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This took up my weekend. A Mike Williams Pattern. You can almost hear the bugle of the Bull Elk.

Got all this done last week. Put final touches on the on the weekend. . Glad the weather is getting better. Not much on television. Thank for looking have a great and safe day. Mimi

I enjoy designing and cutting all kinds of table top signs on my scroll saw. Here's one I came up with recently that smacks of nostalgia of the old days: The Village Smithy. You don't see too many of these around today in our modern world. The pattern is available for free on my website. Just scroll down to FREE PATTERNS page to collect it in PDF. I cut mine from a nice piece of curly maple and cut a custom cut wave base from the blank scrap. Might make a nice conversation piece.

A man & wife are looking at my intarsia at the craft show. Wife: "How do you cut the pieces, so they fit so tightly together?" Man: "He does that with a computer." Me: "No, Sir, I cut them with a scroll saw." Man: "That's impossible! No human can cut that precisely!" Me: "Ok" Sigh . . . .

Here are some recent projects that I have been working on. Some others still in the works. First one is an Intarsia piece. It is a JGR pattern. I left the star hanging off the tip off. I used Aspen and blue pine as I recall. Then this one is also one I just added to the scroll saw challenge for boxes so you may see it twice. The directions and the patterns for it came from the staff of Woodworker's Journal - Keepsake Box from Aug. 20, 2014 and was found here: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/keepsake-box-project/ I used poplar because I had plenty of that on hand and THEN read that it is not a good wood for staining. (It's grain pattern tends to absorb unevenly.) I had it because that is what I use when I am cutting out Iggy/Harvey's animal puzzles and I don't "stain" those. I did apply a pre-stain wood conditioner. Then applied American Chestnut wood stain about 3 or 4 cuts. Then added a shellac finish. It turned out ok I think but next time will not use poplar when I want to stain. I am still trying to decide on what I want to put as far as a handle (if at all) and whether I want to flock the inside of the box, and if so, what color. Then, these are cell phone holders that I got the patterns from scroller online here: http://www.scrolleronline.com These still don't have a finish on them but I am going to be a clear coat poly on them. and finally, these are the latest "band saw boxes" that I have created from David Picciuto's book (I previously shared the first two.)

IMG_4332.MOV Among things I have to do, I find time to do some scrolling projects. The Chalet box I worked on through the winter. Highly detailed, I had to back off at times and re-focus doing other things.I adde I'm in the process of restoration of a Model T, also. The clock is a nice addition to my garage workshop.

A few of my latest.The Eagle is a pttern from a Scroller Mag,can't remember what issue.The Enterprise Delta Shield is from a Drawing I did on it's 25th Anni,.I thought I would make a pattern from it in my down time when I was sawless.The 2nd Enterprise is from a Pattern I have had for awhile.can't remember who made it.Fantastic job.The stars glow in the dark.I thought it would add a spacey touch.

I decided to stack cut 4 of each of Alex Fox’s Celtic patterns. I threw most of the scrap cuts in a pile and was kind of blown away by how much there was. Anyway, I cut all of the layers, oiled Layer 1 in Natural Danish, Layer 2 in Dark Walnut Danish, and left Layer 3 raw. I also did Steve Good’s basket that several others have posted pics of theirs. I did mine out of BB and used African Paduck for the top and bottom.

This one's for Peter @woodduck Scrolling through some photos and I came across this. I made it for my Wife's Primary School as an award for the biggest faux pas . It is handed out to a staff member each month. Started many years ago when at a school concert, one of the teachers squeezed between the podium and the wall and exclaimed, "I'm glad I've got my suck me in Knickers on". Well the mike was on and so was born the "Wood Duck" award. Cheers

Congratulations. I've had my RBI 220 for about 15 years now and have never had a problem with it.

If I had a few bob for every time a woman has said to her husband "look at that" or "Isn't that Nice" and the reply is "I can make that", I'd be a rich man. This was common when I used to make my wooden toys.

I have met the nicest of people since I arrived in the Village and today I met another one. I'd seen a gentleman making a bandsaw box on YouTube and thought it was the sweetest thing and I'd like to try and make it. So I found his website and bought a 'download' of 4 patterns. Imagine my disappointment when the box I'd seen him make wasn't on the 'download', I'd bought the wrong one. So I emailed him told him what I'd done and asked if there was anyway I could get the pattern I liked. Well, he emailed me back and explained that the box he had made was in his ''book' not on the 'download' And guess what ??? He emailed me the 8 patterns that are in his book, which includes the one I liked. How amazingly generous was that !!! I'm stunned. There are some lovely scrollsawyers out there in the world and they make the most friendly bunch it's been my priviledge to meet. This gentleman doesn't know me from Adam yet makes such a kind gesture.

