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A couple pieces I finished while off work this week. The shuttle is for a friend at work, a sort of going away present. He’s moving. The lighthouse was requested by another friend as a gift for his mom. It was the first time I tried rounding the edges. I have a Dremel with the plunge router attachment that I used. I think it looks better than the squared edges. 3328E379-2E2C-409C-8458-3271A5DB4E7D.MOV

My saw is a 23 year old Hitachi CM40, I bought new. It still runs like atop but has been giving me some problems lately. I used to be able to find parts for it at E-replacement parts. A few days ago a part broke and when I looked, the parts are no longer available for this saw. Any way, I sold a bike today. I went on facebook marketplace to mark the listing sold and , much to my amazement, there's a DeWalt 788 for sale less than 20 miles from me. Well, wish me luck, I'm meeting the guy tomorrow morning. Hopefully all will go well and I get a 788 in my little gray shed.

Interesting 3d effect Birch plywood 4mm (about 1/6 inch), stain, varnish Video of making project Pattern

With all the cold we've had over the past month (3 total days where we made it over 5 degrees), It's been hard to spend very much time in the shop. Even with the heater, too much cold from the garage doors makes it difficult to get much done. But I've been wanting to scroll something fun ever since I got everything going again. This was a really fun one to cut and not too difficult. It was designed by the Village's own Janevski. I really don't know what I'm going to do with it. Maybe I'll build a pistol box around it. What do you think?

I did it! I am now the proud owner of a DW788

Mort, there is a thread or two on here from the slightly distant past where I asked about compound cutting and many people chimed in with great help and information. I will see if I can track it down for you. It is well worth a read through for anyone looking to cut compound cuts. One key thing that I learned from it, as already noted by several here, is that you want to have a skip tooth blade, not a reverse. You need the skip tooth blade so that it will work better to clear out the wood in the cut. This would be particularly true the harder the wood you use. Also, I have learned that there is no "perfect" blade for any one project or any one person. So the best thing to do is try out several and see what one you like and works best for you. The primary thing is you want the biggest blade you can get, that will let you make the turns you need - especially with a hard wood. You may need to order some new blades to work with. If I find the thread(s) I am talking about I will come back and post a link back. EDITED TO ADD: This thread has a discussion and a little ways down has a link to the one I was talking about where there was lots of information/help/instructions in cutting compound cuts in general from several members. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/30749-i-need-some-blade-advice-for-this-compound-cut/?tab=comments#comment-343457

I use plastic “test tubes” - these are the last ones I bought on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CSXXTF0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 i ordered them with different color caps so I could easily distinguish between blade brands that I had. They work well and fit the blades. Looks like they are also cheaper then the baby soda bottle ones. If you don’t like the colored caps, they have these as well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PD9ULS?pf_rd_p=c2945051-950f-485c-b4df-15aac5223b10&pf_rd_r=0GS9J20731MMPKSRHMYY

I have been making three of these each week for four weeks. This is my favorite display for the Miniature Birdhouse Ornaments.

I think a #7 blade is too large to make tight turns and a #5 would be better. You will also need to change blades frequently as the blades will dull more quickly in the dense woods.. I use a jig like that but with small knobs to hold easier, sandpaper on the inside and springs on the threaded rod to maintain constant pressure on the work piece. Without the springs, after you cut part of it, it will not be as tight.

I started to make a tissue box holder from Steves site and had to stop as I found the pattern wasn't right, it was smaller then a normal tissue box, so I had to start over again, so far it is working, will use the one I started for Ornaments. Just to let everyone know check the pattern before you decide to make one.

Thank you all for the help. It looks like Ray is the winner, I ordered the tubes that he found on Amazon. Jim, thanks for the lead on Spangler, they have some nice products. The tubes were longer than any other place I looked at, but I don't like the plastic caps and their shipping charges are way out of line. Melanie, thanks for sending the information on the test tubes that you found. I hope everyone has a great day. THINK SPRING!!!

