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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/02/2019 in all areas

  1. Had this one downloaded/printed for a while, got it finished up today, just in time to give to TheBoss for Valentine's Day. Red is just water and food coloring, backer is metallic silver rattlecan. I like how this one turned out.
    8 points
  2. woodduck

    Custom Harley

    Made this one for my good customer who said he would take all I could make for him. I used 4 mm Marine Ply for this one & I mainly used No 1 silver reverse blade but I did use a 3/0 new spiral for parts of the front wheel & the spring at the top of the folks. Cheers Peter
    7 points
  3. Was excited the receive this award.. LOL and felt it's worth a little bragging rights.. It's certainly not easy selling online and especially on Etsy where there is 1.9 million sellers to compete with.. I had to crop most of the info out of this image due to privacy reasons so I just show the little banner from the message I got.. I owe a big Thank You to the Pattern designers... Also to this website and everyone here to this success as I couldn't have achieved this without you all..
    4 points
  4. Went in to Home Depot thus week,they had 1by6 inch white pine in two foot lengths at .93 cents each..picked Out three that looked good,So for three dollars I made,the fiddle,rabbits,elephants,Family puzzle,and key holder. Also made the little heart sculpture, humming birds and welcome friends sign Fiddle,rabbits,elephants,family puzzle and hummers are Steve good patterns..welcome is Sheila Landrys
    4 points
  5. Here’s what I created. I found a hummingbird in the free clip art and I used Brenda’s cog. My base could be a bit bigger I think for more support. Still need to do more sanding and will paint it at some point
    3 points
  6. So here’s another one I thought of. The tree is from free clip art and the deer and fawn is from Steve Good’s catalog. And I used Brenda’s cog. Still will paint at sometime. I have three more ideas but they’ll have to wait for another day.
    3 points
  7. Some time ago, the question was asked what screw thread fits the Delta/788 blade clamp. Loctite was not holding one of the screws on the left side of one my Delta clamps. I put in a longer screw and a lock nut on the outside. Bought the longest screw that was available and it only stuck out enough for half the thickness of the nut to go on, but it has served the purpose. Today it finally warmed up enough in our Iowa garage for this old geezer to venture out & check. The size is: M6 x 12 1 pitch jerry
    3 points
  8. Have posted this one is Bragging Rights before I saw the new challenge. Another Aniki Lykke Sorenson pattern. Just love the way she captured the interest in the cat's eyes and had to cut it. Jeff
    3 points
  9. bcdennis

