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I redid the wolf and eagle in oak to match the Indian. Before they were poplar and I didn’t like the way it took the danish oil. Now they match and I’m much happier with the results.

Working in my shop today I was removing the pattern and blue painters tape. I got to place that was very fragile and was very careful. Yet a small piece broke off. This piece was about 1/4" long and a 1/16" wide. Since the pattern is totally symmetrical I wanted to put it back in. Normally I use a tooth pick but am out of them. I looked around and could not find anything small enough to fit in that area for the repair . I looked in y trash can a seen some old blades from my scroll saw. I used one of them. Was surprised at how easy it was to control the amount glue applied and the control of applying the titebond. The repair went very good and no excess glue or lines could be seen. Just thought I would share this little tid bit I learned today in case anyone else runs into this.

About two weeks ago, i asked in the General Scrolling sub-forum for advice/info/help on cutting delicate, thin lettering patterns, wood choices, blades, etc. That thread with its great advice, helpful tips and more can be found here: http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/32260-how-would-you-start-cutting-this-pattern/ - There were quite a few of you who offered helpful advice, encouragement, tips, and information to help me in trying the pattern in question. It was a free file created by Keith Fenton at Sheila Landry Designs site and can be found here for anyone interested in it: http://www.sheilalandrydesigns.com/free-pattern I took on the challenge to cut it and decided to try it first with 1/8" baltic burch plywood (some 12" x 12" sheets purchased from Michael's). Since I was cutting thinner sheets, I also stack cut it and cut three of them out at one time. This was probably my first time in truly stack cutting something (or at least one i did successfully.) I think I used a #3 MG blade for the thinner lettering and a #5 UR for the bigger letting and the outside cuts. I slowed down my saw, took my time, and took breaks from day to day so I did not cut it all out in one setting. It is not perfect, but it looks good enough that I plan to finish them and keep one for myself and give the other two probably to my children for Christmas gifts. I am presently trying to decide how I want to finish them. The plan calls for a smaller backer behind. I am thinking of cutting a backer bigger then they are from maybe barn wood from a 100+ old small barn torn down on my inlaws property last year by my husband and my son. Some of the wood we salvaged still has old red paint on it so am thinking of using some of it. Figured it would give "Home for the Holidays" special meaning with that wood for my kiddos. Still trying to decide so not finished. Will share picture when I do. However, I wanted to go ahead and show my cutting and say thanks to all of you who took the time to give me help and advice in that thread. Can't say that I will be out hunting down thin lettering projects to do regularly, but I don't think I am quite as afraid of them now. Thank you all.

Interesting 3D effect Birch plywood 4 mm, stains, glossy varnish Pattern is available at: https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlexFoxUA

Here are three of my latest ones. The Christmas Night and Poetry wizard are designs by Aniki Lykke Sorenson. The Steam engine is by @neptun. The Christmas Night one is cut in two mahogany drawer sides salvaged from work and glued together, 9 1/2 X 12. The other two are 11 X 14, stack cut 1/8 and 1/4 BB ply. Jeff

Toys being played with by Great grandson. The man cave toys( bottle opener cars) are relatively new 2 years old at the most. The tow truck is dated 7-2000 on the bottom. I had brought it out of the dust for him to play with. Now I am going to have to make more tow-trucks. May end up a much different VINTAGE style though.

Technically, I think this may be my second for the New Year, but the other one was one that spread its self out over about 3 years! LOL Anyway, I had asked for help, information and tips on cutting thin lettering in this thread: http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/32260-how-would-you-start-cutting-this-pattern/ and received lots for which I am thankful. I finally cut it out and have added it to my gallery and to the sub-forum bragging rights found here:

I think to solve your problems you need to spend a bit of times learning about blades. There are number of types but some of the most common are skip tooth, reverse and ultra reverse. Each type has its own characteristics for cutting. Olson blades has a chart with good information. Olson-scrollblade-chart.pdf

I just finished these for a friend that is making a coffee table for his wife as a surprise. The “legs” will be wide boards on each end and he is going to frame these in with backboards. I had also made an OM symbol last week with African Paduck inlay and he wants that to inbed into the table top. The inlay came out pretty good, but finish sanding it was a messy job because the redness of the Paduck would bleed into the BB. Thank you Fish for the George Harrison pattern.

I use this Titebond glue. It dries clear. Probably very similar to Aleen’s Tacky glue. I really like it and find I am using it more all the time. I also use thick CA glue on tiny pieces. Applying it from the back of the picture.

