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I just cut this one out a few minutes ago. The customer wants to paint it the school colors of his boy, who is represented on this jersey. So I have it ready for him to paint and then I will glue it together. I actually liked the pattern more than I thought I would. It is rather cute and should make the receiver feel the pride his dad has in his efforts on the basketball court, when he sees this and hangs it on his wall NOT GOING TO GET A CHANCE TO SEE THE FINISHED PRODUCT, THE CUSTOMER JUST CAME BY AND PICKED IT UP. HE IS TAKING IT HOME AND WILL PAINT IT HIMSELF AND GLUE IT. SO I WILL NOT SEE THE FINISHED ITEM EITHER. Dick heppnerguy

“Complete”. Meaning they are all cut. But I have 3 pieces I need to sand, apply danish oil, and glue. Then they will be complete. Overall it was my most tedious project yet. More fretwork than I’ve done. But the end result is always worth the effort. 3/4” Brich plywood. Broke a few blades and dulled a few! The last 2 I cut needed a blade each. After I was done it felt really dull. On to the next! Got a friend that wants a lighthouse. Did these two today,

At the club this week I was asked if I could design a pattern that had LOVE on 2 sides that he incorporate into holder for a tea light. (He knew that 2 side would be weird). I took Steve Goods pattern that said "LOVE/WOOD". Copied the love to the wood side and put on a pattern from Steve for tea light holder. I was not sure what it would look like so a cut a demo and it turned out not too bad so I finished. 6 1/2 tall from some scrap pine 1 3/4 x 1 3/4

From Mars Attacks. 1/8" bb 8x10. 107 holes. I haven't framed it yet. I am in the process of making a table saw miter sled. I decided no more frames until I make things easier on myself.

Was going to do Worthington House "First Christmas" intarsia of Santa kneeling to baby Jesus to make sure I had it done by next year. As I cut out the pattern for each type wood, I noticed a lot more tricky cuts and small pieces that I didn't realize looking at the big picture. Considering I hadn't done any cutting since before the holidays and they were actually functional pieces like address sign for my son's house, I figured I better get back to some practice pieces for a while. I couldn't even remember what blades I was comfortable with. I found a packet of patterns that I bought a couple years ago and thought they'd be perfect. I tried the wolf from Jacob Fowler. Not really planning on mounting it or anything but it was good practice. I do have a question for you vets out there as a point of reference. How long would this take you to cut this. I didn't think it was difficult since there aren't many narrow bridges- but there are a lot of sharp curves. It took me about 5&1/2 to 6 hours over 3 sessions to do it. I know a lot of you could probably knock this out pretty quick. I used Baltic birch and FD 2/0 blade. Critique is welcome.

The plan for these Hot Rods come from Toy making plans........You can make a lot of these guys from a 2 x 4...I get my wheels and axle pegs from Craftparts.com....The kids love them in the bright colors.......Thanks for looking...Steve.

This is an AlexFoxUa pattern from Etsy. My first paid pattern. Really enjoyed the quality of the pattern. Congrats Alex on your mention and pic in the spring edition of Scroll saw magazine. You deserve it. I enjoy the realistic patterns you offer everyone. The frame on mine is Mahogany. Finished with 1 coat of tung oil and 3 coats of deft rattle can lacquer. Splines were 1/4" scrap of Baltic birch. The cut was 1/4" Baltic Birch finished with 2 coats of clear shellac/denatured alcohol mix then 2 coats of deft rattle can lacquer. Backer board was 1/4" Baltic Birch. Started out flat....didn't like it then went satin black. Blades used were Flying Dutchman 2/0 Spiral 35 TPI for around the mouth and the rest was Olsen Skip Tooth 2/0 28 tooth per inch. This is a gift for my sister who rescues and preps cats for adoption.

One more St Valentine gift. Cutting swirls was easy and fun, I plan to make similar "HOME" project

This company deserves a pat on the back from me. Last week I ordered some clocks from them. I received them in two or three days. Two of the clocks had gold bezels and I wanted black. I took a picture of the order and sent them an email and explained to them that I really wanted the black bezel clocks. I also told them that I forgot to order a few things and that I would keep and pay for the ones they sent, order what I forgot and order two more clocks with black bezels if they would pay for the shipping. I got an email next morning stating apologizing and stated that two black bezel clocks were in the mail. I received them in two days. They sure won my business.

