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Here is the Tissue Box that I finished, not the best but it will do.

Nothing exciting but showing it anyway lol. Pattern from Iggy cut out of red oak. Giving away to the church secretary.

Used Western Red Cedar, Walnut, Poplar, Select Pine, Wenge, Red Oak, White Oak... I took a little more time this go 'round and I was a bit more comfortable with doing the intarsia... Hopefully, I'll continue to get better at it because my wife has several project she wants me to do already and she keeps talking about buying more patterns... I've got to slow her down a bit... My finger tips are sore from sanding... This is a Kathy Wise design...

Well a couple more from my shop,Alias Smith & Jones,I had to alter it somewhat,I just could not cut the bottom half of the patternI will try again.The Big Boy,the is the 1st time I cut it in 1/4 wood. Happy it came out without any breaks.

Often, especially when I glue multiple puzzle patterns to a board, I have to cut that board down to manageable sizes A Spiral blade makes that easy! I keep practicing with spirals, but anything resembling a straight line is ... not happening yet. But to separate patterns, I don't need real straight lines.

I just received word that the Pegas saw that I pre-ordered is going to ship in the next week... Oh boy, oh boy, oh boy...

Learning to better control the spiral blade. I've wanted to cut this pattern for some time but with my old saw I knew I'd mess it up. I still need work but I'm getting there.

Did this today. I will be making more of these out of Walnut and Red Oak. This one is Red Cedar.

I had to try it in a solid wood. My brother gave me it a couple years ago, I think it's spalted cherry. I finished it with 321. When I showed it to dad he traded me for the one I did first and put it on his living room wall. My sister already talked me into giving her the first one. I'm sure I'll cut it again. I used cedar for the M again, not sure it is the one to use here. Walnut work better??

Occurred to me with vibration as a topic coming up. I have had a private pilot lic. Kind of outside of the field of scroll sawing. I'm one of those people that have to know how things work and have a trail of childhood devices pulled apart, though I spent the rest of my life putting everything together for my family after the fact. Hung around airplane hangers watching the mechanics work of the plane to understand the insides. One requirement for planes is all bolts and nuts have holes in them. A bolt and nut is tightened to a spec and the holes line up, then "safety wire" is put through the hole and other bolt holes or anchor the stop the bolt and nut from twisting. For cars, scrollsaws that have bolts that just won't stay some safety wire and a hole drill through will keep it there until you cut the wire. There is the safety wire and a plier that has a spin knob to twist the wire. There is different sizes of wire and even some jigs to drill right through the nut and bolt. I doubt everyone is going to run out and safety wire everything on their scroll saw, though when you have had enough of a bolt coming out this is one way that keeps planes up and is dependable. Utube link to give some an idea if you haven't heard of it. RJF https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=safetwire+bolts

If it is that far off, check if the factory assembled it with one or both clamps up-side-down. jerry

Stained it with Early American stain. Interesting how it stained the wood. High and low coloring, I actually like it. Now to seal and Bling out.w

It removes toolless adjustment (unless you permanently adhere a wrench to it), but the first thought I had was replace the knob with a nylon locknut. Scott's rubber band is the simplest fix, which is normally the most elegant.

I turn wig stands and we recommended Titebond III as it is waterproof. Titebond II is only weatherproof. Wig stands get wet when used for drying and I have never had a failure yet. (I have repaired a couple done by others and when I asked what king of glue was used and the answer is usually "I don't remember" my bet is regular wood glue). I know that some of the gorilla glue are waterproof too but it is harder to work with.

I'm not going to worry about spending the money right now. I'm getting used to setting the tension at blade changes without it. BTW... Have I mentioned I LOVE MY "new to me" SAW?? lol

I haven't been making much with the scroll saw except for these rustic bunnies.... 7 more completed

GEEZ! Wish I'd gotten one a lot sooner. Using spiral blades on my old Hitachi it seemed just as I was getting my groove on..... BROKEN BLADE. On the 788 I cut both these horse portraits and only broke one blade. Also thought the old saw was very light on vibration. Much to my amazement the 788 seems vibration free in comparison. I LOVE IT! Now for some final sanding and finish.

Great work Bobby..love the train.

Sorry about still having to wait but if the newer ones are anything like the old RBI ones it will be worth the wait. I finally had to replace a part on mine after 23 years of hard use. The spring that holds the arm up finally wore out. I also took it apart and cleaned everything and put some grease in the bearings.. First real maintence I've done to it in 23 years. They are trouble free in my book.

Sorry you are having to wait. I am happy that there is a mfg of scroll saws in the U.S. Bushton, Kansas has a population of 260. I doubt if there are many machine shops close to them capable of making the part they need. It is not like some areas of the country near big cities with many machine shops. In addition, doing small jobs in a machine shop is expensive and many do not want small jobs. You are not going to just run down the street and find another machine shop.