For most scroll saw projects including gluing broken pieces I use Aleen’s Tacky glue. It does dry clear, but most importantly it is thick so it holds pieces together, in most cases without clamping. For regular woodworking, I always use Titebond II or III.

I stack cut when I did the George Harrison and kept one for myself. I decided to add the OM symbol onto his shirt.I think it adds to the overall project.

Catch Up.... I'm not good with 'files' and things on a computer so could not work out how to print the files for the doll. However, I emailed the person I bought the pattern off and they very kindly emailed me a 'pdf' copy that I have now saved and can print very easily. I'm not well enough to cut anything this week but once I have cut this I'll put it up so you can see how it turned out. Oh and I bought this one

I agree there is a learning curve to every tool. Only the user can fund the sweet spot and little tricks for their partiular saw. The only problem is it takes a good deal of cutting time to really get the hang of saw. Change saw same thing all over again

If it makes you feel better it was 14 this morning in my part of NC. My shop was a toasty 55 with my ceiling mounted heater in the lowest position.

Great it worked out for you. I am not normally so luck.

Just because a pattern for sale says it is a “laser pattern,” it does not mean that it is not useable as a scroll saw pattern. Usually, most of these types of patterns are pretty interchangeable. Usually if it is labeled as a "laser" pattern it usually just means it was done by a person who primarily or only uses a laser for cutting and thus they label it a “laser” pattern. However, it can still usually be used by someone with a scroll saw, a CNC, etc. The same is true for “scroll saw” patterns. While labeled as a “scroll saw” pattern, it could be used by someone using a laser for cutting. For example, if you follow Steve Good’s blog, you have probably seen where he has noted that he has started getting a lot of laser users who download and use his “scroll saw” patterns. In this instance, the site innar20 provided for finding a pattern to purchase notes that they are selling a digital download vector file that contains multiple file formats. Those formats include, AI (Adobe Illustrator), EPS (Encapsulated Postscript,) CDR (Corel Draw,) SVG (Scaleable Vector Graphic) (which can be used by many drawing programs including, AI, Corel, and Inkscape to name just a few) and finally, DXF (Drawing eXchange Format) which is used by a lot of AutoCad programs. So, you would simply need a program that used one of those formats. Since Inkscape is free and creates and uses SVG files by default, you can purchase and open the SVG file in Inkscape if you didn’t have a program that used any of the other formats. One note, if you did buy the design, you would want to note the depth of the wood used for the pattern and modify as needed if you were using different size/depth of wood. Innar20 is not a criminal because all he has shared was the information on where to find the file its self. The seller would be happy about that because it will lead to more sales perhaps. What the “cannot do” statement says is that you cannot share the file its self in any shape or form, for money or no money. Someone could however figure out how the skirt part worked and then create and share or sell their own totally different pattern if they wanted. So, if you really want a pattern to work with, you can buy the one Innar20 linked to, or find another one that is downloadable in a format that you can open with a program on your computer. Once you figure out the “skirt,” you can then create your own patterns if desired.

I spent this afternoon with another scroller. Hi is the person who purchased my 216VS Hawk. It was an interesting visit. Clayton has six scroll saws. 2 - 220VS Ultra Hawks, 1 - 216VS Hawk, 1 - Excalibur, 1 - 14" PS Woods, 1 - 21" PS Woods. I did a little cutting on both the Excalibur and the 21" PS Woods. Both are remarkable saws. The Ex is nearly totally vibration free. A beautiful machine. I also had the privilege to use the PS Wood saw. It is phenomenal. I would call it an industrial rated machine. Heavy, heavy. It is built like a tank and like the Hegner and Hawk it is a simple machine. It has a large table and I was impressed with the belt change system. It is easy and foolproof. Changing belts is a breeze and it cuts like a dream. At $799.00 with free shipping and stand it is a bargain. Had I known about the machine when I first started scrolling I would have purchased it immediately. I am surprised that it is not more widely used. I'm sure there are Village members out there that use one but perhaps just don't lit be known.I almost get the idea they are sort of considered like a Yugo. They are not. I also looked at two of his saws with the mirror tables. Impressive. He waxes them which lessens the shine slightly but the wood introduces small scratches which makes me decide not to do it to my saw. Plus it takes him about four hours to do it. I don't have time or energy. I also used the PS Wood blades. A #5. Very smooth cutting. Finished cut is very smooth, just like a sanded finish. He gave me a dozen blades. I'll put them to use for sure. In all it was an enjoyable afternoon. BTW he even cuts sheet metal with the PS Wood machine. He cuts out an elephant, spot welds the big ears and welds two small rods to it for placing on the garden or lawn. Of course that's me at the PS Wood machine.

