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Dobby is a house Elf from Harry Potter, Used Oak Ply, made the frames by cutting off the grooved edges from tongue and groove red oak, wipe on poly on ply. Stack cut.

Still a WIP, it's cut, sanded just need to stain and add the bling. Going to a gal friend in N.Y. who is going to some rough times right now. Thanks Bob for doing the pattern for me I really appreciate it.

GEEZ! Wish I'd gotten one a lot sooner. Using spiral blades on my old Hitachi it seemed just as I was getting my groove on..... BROKEN BLADE. On the 788 I cut both these horse portraits and only broke one blade. Also thought the old saw was very light on vibration. Much to my amazement the 788 seems vibration free in comparison. I LOVE IT! Now for some final sanding and finish.

Cold, snow day. Good day to work in my shop.Created my first roll top bandsaw box.Pretty straight forward.I created a list w/the order to cuts....so I can remember. If you're interested, I have pics of the build. I take pics of what I do....whatever it is. I find that when I'm sitting on the couch at night and looking at the pics, I get ideas for better ways to do something or a new idea for something to do. As I was just looking at these pics, when the front of these boxes is cut off, it would be the perfect time to do a scroll on it. To be continued...…...

So I kept looking at those bowls I showed ihe going round n round thread and I got to thinking in my younger days, thinking usually ended with "hold my beer, I can do this" Now being much older and worn out, my thinking ends with "finish the beer, I can do this." So I did

I was a carpenter for about 25 years. Been scrolling off and on over the years. I had serious blood clots in my legs and ended up losing my left leg almost a year ago. Being forced into retirement and not really able to do my usual woodworking very well but I can sit and enjoy my scroll saw so I've been getting serious into my scrolling. I grew up in Texas, moved to Maryland for 22 years, and the last 2 years have been back in Texas. It's sure nice to be home! Been married for 33 years, 2 grown sons and 5 grandsons and 1 granddaughter. Anyway, enough of my rambling. Looking forward to "meeting" new friends, learning more about my hobby, and I'm thinking I may be interested in learning pattern making. BTW, I found this forum from watching pattern making videos on you tube.

Length wise sanding won't solve your problem. Cross wise sanding should help, but it's a lot more difficult to do. You want the sanding scratches for an edge to catch the grip, not make tiny rails for the grip to slide along. Use a sharpening stone and rub the end of the blade across it to make the cross wise scratches. Don't pull the blade lengthwise. The ends of the set screws get worn. A slight turn of the screw will give you fresh edges to bit into the blade. Look closely at the working end of the set screw and you will see a ring shaped ridge. With a magnifying glass, you will likely also see that this ridge is no longer sharp where the blade has worn it off. Turning the screw will give you a fresh sharp ridge again. After you do this repeatedly it will be time to replace the set screw with a new one. Use blue Locktite on the set screw threads to keep it from turning on it's own. Use only the blue Locktite, never another color or you won't ever be able to turn or remove the set screw again. The blue holds it in position, but lets you change the position when you need to. Charley

I've never had a problem with paraffin wax on my saw blades affecting the finishing of my work, so little stays on the blade anyway, but it fills the pores of the blade metal and makes a smoother blade surface reducing the friction and letting the blade run cooler. A cooler blade lasts longer, It also reduces the problem of the saw dust sticking in the gullets of the teeth, so the blade remains cleaner. For best results, I reapply a little after about about every five minutes of cutting and always before beginning cutting with a new blade. To apply, I just cut into the block of wax a very short distance. Then move it a little side to side and then remove the block. I then rub it against the back edge of the blade. I now use paraffin blocks purchased in the canning section of grocery stores. A box of it will likely last you 20 years, if you don't store it in a high heat area. If you do, it will become one very large block of wax and you will need to saw pieces off of it to use it conveniently. It will still be usable though. I usually loose or give pieces away at trade shows and classes long before I use them up, and I still have about 1/2 of the last box that I bought left. Out of the box each piece is about 2 1/2 X 2 1/2 X 3/4, so I cut each one in half as I need more and then work with just the half piece. Old broken candles work well for this too. I also wax the table of my scroll saw using Johnson's Paste Wax before using the scroll saw each day, It makes the work slide easily on the saw table. I do the same with all of my woodworking tool tables, but do it less often, maybe every month or so, or if I realize that my work isn't sliding as easily as it should. Again, it's never been a problem with finishes on my work caused by this waxing, but I always sand my work as a final step before finishing, so if there is any wax on the surface it will be sanded off. I suppose, if I left a thick layer on the saw table, it might cause problems, but I always apply it, let it dry to a haze, and then wipe off the excess. All it's doing is filling the pores of the metal and making the surface more slippery. A second benefit is that it prevents humidity caused rust from forming on the cast iron tables. It won't do much to prevent rust from heavy condensation or a water leak though. I've been doing both of these practices for about the past 65 years without experiencing any wax caused finishing problems. Charley

Is always a good idea to sand the ends of the setscrew and also the thumbscrew once in a while because they do get slick and shinny from metal on metal contact. You can completely take them out or run some sandpaper through the slot where the blade goes.