Hi Charlie, I made the moving the upper arm stop modification on my Hegner after the warranty expired. I would advise anyone contemplating making permanent modifications to their scroll saws to not do them until their warranty expires. That being said I have no regrets on the ones I have made. I haven't a clue why Hegner decided to put the upper arm stop in it's present location other than its relationship to the holddown and its present hardware location which I also modified. All I can tell you is with the upper arm stop modification I made it is much easier to thread blades through the work piece especially on large fretwork.

My neighbor got herself a new dog, so after she told me the breed, I went to Iggy’s web site and of course he had the pattern. I found out that this breed is the national dog of Cuba, the breed is Havanese. Lot’s of fun to cut.

I bought a few clock mechanisms recently in the hope they might sell well. The first pattern is by Steve Good, the second is from Creative Scrolling but modified to have a base. Both are in Red Beech finished with BLO. About 8 x 6 inches approx. Thanks for looking, Rob

So glad you like your Hegner Charlie. Sometimes I find it easier to remove the bottom blade holder from the clamp, slide it out of the slot, flip the work over and feed the blade through the next hole from the top (backside of the piece) then flip it back over and re-insert the bottom clamp. So you can top feed, sort of! Rob

Thanks. I'm usually one who would say forget the warranty, but with the warranty being 7 years and considering the cost of the saw I'm not planning on doing it any time soon.

I use only flat blades, they are also good at cutting fretwork patterns, here is result of my cutting by flat blades - one more cat

A friend who's son is getting married in April contacted me and said HELP.....They need some letters for a large sign they are making that read MR & Mrs, etc. So after they told me what they wanted I contacted Paul and asked him if he could do some patterns for me and I explained what I wanted... Within 12 hours I had them in my hot little hand and my friend approved them. This is a very rough photo because they have to be painted and glued to the board. Unfortunately they are cut from MDF because that is what they wanted and what they brought with them. They have promised me a photo of the finished piece when they are done. Thanks again @Fab4 Paul, you are a gem. Marg

A mac is a computer and like a Hegner, I keeps on working while you are trying to get you Windows PC to....

On the Mac, it is Shift-Option-8

GrampaJim has what I had stored away. Stoney's mods. I came close to doing them. The Hegner took me a while to get the hang of and many emails to Advanced Machinery. But all of a sudden we fell in sync and I would not part with my Hegner, unless I had do quite scrolling all together. I like it just as it is and am so comfortable with it now that I have decided I don't need to make any mods to it.

Technically, these are "bandsaw boxes" BUT the handles were cut on my scroll saw. While we already had an 18" floor model bandsaw (well hubby did) in the shop, he got me a smaller 10" tabletop Rikon bandsaw for Christmas. I like it for most of my needs and it is easy enough for me to change out the blades on it as needed. He also built me a stand to put it on. (Yes, he's a keeper. ) I had been wanting to try to make some bandsaw boxes for quite a while (probably after several were shared here in the Village no doubt.) This gave me the perfect opportunity to try some. The patterns are from a book I purchased, "The New Bandsaw Box Book - Techniques and Patterns for the Modern Woodworker" by David Picciuto. I have made the first two boxes from the book. The first one is aptly called the "Tennessee" box, the state in which I live. I would say that the design - very roughly sort of looks like the outline of the state (but not really. ) The second one is the "St Louis" Box inspired by the "gateway arches." I used scraps we had in the shop since these were my first attempts. Thus the "walnut" in the middle of the St Louis Box does not match up as he has in the book. I had two scraps of walnut, one was dark and one was not. I did flock the inside of each piece and the inside of the drawer with a navy blue flock. I enjoyed making these and plan to try some more. Thanks for looking.

Check out this link:

I always struggle trying to clamp up the cylinders for a project like this. The minute I tighten my clamps the pieces loose alignment and slide around. Do you have any tricks on a project like this?

