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Brenda aka Foxfold started something with her font. I just made these two and need to make six more.

I did this Steve Good pattern a couple of weeks ago but forgot to post it.This train runs on a regular schedule these days! 1” Red Oak, engine stained with Golden Oak, steam brushed with Ebony.

Got these done finally. Stack cut. Took about 2 1/2 hours to cut, using a Pegas #1 MG . High gloss spray paint for the black.

Applied the finish to the birds plaque, spoon racks are done, cut some bunny napkins holder for Easter and made a nice little box. Real busy time in the shop, still snow and ice on the ground, so no rush to get the golf clubs out.

This is my first try cutting with one hand since my accident. Cannot make clean square coursers. John Old Dust

Just love playing with rainbows - - -

I have a couple of boxes I thought I might enter, for the fun of it. One is an inlay of Elvis that I made for my wife and the other is one that I made for her that she liked when I showed it to her and she wanted me to cut for her. Dick heppnerguy

Oh, I might as well... made the Five Dragon box to put old nuts and bolts in, the Dutch box is where I throw my used and broken scroll saw blades. Then I made two Hamsa boxes to put ear wax in which is what I use make it easier to get screws screwed in.

I bought one of the H/F foot switches a couple of years ago and when I bought the EX saw, it came with one just like it. I have always hated those two switches because of the way the wires run on them. The saw cord plugs in the front of the switch and the power cord comes out the side of the switch. It has always made positioning the switch very difficult. So, today, I finally had had enough of an inanimate object getting the better of me. I took one of them apart to see where everything was positioned inside of the body of the switch and saw that there was room to reroute the wiring and make both power cords come out the front. All I had to do was drill a hole in the plastic body and reroute stuff. Here is a pic of what it was like before I did anything. I failed to take a pic of what it looked like once done but you can figure it out. A very simple fix. I'm glad it's done. Now both switches lay where I want them to.

Finished this yesterday, done on BB. edward

Took a couple full bags of sawdust from my dust collector to my brothers mill to dump in his sawdust pile. He told me he had some more Hard Maple for me to take home so we traded. Not a big fan of hard maple but free is good. Hate scrolling it though so I’ll either be using it in the CNC or making a boat load of cutting boards. I might make more money selling his scrap lumber than trying to make stuff with it to sell .

I am really surprised at all the people who remarked about the font I used on the Airplane plague I made. I first used it about 6 years ago and it was on one of the first scrolled pieces I made. I have always liked that particular font but only use it occasionally. I am glad I used it this time as it looks like it was new to quite a few others. I love to share what little knowledge I have, if it is going to help someone. Like most of the scrollers, I find it is a continued learning experience and that is one of the things I enjoy about scrolling. The Scroll Saw Village is one of the other things I enjoy about scrolling. I remember when I signed up to become a member and how fun and talented and sharing ones knowledge with others was the one thing that made logging on here often, has become an important part of my life. You people, out there, are truly family in my heart. I feel I know so many of you although I have only met a few of you. I am grateful to Travis for all his hard work and compassion he has put into making this such a wonderful place to hook up with a world wide family. Dick heppnerguy

I'm not Kevin, so can I give you a smarta$$ answer? Soft maple and hard maple are different varieties of maple. Soft maple would be red maple or silver maple. Sugar maple is hard maple. The practical difference, as the name implies, soft maple has a Janka scale rating of between 700 and 950, similar to mahogany. Hard maple has a Janka scale rating of 1450, similar to white oak. So hard maple is about 1.5X to 2X harder than soft maple.

Poor Brenda she gets the blame for starting lots of things. They look great Les, well done. Marg

Looks like he needs wheels on that chair. He can roll from one saw to the next and not have to change blades till they all get dull and then start over. Save alot of time. Keep them customers happy.