    Crosses

    I finished these this past weekend. Sue Mey designs. These are very popular, 2 of the 3 were sold within 30 minutes of posting them on FB and the other is spoken for. Made of 3/4 Poplar.
    3 points
  10. I thought about a Seyco but I do not like the fact that the tilt mechanism is left off on it. I can't see any advantage of leaving it off other than it made it cheaper to make.Ray has definitely got a great reputation for first class customer service. I hear everyone bragging on the Pegas blade clamps so that was another factor in my decision.
    3 points
  11. I have the same press as Ray.. and the chuck on mine doesn't hold the small bits well... there is certainly enough travel in the quill for drilling 1-1/2" stock.. I've had the same issue in drilling hole with them small bits.. and I've had the bit slip but not noticeable as in spinning speed.. but once drilled the bit had backed up into the chuck just a little.. As for the quill stop.. On this particular style drill press... it's much easier to just leave the stop where it bottoms out at full length quill extension and ( well actually I have mine at about half way ) move the table to the bottom out position than it is to move the quill stop.. Not the easiest set up to mess with.. so for me.... I have certain stop blocks right at the press... If I'm drillin out a clock I have a thickness scrap ( all my clocks the same thickness as I plane my own lumber ) I drop the block on the press table raise the able to the bit I'm using with the quill bottomed out and touching the tip of the bit..I get the correct depth every time.. Much easier to loosen the table than to adjust those stupid two nuts that if I don't get them tight enough they vibrate and adjust themselves and change the depth on their own while I'm drilling.. LOL Mine is a well used and worn press that I bought at a tractor parts swap meet..only gave $2 for it about ten years ago.. I've drilled a lot of holes with it.. getting noisy and probably going to need to replace or rebuild it.. I like the little thing.. Maybe my quill stop is broke or something.. because I know it shouldn't move once I lock it but it does.. and where it's at ( about half way ) is where it goes to and stays on it's own so I let it have its way.. my work around works well for both of us, LOL
    3 points
  12. Ray, I like to use these bits in my drill press. You dont have to worry about these slipping. Now for me personally, I never use the stops on the drill press. If you've ever used the stops and had them come loose during a job and ruining a piece of work, you'll probably never use them again either. I keep mine clinched tight and out of the way. I use my table to control the depth. The bit itself is only one inch and overall its 2-1/4" long. I know this says for metal but the holes are cleaner and virtually no run out or wobble with these bits. To edit...disregard Ray, read your post a few times and still misinterpreted it.
    3 points
  13. I have read and reread Ray post numerous times. Since the chuck is contacting the wood, see above quote, it is not the travel. I looked up 1/16th" drill bits on the internet. Most that list the overall length say they are 1 7/8" long so there is roughly 3/8" to spare. Tight but should be enough to gripe. So Ray step 1 would be to measure the overall bit length. If shorter then 1 7/8" buy some longer ones. Step 2 would be to measure your stock to be sure it is really 1 1/2" Step 3 insert the bit and measure that you have at least 1/32" more then 1 1/2" of bit. Step 4 lower the quill all the way and while still lowered raise the table, with the sacrificial piece so it bit makes a very small dibble in the wood. Step 5 is drill.
    3 points
  14. " No matter what combination I tried, I couldn't get the drill bit to go all the way through the wood. It seems that even if I mounted the bit with as little shank as possible in the chuck, by the time I drilled down into the wood, the jaws of the chuck would contact the wood before the drill bit exited the back side of the wood. " To me, this is the key to the mystery. If the jaws of the chuck are touching the wood, then it's the length of the bit that it the problem. If the jaws stopped short of the wood, then it would be travel. It shouldn't matter how thick the backer is or even if one is used. If the bit is too short, the backer won't matter. When using a larger bit, the jaws won't protrude as far out of the chuck. The smaller the bit, the further the jaws will protrude. I don't know how much difference this makes between a 1/16" bit and a 7/64" bit, but it really doesn't matter if there is less than 1 1/2" of bit sticking out of the chuck.
    3 points
  15. Howdy, Mr. JT, I beg to differ Sir. I've spent the last 3 hours readin' and settin' this up on my drill press like Mr. Ray described he did. First off, near as I can tell in my readin' thru parts manuals, instruction manuals, and parts schematics, at best, he could have 2'' of travel. So, My shop foreman & I took a stroll over to the shop at 3:00 this morning, on account o' this is buggin' me. So, under the careful watch of my foreman, we discussed all the possibilities of the situation, and here is what we came up with. Now, seein's how I just got a little drill press my own self. A 10'' press. First thing we did was to measure the length of the stroke. I came up with 2 1/2'' full out. So I adjusted it back to a 2'' stroke. Laid a 1/2'' pc. of sacrificial wood on the drill table, located a 1/16'' bit, measured the length of the bit I have and come up with a 2'' bit. Now, here's where it get's interestin'. I'm tryin' to be polite about this so nobody gets offended. Throw the jakes & start droppin' gears, gentlemen! Turn yer thinker boxes on. Unless you've got extended length 1/16'' bits, what do get when ya put a 2'' bit along side 1 1/2'' material? Any takers????????????? If I'm not mistaken, you've got a 1/2'' a bit left to try & get the jaws to bite and hold square, correct? If the bit ain't in those jaws proper, it'll just slide up with downward pressure. With a 1/2'' of the end of the bit in the end of them jaws, he'd have to get them good'n tight, correct? This, in turn, imo, rules out travel distance. Simply because, regardless of the length of travel, the solution still circles back to the length of the bit. The bit is to short for an adequate grip of the jaws to hold it proper, therefore, it is 1)allowing the bit to slip, or 2)his bit is shorter than, well, I figger ya get the picture. That's the best I can offer. In all the readin' and huntin' I done, and then the set up on my own press. I reckon that's about all I have to say about that. Sawdust703(brad)