I purchased the Bowl C-30 pattern from the Etsy site of Alex Fox. I enlarged the pattern by 25%. The wood is solid 1/4" Cherry 10 inch square. I used #68 drill bit and #1 FD UR blades. I finished with a spray coat of Shellac. The most time consuming was the glue up. glue a ring, let dry for 30 minutes, and glue another ring. While waiting for the glue to dry, I cut three Miniature Birdhouse Ornaments. Comments welcome.

Well I was able to change some of these patterns around a little bit. I interchanged some of the bodies. I used the top part of one and drew the bottom part from another one. The red one is normal size napkins and the yellow one is with the cocktail/beverage napkins which are only 5 x 5. I'm messing around with another one now to. Have to get some fancy napkins for that one.

Being a native Marylander I had to make this when I saw it in the Fall 2018 SSW&C Magazine. I tortured myself by using a piece of true 3/4” Purple Heart that I had around. That is not the easiest wood to scroll, especially when it’s that thick.Hard on blades! I just finished cutting it, now comes more “fun” with a lot of hand sanding. Got Old Bay?

I have made a few of Alex's bowls. My husband gave one to his Orthotist, at the last appointment I noticed the bowl on his desk holding a couple pieces of fruit. I prefer candy, but to each his own.

I'm late i see. But thought i would throw my two cents in. This is the way i would save the ones you cut until you could get a pattern sized correctly. Was thinking something like this. Russell

Definitely worthy of at least a good backer! Nice cut! And yeah, something like that would probably take me 6-8 hours to cut.

I've had a ton of request from customers this last year for many of the record clock styles but cut from wood.. I started looking into files a bit.. there seems to be a ton of files made for the CNC laser.. many are selling on eBay.. I'm sure i've seen this somewhere.. but these sellers seem to be scattered all over the place for the CNC type files.. from Amazon, eBay and even Etsy.. I found several I want to buy from eBay and will be doing some soon.. Not sure is wall hanging clocks are making a comeback or what.. I mostly sold out of them over the holidays and slowly building back my inventory. If I run across this one I'll point you to it.. Many times if you see a file made for CNC you can ask the seller to change it to PDF.. they probably scratch there heads on that as to why because they won't work on your CNC. but most are happy to do so.. Then you just print the file like a normal pattern..

Steve has put a video on Youtube about the matt. It doesn't come with the saw. Hope nobody minds me 'butting' in on this conversation, but it's the 'only' thing I know as I have one

Your right, kids do love color and they are sure to love those. Great work Steve. Marg

They look great Rob, I think they should sell well. Marg

Well Kevin I will share my knowledge from the pen turning world because Epoxy resins have become popular there and I have used them with good success. First off there are many types of epoxy resins out there from casting resins to bar top resins and everything in between. The casting resin is the one you want. It is durable when cured and as I said used in the pen making hobby so it has to be. What makes this stuff a good fit is it dries super clear, does not require a pressure pot to get rid of bubbles, polishes to a high shine, and as I said durable but also sticks to everything just about. That is why it gets used for pens. I shown this pen, my scrollsaw blade pen, here before but I made this last year for a contest and it was cast in epoxy resin. The 2 leaders in the market are Liquid Diamonds which this is and Royal Palm. Both are very good and not sure on price but bet they are comparable. There are many new players and I have no knowledge of how good they are. If you are just coating things you could get away with bar top resins but you want one that is super clear. Most have a yellow tint. No to the buying gallons unless you are going to be doing a ton of these. Shelf life is about one year if stored in cool but not below freezing temps and not high heat. It is a 2 to 1 ratio mix that is crucial. We use a scale to measure the parts. Those are cheap. This stuff is water thin and thus gets in all the nooks and crannies but needs a mold to hold in place. Silicon molds are great because when sprayed with a mold release agent the resin does not stick to it. I use Stoner mold release. A little goes a long way. This stuff does not generate alot of heat as it cures because it cures very slowly. Usually 24 hours. This gives those tiny bubbles a chance to rise to the top and burst. A small hair dryer can help this too when passed over it. You do not go crazy when stirring but need to stir thoroughly getting all corners of the cup or container. That 2 to 1 ratio is critical. It will generate bubbles but will dissipate. It can be tinted and things added to it. Without seeing the item I can not suggest what or how to cast. It can be sanded planed cut but then needs to be polished. In the pen turning world we polish with Micro mesh pads and use water as the carrier. You could put on a buffer and use white diamond and then top with an automotive wax. Good luck.

