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Just when I'm in the middle of and totally engrossed in making my first ever 'box', on Tuesday I get asked to do this. And then they said ' can I have it by Thursday' !!! Well here it is all done and ready. Now I can open the 'flocking kit' that arrived this morning

These are characters from the TV show Futurama and Star Trek (as seen on futurama). The finished piece measures 15”x19” and consists of multiple layers that establish depth. The characters are all natural wood, no paints or stains used for them; I used ebony, wenge, yellow-heart, saeple, maple, oak and bloodwood. The frame is made of cherry, circuit boards and epoxy, the “tanning” room (based off my own illustration whoop-whoop) is made of airbrushed oak, stained glass, padauk, maple and walnut. This took a little over 100 hours to complete. Build Album: https://imgur.com/a/BdqCG6k Reddit Long Video.mp4

Put together a sign pattern that I think captures the importance of all veterans and their contributions to our nation. I cut mine from Ambrosia Maple and salvaged the top layer of the base from the same blank, cutting an improvised layer. Also salvaged the two inner stars I cut out to use and end pieces, and the whole piece was then mounted on a piece of Sapele I had lying around. Remember to check out all the scrap from a project. Sometimes you can use it to dress up the final work. You can download the free pattern from my web page at Real Wood Crafts. Just jog down to the FREE PATTERN page and download the PDF.

Just finished this one. Did the pattern up a while back, but I wanted to cut it before I posted it. Pattern is now in the Library. I'll probably end up on the couch for this one.

Finished this yesterday, done on BB. edward

My wife wanted some cut with cheap wood so she could painted them, I think we might have an artist in the making.

two friends lost their fathers on the same day this month. So I made them each this Keith Fenton plaque. Mystery Wood. - It is very very light. Like Basswood. But Basswood it is not.

Well, I needed a tablet stand and I really didn't like any of the plastic, unnatural looking ones out there, and wanting something more personal I went to my shop to consider the matter. So as I sat in my shop trying to figure out how I could make one out of wood. After a few hours this is what I came up with. The golfer is walnut inlaid into a basswood blank.

I did some practice cutting text again.. fun project from Sheila Landry's website.. I cut this from 1/8" BB ply stacked three.. then the backers are 1/4" Walnut ply with solid walnut strips in the back to hold all together.. I have a few other patterns of these type plaques they have on their site.. probably take a short break on cutting text though.. and I have to cut the 36 Ford pickup that Jim made a pattern for me anyway.. This measures about 18" tall x about 15 wide if I remember correct.. Cut this on the Hawk 226 Ultra.. ( Pegas MG #3) was cut before getting my new Hawk.. actually cut for a while.. just gluing the backer and assembling took almost as long as the cutting..LOL

I think the question has been asked here on the forum a couple times and if I remember correctly, the vast majority prefer the "deadman" type (momentary). I know I do, if I drop over dead, I don't want my saw to sit there running for the two weeks or more before my wife notices I am gone and come looking for me!

This took up my weekend. A Mike Williams Pattern. You can almost hear the bugle of the Bull Elk.

Received my Pegas saw & stand a week ago Friday. Runs smoothly & quietly. Love the blade clamps & the fact that the blade tension is retained. The plastic membrane for dust collection, located underneath the table, came off on its own after about 6 hours of saw-use. I wasn't using the dust collection anyway and I'm sure it can be placed back on with some heavier duty glue / silicone. I feed from the top, so I'm kind of glad it's gone anyway because it is next to impossible to top-feed with it in place. Could definitely use a light...but couldn't all scroll saws? I don't notice the delay mentioned by Iggy from the time I step on the foot switch. Purchased it from bearwood.com. It's worth mentioning that their customer service is top-notch. Very friendly and helpful. They shipped the saw with a replacement tension lever which concerns me a little...do they wear out quickly??? They also shipped a pack of Pegas blades to try out which is great because I've never tried them. I found the stand a little frustrating to assemble, but you eventually figure it out. :) So far I'm VERY pleased with it.

