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The pattern for the Richmond Tiger was done for me a while ago by @Fab4 Paul and the Sydney Swans plaque was done by @scrollriffic Bobby. This is just one part of a large order but thankfully there is no rush, I can take my time with it. Marg

I think that's what these saws were called. I took a pattern for this saw and reduced it a little. I left out the scene that is supposed to be in it and routered my daughter's and son in laws name in it. I am giving a demo on how to make / router signs for the guild I belong to, and this is one of my examples. the handles are oak, the brackets are walnut and the sign is curly maple. It is about 26" long. After routering the letters I painted them black. This will fit perfect with their decor.

I had this pattern for awhile and decided to give it a go. Purchased from Sheila Landry and since spring is coming I thought robins were appropriate.

One more cross to my collection 4 layers, 4 mm (about 1/8 inch) Video of making cross (YouTube) Pattern

Projects on hold and in progres. The first is the wood is crumbling and the other one is my house number. The plain pattern is a Steve good pattern with changed font and a plain from SSV. The plain is from Neplun Janeuski. both in working stages. I have put the pattern together.

Lisa Simpson stands 4" tall and is made with natural wood tones, no stains or paint. I used Yellowheart, Padauk and Maple. I am making magnets of each of the Simpsons. I have Lisa finished and the rest of the family to go. I'm trying out a new thing where I make a short animation of the dry fitting, let me know what your thoughts are with that; I want to know if it is something I should keep doing. Here is a link to my build album; let me know what you think! https://imgur.com/gallery/xweCZGU Assembly.mp4

I'm one of those guys. Having never used BLO before up to a couple months ago, I did a side by side comparison using blo and tung oil on scrap all sanded to the same grit, 220. The only difference to me was tung oil appeared to be a little richer, and ever so slightly deeper in color. So for me, ill stick with tung oil. I wait a week before spraying with deft lacquer. Whenever I contemplate a new finish, I test it on scrap first. Then I write on the back of the scrap and throw it in the drawer for future reference. To edit....If you haven't watched any of Charles Neil finishing videos on you tube you're missing out. He is the expert in my opinion. Will keep you busy for awhile. Just search his name

This is Garden Kitty by Jacob Fowler. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Straight lines always gave me a problem- I did better with this. Not quite perfect but at least now it was do to me not having consistent pressure pushing it thru instead of the blade wobbling. Felt more in control doing tight corners than before.Did break a bridge on one of the fairy wings, now it just looks like a double wing. 1/4 in BB, 2/0 FD blade.

The local show here starts each year in March, skips June and July (just too hot in the barn), so being the procrastinator that I am sometimes, I started cutting

A couple years ago I bought spray equipment. I was using 10 rattle cans a week. Way too much money. I use SW precat lacquer in medium rub. I can buy it for $29 a gallon. I have done a couple pieces with Danish oil and sprayed the lacquer over it and have seen no visual difference in look. I can tint the lacque whenever I want colors..........This works for me.

Doing something a little different from my normal. I’m stepping up a notch with my clocks. Normally I use plywood backers but I don’t like the cheap looks the plywood edges give. So I’m working with real walnut and cherry here. Stack cut 3 of these from BBply with the solid wood backer. I have a 2-3/4 ( I think ) clock insert that I’ll be drilling out yet for. Picture with just the clock resting on the top to give visual idea. Anyway, I'm hoping for a rich deep looking sheen but not glossy. Was thinking about BLO mix and top coat with lacquer. Or Danish oil as I’m out of BLO at the moment. Anyway I’m not much of a finisher other than Danish oil or mineral oil and beeswax mix. Which the beeswax mix does give the finish look like I want. But I’m not sure really how durable a finish that is. What’s tung oil? Is it a oil similar to the BLO? Since I’ll likely have to buy whatever I finish with except the Danish oil or beeswax mix. Maybe time to experiment with something else. Anyway throw me some ideas.

Decided to try this (twice), might make a nice potpourri dish or a place to toss your car keys when you get home

Keep 'em comin' folks. Thanks. I seem to remember someone saying 70/30 ratio. I did buy odorless mineral spirits although I haven't opened it yet to see if it truly is odorless or just "tolerable" LOL

I've always heard 50/50 as well.. but I've also heard to do different ratios too I was thinking the different ratios gave a different luster type... I may be wrong on that though.. I did do a trial run of the 50/50 mix last year and it worked well.. but.. I personally like Danish oil because of the polyurethane in the mix for a little better protection.. And.. I didn't like the smell of the mix.. though I don't know what kind of Mineral Spirits I had... as I just bought a thing of it.. Believe it was low odor but I've seen stuff that said odorless..