Just finished this 3D Bee. It’s not perfect but it was fun to make !

Don in Brooklyn (Ontario that is) kindly created this pattern for me. Dr. Joe is my wife's Chiropractor and life coach. He has done wonders for her. I wish my scrolling could do justice to the pattern. It is 17X5.5 inches. Quite large. I still need to detail it and place it on a 1/4" backer. Wood is Poplar and cut with a #5 Pegas mg blade. I will need to put a final finish on it and mount a couple of hangers.

Not your standard dolphins, mind you....part of a Steve Good pattern (printed at 150% enlargement, using the "poster" option in Adobe Acrobat Reader's print window), these are submarine qualification dolphins, 6 years of living hell and a daily-renewed appreciation for Mountain Dew, strong coffee, Excedrin, and Motrin 800. Cut out of 1" pine, finished in Minwax's Provincial. These'll end up hanging over my desk at work. Still not sure if I'll make a plaque to back them or not....subs are pretty no-frills places to conduct sneakiness and shenanigans (not necessarily in that particular order), I think they'll do just fine standing on their own. Plus, being 1" thick, they'd look funny sticking out of a plaque. Already had a request for another set from another submariner, I'll do that one out of 1/2" ply, double-stacked for an extra set. This was a fun cut, but the final sanding left a lot to be desired.

Wow, that really pops out at you. Well done, it looks good !!

Well done Melanie! I like the idea of the barn wood backer. Am anxiously awaiting pictures of the finished product.

Nice job Melanie, I knew you could do it which is why I didn’t offer any advice. It’s like any other scroll saw project. As long as you follow the line, or close to it, you will be fine.

A. Great cutting! B. I am a fan of old barn wood. C. Suggestion for backer; definitely the old barn wood -- Enough larger that the sign becomes a door on a barn shaped background-- old paint left as is and then just clear coated over all of it. Maybe add a name or?? on the side or on the hayloft as was often done. D. I and I am sure; many others want to see the final results!

Brilliant job Melanie. I love them xx

Congratulations, Melanie! You did a fine job on those. Wasn't really that hard, was it? Great job. I like your idea for the backer. Maybe try one with a backer (1/4" thick) cut just about 1/4" bigger than the piece. so it gives a border. Paint it a Christmas color, you could even work it so you paint the backer green where the holly shows and red on the rest, or something to that effect, or is it affect, not sure which goes here.

That is a real cool way of doing the holder and then you have unlimited choices in silhouettes. Thanks for the link.

Thanks Les. If anyone ever looks closely at the framing they will see 4 or 5 hammer dings around the nails that did not drive in completely. Those were the ones I had to finish with my left hand. Every 5th hit actually hit the nail. I will say I got better as the project went on.

Nice tip thanks Couple of more Next time you see a Dr. ask for some tongue depressors, they stil have them. Break one lengthwise, they almost always break with one side having a very fine point. And being hardwood they can be sharpened to a point if needed, and of course they are free. Chicken Express, order corn on the cob and they give you two or more dowels, hard wood, already sharpened to a point. I am close to needing a refill of wood glue, I notice a lot of folks seem to like titebond, so while at home depot I thought I would get some. Two or three varieties, but none of them say dries clear - do all titebond glues dry clear, or at if your flavor of titebond does, what flavor is it? TIA

I almost bought it too but was not sure about the file thing. Melanie sure cleared a few things up. Now I will watch what you come up with. I do want to make these and hope others jump in and design something different too. It is a great and different idea. Thanks all.

Every new tool, new blade, new anything to you has a learning curve. You have to work thru that and learn the machine itself. Every sound, every tick, every movement of it. Then, while you're cuttin', learn the sound of every single blade you use. What it sounds like in different woods, under aggression, with light pressure into the blade, whatever. That's what it's about. It all takes time and practice. You'll figure it out, and we'll be here to walk ya thru yer tights. The first two most important things to learn though, no matter what else happens, 1) Learn that machine and everything about it, inside & out. 2) Keep in mind, EVERY single blade chart you look at is only a recommendation for blade size and use. You, and only you have to figure out what blades will work the best for your type of cutting, and go from there. Avoid plywood at all cost if possible. 1)The adhesives between the layers will dull any type of blade faster than you care to change'em. 2) Plywood is known for "voids" and does have a tendency to tear out and leave a catch, especially if you are using a very aggressive blade. Therefore, creating your "jump." Whether you're cuttin' soft or hardwood, look after your blade kerf. Sometimes, with given types of blades, if your blade speed may be to slow, the blade kerf is not bein' cleaned out by the blade proper. Therefore, sawdust builds up in the kerf and binds up your blade. Sounds might near impossible, huh? It happens. There are several things to look at here, and as Sycamore mentioned, we're kinda short on some information, so we aren't fully able to do our job. He also mentioned getting to know a blade size chart. Good advice. Another friendly piece of advice, practice, practice, practice.;) Keep makin' sawdust! Sawdust703(brad)