    3 points
  16. Howdy Mr. Ray, My first thought was bit length. Then the more I kicked it around, seein's how it's a smaller drill press, there could be a couple things. By chance, does the press have depth adjustments? If so, are they adjusted out so that the length of your quill has full reach? The next thought I had was maybe you were gettin' your bit so far out towards the end of the jaws, they weren't gettin' the best of grip on yer bit, therefore lettin' yer bit push back up into the quill while yer doin' the drillin'. I kinda have that issue with the real tiny bits I have to use for intricate work like feathers, eyes, Native American designs, etc. Depending on the stock, if it's very tough drillin' and I've a lot to drill with small bits, I will set the bit up into the jaws far enough to get a good bite on the bit, drill what length I can, then go back and let out the rest of the bit to the end of the jaws, or close to it, and finish drillin' my entry holes that way. Yea, it takes a little more time that way, but most times it keeps from bustin' a bit or two, but still drillin' completely through the stock. Mr. Ray, Hope this helps ya out a little, my friend. Keep in touch, Boss. Ring my phone if I can be of assistance with anything. Mind your manners!;) Sawdust703(brad)
    3 points
  17. Well, guess who just placed a pre-order... Yep, this guy (said with 2 thumbs pointing back at me) LOL Discounted pre-order price was enticing. I'll give it a shot. If it lasts 2 years for me, at this price, it saves me a little money compared to wearing out a DW every 12-15 months. We shall see. I guess I won't see the saw for about 6 weeks. No rush... heck, I haven't cut a single puzzle in 2 months due to being so busy with day job and other business.
    3 points
  18. Aww! Great cutting, Paul, A great gift for the wife but, I would NOT let her see the comment you made after posting the pic. LOL God Bless! Spirithorse
    3 points
  19. Hi Ray: Sounds to me like your drill bit is slipping in the chuck Measure your drill bit before you start drilling - then check it after you drilled through as far as you can You would think that if your bit is long enough it would go through, Fab4 Looks like Kevin and I posted at the same time and basically said the ame thing
    3 points
  20. LOL, First thing to come to my mind is.... Is the drill bit you was using actually longer than the 1-1/2 inch stock you're trying to drill? Sounds like the problem to me since you say your 7/64 bit did it.. I find a lot of the smaller bits are also short bits.. especially when you get to the real small bits..
    3 points
  21. I started a master's degree program at the beginning of the year, which has cut into my scrolling time (on the plus side I can now tell you all about reading fluency) with the ridiculously cold temperatures in the mid west (warmed up to -18 today) I have gotten some extra days off of school/work and found some time to saw. I wanted something warm, so I googled beach silhouettes and found this. I painted the backer a goldish/bronze because my garage is too cold to do any staining. It is glued to the backer with elmer's glue all, it dries clear so any of the spots that you can see will become clear as it dries a bit more. It will get a coat of clear gloss when the temperature warms up, hopefully before June.
    3 points
  22. Playing card box by Steve Good. I tried my hand at epoxy inlay. Glitter for the red, coffee grounds for the black. Not perfect, but not bad.
    3 points
  23. I saw a picture of this on Pinterest, and have spent several hours trying to find it's origin. I got a far back as a German site, about window template that bring about piece and harmony called rediscoversongs.com. I really had a hard time figuring what it was all about but it seems this was put up on a site by a person named Teresa Gibson. I do not know if she made the template or just posted it. Anyway, I made this using a picture of it. I did not have a real pattern. I think I am okay because I'm not going to sell this or the picture I got it from. I made it for a little Valentine present for my wife. She can hang it in the kitchen window.
    2 points
  24. @Dave Monk I hope you will keep us informed when you get the Pegas. I wish you lived close,,, maybe I could interest you in a lightly used Seyco saw. Been a long time since I have fired it up, I spend all my time in front of my Hegner.
    2 points
  25. One way to fix problem is to buy a chuck that will work on small bits. I did this a few years ago. I now have no problem holding small bits without slippage. I use down to #60 drill bits no problem. Bob
    2 points
  26. I use the bits with a hex end for small bits in my drill press. The smaller bits tend to slip in the chuck. My drill press handles up to 5/8" bits and does not handle small bits well.
    2 points
  27. I purchased an EX21 in December from Amazon. I don't know if it was damaged in shipping or is was defective. I messed with it for about three weeks and finally returned it. Pre ordered my Pegas yesterday. Hope it goes better. Glad I have a Hegner that just keeps on chugging away. It is a great dependable saw but I want to have two saws. Nice to have a saw you can top feed for big projects. When doing inlay work it is nice to leave one at an angle. I preordered mine at D&D. Hope we are both pleased with them.
    2 points
  28. After drilling a zillion holes both by hand and drill press, if the shank of the bit (non serrated section and especially with small bits) is not thoroughly in the chuck it eventually will start slipping. The harder the lumber, the quicker this will happen. Now the chuck itself might be getting worn so it's actual purchase has been diminished (again, especially with smaller bits) and this as well can lead to the slippage. I really don't think this problem has anything to do with travel length, stops, etc etc. But I've been wrong before!
    2 points