It seems like I recall somebody on here suggesting a 50/50 ratio. Not sure but that sure sticks in my head. I think it might have been Dgman.

very nice

Nicely done,everyone loves Lisa

Two good guys gave you two great patterns and once again you did an exceptional job on them. Love the Sydney one as I was born in Sydney,Nova Scotia...

Never was Crazy about that show,but you did an Awesome job with Lisa.

Very good, luv um. Roly

We all hate long straight lines but we all have our own way of dealing with them, yours do not look too bad. Only you know what you did wrong so you don't have to tell anyone they would be none the wiser. I think you garden kitty looks purrrfect. Well done. Marg

I love watching your build videos, keep them up. Your Lisa is absolutely perfect, well done. Marg

I love this scene. But then again I love all beach scenes, I just hate water. Another fabulous job Bernd. Good look with the cataract surgery. Marg

I cut for about an hour and I didn’t have any issues with the tubes or anything. Didn’t get much cut because I was trying to practice top feeding the blade. But after several attempts near quitting time I just started bottom feeding. Lol Here is what I cut. (Picture from earlier as I got it mostly all cut now. )

Looks great, love the wood !

Beautifully done! And, you've picked a great pattern too. I love cats.

The only thing BLO gets you, when you end up topcoating it, is that it will impart an amber tint to the wood and make the grain pop more than some topcoats alone. Finishes like oil based varnish, polyurethane and Danish oils, already have some sort of drying oil as an ingredient (that the oil in "oil based"), so if you are going to use them as a top coat, then there really is no advantage to using BLO or tung oil first. The oil in varnish/poly/Danish oil will do the exact same thing as the BLO/tung oil alone does. I use it if I'm going to use a waterborne top coat, because the waterborne finishes go on clear and don't warm up the wood with the amber tint. But, I don't like the thought of applying a waterborne poly over an oil, even if it's fully cured, so I'll apply a coat of shellac to seal the oil and act as a barrier, so I don't have any problems with the waterborne topcoat. For all practical purposes, the BLO step in this finishing schedule is sort of a waste as well, because shellac will impart an amber tint and pop the grain, just like BLO does, so there is really no advantage to the applying BLO first. I don't use lacquer, because I can't take the odor, so I can't offer any advice about that. For my money, a simple Danish oil finish would accomplish what you want on that piece. Keep it simple.

Just gotta tell this. I have those test tubes. been using them for years. Little more shopping on E-bay and you can find them for like 25 of right around $6. But for storing the tubes with the blades in them, I have tried many different way and things. I made several different things and was never really satisfied. Finally I ordered one of the test tube holder shown in the picture. It was like $4 on E-bay. Holds a total of 60 tubes but I don't use all the rows. I leave an empty row in between just because I don't have 60 different types of blades and it makes it easier this way to read the labels on the tubes and to get them in and out. This has been the absolutely best setup I have ever had in my years of scrolling. The holder is what is used in labs and hospitals.

Nice job! Always fun to have a new tool.

Very well done. Straight lines are the hardest thing to cut with a scroll saw. I use a lot of Flying Dutchman blades, but have found that when cutting straight lines or circles, Pegas blades work the best. I thin wood I use there #1 skip tooth reverse blade.

Yeah me too but poly is all I used at first.. then JT mentioned using the lacquer and I do like the look a little better.. I'll probably end up using poly on these since I bought several cans last year as they say lacquer... but they aren't really they smell and finish like poly. it was a store brand ( do it best I think ) and it's not what it says it is.. LOL But I'm going to use them up..

Yeah, I can get that.. I did use it a long long time ago on something.. It's hard to find it but I have seen it.. Forgot about that stuff.. Hmm.. maybe I'll try some of that again on one of these.. Planning to dip at least two of them today..maybe I'll save out one of the walnut ones and try Deft..

Thank you JT for the response.. I have in the past dipped with danish oil and then sprayed lacquer over a few weeks later... But I thought I had ready not to do this.. so I stopped doing that.. always thought they came out great.. but when I thought I'd read about not top coating it.. I thought maybe it was a bad thing for long term for some reason... So that said.. I believe I'll use my tried and true Danish oil and then top coat in a few weeks.. Yes it's a wall clock.. I made a few last year testing to see how they might sell.. and they do great... maybe better than the deck clocks because I only have a few wall clocks and I sold quite a few last year with the 15 or so I had.. vrs. the 120 ish desk clocks I have.. so.. I thought I'd add more this year.. nice thing about the wall clocks is I can stack cut and use a backer.. Guess I could with some of the desk clocks to but I seen someone a few years ago doing that and they really didn't look all that great.. Just being production minded here, LOL Wanting to go with solid wood ones so I can carve out the back for the movement on the ones I use a movement on so they hang closer to the wall.. just a nicer look.. I'll switch over the current ones I sell to this method too as most are sold out from last year anyway.. Again, Thank you,

You are in production mode,, the "oils" take a long time to dry/cure. Now if it were me and it isn't, I'd use Deft spray Lacquer if you can get it where you live. Great durable finish, dries very quickly. I'd put on three or so coats. Only down side to me is the smell. Only finish of that type, that I hate the smell of... but it dissipates quickly also.

