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Here is a picture of the project with the burned edges, no finish on it yet, thinking of a couple of cost of Danish oil? I also cut a few napkins holders to remind me of winter. LOL

Finished this Eagle Flag from a pattern I had for years, made a couple changes.

Starting the new year with a refreshed saw. After watching the videos on how to grease the bearings, I finally got around to doing it! I also waxed the table. Did a test cut and it didn't blow up!!! lol

Our youngest grandson loves Groot and Rocket Raccoon from the movie Guardians of the Galaxy.

I designed a Christmas Arch and my German friend did a test cut. It has three layers. I, personally, would have placed the nativity itself in the center, but that is up to whatever the sawer would like to do.

I needed a place to hang our keys and then I had an idea. And off to the workshop I went; maple and walnut.

I have it I got it in the Machine shop. I have never had surgery It's not that bad, but I use a carpel tunnel brace , and I use the lever that Steve Good has on his Long list of patterns. now it only bothers me if I saw for a long period. I usually take a 1/2 hour brake every couple hours. I have had 3 operations for cancer and not ready for a nother one.I had a check up on the 21st and am cancer free now. IKE

Made this yesterday.....our local HS......measures 24”W x 16.5” T...comments always are good...ty D4458D78-4DFD-4F57-BFFD-A63D554D2338.MOV

Yes Ray same thing. The Hegner is metal. Why that has never been upgraded is a mystery because they do become stretched and what happens the clamp can slip to the notch that you do not want it in which is probably the more aggressive cutting mode. I know right away if that happens so I move it. But with the spring steel one it rarely happens, unless I set it there from the get go. Not sure what the new saws have and Kevin will give us all a report when he gets his new saw.

That’s bad, sorry. I liked the movie with Hannibal Lector. I found the picture so I had to cut it. It will defiantly be in the garage. My sister in law liked it though. I was a good movie.

They were bushings the last time I looked at mine when all apart.

It still could be bushings.. many manufactures will call bushings bearings.. they are a type of bearing in some cases.. they are made from self lubing brass and require no lube.. I don't know whether they are.. just saying..

Okay, I am mistaken. I know you all find that very hard to believe, and I thought I had made it through 2018 without making one... BUT I was just working at my Hegner and I looked at the sticker on the top arm. It says oil bearings..... I do not know where I got the idea they were bushings.... Darn I was so close to a perfect year... Sorry!

He is right, I use to store mine in the refig, when I had larger quantities. I had forgotten that.

Store it in the fridge. I have a bottle of medium that is 3 years old and still flows and sets just fine. Keep the nozzle as clear as possible. I get it at hobby town

Yeah, like now I'm a videographer? NO thanks.

Another way to clear the nozzle is to squeeze the container when it is upright, you can hear the air come out and go back in when you release the pressure on the container. Do not look down the little hole when you do it! I squeeze several times and let it suck the CA in the nozzle back into the bottle. I agree, unless you are going to use a lot, get it in small portions. When I was doing pens, I bought the larger quantities, but for occasional use I buy small. I get mine locally at Hobby Town USA. It is rebranded under their name. They do not make it. Normally I buy medium thickness.

I've always gotten what Rocker sells. Thin and medium viscosities and their spray accelerator. I'm usually pretty happy with their stuff. Once exception has been their saw blade / router bit cleaner.

Ray, I’m not going to recommend any brands, bit the rule of thumb is to use an accelerator of the same brand. The accelerator is jut that, it instantly sets up the CA glue. If you are looking for a two part adhesive, you want an epoxy. Not the same thing. When glueing with CA, apply the glue, assemble your work, then spray the accelerator. It should set up instantly. As far as keeping the glue from setting up in the bottle, I buy the smallest bottle available. One trick that has worked is to tap the bottom of the bottle on the bench to force the glue back into the bottle. Also, never touch the tip onto the workpiece. Wipe off any glue on the spout. But most importantly, keep the CA bottle away from the area while spraying the accelerator so it does not get near the bottle tip.

Whatever brand of CA you buy I recommend using the same brand accelerator. I do not like using an accelerator. It is really unnecessary except in unusual cases. CA comes in thin, medium and gel or thick. It depends on what you are using it for. When using the CA I use, after use I give the bottle a sharp rap down on the bench causing the CA to clear the nozzle and replace the cap. This only works with the thin stuff. Sometimes a small nail or wire in the orifice helps for using it the next time.

No it is not an epoxy . It is Cyanoacrylate Adhesive ( aka) Super Glue. The activator is sprayed on the joint to set the adhesive instantly

I use the Stick Fast brand from Rockler, it seems to work well and lasts a long time if kept cool, It comes in 2oz bottles.

I went back and added that to my original response... after thought lol. I know that Woodcraft carries a brand of CA, but I'm not sure which.

There are so many of these saws out there and it was a good thing someone took the time to make a video to show the workings and the procedure to take apart to do a maintenance thing on those saws. You do not see this for other saws. Or at least I have not. Glad you got things working in top form again and you did not have any extra parts laying around. Hate when that happens.