Thanks for sharing the pics of your progress. I like seeing them. It’s looking great. As far as scrolling on the box, thst was my thought - scrolling on the box fronts thst would be flat once cut off but before reapplying. Look forward to seeing this box completed, did you find the pattern/instructions for this online or developing it yourself?

Brilliant. He can live on my wall any day.

Your cutting is exceptional and the pattern is spectacular. It looks great with or without the background to me.

Those look great. Hopefully the show will be profitable.

Great cutting!

Thanks! I grew up around horses, cows and chickens. I love animals and really enjoy cutting animal portraits and such. I've had a Hitachi CM40 for over 20 years. Bought it new for something like $140. It served me well but it was time for an upgrade and, MAN! am I happy with the upgrade.

Lol Greg,guess I should have said horses.

AWESOME!!!! Although, I echo the request for a pic with the sun behind it.

My Excalibur won't pass the nickel test at any speed, because I have the saw tilted forward and the table waxed. I don't know if the nickel would stay on if laid flat.

I made many compound cuts using the jig method, I found Pegas modified geometry blade # 3 and #1 to cut most hardwoods including sapele . this blade was good on turns and worked better at medium blsde speed and real patient feed rate.

Very nice

Well, tell your wife you can always make her another one.... sell!

very nice job

I'm just a hop and a skip from Whitehouse. When I was a teen we had property there where my horse was kept. Used to terrorize Whitehouse by horse back.

Big state, small world!! I've got some friends who live in that area....Whitehouse, Troupe, that general area.

COOL! I'm 20 minutes out of Tyler, out on the backroads. I grew up in Corsicana area.

That looks very nice from here !

Austin area, myself.

I'm in the Piney Woods of East Texas.

Nice to have you in our family. No problem making new friends here as everyone is so helpful and friendly. All you need to do now is keep logging on, comment on others posts and post your work for all of us to enjoy and comment on too. We have a lot of areas to explore here and hope you take to time to do a self guided tour of it all. Dick heppnerguy

Welcome aboard! Wherezabout in Texas do you call home?

Welcome my friend! Your interest will be pacified immensely finding us.We'll be please to see some of your fabulous work when you can.Keep coming back and i hope you will be a regular here! Thanks for finding us!

Welcome Greg. I’m glad you found us. Enjoy.

Thanks for the nice introduction and welcome to the forum, Greg, I really like the steer skull intarsia/segmentation you showed. Have fun and please show off some of your projects. We love pictures! God Bless! Spirithorse

welcome to the village

Thanks again for the welcomes.

Welcome to the Village Greg. I bet that little granddaughter of yours get really spoilt being the only granddaughter. I am sure you will enjoy your time here. Marg

Welcome to the Village from Canada. Lots of friendly people here just waiting to help you. Dick

Welcome to the Village Greg. Glad to have you as part of the family.

thanks guys

A big WELCOME from me. Roly

Welcome to the village, enjoy. There are several outstanding pattern makers on here that are always happy to help. xx

Good to have another Texan join us. Look forward to getting to know you.

Hi Greg and welcome to the Village from East Tennessee. Glad to have you join us. We have several members who are from Texas - but given how big that State is, they may or may not be anywhere close to you. With 6 grandchildren, you will have lots of people you can scroll for. Look forward to your participation.

Welcome to the Village, Greg !.....Make yourself at home and join in the fun !

Second project....adding some definition to the sun and the moon. This is just too much fun.

Doing some scrolling yesterday on 4mm BB using my ex 21. Got into more intricate sections so I changed to a smaller pre-used blade. Suddenly the blade was slipping from the top clamp far too often to be funny. Although I say pre-used, it is not bent or dull and when working it is perfectly fine. Step 1 was to sand the top shank of the blade. No improvement. Step 2 was to rotate the set screw [on the rear of the blade clamp] just in case grooves had been worn. The set screw was unmarked with damage but the blade slipped out just as much as before. Step 3 today [same piece] was to actually tighten the set screw, after tightening the thumb screw, and then flip the tension lever. Suddenly I'm in the sweet shop and flying along. [that is the candy store to most of you]. I'm very aware of the dangers of stripping the threads on the head so I'm being very gentle on the set screw, using a hex key with a T handle for leverage, but its the barest turn of the set screw up against the thumb screw that does the trick for me. When I've finished this piece and go back to using a slightly bigger blade I'll see if the slippage continues. So on the whole I will use this method again if required. Bob

I'm looking for a scroll saw that I can place a nickle(US) on edge on the table and it not fall over even at full speed. I think the Excalibre or King industries 16" might be a possibility also. I don't know the Jet might be good also. There is so much confusion about these saws right now. Distributor is not the same as manufacturer. I think that all these saws are made in China or Taiwan. Not to diss these countries, they an make good equipment if that is what the distributor wants. The experience I've had with scroll saws is that when turned on, they would walk across the tab....Even when bolted down!