Here's where I bought mine years ago: https://www.stevespanglerscience.com/?s=BABY+SODA+BOTTLES&post_type=product (Just ordered some for the new blade brands I'm now trying)

As far as simplicity is concerned, it isn't really necessary to add mineral spirits to the BLO. It helps application and absorption somewhat, but that's about it. You could just apply the BLO right from the container, just like you do with the mineral oil. The practical difference between BLO and mineral oil, is that BLO is a drying oil. It takes a while, but BLO will eventually cure. Mineral does not. BLO also imparts slightly more amber tint to the wood than mineral oil, which helps pop the grain, especially on dark wood. In reality, neither one is really a true "finish" in the technical sense. Neither builds a film and neither is an effective barrier against moisture vapor. They do both alter the appearance of raw wood and water will bead up on the surface of wood that has been oiled, but only temporarily. I don't mean to denigrate either product. Both have their uses and I use both, from time to time, but only for specific purposes. There really isn't anything magical about either one. Just be careful with any BLO soaked rags. They are a fire hazard and proper disposal is essential, in order to prevent a fire.

I have been working on this on and off for a few days when I have time. I still have some work to do around the base. But I’m happy with the way it’s looking so far. It’s a combination of 2 patterns. There is a 1/2” spacer between the front and back to give it some depth.

Here was one of this weekends project. Done on Basswood. Wolves and Eagles are some of my favorites to cut. Dragons too but I don't find a lot of Fret Dragons.

Hi everyone, I don't even know if that's the correct name for these tubes. I ordered some on Amazon and was disappointed when they came in, it was my fault because I obviously didn't read the complete advertisement. I wanted these to store my scroll saw blades in, but they were only 4 1/2 inches long, and we need at least 5 inches, the ones that were delivered to me were very sturdy and I'm sure they wouldn't break if they hit the floor. I would also like use these to store some specialty brad point drill bits, it would prevent the sdges of the drill bits from banging together. I'm sure I read on one of the forums that someone orderd them and the blades fit perfectly, this old brain doesn't want to cooperate in helping me find them on the internet. Than you in advance for any help finding these really nice tubes with screw on caps (Soda Bottles).

I think that's what these saws were called. I took a pattern for this saw and reduced it a little. I left out the scene that is supposed to be in it and routered my daughter's and son in laws name in it. I am giving a demo on how to make / router signs for the guild I belong to, and this is one of my examples. the handles are oak, the brackets are walnut and the sign is curly maple. It is about 26" long. After routering the letters I painted them black. This will fit perfect with their decor.

The local show here starts each year in March, skips June and July (just too hot in the barn), so being the procrastinator that I am sometimes, I started cutting

Iggy, I'm like you. I dip mine in MS for maybe a minute and take it out. Let it drip dry for a day and wipe it down. You have been doing a lot of puzzles with out to much of a problem. You know the old saying. Don't fix it if it isn't broke. I guess it's what ever works for you.

Go to lee valley.com and search for tubes in hardware.

Paul, you have to have a lot of patience for doing that. My compliments to you. Looks great.

Great job on that Dave. Your right. I think I would of stacked cut a few of those. Very sharp cuts to.

That came out great Brenda.

I recently ran across a "roll top box" when googling around/pinteresting/looking for bandsaw boxes for ideas. I thought it looked like a neat idea. Decided I wasn't ready to go there and give it a try just yet. Too much of a newbie with the bandsaw and boxes. Look forward to seeing yours. The grain on that looks awesome. Should really pop when finished. Thanks for continuing to share your progress. Make sure to tag me if I miss an update.

Not sure where you're located... but if the deal falls through and you're close to Michigan.. I'm going to be selling a Hawk 220VS for about $200 and also a DeWalt 788 for about $200.. I'll sell the Hawk a lot cheaper but to do that i'll be taking the upgraded parts off for spares for my other Hawks.. I have about $150 in upgrades into that saw..

Serendipity

Beautiful. I enjoy seeing your work always outstanding. Well done.

