Leaderboard

Another project for my B-I-L. His dad used to fly a B-25 in WWII. He set up a memorial stand with a folded flag and pictures. Cutting went fast, design, not so fast. Had to go to the copy store twice since the first one was too small. 19.5" x 12" final size. 1/8" BBPW on 1/4" backer. Time to give my eyes a rest for a while.

The words construction and clear pine may not be the correct terminology. This week end I cut a couple of things. One was a tractor I had started a couple of months ago and quit. I quit because the grain pattern was so pronounced that the blade would cut a few strokes and then grind away for a bit and then start cutting again. It was a pain. It was what I call construction grade or cheap stuff. I then cut a Steve Good word pattern in what I call clear pine. It cut so silky smooth, almost like Poplar. The grain nearly invisible. I cut pine because it is fairly inexpensive and readily available. There two HD and Lowes near my home. Perhaps I'm the only scroller that did not know about the extreme differences. I was amazed.

After 2 months off from cutting I'm starting to get back into the rhythm... A nice assortment cut over the weekend. Goal is 40 a week til my events begin Easter weekend (April 19/20 Fri/Sat). I have 3 major weekend events in a row right out of the gate. I should hear about my new Pegas saw soon. Look forward to trying it out. Iggy

This is a Steve Good pattern. We were on vacation at an RV park and I downloaded this pattern and used their woodshop to make this good luck symbol.

Here's my first project of 2019. Took my quite some time to find a pattern I liked for this project. Found it hand painted on a drum in a museum, snapped a pic and I was off and running. This is the 3rd of 4. Now to locate the pattern for #4 The critters are walnut inlaid into a basswood blank. Chris

The other point is that you have one that is quarter sawn and one plain sawn. The species of wood and how it was sawn make huge differences in its properties.

This was a birthday gift for my sister' in laws husband who is a very keen supporter of the Manly sea eagles (Sydney rugby league side). It took me some time to do as I had to match the colours & also the letters were cut out first then glued on.The rest was segmentation. I also made the frame. Cheers Peter

I have been working on this on and off for a few days when I have time. I still have some work to do around the base. But I’m happy with the way it’s looking so far. It’s a combination of 2 patterns. There is a 1/2” spacer between the front and back to give it some depth.

I have been making three of these each week for four weeks. This is my favorite display for the Miniature Birdhouse Ornaments.

I have been very much enjoying making these little critters for a couple months. They are all under 3 inches tall. Except for the one dragon. I blew up the drawing and made the smaller one a big brother. He's 5 1/2 inches tall. I think there is 40 of them so far.

So I saw these pictures on Pinterest and I wanted to try it. Wasn’t sure how it would turn out if it was cut. I got a picture of my daughter and her boyfriend and made a pattern in GIMP. I’m happy with the results. However the next time I make one of these I will paint the wood first then cut it.

I had a lul in portrait ideas so too inspiration from the puzzles post here. I did a pattern search on Google and found some patterns. All of these together took less time than one portrait. Thank you all

I now have Lisa and Bart finished up. I made Bart using yellow-heart, padauk, maple, wenge (for back layer) and walnut (airbrushed blue). Here is the build album if you are interested: https://imgur.com/gallery/R9KCn0H

I made Hank Hill from the show King of the Hill. I used walnut for the hair, oak for the skin, maple for the shirt and eyeballs, ebony doe the glasses and Wenge for the back silhouette layer.

I've never operated a Central Machinery brand saw, but that same saw is sold under various brand names. My biggest concern would be vibration and blade travel. A few years ago, I was given a saw that was very much like that one. It was a Performax brand, but other than color, it looked exactly the same. It was unusable and I gave it back. There was so much vibration and blade wobble, plus the table wasn't flat, making squaring up the blade impossible. The one I had didn't take plain end blades, so I researched and ordered kits to convert them. They didn't fit and it wouldn't have been worth the effort anyway. Now I'm not saying that the Central Machinery saw in your link will be the same dumpster fire that the Performax was, but I'd be real leery of any saw of that style. It may be a step up from what you are currently using, but don't have high expectations for it.

The PC saw comes from the same stable as the Hitchai and I used a CW40 for many years with no problems. My annoyance with it was blade changes. Required a 3mm hex head. Hopefully, Porter changed that and went tool less. Definitely an upgrade for some, but as I said the CW40 was a solid performer. As you know, even an inexpensive saw will work better with quality blades (and determination from the driver).