Paul, maybe you should do a little more cleaning of the dog and his house if you need to spend so much time there with the dog.

My favorite spirals are the FD NS 3/0 and the Pegas 2/0. That are about the only two I ever use. I find, although slower cutting as you say, I can cut more detail with the FDNS 3/0 and it does not break easily. You would be surprised how bent up I can get one yet once under tension, it keep on going. The Pegas is much more aggressive, but cut nicely. I find it more brittle than the FD, the slightest bend in it and I know it will break soon.

Got these done finally. Stack cut. Took about 2 1/2 hours to cut, using a Pegas #1 MG . High gloss spray paint for the black.

Applied the finish to the birds plaque, spoon racks are done, cut some bunny napkins holder for Easter and made a nice little box. Real busy time in the shop, still snow and ice on the ground, so no rush to get the golf clubs out.

Here it is the right way... I hope.. LOL

When installing a new blade I put it in the top clamp (but not fully tight), then tighten the bottom clamp. Then loosen the top clamp to thread through the hole in the work piece. When the blade is held up by the top clamp, I don't need the third hand to hold it.

I used a piece of MDF core oak plywood that a friend had given me for a fretwork 'Forest Wren Box' pattern I had purchased from a catalog, I stained it with a dark walnut stain and it turned out beautifully. As a result, I went out a bought a full sheet of the stuff. Any time I'm doing a piece that I intend to stain with a dark color, it has become my first choice for material. Sometimes using a lighter stain gives an attractive contrast to the edges. In case you can't tell, I like the stuff. Dennnis

The couch is heaven,,, it is the dirty old filthy, flea infested dog house I have to spend a lot of time in that I hate!!!

Last year I bough a few packs of the Pegas spiral blades in various sizes.. Tried them doing some portrait work on the Hawk.. but I was on a mission and I kept breaking them so I went back to the FD-NS .. today I started cutting the dog portrait from my pattern request section that I asked for. Using the Excalibur to do the cutting since I have never cut a portrait or used spiral blades on it.. The FD blades was quite slow going.. stack cutting 2 at 1/8" BB ply.. and using the FD-NS # 0/2 so I bumped up to the FD #1 which was too aggressive going.. I remembered the Pegas and thought I'd give them a go on the Excalibur for this project.. Gotta say those blades are awesome.. I'm almost done with the cutting and have only used the one Pegas blade and two of the FD blades.. The Pegas is still cutting better than the FD blade when the FD blade was brand new.. I must say though.. They are faster cutters and I've slowed my saw speed down considerably for better control.. I think the FD-NS is easier to control especially if you're new to spirals.. those would be the choice.. The FD -NS blades was always slower than the other spirals from FD.. and I no longer have any of the others as I always like the easier control to the NS... With spiral blades... having an aggressive cutting set up on your saw.. the FD-NS blades are a must in my opinion if you're new to spirals.. Those blades work awesome on the DW saw.. but they are quite slow going on the Hawk and the EX since I tuned the EX to be not as aggressive.. set up to cut much like the Hawk.. In fact They way it's set now.. I think the Hawk is more aggressive.. Impressed with how much you can tune that EX.. Should be finishing up my portrait tomorrow.. hopefully some pictures in a couple more days once cut and the poly dries...

Yeah the Pegas and also the Olsen blades are more brittle if one gets bent at all.. I've never used any blades smaller than a 0/2 that I remember of.. Does seem like I had some years ago that was 0/3.. but that would have been when I was just learning to saw.. around 2005-6.. Those blades are easy to get bent too.. since they have teeth on all sides they get hung up sometimes trying to feed them through the pilot holes..