Great looking cars. Kids love them!

nice toy cars. Those are really special to the kids and the older guys who grew up with these rods running everywhere. I loved seeing them at the drive up restaurants when I was in high school. Very well done. and very appealing Dick heppnerguy

Never mind. I think I'm having a SENIOR moment!

Those came out super Melanie!

Looks great Marg! I very seldom where a dust mask but working with MDF I sure do.

Well said, Paul. Hard to believe it was that long ago. I am in complete agreement about becoming a family member here. One only has to log on and participate and soon they understand what THE VILLAGE is all about. It sure is nice to see your progress, but where the heck is mine? Anyway, I have made a few efforts to help people as they begin their journey in scrolling and some of them have become what I like to think of as a real friend. I have personally met a few people from here and I have not found one that I have not liked personally once I have. Dick heppnerguy

Thanks Jim. I think some of the difference is caused by my phone camera and the different colour backgrounds. Here is another picture of the cats where the colour is much closer although it does have some streaking so you are probably right that that one is sapwood. Rob

Hi Dick: Absolutely right Dick That was back in Sept. 2013 - Still have what you sent me back then This is what this site is all about - The experienced ones (notice I didn't say "Old")...lol teach the rookies so the learning chain can continue This is what makes THE VILLAGE a great place to be You may enter as a complete stranger but within days you become a Villager and a family member Heck, you may even make a friend or 2 Now, back to our regular scheduled program Fab4

Congratulations Marg on the great cutting and to Paul, who ask me to help him understand how to work GIMP, all so long ago and look how far he has come with it and last but not least, Congratulations to the bride and groom to be, that gets to have all this work become an ever lasting memory from Their special day Dick heppnerguy

SSV quality!!!!

Scare me!!!

I will differ slightly with the advice to avoid plywood. Yes, plywood does have a lot of glue in it, which can shorten the life of blades somewhat, but I don't think it's all that dramatic of a difference between cutting plywood and any solid hardwood. The key is finding the right plywood. Good quality plywood will give you pretty uniform resistance, when cutting. Voids should be minimal, if not non-existent. Many scrollers use Baltic birch plywood for their projects. Personally, I don't think it's best for everything. When practical, I prefer to use hardwoods myself for most things. But for certain types of projects, plywood is an excellent medium. Now, as I said, the key is good quality plywood. Good quality ply can be as expensive or even more so that some hardwoods. But, if you know of any cabinet shops or lumber yards in your area, you can likely find all the scraps you could possibly use in their dumpster. Most places will be willing to give it to you, for the asking, because they have to dispose of it anyway. Good quality plywood, be it Baltic birch or cabinet grade ply can be identified by counting the number of layers in the ply. Of course the number of layers will depend on the thickness of the ply, but relatively speaking, the more layers the better. For example, 1/2" thick construction grade plywood may have 3 or perhaps 5 layers. 1/2" thick Baltic birch or cabinet grade ply will have at least 7 layers and up to 9. Baltic birch ply and cabinet grade ply will have smoother, more defect free face veneers. Not all that important for practicing, but it speaks to the quality of the plywood. So, if you can find a source for some good quality ply, it will make an excellent material for you to practice on. I've been using it to teach my grandson how to scroll and we have no problems with it. If it dulls the blades a little faster, I don't worry. Blades are a consumable and you will use a lot of them and probably break your share as well, while practicing. The few extra that you might go through by using plywood won't break the bank. Good luck and have fun making sawdust!

Don't have any tips, but wanted to say what a beautiful piece of work you have made there..

Believe me, I know just what you're talking about. All I have to do is get 5 steps away from the john and it kicks in. Actually, I've renamed our "john" to "jim" so I can say that I go to the "gym" every day at least once.

Here are a few of mine.

I did this for my grandsons birthday tomorrow, he will be 16. He loves American basketball and as you can see his favorite player is LeBron James. The pattern is by Mahendra ( @multitom ) Marg

Oh my gosh! Fantastic!