Sounds like it was meant to be. good luck.

COOL! I'm 20 minutes out of Tyler, out on the backroads. I grew up in Corsicana area.

Nice work! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Search baby soda bottle in amazon.

As always, awesome work, Dave, A treasured gift for sure, Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Great work, Greg, and I think the spray finish is just fine! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

How about something like these? https://www.amazon.com/PH-PandaHall-Containers-130x25mm-Diameter/dp/B0748F7Q5J/ref=sr_1_20?keywords=130mm+test+tubes&qid=1551398949&s=gateway&sr=8-20

I know what you mean, I have done a little compound cutting, not in that hard of wood. I want to do a chess set or two and for the dark wood I plan on cocobolo because I have quite a stash of thick short pieces of it. That is hard, dense wood.

Gordie, I can agree on your word BORDERLINE, the rest; Nope!

terrific job

I'd get a few sizes of "skip tooth" or "Super Skip tooth" blades without reverse teeth. Like #1, #3, #5 see which works the best. I like the Pegas blades for this kind of work, but I am sure other brands have equivalent. Now, keep in mind I have not done a lot of compound cutting so wait for more responses from one with more expertise. Please keep us informed on your progress. A chess set is on my to do list this year. Another note. I just purchased some Pegas blades from QTE North America, Inc. and they sent a nice blade chart of what blades a they have. They sent me the wrong blades, but I do have this nice chart... They are suppose to be sending me the correct blades.

Wow !....Wonderful work !

Beautiful work, and congrats

Oh My that is one awesome bit of scrolling. I do hope it's a paid job with lots of money. Whoever get it will be over the moon with it. Very impressive work Dave. Marg

Really outstanding talent JT!

Fabulous

^^^^^ This Many years ago, my Dad taught me to swing a hammer and use a circular saw with either hand. He told me that on a jobsite, you don't always have the luxury of being able to easily use your dominant hand. Kind of apples and oranges, but I think the basic premise applies here. Sometimes when the blade is fresh, it will cut a little more aggressively on one side than the other. Depending on the detail of the pattern and the room for error, I may use this to my advantage. I think it's good practice for all scrollers to be comfortable cutting in either direction.

Wow Dave. Just Wow! The word masochist comes to mind... Rob

Here's my first project of 2019. Took my quite some time to find a pattern I liked for this project. Found it hand painted on a drum in a museum, snapped a pic and I was off and running. This is the 3rd of 4. Now to locate the pattern for #4 The critters are walnut inlaid into a basswood blank. Chris

Two good guys gave you two great patterns and once again you did an exceptional job on them. Love the Sydney one as I was born in Sydney,Nova Scotia...

Great work. I need to find that Amazing Grace cross.

Couple of things..... Started leaving the leaf attached to a longer runner to cut it out. Much easier. I scroll the veins on the leaf. Then cut the shape on the band saw. With the leaf still attached to the runner, I can just rotate it and do the compound cut for the profile. Complete most of the sanding while it is still attached. Thoughts/comments Next, need your thoughts/opinions on my latest attempt to dress up my band saw boxes. Being that this is a group of very discerning craftspeople, what do you think? Don't hold back.....I want to know. Thanks!

You've gotten plenty of good advice on blade choice. Next is set-up and technique. Compound cutting thick stock presents a different set of challenges. It is absolutely imperative that your blade be perfectly perpendicular to your table, side to side and that it cuts perpendicular. Any variance will be transferred and magnified in 2" stock. Also, take special care when applying the pattern to the stock. It must be placed precisely, in order to get the best results. Also, we all have a tendency to apply side pressure when cutting, to help us stay on the line. This is even more tempting when cutting thick stock. For most fretwork, in 3/4" thick stock, or thinner, this doesn't really hurt that much. But in thick stock, problems with bowed cuts, over or under cutting, misalignment, etc will be amplified. The piece will be harder to remove from the stock. The corners won't line up and the piece will look lop-sided. Good luck. Compound cutting can be really fun.