. It was an amazing thing to see.

No nii.....

When I seen this pattern from Alexfox I said that looks fun. By the time I got all the pieces cut I was saying why lol. Wasn’t a hard project but I couldn’t find 4mm plywood that the pattern called for. So I got 5mm an run it through drum sander to take off 1mm. You have to be very close on your cutting for the pieces to fit snug.

Well I'm semi retired and wanting to stay busy. Scrolling seemed like and interesting thing to try my hand at.... I've done some other odds and end of wood craft, but nothing this challenging, Shape signs from fence boards and pallet wood. It started with a Craftsman middle of the road saw and quickly realized I'd like a quieter saw with less vibration. I've recently purchased a "Total Saw" 21" which is a PS Wood saw (or Sakura by an earlier name) It's a very nice quiet saw with seriously tiny vibrations! I need to clean it up a bit, put on a new rubber belt (it's a belt driven saw...). I might also want to add the more current "toolless" chuck on it. I've also, for no good reason, picked up a 26" older saw for $20, running, but needing a bit of help.

I now have both types but I guess it is academic for me since I'll be using painters tape in the wood from now on.

That is an interesting concept. Just wondering are you making contact with the washer on the side of the pipe if so is the washer rubber or some other material? It sure wouldn't be cost prohibitive. Just kidding thanks for showing us. I will be sure to follow this thread.

So a quick up date, the parts were shipped out very quickly and received in 3 days. As I mentioned I received a sort'a free DeWalt 788(V1), Payment for a debt I didn't expect to collect! I set it up on a wood work table inside and have been fooling around with it. It seems to have a bit more vibration than the PS Wood (I'm going to call the saw by it's current name). Of course it's not a fair comparison as the PS Wood was on a concrete floor and the DeWalt on a wooden table. Both were a lot better than my original cheap saw. The DeWalt is also a bit lighter (I think) the PS wood says a shipping weight of 85 lbs, but I think it's around 65 (guesstimate) It has a massive table, but it's made of aluminum also has a stand attached. I'm learning, I've heard aggressive being used in 2 terms, the cutting speed of the saw as well as the front to back motion and speed/stroke. From what I've read, the DeWalt has a lot of front to back motion and a 3/4 stroke and can run a bit faster. The PS Wood has a 1" stroke and a similar front to back motion, just from eyeballing and runs a bit slower speeds. I've lost the link/article but I understand there is a bit of adjustment in keeping the distance in the tensioner and the blade side can effect the front to back motion. If someone has read this and can point me to it, that would be neat. I love the mechanics of things. Unless I can make room, or we have a mild winter, I may not have much more info on the PS Wood until spring and my un-heated space.

I use a rubber stamp of a crow on the back. All my pieces are flat in the back so plenty if room. Write my name and the date under it. The crow is sort of my thing.

You are probably right. Will see when the first report of a problem comes to this board about that saw. Maybe we should hold a pool.

I have an branding iron that is heated by torch. Like it, but it can be to big of a signature for some things. Like Flarud stated, it can be hit and miss, so what I did is when I had it heated just right, I branded a piece of veneer several times. Then I cut the veneer when I need a signature and glue it in place. It even looks nice, especially it the back of the project is painted. When I don't have enough room for the branding iron signature I use a sharpie, or it have a signature I can print off the computer, onto decal paper. Ply it where I want it and spray finish over it. Then I have a set of Steve Good's medallions that I really like. I haven't had a reason to use them yet, but I will. Then there are lots of time I forget all about a signature.......

Bill, I think that is the same company. After seeing the quality that they put into the replacement blade clamps for the EX and the Dewalt/Jet/Seyco saws, I would expect the same degree of quality in their saws also. Their blades are among the best if not the best. With that in mind, I would hope they would demand that whoever is making their saws put the best quality control into the production.

I’ve got so many ideas for next Christmas. Adding these to the list. How did you attach the felt?

I use a combination of my initials and the year for just about everything I make, from Christmas ornaments to furniture. I usually use a fine point Sharpie, but have used paint pens before. Nothing fancy, but it's the same for everything.

ok not scrolling, but i plan to start making boxes with dovetails and not using any power tools, want to take a step back and work strickly using hand tools, RJ

Well there is always a hand crank street organ.. The project that stretched me the most, but worth all the work. You could incorporate lots of scroll work in the case, I did a little on the back of mine, it was built before I really got into scrolling, if I made another, it would have a lot more scrolling on it. There are also lots of beautiful wooden gear clocks or sculptures. I've been real tempted to do the Humming bird one, but the plans are $100. Too expensive for me right now, but it certainly would be a challenge. http://www.derekhugger.com/colibri.html These are for you to think about, personally, with some of the things in my life lately,,,, I want less stress, so mine will be simple things. I want to work on things like some nice Christmas ornamentals to give to family and friends next season. I have a few more difficult things in mind I'd like to try for me and my ego, but at this point in my life, and the stressful environment of things, I want to just relax, keep it simple and give where I can. This may all change,,,,,,, I do like a challenging project and the heck with the family and friends....

Thank you for your information. I have found the same shipping related problems with some states, like California too. There is a sight where a guy in Oregon has made some nice state plaque, of which I have sold a few. They are really nice also. The reason I bring this to your mind is because it might be a good place to go just to check out the state shapes. His name is Sam Custodio and all of his great patterns are free to download. I will attempt to post a link to his state map designs for you here. https://www.facebook.com/samuel.custodio.52/media_set?set=a.1917481571857302&type=3 I hope this works for you.. it may be worth a look Dick heppnerguy

Welcome to The Village. Nice to hear your idea about donating to help others in need of raising funds to help others as well. We have a man in our area who does that with toys for kids and his donations have raised of $15,000 over the years. Good plan.. I hope you make it work like the man I told you about Dick heppnerguy

I am fortunate to have a neighbor who has a business that builds exotic things for very high end houses. The make curved staircases, arches and other things. His dumpster is full of various hardwoods. He brought me an armload yesterday.

We could all do with a neighbor like him. Great score Les. Marg

Merry Christmas!!! Have fun with it!

Do you think you could convince your neighbor to move to the house next to mine?

Tung oil and shellac works great together, I used it on all my bowls.

Trust me Ray, you aren't the only one mystified by finishing. It's a very common problem among inexperienced and veteran woodworkers. Problem is, manufacturers aren't much help in clearing up the confusion. In fact, they contribute to it. Some products labeled "Tung Oil Finish" may not contain any actual tung oil. "Danish oil" is generally just a blend of varnish, oil (boiled linseed or tung) and thinner (mineral spirits). It's sometimes called "antique oil". "Tung oil finish" may be a blend, similar to Danish oil or it may simply be a wiping varnish (regular varnish thinned with about equal parts mineral spirits). There are no set rules when manufacturers name their products, so it will leave the consumer unclear as to that he is actually getting. It's all marketing and if the consumer can figure it out, more power to him. The books I mentioned earlier will explain all these differences at length and will go into plenty of detail on their relative strengths & weaknesses, when & how to use and just about anything else you could think of plus a lot of other stuff.

What a wonderful neighbor.

As long as it's good and dry, you can cover most finishes with shellac. That's one thing it used for is providing a barrier layer different finishes. From my experiences, poly goes over most oil finishes well, again as long as the first has cured. If the first isn't cured well enough the top coat can alligator... show crinkles and wrinkles. Poly and oil finishes share a lot of the same ingredients so they work well together.