Well then if it works for you then keep doing it. I have never oiled mine.

The Hegner has bushings and the manual says to put a few drops of oil (light oil like 3 in 1) on them periodically. I do.

Kevin the bearings I took out of my saw were what you called cage bearings(open on one side). They were ball bearings with no grease in them at all. I put grease in them before I put the saw back together. I'm like you I don't see how any oil would get inside them without taking the saw apart. There was no sawdust at all In the bearings so it must be a pretty tight fit.

It's amazing how much smoother my saw ran when doing this... and I thought it was pretty smooth before doing it.. When I first did mine it was more of a pre-maintenance.. but I did find some bearings / bushings starting to get some wear that I replaced.. Good high quality synthetic grease has kept it running smooth for several years of production cutting.. but it's got some wear issues going on again as it's getting some slight noise.. I bought all the stuff to rebuild the complete saw with new bearings and sleeves a year ago.. still haven't done it.. but I no longer use the saw much now either, LOL

Some I have have the very top cut like that, but I have not run across any yet that have the notch cut into it.

Mine was all fingers also. Hasn’t been numb sence surgery.

JT, the saw I was referring to the was my RBI 226 Ultra!! thanks for the info

It is not really hard. Just take it slow and easy. Having a magnetic tray to place parts is very useful. It really saves the knees when crawling around the shop floor looking for dropped screws.

Roger I do not use it on scrollsaw bearing. Most scrollsaw bearings are enclosed and sealed and should not need lubrication because you are not going to be able to get any in anyway. Usually when bearings go on a scrollsaw they need replacing. I mentioned the use of that stuff for ball bearing items such as router bits. Scrollsaw bearing are mainly needle bearings and the best lubricant for those is grease. A good quality grease made to take heat. Many times bearings like that get repacked but if sealed you are not getting apart. Now that spray is good for pivot points that rub and I suggested to someone instead of taking his bearings out to try some of that before he removes them He is not going to be able to spray in there. It is better than oils if there is no reservoir for the oils. (motors are different because they have a reservoir to hold oils. ) What scrollsaw are you referring to??

I meant scroll saw not escrow!!!

JT, you mentioned the use of Bostik bearing lubricant, how does that work as an oil lubracant on escrow saw bearings. I bought a can today at the Woodcraft store !! Is it better than using light weight oil, I have never seen any thing like it so thought I would ask . It's not cheap, 18.00 for a 5.5 oz can. Would be interested in knowing how much better than oil it might be. thanks Roger

I am Groot! I am Groot. I am Groot? I am Groot, I am Groot. I am Groot? I am Groot! I am Groot.

Very nice cutting Rob. Nice smooth lines on the turns. That takes some practice.

Good luck on the surgery. ".

The biggest clue for carpal tunnel is that it only affects the thumb, index finger and middle finger. It does not affect the two outside fingers (these nerves don't pass though the carpal tunnel) I was diagnosed 30 yrs ago, never had surgery, stopped doing the things that annoyed it (lots of hammering, extended periods of touch typing), scrolling doesn't seem to bother me much (your mileage may very).

Yup, had the Carpal Tunnel deal years ago. BUT, do to pruning too many apple and peach trees. Plus potting up cacti and succulents in the greenhouse. CT surgery in the early 90's. Been scrolling since 2000 and no problems yet. And I am in production mode big time with puzzles. Wear out a DeWalt 788 in 12 months. The biggest problem is sanding re CT - still no symptoms yet. bb

I had thought I was developing Carpal tunnel but when I went to the Doctor it was determined arthritis. Not surprising since It is most of the body. One knee replaced and the other soon will be done. Pain for me is in the thumb joints and worsened after scrolling. I think besides the thumb screws I used at Dewalt in the beginning and the tensioning and untensioning would result in pain in joints as well on the Ex 21. Splints help a small amount but not much.

Probably similar to the spring retainer clip on the lower blade clamp on the Hegner. Something that could be easily upgraded by Hawk.

Plastic piece that goes on the lower arm to keep your blade holder from falling on the floor when there is no tension on the blade... or if you break the blade the blade holder stays put so you don't loose it... I think I've read of other saws that if the blade breaks sometimes the lower blade chuck comes up missing, LOL..

I guess I should learn to read a bit more closely. I had thought the Hawk had a new type clamp. MY BAD!

Great job! Do you remember where the pattern came from? Ah, never mind, I can not buy any more patterns..... Oh that was too easy, I do see the WTB has it and another one similar. I like them both, I will not buy, I will not buy......

Clever project! Very nice.

Nice idea and great job Monti. Jeff

That is really nice! An interesting addition would be to add a G clef with the adjoining notes above the keys or notes to your favorite song. A great trick question for visitors (that can read music) I like it!

very nice

I made these ornaments for our 12 old grandson cause he plays a trombone in the school band.And he is so proud of his trombone.