Okay so yesterday I moved some things around in the shop and parked the new Hawk next to the others... now it’s the Hawks corner lol. I haven’t done any tuning. Of coarse saws come with a blade but they never say what size or style is in it, lol. Anyway release the upper arm and see that classic FD UR divot but also noticed the blade was bent so I remove the blade from the saw and also see the lower part is also bent in the hockey stick look. Couple turns on the set screws to get them in far enough fixed that. Should probably have been set up better than that but not the first new saw I’ve bought that needed this done either. In fact... every single new saw has needed this. Still feel they should have them set up better than that. JMO I cut this out ( Steve Good pattered ) from 3/4” saw run good cuts a little more aggressive than the other Hawks but I also haven’t done any tuning. The set screws I turned in on the clamps was off but I just wanted to cut on it and was limited on time. I broke about 3 blades trying to get through this project but near the end of cutting I finally started doing some adjustments. Since the original blade was bent I think they had the tension set too tight for the reason of why I was breaking the blades. Little more vibration than the other saws now that I’ve moved it but, as I said no tuning whatsoever short of those set screws. So far overall I’m happy with the saw, not too happy with the setup and wantnot that the company offers. It’s still limited use and everything but I feel the saw was well worth the purchase. But my experience with the company and the set up they do to these saws before shipping them out. I don’t think this saw is for a person that doesn’t expect to have to tune the saw. Something else troubling in my eyes is.. shortly after my first few cuts the tension lever started squeaking when applying tension. Not surprised that they never lubed the saw prior to shipping it either. I sprayed dry lube as suggested to all the areas suggested in the manual and the saw seemed to run smoother and the lever stopped squeaking too. I think once I get things tuned and everything set up I’ll really like the saw. Not to fond of the way Bushton runs the company is probably the biggest fault in the saw itself, Something I noticed right away that is different from the older Hawks that I don’t like about the newer one. The blade is out beyond the saws body so the dust lands in your lap and on the floor. The older saws the blade is back behind the tilt mechanism and a pile builds up back there instead of your lap / floor. Lol

My wife wanted some cut with cheap wood so she could painted them, I think we might have an artist in the making.

IMG_4332.MOV Among things I have to do, I find time to do some scrolling projects. The Chalet box I worked on through the winter. Highly detailed, I had to back off at times and re-focus doing other things.I adde I'm in the process of restoration of a Model T, also. The clock is a nice addition to my garage workshop.

I installed my Pegas chuck yesterday. Some impressions and observations - first the good: 1. Nice piece of engineering and manufacturing. Everything about it screams quality. 2. The tensioning lever employs a superior means of tensioning. No need for constant grease to slow down the wear of the Teflon eccentric cam lever. A drop of oil will suffice for a year. 3. It definitely reduces vibration. 4. The slot that fits over the articulating arms was milled to the same width as the Excalibur chuck. Annodization adds thickness of roughly 5 mils. This means the Pegus chuck slot is 10 mils (5mils on each side) thinner than the Excalibur original. Measured with a caliper the Pegus reduces potential side to side run-out by roughly .01" (Think 2 pieces of paper in thickness.) Admittedly this is not a big deal but it increases precision a bit with no risk of additional wear. Then the bad: 1. No instructions. They leave you to discover for yourself the bearing sleeves that hold the old (and new) chuck in place and how to remove them - just for starters. 2. (Important) The Pegus Chuck blade positions are not factory adjusted for trueness between the two chucks. The location where the set screw and the thumb nut meet within the blade slots are haphazard. In the case of the chuck I received, the top chuck's set screw and blade thumb nut met at the right side of the blade slot. So much so that you couldn't insert a #7 blade into the chuck because the blade was too thick. I had to back the set screw off so it sat slightly proud on the left side of the blade slot. The bottom chuck set screw was adjusted to meet the thumb screw in the center of the chuck's blade slot. Unadjusted, this mismatch between top and bottom chuck caused the blade to be out of true with the stroke of the saw's articulating arms. Additionally, it wasn't as simple as adjusting the chucks to the same position. To true the blade to the plane of the articulating arms, the upper chuck needed to be closer to the left edge of the slot. The bottom chuck was adjusted to the middle of the slot. This is due to the saw, not the chuck - but it is a critical adjustment for fine tuning the installation for optimum performance. Bottom line: I like everything about this chuck but it is ridiculous to send it out without installation and set-up instructions.