Kevin I wish we lived closer. I could show you first hand and with product in hand the differences. First I think we discussed this before but the basics are. Linseed oil is a product that is seldom used in finishing because it really does not dry. Boiled linseed oil is derivative of this but is a thin down version and a mix of agents such as driers so that it will absorb well into the wood as does linseed oil but will cure faster. Tung oil is basically the same thing but comes from a different plant. Linseed oil is similar to flaxseed oil but not drinkable. Now Danish oil is basically BLO but has polyurethane added to give it somewhat a tougher finish and a small sheen. They have driers in them to help dry faster but with all finishes, dry does not mean cured. That takes different times due to weather conditions in your drying area such as humidity and temps. With these finishes usually one coat is all that is needed because no more will be absorbed and you are just laying it on and sometimes it cures in puddles and not a good look or feel. All these products can be top coated with poly or lacquer to give the protection and shine you desire and that is up to you. I always prefer lacquer over poly because withlaquer you are not building layers as you do with poly, but rather are making a thicker layer and the depth looks deeper . I rarely use poly. I basically use poly if it is an outdoor piece or something that needs a stronger protection. Lacquer does not dry as hard as poly. Lacquer is a finish that is more forgiving and easier to repair. Now most furniture people use lacquers but it is not the same as we use and their finish is tougher. Now the old saying is do not mix finishes and it is true. But with Danish oil the amount of poly is small so it will not affect anything if you top coat with lacquer. I have done it many times but again making sure the piece is cured and not just dried. I like the look of satin lacquers on many projects or will go to gloss. I never use semigloss because it is a look that is in between and shows you did not make a commitment. Again this is a personal choice thing. That clock is a wall hanger from what I can tell and will not get abused from touching all the time so any finish will do. Most my projects I sell are finished with Watco Danish oil and then are top coated with watco satin wax. Again I mentioned this before the look and feel of a piece comes down to sanding. I sand all projects with 220 grit paper and thus I get a nice feel. Anything less you leave the grain more open and the feel gets rougher. I can not tell you what or how to finish that piece because it is a look thing. Good luck. I will say this all finishes are toxic and the smell is strong so work in a well ventilated area. Just a more direct answer to your first question, the difference with BLO you buy and one you mix is unless you are also adding a drier to the mix then it is a thinned down version without the driers. Bought stuff has driers and helps dry and cure faster. Now your version can dry faster if you thin down alot more. Remember BLO is a thinned down version of Linseed oil already. If it is thick then it is going bad.

very nice

What advantage does BLO vrs the mix 50/50 BLO and mineral spirits have? Dry times? I did the mix thing last year and I liked the results.. I top coated with lacquer after a couple weeks drying time.. The BLO without the mix seemed quite thick to use by dipping the piece in.. Maybe better as a rubbing / polishing type finish? I've read two things about BLO or at least the mix. and on one hand some say it needs a top coat.. while others have said it has drying agents in it if it's BLO.. If it's just LO then it does need a top coat? I realize a lot of mis-information out there that people spread because they are mis informed in the first place.. seems to be a lot of confusion with these oil finishes as to whether they are a finish or just an enhancer before finishing.. This is why I haven't really messed to much with finishing.. because I sell my items and I don't want someones purchase to look like crap in a year or two because the oil dried out or whatever..

Tung oil is really very similar to BLO, in most respects. Both are drying oils and both can be used as the base ingredient for paint, Danish oil and varnish/poly. Real tung oil is a little less popular and not as commonly available as BLO. It takes a long time to cure. Beware, as there are a lot of finishes on the market that have "tung oil" in their name, but likely don't contain any real tung oil. Some guys prefer it over BLO, claiming it has a deeper, richer tone, but the bottom line is that on a piece like yours, you probably wouldn't notice much difference between it and BLO.

Hey an Awesome job!!Never would have noticed the wing.

I had to start on this one twice.The First time Paul Newman's eye fell out,so the 2nd time I redrew it as I was laying it out on the wood.Let me tell you I was still breathing soft and shallow when I got to it.And Redford's hair.But I got it cut.A Big sigh of relief.

This is my first project of the new year.....I did it because I had been reading about segmentation scrolling for a while. After doing a few smaller pieces to work out the bugs, i tackled this piece. I was very pleased with the result, and have gone on to do several other animals since then, including, wolves, lions, bears, horses, and a couple more. I intend to sell them at fairs and festivals this summer.

Always eager to learn, I looked up Charles Neil on youtube. However the sound quality is such that his videos are unwatchable. Such a shame.