Yep, think I'll scroll fretwork on the steel. Anyone want o buy a fretwork bridge? RJF

How much?

We have a railroad bridge over here they are tearing down. Anyone want to buy it??

Best of luck Kevin... I feel your pain.

Hummmm, High school graduation picture for your avatar, nice Travis.

I think either Titebond II or III would work. Yes, it will come in contact with water, but it generally isn't recommended that wooden kitchen items be immersed/soaked in water or put in the dishwasher anyway, because it isn't all that good for the wood or whatever finish you are applying. If you will simply be washing the item by hand and rinsing, Titebond II would suffice. Use Titebond III if you have it available, but I wouldn't necessarily go out and buy a bottle just for this project.

If you are handy it should be fairly straightforward. Just be aware that if you work on the tension rod you void your warranty.

Terrific work as always Bobby. Marg

Thank you all for the input. Yes, the saw is new....I will attempt to works on the rod that was mentioned. Appreciate the help

Happens to both of my EX's. I have to adjust the arm every so often. I like the idea of the blue Loctite, but for starters I will try the rubber band idea.

I had the same problem with my dewalt saw and i disassembled the top to get to the tension rod and turned it CCW about 9 turns and the gave me another .25 inch between the top and bottom clamps

Surprise-Surprise I like the Big Boy the best. Seen one in a museum just couldn’t believe how big it is.

Awesome! Make sure to let us know how it works for you.

I have some pinned blades (Olson) that are pretty small.

Nice work. You have been busy. Thanks for sharing.

Party, did somebody say party? Look forward to seeing how you like it.

But, are they any good? Most pinned blades are probably junk. I would think anyway. And too big for most projects.

Those look great. I also like the reflections one.

Got it from Scrolleronline a few years ago.

Well Done Sir!

fantastic work

I did the same thing a couple of months ago. I used synthetic grease. I also switched to Pegas blade clamps. The overall difference was dramatic. It was like I had a much finer piece of equipment.If I had known how much improvement the synthetic grease made I would’ve done it long ago. Dewalt picked a weird thing to cut corners on with the factory grease used.

Jeff you always do some outstanding work and these three are no exception. Well done. Marg

She will love and appreciate it so much, you are a wonderful friend. Great work. Marg

Wow outstanding work, they all look great. Thanks for the look at them. jim

I didn't take any offense to your reply.. I was just merely stating that I've never needed to add weight to any of my saws.. and I would guess that a lot of people wouldn't need to either IF they set up their saw and level it to the spot where the saw will be parked at.. The DeWalt is the only saw I have that has a three legged stand.. others are four legged..

One of my backgrounds is electronic engineering which I dealt with very small electronic components. After being in that field for years my college study of physics, mechanics, fluid dynamics is not as keen, though I try to keep a basic grasp. My field was automation so I would pull the books on the specifics. I'm writing on the fly so I could be off. When you mentioned a "stand" I assumed, "ups", that it was a solid triangle base stand used in shop machines. I'm disabled now and the brain still spins, so I approach problems and look for solutions. Your scroll saw may very well be constructed well and need little. I've got a Craftsman contractors model that is heavy, but their design has an arm that rattles away. Horrible noise, but little vibration on the table. Had just posted a note in the introduction on handling scroll saw noise in an apartment and might have had some sound theories still rattling in my brain. I quoted yours to give an example of weight, hopefully not to offend but to continue an example. Designing our vibration and sound is a constant problem while the cost people cheapen the materials. My apologies if my post somehow came across as accusing. RJF

Just replied on introduction sound transmission. Vibration is transmitted straight through metal easily. The vibration is a factor of "sound strength", the mass of the substance it's going through and isolation. "Build tolerances and balance" are qualities of any machine which lows the strength of the vibration. When a machine has isolation, such as large rubber .groments at the motor, rubber grommets at all moving parts and rubber feet, this would be "isolation" , US submarines have pipes and decking all strapped with isolation bumpers to isolate the sound. The "mass" or what we call weight is a factor. You mention a stand, which you are adding weight. Construction glue a vibrating cell phone to a large heavy table and see if that baby has the same vibration. It's the additional weight, which is why we are so frustrated with the "junk plastic' We get for so many shop tools. Buy a 15,000 dollar lathe and see what the weight of that beast will be. When you cut the wood on this lathe the weight will keep it rock solid in place, no vibration. Mount a vise on a folding table and clamp rebar in it and hammer it over. Now "an auto garage did this", take a 55-gallon drum fill it with concrete and mount the vise to the concrete. Now you can beat the rebar into a pretzel and the drum and vise will be stable. Again large weight and little vibration. Basic example with extreme figures to demonstrate the principle. Rick RJF

I've used the blade lube a few times for thick wood. Not convinced it helps. It did not appear to affect the finish if I remember.

very nice