In addition to being much denser, hard maple is generally considerably more expensive than soft maple. Often the coveted figure that maple is known for (bird's eye, curly, waterfall, etc) comes from hard maple trees. Not sure there is much benefit in using hard maple for your baskets, when factoring in higher material costs. Even if you got a piece of figured maple, I wouldn't necessarily want to use it for a project where you were cutting away most of the grain profile anyway. As far as color, I don't think you would notice much difference between soft and hard maple. Ash provides a nice contrast to walnut. I've used African mahogany with walnut as well. The colors aren't as starkly different, but they compliment each other well, IMHO.

This is not to say that I also have a sometimes warped sense of humor and a romantic perspective on life. Every day is a new life to live: feel the sun; smell the rain; pick the flowers. Enjoy life and find something beautiful to make every day special.

Ok, first of all, the font was originally seen on Dicks @heppnerguy airplane piece https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/32956-oh-i-did-finish-my-b-25/?tab=comments#comment-368495 He then very kindly let me know where to get the font. I made a word plaque and https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/32989-new-font/ Then other people wanted to know where I got the 'font' from. And so the world turns in this wonderful community of ours !!!! Love your signs , how come you have to make so many ?

My shop looks that neat and organized about once every 2 years when I get the "I got to clean this up" disease. And week later you can;'t tell I did anything LOL Nice place, curious though, the Hawk seems (from the pics) to have the two front legs on that rubber mat, are the back legs on the mat too? If not how is that working out with two legs on the mat?

Good luck with your new toy. Keep us posted once you get it dialed in please. It will be interesting to see how this saw fairs against the others.

Did not realize the photo was going to be so big.

Ray this is the drafting stool I use. Bought it on Amazon.I deliberately did not want a back rest as I lean into my work. My vision won't permit me to lean back and scroll. The seat is extremely comfortable. It is 16" wide. Perfect for a big butt. It is adjustable so I can use it on both my lathe and saw. I have three. One in the scroll shop and two in my clock shop. They are like what you would find in a Dr's examining room.

That's really not fair. Everybody should have to show their mug. No matter how bad it is. Just look at Scrappile for gosh sakes.

Ray you have a nice little spot to work in.. looks well organised.. Organization is something I lack when it comes to where to put what for the best space and work friendly area.. My wife.. bless her heart.. is great at it and went out one day to help me organize the shop.. she had the table saw crammed up against the wall.. would maybe be fine if I was cutting supper short boards, LOL.. One thing that does drive me nuts though is when she rearranges every thing.. takes me 2 months to re locate where my stuff went, LOL

Carter Johnson used the color line method and the scrollsaws woodworking forum has a tutorial by him. Stave puzzles, platinum puzzles are both very creative piece users. I am not a pro but have used at least a couple sheets of 1/4 inch bb for fire wood learning and making mistakes. Using a pattern attached to 1/8 inch bb is not that much. I buy 1/8 for about $15 a sheet of 5x5 .

Ok, this will be a duplicate post as I am adding this box to my "what I have been up to lately post" with some other things but this is the box I made on my scroll saw last week. The directions and the patterns for it came from the staff of Woodworker's Journal - Keepsake Box from Aug. 20, 2014 and was found here: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/keepsake-box-project/ I used poplar because I had plenty of that on hand and THEN read that it is not a good wood for staining. (It's grain pattern tends to absorb unevenly.) I had it because that is what I use when I am cutting out Iggy/Harvey's animal puzzles and I don't stain those. I did apply a pre-stain wood conditioner. Then applied American Chestnut wood stain about 3 or 4 coats. Then added a shellac finish. It turned out ok I think but next time will not use poplar when I want to stain. I am still trying to decide on what I want to put as far as a handle (if at all) and whether I want to flock the inside of the box, and if so, what color.