New saw broken in with a nice variety of puzzles cut today...

Thx guys I used a polar # 5 (I think) I’ll chk later to make sure. I found it in FD assorted packs I had. It cut perfect super easy. It cut easier than wood. No melting or splinter.I wish I had known I would have made better lines and cut right to them and could been finish. But now I’m just going to trim with spiral pattern bit on the router.

At last month's markets, I had my goodies on my Daughters Stall. She informed me of a customer (Browser) saying to her how much patience I must have to sand all the burn marks of the edges left by the laser cutter. lol I do have patience for some things but nowhere near enough to do that job.

My woodworking club sponsors a birdhouse day everty spring. Today we had 50 kids make birdhouses. Below are pictures of kids, grandparents , moms and Dads have the time of their life.

https://www.westernsporting.com/c/FEC.html One of many suppliers. I put them on my wife to keep her nails from going in my back. NAWW! If my wife sees this I'm dead. RJF

Howdy Mr. Ray. My BM is sittin on its factory legs. Personally, since yers is outta warranty, I don't see why ya couldn't put it on yer own custom built stand. There are a few things I'd take into consideration in your design, though. Remember, Hawk mounts their motor underneath the saw, so allow for air circulation around the motor for adequate cooling. Second, make sure your sawdust has a place to go rather then just pile up under the platform around the motor & other movin' parts. Also, keep in mind that you change blades from the bottom, IF you're a bottom feeder, Ray. So allow plenty of room for that process. Build your stand to the height comfortable for ya, & allow room on the top for your blade holders, maybe a magnifying light, items like this. I don't see why a feller couldn't, Mr. Ray. Best of luck, Sir! Sawdust703 (Brad)

That roll top was sort of a faux roll top. Curious, yes. Not the real thing. ...so, what to do. Create the real thing. Tambour roll top band saw box. ....with a hidden compartment...just because I can. Latest project.....the ever popular cracked box.....w/custom veneer.

Ok, this will be a duplicate post as I am adding this box to my "what I have been up to lately post" with some other things but this is the box I made on my scroll saw last week. The directions and the patterns for it came from the staff of Woodworker's Journal - Keepsake Box from Aug. 20, 2014 and was found here: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/keepsake-box-project/ I used poplar because I had plenty of that on hand and THEN read that it is not a good wood for staining. (It's grain pattern tends to absorb unevenly.) I had it because that is what I use when I am cutting out Iggy/Harvey's animal puzzles and I don't stain those. I did apply a pre-stain wood conditioner. Then applied American Chestnut wood stain about 3 or 4 coats. Then added a shellac finish. It turned out ok I think but next time will not use poplar when I want to stain. I am still trying to decide on what I want to put as far as a handle (if at all) and whether I want to flock the inside of the box, and if so, what color.

I tried telling you Kevin. Maybe it does take some time coming off saws with a different arm function but I learned on a Hegner first and then right to the RBIs and when I got the Dewalt I do not like it. Someday I will sell that saw and being a type#1 should get good money for it. Has a stand I never put together. Not even sure all the pieces are there which is why I got the thing for cheap from Home Depot. It was one of those deals they made me buy it. I have used it on occasion but not a fan. love my RBI saws and will not part with them. They have cut many projects and made me some fine $$$ over the years.

I just made a frame and used 1/8” plexi for the glass. The bandsaw with a 1/2” blade is what worked for me. Didn’t even think to try the scrollsaw.

Sounds like a great person to deal with.. This is how I go about treating customers on my website.. Going the extra mile for someone makes you a return customer and or at least someone talking about how nice of a person to deal with.. Just as you have done here.. now everyone here might possibly see something they like just from you posting the situation... Not ALL sales people are greedy and only see the $$ sign.. some are extra nice and go an extra mile to and see the extra $$ later on down the road.. if not.. then at least make a new friend etc. so to speak..

I've cut plexi on my table saw many times with no problems at all. I use an 80T Diablo blade I make instrument display cabinets and the doors are framed with plexi.in the middle. If I had to do a cutout I would use jigsaw rather than my scroll - I think I can control the cut line easier with a jig myself.

I use to give a primitive Pete award each week for the student that misused the tools or machines. I guess I am glad to be retired now wouldn't be PC to do that now. I would probably be called in and written up with a piece of paper put in my file. Real scary threats(LOL). The file would be too thick for it to fit.