  29. No his problem is in the travel. He is allowing too much distance between the project piece and the tip of the drill bit. He then spent alot of the allowable travel to just get to the project piece. If the bit is slipping I would think he would see that. May have to get him some better glasses. Others told him to check for slippage and easy enough to measure. If it is too short than shame on him and he is banned from the shop for life. Whenever I drill with a forstner bit I use the detent stops and allow the bit to ride along side the piece to the depth I want and then lock the stop down. No need to keep moving the table that is why they have the stop function. Not sure what the travel is on those small drill presses. I have a sacrificial board double sided tape on the table at all times. I also have it so it sticks out further on the side to give better support and also allows me to set up stop blocks when drilling multiple holes. Clamps and double sided tape work wonders.
    2 points
  30. This statement here make me think he's getting enough travel in the quill... but the bit is too short OR slipping back up into the chuck.. Doing this will increase the distance from the drill chuck.. therefor you'd need to raise the table up to get the same distance down into the wood.. When I drill pilot holes on my little 8" Delta press.. I always do as what JT said.. I put the sacrificial piece down on the table.. I then adjust the table so the drill bit with the quilll all the way down will bottom out on my sacrificial piece.. I then raise it just a very small amount.. This way I know my bit is going to go through the piece I'm drilling... but not go through my sacrificial piece.. I don't need to make holes on my drill press table so I always, always bottom out the bit just slightly below the top of the sacrificial piece.. His problem is either the bit is too short... or slippage once he starts drilling... that is the only two things it can be "IF" the chuck is going all the way down and hitting his piece he's drilling.. Another thing that sometimes happens to me when drilling my holes for the clocks using the forestner bits.. The table on my Delta just has a clamp to hold the table height.. I've had a few instances where I didn't have the clamp tight enough and as I drill the table is moving down so I'm not getting the depth that I had set it up for.. But that doesn't sound like his problem because he is bottoming out the chuck to his piece of wood and not getting through the back side.. so again.. drill bit too short... or slipping back up into the chuck... the only two options it can be..
    2 points
  31. To the answer is in your travel. If you put the bit in the chuck and you measure its length it must be 1-1/2" or better to start. Now without the project piece there pull the handle down as far as you can with no stop detent holding you back. Should be a free fall. Now as you hold that there raise the table so that blade touches your sacrificial piece. Now let the arm back up Now measure the distance between the tip of the bit and the top of your sacrificial piece. If it measure and it should, over 1-1/2" means you have enough travel in the quill to do your operation. Now lower the table with the sacrificial piece still on it and insert your project piece between the bit and the table with as little space in between as possible. You are now good to go. I believe your travel is not allowing enough because you set the distance between the bit and project piece as too much before it enters the piece. Narrow that space up and it has to work. But if that bit is sliding up the chuck then you have other problems. But that is where your mystery is. Good luck.
    2 points
  32. Ray - try this. Put your bit in the chuck and tighten it as best you can. Measure the length of the bit sticking out of the chuck and write that number down. Drill your piece. Whether it works or not, re-measure the length of the bit. If the bit is slipping in the chuck it will be a different length than when you first put it in. I know some drill chucks don't clamp down on most bits small than 1/16th". This may be the case with yours.
    2 points
  33. Well, If the chuck is going down all the way to the wood there is only two things it can be.. 1) Drill Bit Too Short 2) Drill Bit To Far Into Chuck Which Makes It Too Short Is it possible that the since you put the bit all the way out to the bottom of the chuck that it could be slipping and pushing back up into the chuck.. I mean... If you have 1-1/2 + inch sticking out of the bottom of the chuck then you should be drilling through that distance.. unless like i said.. it's slipping back up slightly into the chuck.. If you weren't bottoming out the chuck to the wood I'd say you need to adjust the depth stop..
    2 points
  34. If I have the space and extra bucks to burn, I think I would go get this one. Don't know why, I just think it is neat. I'm sure it only takes pin blades, look like it has a high speed and a low speed. https://spokane.craigslist.org/tls/d/clayton-40s-or-early-50s-vintage-walker/6783828981.html
    2 points
  35. You know, the bored looking one,,, the one on the right,,, that be me. The one flapping her arms and mouth wide open.....on the left,,,,, that would be...............
    2 points
  36. Very new here but first project of the year was a scrap bin for food pieces. Moved in to a new house with a handful of housemates and it was the easiest way to make sure we didn't just use each other's tupperware for food pieces that have to go out to compost.
    2 points
  37. I did this for my grandsons birthday tomorrow, he will be 16. He loves American basketball and as you can see his favorite player is LeBron James. The pattern is by Mahendra ( @multitom ) Marg
    2 points
  38. This Alaska Railroad train is my first 2019 project. I did this at the request of a neighbor who will be sending it to a young boy in Alaska who loves trains. The train is 3D as it is raised at the front by about one inch off the tunnel behind it.
    2 points
  39. A project for myself. Will go over my front door.
    2 points
  40. New to scroll sawing so I took a shot at a Steve Good pattern
    2 points
  41. It's been a lot of fun seeing what everyone has done. This is my first project of the year. It is a wedding present for my nephew. A Steve Goode pattern. Walnut with two coats of tung oil. A while back I started making clocks for all nieces and nephews who are getting married.
    2 points
  42. Scrappile

