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A couple of weeks ago I posted a musical Treble Clef, I believe they are called and gave it to one of my neighbors as a gift because he is into music and has a group of men come to his house almost weekly to share their musical talents with one another. Well, he told me that he liked it so well that he wanted to buy two of the them to decorate his music room wall. He wanted one the same size as the one I gave him and one larger. He wanted them with the same backer board colorization that I made his first one. So, here is the end results of his request. Dick heppnerguy

I had an order for a John Wayne from my granddaughter for her new found dad. After I had it cut and ready to mail off, I got looking at it and decided I would also like one for my wall. So I cut one just for me and since I am trying to learn to make frames, I decided to go ahead and give it another try for my John Wayne. So here is my shot at both of them. I know I need to keep practicing those frames but who knows, maybe, just maybe I will figure those darn things out Dick heppnerguy

Last week when helping my brother that owns the Sawmill find a new motor for his skid steer he mentioned that he was going to be sorting grade lumber this week and I need to come pick the scrap bins or the cutoffs go in the wood burning stove. So today before going to pick up my CNC I thought I’d see what he had. I saved quite a lot of cherry and a few pieces of Oak from being burned up. Should be able to put this to good use. Couple of the pieces I grabbed as scraps for the mistakes I’ll be making on my CNC trying to learn it.

Finished up a POW*MIA sign to replace a damaged one at a Facebook friend's VFW. Letters/star/filigree(?) and POW/tower are done out of 3/8" BBply. The backer is 1/2" rough ply scrap that I found at Lowes, a cutoff piece I got for free. It sanded smooth, so I'm happy. Frame is....pine? 2x2 I ripped in half(ish) lengthwise and probably took about 6' worth of wood to make. Frames always seem to surprise me with how much wood they consume. Also with how high my blood pressure gets when making those friggin things.

My wife is redecorating our spare bedroom and wanted these plaques for her wall. So I made her a couple. I cut them on 1/8 inch BB Ply and once again tried to make a couple of frames to put them in. I used a FD double tooth #5 blade to cut them. I did have the sense to double stack them so that helped both to cut them and to save me time. I have wanted to cut this pattern for about 3 or 4 year now so I am glad to finally get to them Dick heppnerguy

Downloaded this pattern from this site. Thought I would give it a try. cut from old cabinet a door.

Hi all! Sorry for my English. Now for the text I use Google translator. Found a link to this site in the Russian forum. A few years ago I had a dream to buy myself a motorcycle. When choosing a chopper, I looked at the photo on the Internet. And I saw the cover of "Woodworks Crafts" from June 2007. I was very impressed with the picture of a sawn motorcycle. My second dream was to learn how to make such complex patterns. Good schemes in Russia are hard to find. In our country, this hobby is poorly developed. I had to learn myself. Update scroll saw (jet jss-16a), draw patterns and saw. Now I have a lot of work, and not enough time for time for a hobby, but I want to learn how to draw patterns even better. I hope my humble skills will be useful to this forum. Thanks to everyone who read this text. Sorry if there is a translation error.

Cut this one as my first of 2019. Hoping this year the fish create tight lines for me and everyone else who loves fishing.

You may remember that I posted a John Wayne last week that I made for my granddaughter to give to here father. After finishing it and getting it ready for mailing , I decided to make one for myself. So I did and I also decided to try and make one of those pesky frames for it.. I should stop pestering myself with the frames but I am determent to try and figure those out. Anyway here is the results Dick heppnerguy

Last week I did the final cutting on one of the biggest scrolling project I have undertook. I still have the sanding, mounting and finish to do on that project, but I needed a break from it. At about the same time I read @Foxfold's post of a compound cutting video. I started watching it and decided to go check out the guy's site. ( JEPlans.com ). Compound cutting fascinates me because I am always surprised how you cut the pattern, take the block of wood apart and here is a neat little whatever it is you were hoping you would have. I look around the site and find a pattern for a pretty simple, but cute nutcracker, like for the ballet. When my daughter was little she danced in it a few years as she progressed through ballet classes. It was always fun to go watch her and all the little ballerinas. So I thought it would be fun to make for her and bring back some memories for her. This was really fun for me to make. All pieces are compound cut. His plans are very well done and he has a Youtube video on making this project. The plan give you a choice of 2 sizes to make. This is the bigger one, stands 7" tall. The plan was $3. So here he is in all his glory. Sorry I am not much of a painter, and boy I did not realize how shaky I am. I would like to do another some day, a little more detailed and bigger. The hair was the hardest part to cut, I could not believe it came out of that little block of wood when I was done.

