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Made this one from a pattern by Gayle from ' The Scrollers Cafe..

At my last craft fair, someone asked if I could make a box with a duck hunting theme. I don't generally do custom work but came up with a design that the lady liked so here it is: Thanks for looking. Rob

I finally got this finished up. I've been having some back issues so I've only been able to get a few cuts in at a time. It still needs to be framed and finished but I am definitely glad to get something cut again. 1/8 cherry, FD UR #1 blade

I haven't been making much with the scroll saw except for these rustic bunnies.... 7 more completed

Just ordered a dog puzzle from Iggy's web page an have to say it couldn't be easier or faster. Got the download without leaving the page an took maybe a total of 1 min to do the whole thing. Wish all sites was as good! Just had to give our buddy a pat on the back.

Did this today. I will be making more of these out of Walnut and Red Oak. This one is Red Cedar.

Oh my, Ray is going to be the new Walmart Greeter!!! I have bought a lot of supplies from there. Mostly I get poster board there. Why coffee stir sticks... I eat pop-cycles when I want sticks...

I would do what Rabid Alien suggested except I would use a piece of maple, easier to drill.

Thanks! Got my blade order from Bear today. Now if it will warm up enough to go outside.

I sure do not know the answer to this one, but I wonder if one could grind the pins off with a bench grinder. Not sure at all, but perhaps you could give it a try and see what happens. Dick] heppnerguy

Hello, I'm Brennan. I just bought my first scroll saw, a used Delta 40-540. My first project is just a bunch of squiggly and straight lines to get used to the saw and then I'm getting right into cutting 20in tall letters to build a sign for my business. When I figure out the saw, I have a ton of other projects in mind already. Should be a cool new hobby. I'm going to go lurk the archives and absorb y'alls knowledge. Thanks!

I had to try it in a solid wood. My brother gave me it a couple years ago, I think it's spalted cherry. I finished it with 321. When I showed it to dad he traded me for the one I did first and put it on his living room wall. My sister already talked me into giving her the first one. I'm sure I'll cut it again. I used cedar for the M again, not sure it is the one to use here. Walnut work better??

Well, it’s been a while since I’ve done much cutting due to getting a sinus infection and it’s bothersome wearing my dust mask. I have several new clocks cut but waiting on making the backers. Was going to wait and post all of them but since I’ve not been able to work in the shop and I was able to glue these and finish them up I thought I’d show them. Stack cut three of these and put a walnut backer on two and one with a cherry backer. Ill post a couple of the half finished clocks as well since I don’t know when I’ll get back in the shop as when I do get better I have some other things to do and it could be a while before I finish them up. EDIT: Not sure why the pictures came up in the wrong order.. Probably my phones fault, LOL.. well.. the phone operator

Very nice of you to say. It took a lot of work to get all of Harvey's patterns uploaded and organized on the site for automatic downloads, but it has been soooo worthwhile. I'm glad it works smoothly.

I get my poster board, acrylic paints, frames, shelf liner and misc. items. Seems there is a WM on every other corner.

By all means. I have way more 2x4 scraps laying around than maple.

I used a scrap of 2x4.

Better take some thing along to make sure those dowels are the size they say they are. I have a couple of plastic pieces with different sizes of holes drilled through them. I take one of them along when I'm buying dowels from HD, Lowes, or Walmart. I found that most of their dowels are standard metric sizes - sort of close to imperial sizes. That's also why I have a complete set of metric brad points- drill bits as well as imperial.

I'm not familiar with a Quail Ridge around here. That doesn't mean there isn't one, I just don't know about it. There is a 55+ "Quail Creek" south of Tucson.

Tissue boxes are a great project. I had my middle school students make them for a project. I had as many as 145 a year cranked out. I am glad they brought back the shop classes at the school. My 5th grade grandson loves the class. I guess it's time to give him some shop time at grandpas' shop.

My youngest grandson is a big Harry Potter fan. I would be interested in the pattern. I'll private mail you an email address and thank you very much.

terrific job

That turned out great !......Very nice !

Very nice, clean and elegant

Woohoo! Found the article....I'd initially run across it on Pinterest, and remembered I'd Pinned it. Here ya go: https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/skills/scroll-saw-tips?catref=wd146&page=2

Good ole Dobby. I like it!

Very nice! M R DUCKS. M R NOT DUCKS. O S M R. Y I B! M R DUCKS!

Haven't had a new machine since my purchase in 1975. My wife has the checkbook and its very tough to convince her. Until this scroll saw dies, I only get to look. RJF

Very nice work.