Hello all, Since Hurricane Michael decimated my area as well as my house and shop, I've had zero time to do anything other than play general contractor. I've finally got: The wall of my garage rebuilt My garage door re-installed My finishing bench cleared of debris My pegboard re-installed for the finishing bench My tools hung back up in their proper place My storage building emptied and ready to be re-positioned on its foundation My dust collection system re-installed My saw tops (scroll saw and table saw) de-rusted and waxed And FINALLY my finishing table setup and ready for finishing! I was hoping to start cutting again this week, I manage to put a finish on one of my puzzles however and that my friends is a step in the right direction to getting back to the business of learning to scroll... Again LOL It's amazing how much you forget after a period of time. The old adage "if you don't use it, you lose it" is very true. Anyway, thanks for reading and hopefully, I'll be able to contribute more as life gets back to normal - still a long way to go however My house has no flooring, I have no drywall on one of my exterior walls, all my windows need replacing as well as my front door, I have 3 rental units that still have no renters due to the damage - but aside from that.... LMAO all is well!

Here are some recent projects that I have been working on. Some others still in the works. First one is an Intarsia piece. It is a JGR pattern. I left the star hanging off the tip off. I used Aspen and blue pine as I recall. Then this one is also one I just added to the scroll saw challenge for boxes so you may see it twice. The directions and the patterns for it came from the staff of Woodworker's Journal - Keepsake Box from Aug. 20, 2014 and was found here: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/keepsake-box-project/ I used poplar because I had plenty of that on hand and THEN read that it is not a good wood for staining. (It's grain pattern tends to absorb unevenly.) I had it because that is what I use when I am cutting out Iggy/Harvey's animal puzzles and I don't "stain" those. I did apply a pre-stain wood conditioner. Then applied American Chestnut wood stain about 3 or 4 cuts. Then added a shellac finish. It turned out ok I think but next time will not use poplar when I want to stain. I am still trying to decide on what I want to put as far as a handle (if at all) and whether I want to flock the inside of the box, and if so, what color. Then, these are cell phone holders that I got the patterns from scroller online here: http://www.scrolleronline.com These still don't have a finish on them but I am going to be a clear coat poly on them. and finally, these are the latest "band saw boxes" that I have created from David Picciuto's book (I previously shared the first two.)

Very nice - thanks for sharing

Not had too much problems with thicker pieces of Oak.. and I make a few projects from it.. not a big fan of cutting it.. the smell to me stinks.. ( not that I try to sniff up the dust and always wear a mask ) but I do like the look it gives.. Never had any luck with 1/8 - 3/8 thick though .. in some cases even 1/2 inch.. My go to wood is Cherry.. If it warps in the thin stuff I typically cut it up small enough to make ornaments out of it to salvage the wood if I can... Never said it's crap wood really.. just not my top choice to cut.. Cuts nice too.. just smells and warps easily.. unless you get to pick and choose the boards.. A lot goes into lumber warpage.. including how it's stacked, dried etc..

Here is my collection of bowls, I like to make bowl patterns and have many ideas for my next patterns All patterns available here

Me too Karl. I bought because of price and I bought the "deadman" style that requires me to keep my foot on the switch to make the saw run. I just found that the crappy wire they are using now and the fact that it came out of the side instead of the same plane as the other wire, made the switch want to find a home of its own. Now, it will stay where I put it.

Looking at your G4 and zoomed in.. that saw design is looking exactly like my new BM-26.. I think the changes they did are with the adjustable lower blade holder and the motor has a redesigned bearing plate deal for smoother running.. Often wondered how my new saw compared to the G4.. almost the same thing really.. Okay.. back on topic.. I like the idea of the rolling 5 legged stool.. I may have to look into one of those.. My stool is tipsy if you try pushing it back to get off the chair.. I'm used to it now and am careful..

Yes, My thought too when i got my set... I didn't think about posting this info for those that are not mechanically inclined to set up the chucks properly.. Guess I just thought it was common sense..

A picture would help. Not all plywood is mdf core. Using a wood core plywood may help some but the inside cuts surfaces will never look exactly the same as the surface.

I like the frog! He is cute. Ray, that is my mug in my profile pic.

I like it! Great Job!