This Heart of Hearts is cut from the side of an old drawer box and as yet has no finish. It is about 15 x 15cm or 6 x 6 inches. Pattern is from Free Patterns Area Thanks for looking, Rob

You've gotten a ton of good advice in this thread. Compound cutting isn't really all that difficult, but several factors come into play that aren't as important when cutting thinner stock. One piece of advice I have not seen posted yet pertains to the positioning of your pattern. Applying the pattern precisely is absolutely critical to getting a good, finished piece. IMHO, it's just as important as all the other great tips you've gotten so far. I take great pains to ensure that my pattern is aligned correctly on the blank. I won't go into detail, because people will think I'm nuts, but trust me, it's important. You can have your table precisely at 90%. Your stock may be perfectly perpendicular. Your cut may be flawless. But if the pattern is even slightly skewed on the blank, then your end result will not be symmetrical.

The reason you were not on the site has been well explained, a picture is worth a thousand words. Excellent work Dick and again you have the patience of a saint.

Being from West Virginia, I am obviously a huge Mountaineer fan. So, a lot of things I cut have to do with that. Here are 2 new things that I just got done cutting. They still need poly, but finished otherwise.

One problem may be the blade you are using. Please try a skip tooth blade perhaps a #5. Thicker wood needs different blades. I think this would help.

This was a big seller for the Christmas season and the orders have carried over into the New Year so it was the first project done for the year. A Charles Dearing design.

I am not new to woodworking but still very much a beginner in many areas. I started with a shopsmith in 1987. I bought a scroll saw for it and used it for awhile but moved on to other areas of woodworking as needed. I enjoyed scrolling and always thought I would up grade and get back into it. A few weeks ago I seen a Dewalt on Craigslist. I went to look at it and brought it home. Now I’m learning all over again. I'm looking forward to learning some tricks here.

I did it like this also because with the new Pegasus bottom blade holder I’m now able to use the bottom reverse teeth on all my blades. Any added thickness to the existing table would make it so I would loose that ability

Step №3 You need to paste the cut pieces back onto the paper tape to support the fragile parts. The photo on the left shows the trim that I have left. Then stick the second part of the pattern.

It was a lot of eyeballing and guesswork, having a photo of a flag up on my cellphone and nudging letters around before the glue set. I sorta decided that the "not" was centered at the bottom, got that down first, then worked outwards from there. Found out that my spelling sucks even more when spelling a word backwards. Thank you all!

Hope you packed a lunch starting these!!! Very very nice cuts!!!

In that case where you have a insert that is removable I understand.. but what the original poster here did was fill a hole with JB weld.. so he's not taking it out for the blade changes.. I've made inserts in the past for my old Delta and Dremel saws that required a insert and did as you do for blade changes.. BTW, anything more than two saws is a waste anyway as you only have two hands.. Now.. If I could line them all up and somehow attach something to each of my projects so i cut on one saw and the others follow along with my one cutting... now that would be some production cutting right there..

Red saws cut faster!

Hi Brenda. Yes, a bigger size blade is in order. I have cut plenty of compound cutting. The blade that works for me is a FD Polor #5 or #7. The Polor blade is a skip tooth blade. It also has slightly longer teeth to help clear the sawdust. For me, a little more saw speed works better, and I always use my cutting jigs like Scott @NC Scroller showed. In addition to having the blade and table square to each other, it is important to have your wood blank completely square. I agree with using clear packing tape, but don’t wrap it. Apply it smoothly to the pattern then burnish it with a plastic putty knife or a small wooden block. Otherwise sawdust will build up under the tape and obscure the cutting line. I have seen your work and you are progressing very nicely. Don’t give up! I know you can do it!

I made this for my mom. It is about 17” tall and about 12” wide. It’s kind of hard to see because of the glare, but it has the names of our whole family. It took about 10 hours to cut, but well worth it.

Brenda, two things come to mind. Actually three. First and most important, make sure you have your table absolutely perpendicular to the blade. It must be. Second, make sure you have your blade tensioned correctly. Third, use a blade that will move the sawdust out of the kerf as quickly as possible. You don't need a reverse tooth blade. A skip tooth blade is probably best. And something a bit on the coarse side. I offer this because after cutting the 8 side panels on the piece I showed the other day, I learned all of the above. Keep at it, you'll figure it out. One other thing, let the blade work. Don't push too hard or it will "bow" the blade and make sure you aren't pushing to either side.

Its another learning curve Brenda. Small changes needed. maybe a different blade to start with. Bob

Hi all I just made myself a zero clearance insert for my jet scroll saw and wanted to share with you all how I did it. The link below will take you to the video I just posted on YouTube .

Step № 4 This is what 1/4 of your product looks like. Using steps 1, 2, 3 it is necessary to cut out the remaining parts of the wooden bars. Then glue the resulting parts in this order: 1 + 2 and 3 + 4 You need to glue the side where you had pasted the pattern before. When the product dries, it remains only to polish and clean the gluing points. P.S. If you still have questions, I will answer them with pleasure.

I will make separate messages with the number. It will be № 1 So, you need 4 pieces of wood and several copies of the pattern cut along the dotted line. Half of the pattern is glued to the corner of the bar.