I like red oak looks but I also don’t like the smell of it. The bland look is really an opinion and dependent on project at hand. Most of my clocks that I make from oak.. by the time I do all the cutouts there’s not enough wood to really see the wood grain anyway. I do agree with this on larger portrait type designs and some of the clock designs. Oak is my last go to type wood, much rather work with cherry as that is my go to wood. Love working with walnut too but I don’t think it looks good but only on certain projects as the darker color doesn’t always show the details as good. But it’s all personal preferences and options.

My saw is a 23 year old Hitachi CM40. It's a very good saw, still runs like a top. I am starting to have troubles with it occasionally, since they don't make it any more and parts are obsolete, so have been shopping for a replacement. Being on a fixed income I cant afford a 788. Scroll Saw Woodworking magazine did an article on the Porter Cable and gave it high reviews. Also, Steve Good did a review, (video on you tube), and he also gave it a good review. A buddy of mine bought one at Lowes ( $199 plus tax) and he loves it. He had an issue out of the box. The lower blade holder was stripped. He called Porter Cable directly, they wasted no time sending him a replacement blade holder. Then he was off to the races! My new saw (hopefully this week) will be the new Porter Cable. I hope this helps you. Good luck and happy scrolling.

I had a porter cable and it was a pretty good entry level saw. However, the link you gave was for a central machinery saw and I don't know much about that one. From the looks of it, it only takes pinned blades. They would probably be a huge step up from your 3" dremel blades, but if you get a saw that can do pinless blades you will be much happier in the long run. Edit: I looked at the manual on the harbor freight. It does have adapters to use pinless blades.

I had to do this with a coffee table I made - it was a real PITA but better than rebuilding the whole piece. What I did was: First I tried Vinegar - only thing this achieved was saturating the wood and made it brittle while trying to separate it. Also tried water = see the vinegar issue above! What worked for me was: Using a heat gun I "warmed" the area where the glue was (don't get it too hot to burn the wood), then using a thin blade (I used an exacto) I sliced and pried at the warmed glue, while slowly separating the the glued pieces Over all this took me about an hour or of consistently working at it - but it was better than 12+ hours of rebuilding the table! Hope that helped

The problem with quartersawn is the look is bland. With flatsawn wood you pick up the natural rays. I will not use quartersawn wood in my scrollsawn projects. I deal with warpage many different ways if it happens. Red oak is my go to wood. Love the look.

What glue are you useing? If it's Tight bond The only thing I have found is soak it in vinigar let it soak for 2 or 3 hours. I have had to soak for 6 hours. It just makes the wood gummy then you have to scrape off the glue. Sometimes it is easier to staryt over. IKE

I use popular I get it at Paxton woods there is only 3 stores in the us. it is plainedd to .800 but the edges are rougn for most scrollers that don't mean anything, the price is good only $275 per board foot I get walnut for $6 per board foot and other common hard wood for $3 to $5 pr board foot. I very seldom use pine unless it is free.So I don't know much about the grains of woods. to me Popular is the way to go. ike

Sycamore67 really nailed it. Any species of wood that is cut quarter sawn will give you that same experience. Quarter sawn wood is actually more expensive and is sought after by many furniture makers as the wood does not cup and twist like flat sawn wood. https://www.advantagelumber.com/sawn-lumber/

Brianr24 is correct, I did it here: Just go slowly, keep the heat gun moving so you do not scorch the wood.

I keep coming back to look at this. I may have to find the pattern or very similar to it. My son got to go up for a ride in one and while sitting in the co-pilot seat, the pilot said "hey Brian, take over for me, I'll be back in a minute" and he got up in left... My son got to fly it... He says it was one of the hi-lites of his flying career. In all his many hours/years of flying though, he has not gotten to go up in a open cockpit bi-plane,,, yet. I have that one up on him, I have gotten to do it twice....

You have to do a "copy and paste" on that one. It's not a clickable link.

Another pattern from Sheila Landry, this time it is a Grosbeak, a little intricate cuts but overall not too bad.

a friend of mine owns a fabric store and one of her customers drop their thread holder and broke parts of it. She called me I took a look at it and proceed to give it a try. I put it back together with thicker pieces . Hopefully if she drops it again it will not break as easy. thanks for looking

I had this pattern for awhile and decided to give it a go. Purchased from Sheila Landry and since spring is coming I thought robins were appropriate.