Sweet project. Jeff

@don in brooklin on what I did was to copy a vector graphic (free online) of a cog. Import it into Inkscape and then did a 'trace bitmap'. When I had the copy I just pressed the 'node' button thing and I was able to stretch and re-size the bits as I wish.

I hadn't realised you could buy the pattern. Well, I went and bought it and although I can open it with various things, it's all on one page that looks about 40ft long and try as I might I have no idea of how to print it out. I've emailed them to ask. I'll let you know if I get an answer. xx

Jeff, those all look good from here !

Brenda I hope you share what you get. I have watched an number of videos today on "Cloned Tile Clones" and for some reason I can not get it to rotate correctly. Won't rotate on the centre. I have moved the centre but still no go. I am getting closer and I will share once if I ever get the cog done.

My technique is to let the saw reach speed and then ease into the cut. I usually set the speed to about 50%. On the old saw, cutting pine was a problem. However, there was a huge hole in the table for the blade to pass thru, with no insert, and that always gave me the willies. I took the hold down off of the old saw and would have to press down fairly hard to keep the saw from jumping. Vibration was quite high, with quite a range, as measured by by vibration app on my phone. The new saw so far is completely different. The vibration is much lower and in a narrow band. I believe I have it mounted correctly with ample foam under it. I wish I could remember what blade I used. It was an Olson blade, I think. Hence the need for a notebook to write down the particulars of what I try. When I cut my first project on the new saw, using the cheap blade that came with it, (unknown # of teeth, pattern, thickness, etc) I approached the cutting in the same manner, with a bit of trepidation, expecting it to jump all over the place. That never happened so I was pleased. With a quality blade I think it should do much better. Should have some time to check it out again this weekend with a better blade on a better project. Will report results here.

I've found that the wood tends to jump when I'm feeding to fast or I have the speed set to slow. Makes no difference which blade, except it happens more often with the larger blades. So maybe it's just a matter of slowing your feed or upping the saw speed a bit. When I'm teaching, I find that people want to start pushing the blade into the wood before the saw is running. Makes that wood slap every time, but some folks have a hard time realizing why.

The last couple of weeks we have been through a severe heatwave with temperatures around the 40 degree mark or above.Today it is 42 & expected to hit 46 on Friday & that is celsius readings.Not much time spent in the shed .I manage to do a few jobs in the morning but the heat drives me back inside before lunch to sit under the cooler.Cheers Peter

I've been out taking pictures this past week and came away with a few I wanted to share with you all. I am hoping to get back out again this coming week after everyone goes back to work. Thanks for looking Jim

It's been a lot of fun seeing what everyone has done. This is my first project of the year. It is a wedding present for my nephew. A Steve Goode pattern. Walnut with two coats of tung oil. A while back I started making clocks for all nieces and nephews who are getting married.

Nice job! Good to hear you like your new saw.

built in dust collection, top and bottom

My first project for 2019!

This was a big seller for the Christmas season and the orders have carried over into the New Year so it was the first project done for the year. A Charles Dearing design.

My first project was a big one. I am working on developing my technique of creating layered cartoon style scroll saw art. I spent roughly 40 hours on this project. The dimension (including frame) are 15.5"x21.5". I used naturally colored wood with no stains along with stained glass to pull this off. Aside from the silhouette layers, I did not use any paints. As for the woods, I used Padauk, Yellowheart, Walnut, Bloodwood, Oak, Figured Maple, Sapele, Aspen, Tigerwood and Mahogany. If you want to see more of my process - here is a link to the full build album https://imgur.com/gallery/BeB2nKi.

I have only had this saw for about a week now, but so far I love it. Anyone purchasing this saw needs to go through and check all adjustments prior to using as with probably any saw. I found the left to right adjustment of the blade chuck allen screws were not right , but easily corrected. The saw is practically vibration free at all speed ranges. Neal P.