Well you could do it easily but there is a slight giveaway. On my saws I have made 1/8" thick auxiliary table top and my inserts are the same thickness. I did this so I could have the inserts and in addition it gives me a larger table top for my Hegner. The giveaway is you give up 1/8" of thickness you can cut. So far I have not missed the 1/8" but I may, since I have started playing with compound cutting. But my table tops are easy to remove so if I need that 1/8" I will just remove the aux table top.

Those turned out great !....Nice work.

welcome to the village

Welcome to the Village Ivan !

Welcome friend, come back often! You've found a home!!!

No complaints here!!!

John Wayne my favorite actor, you did him real good. The frame is well done. Good looking project.

I replaced the bottom holder with the Pegasus so I’m not really using the slot anymore

Nobody suggested blade tension and this can also be the problem. When compound cutting you need very high blade tension. The blade cannot bow as you are cutting, and it will bow if the tension is not set high. On my Dewalt 788 I usually run about 4 out of the 5 max on the blade tension setting. Bbe very careful not to put any side pressure on the work and apply just enough feeding pressure for the blade to cut. Tiny teeth don't cut very fast, and many expect scroll saws to cut as fast as other woodworking tools. Because of this, they push the wood into the blade way to hard. If the wood is burning, like I can see in the photos, The blade is dull,or you are pushing the blade sideways, or the blade speed is too high. Slow down and concentrate on proper feeding. Scroll sawing is a journey, not a race to completion. Let the blade cut the wood and don't try to feed it harder than the blade teeth can cut the wood. I use a block of paraffin wax and apply it to all four sides of my running blade to lubricate the cut. I do this when changing to a new blade, when beginning the next piece, or whenever I think it might help. It reduces the chances of burning, makes the saw dust fall out of the blade teeth better, and in general just makes the cut go better. Before each session I apply Johnson's Paste Wax to the saw table, let it sit until it gets a haze, and then wipe off the excess with a dry cloth or paper towel. This helps the parts slide around on the table with less friction making movement of the piece much easier. I've never had a project finishing problem because I've waxed the blade and table. I paste wax all of the tables on my tools and even lubricate the ways and slides with it. Saw dust doesn't stick to the wax after it develops a hard surface coating. Petroleum greases collect saw dust constantly and make a huge mess over time. Get rid of the 2 X 4 pine and try some poplar, at least until you figure out how to run the saw. When you do cut pine, look for wood that does not have significant grain lines. As others have said, the blade will deflect as you go from soft to hard to soft areas of the wood making it harder to follow the line. With experience, you will be able to reduce this when you really want to cut pine, but for now don't try to work with it while you are still learning, because it's too hard for you to know what is causing your problems unless you have the experience to know what is happening. Also try to rest your palms on the saw table and just move your fingers to feed and steer the wood. I think you will discover that you can follow the lines much better this way. You can't maintain the proper feeding pressure or steer the wood when trying to push using your whole arms and elbows. Of course you can't always keep your palms on the table because sometimes it takes more effort or larger movements, but get yourself into the habit of just using your fingers for feeding and steering, and I think you will do much better. My students improve quickly once I get them to do this. Charley

That came out great Charlie. Great use of the waste. It bugs me when I throw away the extra pieces.

Super pattern and cutting!

WOW! Awesome piece. I really like the way you did it.

That is soooo cute Paul. The hair is amazing.

There are a few tricks involved. First you need the correct wood. Poplar, butternut and basswoods are some of the easiest. Pine while a soft wood has a very pronounced grain and the blade will tend to follow grains lines. Second you should wrap the block with clear packing tape after applying the pattern. Third you want to use a good quality skip tooth blade. No smaller then a #5. Reverse tooth blades are not recommended. Fourth you want to use a clamping devise such as this to hold the block together and give you support while cutting. Fifth is to make sure your blade is square with the table. Even a 1/2 degree will mess you up. Finally when you start cutting use a new blade and apply gentile pressure straight into the blade while you cut. Change blades often. Good Luck.

i think the degree of tilt recommended would be whatever is comfortable for the operator. i dont think scroll saws can have too much forward tilt.

I would design something that you can saw head on. It will be tough on your neck and back if you scroll to the side. The RBI stand is a nice starting point. Good luck.

Well it does sound like you know what you are doing. I guess I'm happy that I'm not Canadian when it comes to that sort of thing. We do have it pretty good down here. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do. Best of luck and happy scrolling. Eventually!

very nice job

Could always make things for those less fortunate? Not sure where you'd go to donate the stuff.. but i'm sure there has to be a charity type thing where you could give your work to and let them sell it to raise money for those that may be in need.. I sell ( or at least try too ) everything I make.. I do have some things that I've never sold since back in the beginning of my scrolling days back around 2006.. I'm not one to "lower prices" just to get rid of stuff.. I'd rather send it to the local goodwill that to lower the price... but this is due to the fact that.. a lower price isn't the issue with these things.. its more about getting it out in the view of the person that would like it.. is been more my experience with selling the stuff..

Just ask Google! LoL!