My old Dremel scroll saw finally cut its last hole last night (motor mount casing broke where the mount attaches to the saw body). Amazon.com has a Wen for $105, but Harbor Freight has a PorterCable saw for $95 plus 20% coupons. I've heard stories about HF quality (buy it cheap, buy it often), and have read good things about the Wen here on the forums. HF reviews for their saw are generally good, but quite a few bad reviews as well, so I was wondering if anyone here had any personal experience with a PorterCable saw? I've got one of their drill presses, which seems to work okay for poking holes in things, but I tend to prefer to buy now and use until it falls apart (like the Dremel!). I know there are better saws, but until I can afford a DeWalt or Excalibur, I need one that will work with a minimum of hassle. https://www.harborfreight.com/16-in-variable-speed-scroll-saw-62519.html I am looking forward to a greatly expanded variety of blades available in the 5" range, though....there's just not much out there in the 3" size that my Dremel limited me to.

Heck, that's standard operating procedure here. I'm too trusting. I openly invite folks to come here to buy/pickup whatever I'm selling. But, there is usually some conversation prior to that. I've been around for a while and sort of know what to look for. Oh, and I usually carry a .357 too.

Form my own personal use,don't buy a Porter Cable,I had one,and within 2yrs it was acting up,slowing down,speeding up,jerking,stopping.I was doing everything I was suppose to do to take care of it.all the proper maintance. They have 2 Special screws.top and bottom.adjustment screws.one you can adjust the other you can't My advice,don't buy the Porter Cable.

Maybe the only good thing about living amongst 30 million people. They sell a lot of stuff. Some of it is actually not stolen.

Sounds like the Wen on Amazon is my best bet.

Great save Mimi. Marg

One on the left is Southern Yellow Pine and the one on the right is white pine. You are correct the construction pine is tougher and the grain lines are tough to cut with a scrollsaw blade. White pine or clear pine as it is called in the field is softer and less harsh grain and makes better for painting and craft work but is not as strong as yellow pine. Then there is Blue pine and Knotty pine. Sugar pine is another term used and that is in the species of white pine.

Me neither, but she has inspired me to new ideas. I have concluded that we might doodle with a pencil. Fiona doodles with a scrollsaw blade.

The pattern was purchased from Fiona Kingdon. Her forte is not pattern making as she doesn’t use patterns, nor does she draw them. She has 5 available on her site, but they are not like patterns that I have ever used before. I believe she adapts them from her completed work by photocopying the work itself. You must be careful as sometimes you can get left hanging with little or no bridging if you don’t plan your cuts carefully. I made changes along the way. The relief cut and glass backing was my feeble attempt to give it at least a little individuality. Funny you should offer the blue glass suggestion as I was/am betwixt and between blue, green or maybe a combo of them both with a blue sky and the green below the tree line. I felt that there was too much empty space to not fill the background.

If it’s regular wood glue you can try a heat gun.

Very, very well done. Very unique... I have not see that done before.

The first shot is just the wood. It is 1” thick Red Oak done with a relief cut around the perimeter. Today I cut a piece of stained glass and mounted it in back with the cartoon recessed in the relief area. I haven’t set everything permanent yet. Looking for critique from you all.

I've recommended these books several times, in various finishing threads. I'll do so again. They really are worth the effort to get and read.

Awesome. Thanks for sharing

Marg, You did a great job on those.

Looks great can almost hear his wisdom when he speaks lol

I'm probably the wrong person to answer that, LOL since I myself have been asking a lot of questions about finishes.. If I were you.. since you have the stuff to mix up your finish I'd go for that.. and see whether you like it or not.. Danish oil is basically the same thing with polyurethane added to it.. In fact I've read that some add poly to their homemade mix of BLO.. If you don't like the BLO mix.. you probably won't really like Danish oil either.. since it is very similar.. I just posted this thread the other day.. JT responded with some really good info to think about.. There was another thread within the last year I think that I did where JT posted about the different oils and mixes that can be done.. Think he even mentioned about adding in the Poly to the mix of BLO.. Anyway maybe read what JT said here.. Think it's probably one of those things where is a matter of preference..

I use a Hegner,,, my stuff doesn't look like that, I think I will sell the darn thing.....

My first project was a big one. I am working on developing my technique of creating layered cartoon style scroll saw art. I spent roughly 40 hours on this project. The dimension (including frame) are 15.5"x21.5". I used naturally colored wood with no stains along with stained glass to pull this off. Aside from the silhouette layers, I did not use any paints. As for the woods, I used Padauk, Yellowheart, Walnut, Bloodwood, Oak, Figured Maple, Sapele, Aspen, Tigerwood and Mahogany. If you want to see more of my process - here is a link to the full build album https://imgur.com/gallery/BeB2nKi.