One of my backgrounds is electronic engineering which I dealt with very small electronic components. After being in that field for years my college study of physics, mechanics, fluid dynamics is not as keen, though I try to keep a basic grasp. My field was automation so I would pull the books on the specifics. I'm writing on the fly so I could be off. When you mentioned a "stand" I assumed, "ups", that it was a solid triangle base stand used in shop machines. I'm disabled now and the brain still spins, so I approach problems and look for solutions. Your scroll saw may very well be constructed well and need little. I've got a Craftsman contractors model that is heavy, but their design has an arm that rattles away. Horrible noise, but little vibration on the table. Had just posted a note in the introduction on handling scroll saw noise in an apartment and might have had some sound theories still rattling in my brain. I quoted yours to give an example of weight, hopefully not to offend but to continue an example. Designing our vibration and sound is a constant problem while the cost people cheapen the materials. My apologies if my post somehow came across as accusing. RJF

Yea I can see why.Super job!!

Not at all hard to see why she liked it.

Love these,excellent job,,,,great that you got some orders too.

Hi Rob,you did aces on this one..very nice theme you came up with.love the wood choice also.

Nice work,like the frame idea

Great idea! Nice work. Good luck with the show!

Drill a small hole in a piece of scrap metal (1/16", I think, is what I used. Maybe 3/32"), put one side of the pin in the hole, tap with hammer until flush. Then poke through with icepick or punch or use needlenose to pull on through. Attaching the metal to a scrap of wood with a larger diameter hole through it helps. Basically, the pins are just pressed into holes in the blades, held there by pressure. They're not soldered or welded in place.

That is some nice Dan..Fantastic cutting.yes to walnut M.

Your pattern? Very nice cutting

Thanks. I'll give it a try I had thought of that. My concern would be heat. If it gets too hot during the grinding process it may ruin the temper of the blade making it weak and break. I'll let ya know how it goes. Thanks again!

If you grab the pin with a pliers and wiggle it a bit, it usually pops out.

Something that beginners, and even some who have done it for a while, don't quite get is that the feed rate is probably more important than the speed of the blade. Something that comes with practice, I guess...

I've never had a problem with paraffin wax on my saw blades affecting the finishing of my work, so little stays on the blade anyway, but it fills the pores of the blade metal and makes a smoother blade surface reducing the friction and letting the blade run cooler. A cooler blade lasts longer, It also reduces the problem of the saw dust sticking in the gullets of the teeth, so the blade remains cleaner. For best results, I reapply a little after about about every five minutes of cutting and always before beginning cutting with a new blade. To apply, I just cut into the block of wax a very short distance. Then move it a little side to side and then remove the block. I then rub it against the back edge of the blade. I now use paraffin blocks purchased in the canning section of grocery stores. A box of it will likely last you 20 years, if you don't store it in a high heat area. If you do, it will become one very large block of wax and you will need to saw pieces off of it to use it conveniently. It will still be usable though. I usually loose or give pieces away at trade shows and classes long before I use them up, and I still have about 1/2 of the last box that I bought left. Out of the box each piece is about 2 1/2 X 2 1/2 X 3/4, so I cut each one in half as I need more and then work with just the half piece. Old broken candles work well for this too. I also wax the table of my scroll saw using Johnson's Paste Wax before using the scroll saw each day, It makes the work slide easily on the saw table. I do the same with all of my woodworking tool tables, but do it less often, maybe every month or so, or if I realize that my work isn't sliding as easily as it should. Again, it's never been a problem with finishes on my work caused by this waxing, but I always sand my work as a final step before finishing, so if there is any wax on the surface it will be sanded off. I suppose, if I left a thick layer on the saw table, it might cause problems, but I always apply it, let it dry to a haze, and then wipe off the excess. All it's doing is filling the pores of the metal and making the surface more slippery. A second benefit is that it prevents humidity caused rust from forming on the cast iron tables. It won't do much to prevent rust from heavy condensation or a water leak though. I've been doing both of these practices for about the past 65 years without experiencing any wax caused finishing problems. Charley

Again, a true tuned saw shouldn't vibrate much if any different while cutting.. A blade forward / rearward adjustment is what comes to my mind when you mention this.. My Excalibur did the same until I actually tuned the forward / rearward blade motion by moving the motor.. While the saw cut pretty good.. without doing this.. it was considerable smother once I did this.. Mine was far enough off that I had to take the motor bolts right out and move them to the next set of slotted holes..

The only saw I have had that vibrated that bad was my old PC,and only after I had id for a couple of yrs,The others I have had never vibrated hardly at all,my new Delta is a smooth runner.

Just for clarification, the "baby soda bottles" are actually called preforms.

I get what I use FREE at my local drug store. Pill bottles of the 5+ inch tall size. They give them to me just for asking. Each will comfortably hold about 5 gross with still enough room inside to get one finger in to slide a blade out. Those of you wanting smaller diameter bottles, I guess you don't go through as many blades as I do. Charley

I am going to make this one too. I did measure a few boxes of tissue and found that there doesn't really seem to be a standard in the industry as to size. So, I'm going to make mine to fit the largest one I found and the rest will just have to be a sloppy fit. I also asked Steve for a custom pattern for the sides. We live in an area that palm trees are very prolific so my wife wanted palm trees on the sides. Steve is such a great guy, it took him overnight to send me a pattern.