I bought one of the H/F foot switches a couple of years ago and when I bought the EX saw, it came with one just like it. I have always hated those two switches because of the way the wires run on them. The saw cord plugs in the front of the switch and the power cord comes out the side of the switch. It has always made positioning the switch very difficult. So, today, I finally had had enough of an inanimate object getting the better of me. I took one of them apart to see where everything was positioned inside of the body of the switch and saw that there was room to reroute the wiring and make both power cords come out the front. All I had to do was drill a hole in the plastic body and reroute stuff. Here is a pic of what it was like before I did anything. I failed to take a pic of what it looked like once done but you can figure it out. A very simple fix. I'm glad it's done. Now both switches lay where I want them to.

Here are some recent projects that I have been working on. Some others still in the works. First one is an Intarsia piece. It is a JGR pattern. I left the star hanging off the tip off. I used Aspen and blue pine as I recall. Then this one is also one I just added to the scroll saw challenge for boxes so you may see it twice. The directions and the patterns for it came from the staff of Woodworker's Journal - Keepsake Box from Aug. 20, 2014 and was found here: http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/keepsake-box-project/ I used poplar because I had plenty of that on hand and THEN read that it is not a good wood for staining. (It's grain pattern tends to absorb unevenly.) I had it because that is what I use when I am cutting out Iggy/Harvey's animal puzzles and I don't "stain" those. I did apply a pre-stain wood conditioner. Then applied American Chestnut wood stain about 3 or 4 cuts. Then added a shellac finish. It turned out ok I think but next time will not use poplar when I want to stain. I am still trying to decide on what I want to put as far as a handle (if at all) and whether I want to flock the inside of the box, and if so, what color. Then, these are cell phone holders that I got the patterns from scroller online here: http://www.scrolleronline.com These still don't have a finish on them but I am going to be a clear coat poly on them. and finally, these are the latest "band saw boxes" that I have created from David Picciuto's book (I previously shared the first two.)

Finish gluing the together today. The pattern is from the Holiday 2006 SSW&C magazine, issue 25. I haven't been able to order the lights for it yet. All the 10 count battery powered white wire LED lights are out of stock at the moment. I am on a list to be notified when they come in. This is my second Lichterbogen and I really enjoy making them for some reason. Hope to make a few more before Christmas.

IMG_4332.MOV Among things I have to do, I find time to do some scrolling projects. The Chalet box I worked on through the winter. Highly detailed, I had to back off at times and re-focus doing other things.I adde I'm in the process of restoration of a Model T, also. The clock is a nice addition to my garage workshop.

This is my first try cutting with one hand since my accident. Cannot make clean square coursers. John Old Dust

Got all this done last week. Put final touches on the on the weekend. . Glad the weather is getting better. Not much on television. Thank for looking have a great and safe day. Mimi

Thinking about getting one. I found three on-line vendors selling the Pegas. QTE, D&D, and Bearwood. Without shipping, all three are within about $60 of each other (including the $50 gift card from BW). Any likes or dislikes about customer service from these three?

Got one with my EX-21 also. Which reminds me, I wonder where I put that thing?

Uuuuhh, Kevin. I hope you haven't permanently attached those sections to the strips yet. Something looks a little out of sequence.

Projects Half Done. Many is not even close. I also turn pens and you should see those laying around.

So you can say you have many PHD's... Me too.. LOL.. My wife was talking to my kids ( mainly about Doctors but education and explaining different degrees ) about PHD's .. I piped up and said I have several PHD's The kids looked at me kinda funny and the wife had a slight puzzled look on her face wondering where the heck I was going to go with this one.. Once I explained myself.. they all just smiled and shook their heads.. Gotta keep them all on their toes.. LOL

I agree with Bill. I too have sawn and planed down oak boards to 1/8" and up to 3/8" without warping. I have a large clock project that I started some 10 years ago and never did get back to it and many of the pieces are 3/16" thick and are cut out and are still not warped. I know this because I moved this project the other day to get at some other wood underneath it. I really need to finish that project. Not sure where the plans are any more. I may have to wing it. I have quite a few projects never finished. Just lost interest in them mid way. I get bored quickly. Those people that do the same things over and over are a different breed in my mind.