    Howdy

    Welcome to the forum. Great to have another Marine join up. Semper Fi
    1 point
  43. It appears Mr. Kevin nailed it, JT. With or without my input. Just so we're on the same page, I read all of Ray's posts several times, Mr. JT. I set up my press exactly the same way Ray said his was. Every step he describes. I also took a measurement of the jaws protruding with the 1/16" bit installed. My measurements were well over 1/4" just to get down to hold that bit. If it makes ya feel any better JT, I also measured the length of the bit after I drilled a couple times in 1 1/2" material, & the bit had not slipped or moved in the jaws of my press. And yes, with about a 1/2" or less of the shank of the bit it the jaws & tightened, it is possible to drill thru 1 1/2" material with the travel of 2", no sacrificial board, and the bit set as Mr. Ray described. With or without bein' polite about it, JT, yer buckets' got a hole in it & losin' water fast. There are to many others in agreement about bit length or possible slippage, JT. Sawdust703(brad)
    1 point
  44. Foxfold

    Custom Harley

    Outstanding.... I'm not going to let Tony see this only because he'll want one and I'll never have the skill you have... Truly great cutting Peter.
    1 point
  45. That is pretty cool. The metallic silver backing really makes everything pop. Great work Kirk. Marg
    1 point
  46. My husband calls me the boss as well, I never asked for the job but I got it. Your wife will love it Paul and when she looks through the window and sees it she will think of you. Marg
    1 point
  47. I use my little Delta lathe for my Mac Mops.... works great. My lathe tools are getting rusty!
    1 point
  48. Technically, I think this may be my second for the New Year, but the other one was one that spread its self out over about 3 years! LOL Anyway, I had asked for help, information and tips on cutting thin lettering in this thread: http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/32260-how-would-you-start-cutting-this-pattern/ and received lots for which I am thankful. I finally cut it out and have added it to my gallery and to the sub-forum bragging rights found here:
    1 point
  49. I recently got a dewalt scroll saw and this is my first attempt to make a pattern from a picture. This is my grandson on his skateboard
    1 point
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