Mines always leaving the station and it forgets to come back. I love that, great work Joe. Marg

This is the stool I have and I placed a board on the lower rungs that I sit the foot switch on. Easy to adjust to any height and have a back rest when I need to take a break. Takes up no more room than any other chair. Ray good luck with whatever saw you finally end up with. There is a saw out there for you. . https://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/i/spin/10132816/prod_1662822412?hei=546&wid=546&op_sharpen=1

Kevin, it looks organized but it's not. I'm a packrat. My wife says so and she is right. I can't leave anything just laying somewhere if I can fix it or use or whatever. I don't know why but I end up with more crap than anybody should. So, with that said, in order to use what room I have, I have to keep moving stuff around. I can't figure out what constitutes a scrap of wood that is too small to save. I have boxes now of stuff that should go into a fireplace. Unfortunately, we don't have one. If someone can tell me what to do with these wood chips/scraps/cutoffs what have you, I'd be most thankful. I have a flat screen tv out there that came out of our motorhome. I don't need it. I'd have to buy/rent a cable box to use it. I have a computer out there just because I love computers and might want to jump on the internet. I just can't toss stuff. If nobody wants to buy my Dewalt, it may find that it is going to be my "outside" saw. Except that I owe my wife the money I pilfered to buy the Hawk. What to do, what to do?

Well, to bring you all up to date, I went out today and cleaned my shop and got the shop stool to where it needed to be. I can see now that the height of the saw will not be a problem once I get everything situated where it's all comfortable. I also did a bit of inventory on what wood I have and in what thicknesses. I wish I had a lot of room to be able to organize it all. I'm thinking that I might just cut everything down to either 12" or 24" pieces so they are all uniform and will stack a bit neater. I'm going to post some pics of my shop and also something else I fixed today that has been bugging me and maybe a lot of you all too. If so, it's an easy fix. Stay tuned.

I enjoy designing and cutting all kinds of table top signs on my scroll saw. Here's one I came up with recently that smacks of nostalgia of the old days: The Village Smithy. You don't see too many of these around today in our modern world. The pattern is available for free on my website. Just scroll down to FREE PATTERNS page to collect it in PDF. I cut mine from a nice piece of curly maple and cut a custom cut wave base from the blank scrap. Might make a nice conversation piece.

I've seen a lot of topics on this.. and researched it quite a lot since I had interest in doing some.. Anyway.. one thing about making puzzles that had stuck with me was.. back then there wasn't a lot of templates.. and the recommendation was to draw on the back of the project sort of a grid of the size puzzle pieces you want to make.. most jigsaw puzzles have slightly different sized pieces.. so just draw the grid on the back and free hand the pieces.. as best you can.. Many said they started out doing this way but after making several puzzles they could do very well without the grid.. Many cut the pieces along color lines and different color shades to make the puzzle harder to see on the photo and harder to put together too.. As others have said.. Steve Good has a few templates too.. I done one puzzle where I used a pattern glued to another plywood board and pit the actual puzzle as the bottom piece and then put a soft paper towel and then the piece with the pattern on top and taped everything together.. Turned out fairly well but did have some light smudging where the two vibrated together.. I always glued the photo to the wood and once dry I'd spray the photo with triple thick clear glaze spray... another light coat covered the smudge marks.. the marks was just scratched clear top coat.. I think it'd have ruined the picture without the clear on it..

I can do the basics on my phone. But for ease of usage, I prefer my computer. And, I spend waaaaay too much time there.

Go to the top right corner of this screen. Where your picture would be if you had one. Click the down arrow and select "profile". There, in the top left corner is a place for you to add a profile picture. Just direct to where you have the pic stored and click it.

Thanks everyone for the nice comments. @kmmcrafts Kevin. Those cell phone holders as I am sure you can tell, do not take much time at all to actually cut and put together. You could probably get them done sometime when you have just a little free time and before your ADD/ADHD kicked in. @wombatie - Marge, glad I could motivate you with those cell phone holders. I am trying to decide if I want to get the animal patterned ones too. Not sure what I am going to do with them, since I don't sell. I did take the one kicking out for my own use. May set them out at Easter and tell family take what they want. But then my feelings might be hurt if they take nothing!