Nice work Brenda. I am sure it will be greatly appreciated. Be careful with that flocking kit, it can get everywhere! Don't be flocking those puppies!

I had Craftsman many yeas ago the you had to insert a "U" shaped tool into the clamp and that held it in place while you used an allen wrench to loosen and tighten the clamp. I had to do it while on my knees looking up under the saw. I bet the engineer that designed it is still laughing! I finally mounted the saw on a box I made that had a hinged top. Then I could just put the saw over on it's side while I clamped the bottom of the blade in. That made it easier, but of coarse the hinged platform did not help reduce vibration any.

very nice job

terrific job

I've never noticed red oak being inherently prone to warping or cupping. I use a fair amount of it, sometimes planed down to as thin as 3/16" thick. I have a bunch of shorts in my shop right now, planed to various thicknesses 3/8" & under. It's a mixture of QS and flat sawn and has been leaning in a corner of my shop for many months. It's all still flat. I know, because I had to move it all the other day to get at something behind it. Wood will warp or cup for a number of different reasons, from the way it's sawn, to the way it's dried, milled and finished. On top of that, some trees are just more prone to internal stresses due to how and where they grew, regardless of species.

If you get hours out of your blades stick with them. i have tried olson's, FD' and pages and olson's match blades suit me best. I buy them by the gross and they are cheep @ about $0.25 each I usually get 30 to 45 minutes of cutting with them I was cutting the other day and my blade was dull but I only had about 10 minutes left so Idiot change the blade and that was a mistake the blade didn't break it just cut wrong and scrapped the work. don't push your blade past the dull stage it is a cheep expense IKE.

I Love it!! I have spent some time on my couch,easy chair,Fantastic job!!

Someone from here made the pattern and I asked him about it. Give me a while and I will find out who it was. Marg That was faster than I expected. I got it from Marshall Dillon. Just send him a message, I am sure he will oblige.

I use some MDF core oak plywood, stain the backer and finish with lacquer. I like it because the edge of the MDF core matches the backer.

I have a couple of boxes I thought I might enter, for the fun of it. One is an inlay of Elvis that I made for my wife and the other is one that I made for her that she liked when I showed it to her and she wanted me to cut for her. Dick heppnerguy

Hi Dick: Ah yes, the good old days when you were teaching us rookies... That's another thing that is great about the Village - as we get new Villagers they see what has been going on in the past so, what you teach today will help others down the road Glad you are part of this wonderful, sometimes nutty family Thanks again Dick Fab4

Oh, I might as well... made the Five Dragon box to put old nuts and bolts in, the Dutch box is where I throw my used and broken scroll saw blades. Then I made two Hamsa boxes to put ear wax in which is what I use make it easier to get screws screwed in.

Ok, first of all, the font was originally seen on Dicks @heppnerguy airplane piece https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/32956-oh-i-did-finish-my-b-25/?tab=comments#comment-368495 He then very kindly let me know where to get the font. I made a word plaque and https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/32989-new-font/ Then other people wanted to know where I got the 'font' from. And so the world turns in this wonderful community of ours !!!! Love your signs , how come you have to make so many ?

I enjoy designing and cutting all kinds of table top signs on my scroll saw. Here's one I came up with recently that smacks of nostalgia of the old days: The Village Smithy. You don't see too many of these around today in our modern world. The pattern is available for free on my website. Just scroll down to FREE PATTERNS page to collect it in PDF. I cut mine from a nice piece of curly maple and cut a custom cut wave base from the blank scrap. Might make a nice conversation piece.

I was going to ask the same thing. My saw sits on a very unlevel floor, big angle to the drain. I personally just take a protractor from the kids old geometry sets and hold it behind and then beside the blade.

I do the same thing basically but not everyone has that perfect scroll sawing area. Lots of people scroll on wood floors etc so have to be careful not to mis inform a newbie. And I’m just the kind of person that still going to use a square because it’s going to be the most accurate. IMO