Not all acrylic is the same and plexiglass is just a version and generic name for it. I have no problem cutting acrylics on my tablesaw and use various blades. But they do make a non ferrous and plastic blade. As far as on the scrollsaw I too sandwich between some BB and cut using a standard #5 reverse tooth FD blade as I always use for just about everything. I have also cut without plywood and just use blue painters tape on front and back. An example is the acrylic mirrors cut for these.

I burn cherry almost every time when using the DeWalt.. not sure what it is about that particular saw.. even slowing the speed etc etc.. but I've never burned the wood using the Hawk and Excalibur.. not sure why that is.. Something that I recently started doing a little of is video myself cutting.. then you can review what you're doing.. even watching in slow motion really shows what's going on..

I used to cut quite a bit of acrylic to use for photo frames and money boxes. It was only 3mm though. I can';t remember the blade I used, but I do know it wasn't a reverse tooth as this tended to grab and lift the sheet. I had to slow the saw down a bit to stop it melting back together. Always leave the protective plastic on while cutting, this also helps to stop it re-joining, not to mention preventing scratches. If the protective sheet is missing use clear packaging tape. Oh and use safety glasses, as the dust eg splinters are hard and being clear it's the devils own job trying to get a piece out of you eye, (Enough said about that )

I know how ya feel.I have had customers tell me about my patience in sanding my work,they say it must take hrs to get rid of all those spurs and splinters.

Finish gluing the together today. The pattern is from the Holiday 2006 SSW&C magazine, issue 25. I haven't been able to order the lights for it yet. All the 10 count battery powered white wire LED lights are out of stock at the moment. I am on a list to be notified when they come in. This is my second Lichterbogen and I really enjoy making them for some reason. Hope to make a few more before Christmas.

I brought my Craftsman saw with me on our winter getaway, leaving my DeWalt at home. I like the way it cuts (very non-aggressive) but hate fighting blade changes. Anyone know of a modification I could make to make it easier? Or maybe a technique I could try? I’m leaving the blade attached at the bottom and feeding through the workpiece from bottom to top. (Guess that’s called “bottom feeder”?) Thanks in advance, Tom

I met the fellow who had the Hawk 226VS on Craigslist this morning and long story short, I bought it and brought it home. Now, all I have to do is figure out where to put it. Other than some surface corrosion on a couple of parts, this saw is like new. I can't wait to give it a run but first I must do the clean -up. I am open for any and all advice from you experienced Hawk owners.

Those who participate in the sport of falconering wear a heavy leather glove so the talons of the bird of prey (hawk, falcon) do not dig into their arm.

I think one actually could top feed with the "Ultra" style Hawk like you and I have.. but it wouldn't be all that easy, LOL.. If you go look at the pictures of my new saw. you'll see that the lower arm protrudes through the angle mechanism.. where the ultra and earlier made saws the lower arm sits back behind the angle mechanism.. while the newer saw has a roll pin type upper and lower clamp.. they are different than the ultra ones.. also the plastic tab on the lower arm to hold the blade clamp in place.. those are spring steel on the new saw and hold the clamp up tighter to the lower arm than the plastic ones of he ultra saws.. Unlike the Excalibur.. and DW saws.. the Hawk saw you bottom out the blade into the hole on the clamp.. both top and bottom.. though on the top you have to lower the arm down until the blade hits against the roll pin stop.. You can adjust how far the arm will come down.. so it stops at the right position.. The blade will be installed in the exact same position every time.. In a EX or DW you place the blade in the clamp and you could place it ( depending how the saw is set up ) up to 1/4" higher or lower and still be able to clamp them in and cut.. Put it too low while using a reverse tooth blade you could be skipping the few reverse teeth at the bottom.. The Hawk the blade will only go in so far into that lower holder.. so every blade is going to be in the saw the same way every time.. My DW may have quite a lot of wear.. but I can put a blade in that saw and have a good 1/4 - 3/8 inch above / below where the thumb screw clamps the blade.. actually more like 1/2 probably cause it's quite a lot.. and using that saw I have to be careful how I position the blade as the reverse teeth don't come up high enough. Anyway top feeding would be a pain to try to lower the upper arm while reaching around behind the tilt mechanism and get the blade into the little hole while the holder/clamp is loosely flopping in that slot.. and getting the blade to bottom out in the clamp and then tighten the thumb screw..

I was very hesitant the first time I cut acrylic, but I used the FD polar like you and WOW, I couldn't believe how easy it cuts. It makes you realize how much the grain in wood can throw off your blade.

Looks like same, or similar, plans are available here https://www.etsy.com/shop/ClaytonsPatterns?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=255767417

I still think the Hawk is a great saw. I just could not get comfortable with using it. It took too much time with the blade between cuts, I did not like the tension knob way in the back of the long throat, and the blade change drove me nuts, (OK I was already a little nuts to begin with ). If those things do not bother you, or maybe yours is newer then was mine and do not have those issues, then time will make things perfect for you. I hope so. Definitely one of the better made saws out there. Dick heppnerguy

Boy I heard all these stories about lasers many times. I also heard the I can make that many times too and have offered to send them the patterns if they want to try. But no responses after that. I wish I had a nickle for every time a person touched the fruit baskets I make and tell me how different and nice they are but walk on. That was always a running gag in my booth. I even got the vendor next to me keeping score at one time too. Then I get the people telling the person next to them they collapse and I would have to explain they do not and are cut from individual pieces. You become immune to these things after awhile. People have no idea at what they are looking at most of the time. I do not explain anything unless asked these days. Waste your breathe. There are people and usually guys who will strike up a conversation about woodworking. People look at prices and at times I hear the too high quote especially when looking at my pens. I have to remind them all is hand made. Today with lasers and 3D printers it is testing the boundries of hand made items for sure.

Then you have people that don't know the other side of the coin... My older brother went to a show and he's not up on the woodworking stuff.. he knows scroll saw stuff but that's about the extent of it.. He was telling me some guy had all kinds of nice stuff but the edges was all burnt.. then he laughed and was talking about how the guy must be running his saw way too fast trying to make all of that stuff.. he was like every piece he had was burnt edges.. Then I had to educate him about lasers, LOL A properly set up laser.. these days can cut and only slightly darken the edges.. they are getting these things tuned in so good that they are starting to be hard to tell if it's laser cut or scrolled.. I haven't even fired my laser yet but I've been following a guy that worked with lasers most his career.. retired now and has a cheap laser to toy around with.. his videos are so informational.. Hoping to fire it and my CNC up late spring early summer..Since I haven't even unboxed these two machines yet.. but did unbox and set up my Hawk scroll saw... you can see where my interest really is.. I'm only toying around with these two machines to just learn them.. that is... if I ever open the boxes, LOL

This conversation is had at my booth numerous times. Even when you tell some of the people it is done by a Scroll Saw the roll their eyes and say sure it is.

Okay, @John B please explain, I do not think there is a backer. I have looked and looked, but I may be all wet. I think the white is the wall behind the trophy and the rest of the dark is shadow.. But that is a lot of shadow and well maybe not. Help me here, what am I seeing?? By the way that is an awesome cutting.

Thanks for the award John.I will treasure it.

Brenda - I bought his book and have made a few of them, including that “Chicago” box. I really like that one. I previously posted pictures of the first two I made. They are in this thread: https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/32407-first-boxes-i-have-made/?tab=comments#comment-363644 I have since made 3 more from the book including the Chicago box and have another that is glued up that I need to cut. I really need to post my pictures of the last ones I have done. Been procrastinating on them while I did other things. You will enjoy making them. I look forward to seeing what you create. I will try to get photos of the most recent ones done posted tomorrow. Edited to add links to the most recent patterns I did from David's box including the "Chicago box" - https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/33097-some-recent-projects-i-have-done/

I Love the original first 3 movies,I have them on disc,Like you I didn't care for the others.

Yes we precut and drill pilot holes. All the kids do is assemble them with screws. We take the kids into the shop go over how the wood is processed and machine safety. We found a wholesale supplier who donated the cedar. It cost the kids nothing except a couple of hours of fun. We have around 10-12 club members help demo and assemble. They have as much fun as the kids.

I've tried cutting it but it just wanted to melt back together, even at the slowest speed my saw would run.. guessing a skip tooth blade may have worked better? I think I was using a FD ultra Rev. blade.. anyway.. I found it worked best by sandwiching the acrylic in between some BB ply.. I never did finish my project with it.. so i don't know how it really turned out.. my sons friend was just trying to make a square to replace a window and I tried helping with it.. before I left to town.. so I don't know what they ended up with or if it even worked.. LOL

Not tiring but as much fun for the club members that helped as the kids. The club members look forward to the event each year. We have around 10-12 club members help which is plenty.

Here are five bowls I've made this past winter that I hope customers at craft fairs will like. These designs usually attract good attention from folks at these fairs... Vin

Finally made my first basket. Found the process to be kinda tedious....dunno why, I can sit there and move blades from hole to hole, holes so tiny that it takes longer to move the blade than it does to shave off the millimeter of excess wood, and not blink an eye. But cutting repetitive patterns? Nearly drove me bonkers. ....okay, nearly drove me MORE bonkers. But I made a basket!!! So....if I make a box, and put the basket INSIDE the box...will I have made a basket-case? ::ducks and runs:: Steve Good pattern: