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Here's another pattern just in time for Easter. Cut from birch ply and mounted on layered custom base. Pattern is free on my FREE PATTERNS PAGE.

The Yorkie I made for an aunt, for Christmas. She's always got an emotional-support-Yorkie. The Dane, made him for my wife after we lost our first Dane, Rebel, to bloat. Smartest dog I've ever met (including the Husky we fostered....that dog was smart, but had to be part weasel, too, so Rebel the Dane took first place in my heart). Both have an open section on them, but were cut on my first scroll saw, the weekend I picked it up from a yard sale. I hadn't looked up the manual online yet, so wasn't really sure how to change the blades or what size hole to drill. The rusty blade in the saw still worked, though, and didn't break until my next project. The flying unicorns, I'd figured out blades, found a local source of 3" pin-ended blades (Ace Hardware), and figured out which drill bit to use for pilot holes. These still hang on my daughter's wall.

I did this, .. I lost my mare a couple of years back and I've never quite got over it. This piece reminded me of her so I cut it. She roamed free in the garden and was a sweet thing and absolutely loved playing with my grandchildren and my puppies, I'll never forget her.

I'll jump in. This project is a grasshopper pull toy I made several years ago. It was a big hit with the kids that got it. Primarily, it was a bandsaw - drill press project. The wheels cut with a hole saw. The axles, 1/4" dowel stock. The joints for the legs, eyes and ends of the antennas were all from a craft store. The antennas themselves were electrical wire left at the garage when we purchased the house 32 years ago. The concept was from a woodworker on another site. I'm sure there will be some great items from the intarsia, segmentation folks.

Dang, some really neat stuff here. I don't have much in the line of critters. I have made my grandson a couple wood trucks, not critters. I did make him this dragon, he likes dragons. It is called the Time Keeper or something and was suppose to hold a clock, but for some reason I pictured him holding a crystal ball.

These bunnies are Steve Good’s pattern. Made with red oak. My wife found 10 wooden eggs already colored at Goodwill for 50 cents each.

A selection from my toy making days. I used to see yellow, my hair would be yellow, my clothes everything was yellow when I made the ducks. Besides the ull alongs like in the photo I used to make flappers that had a handle that you'd push and their feet, made out of vinyl would flap on the ground. I'd do dozens at a time as I just couldn't keep up with them. From memory they sold for about $20 each. All the googly eyes are recessed and superglued in place

I recently purchased one of the cheap Lasers on Ebay and paid about $80 for it. It will Laser a JPG image about 2" x 2". I wanted to try it out on a project so made a box to hold the puzzles of the Dragon called Hie designed by Judy Peterson. The box is made of 5/16" oak with the corners mitered using a hand plane and shooting board. The top and bottom are 1/8' BB and I lasered a copy of the puzzle on the top and a small Handcrafted by on the bottom. I made two puzzles with one being quarter sawn Sycamore and the other Aspen dyed red. The puzzle pieces are fully interchangeable.

A sign I made for my neighbour a few years ago. He restores old motors. Has some beauties. If I can find some pics of them I'll post them Anyhow enjoy and I will post the patterns to so if you want to make use of them feel free to do so.

I often use the Mortice and tenon method of fixing an upright project to a base. Once the upright has been cut I place the tenon on the base, scribe around it and cut inside the line with the scrollsaw. Sometimes a little tweaking is necessary for a perfect fit. Alternatively, you could drill screw the pieces together, disassemble them and place the couple of screws in small plastic bag for the recipient to re-assemble. Hell IKEA does it all the time

Charles moved on to other things. At least for now. You can get some of his patterns from Bear Woods https://www.bearwood.com/scroll-saw-patterns-free-for-sale.html

Step 1....Remove from saw. Step 2...Lay side with rod touching floor. Step 3...Slide rod under bottom edge of door. Step 4...Gently tap hold down foot with tip of shoe so as to wedge rod under door." Step 5...Leave in this position until ready to close door.

Does anyone else do something like this? I consulted the scrap bucket and came up with this. It’s mounted with magnets.

Dragons look much better holding crystal balls. Check out Steve Good's site, he has a "Dragon Pendant" pattern that's just AWESOME as-is, or even cooler when enlarged.

Well after talking to Dick( Hepenguy) he talked me into doing this clock tower which I thought was way beyond my scrolling talent. I would of never have been able to do this without all his help and guidance. I couldn't even get started with the pattern, it was so confusing. WE sent a lot of emails and we also talked on the phone. He gave me a lot of tips. I just want to give a big shoutout to Dick and for all his help in getting me to finish this. I haven't figured out how i'm going to put a finish on this or what type of finish I should do. Any tips would sure help. There's a lot of nooks and cranies. Thanks again Dick.

Here are a few I have done lately..the beware of dog and home is where the cat is are my patterns and the other three are Steve Good patterns...all very popular sellers.

They are still on my saws, but I don't use them myself. I have them there for my students, as some seem to need the hold downs when first learning to scroll saw. It's a safety device for them, until they get used to holding their work down. After that, even they want it out of the way. I just turn them backwards, set them as high as possible, and leave them there, until the next newbie begins using the saw. Charley

Wow, I am kind of surprised some of the older members here don't seem to use the holddown. It is probably true that they are provided mostly for liability reasons but I do find them useful for some projects especially with thicker materials. I have arthritis in my hands and find the hold down really helps with pain and fatigue. I don't use it often but it is right there when I need it. At least on my Hegner the hold down can be positioned up out of the way so it doesn't interfere when not in use.

Many of the recent projects I have done for the magazine use mortise and tenon for assembly. Not my favorite method but necessary for certain projects, like the Japanese inspired shelf in the SSWWC summer issue. What I do is cut the tenons then mark around it where I am putting the mortise. an easy cut with the scroll saw just up to the inside of the lines. If need be I clean up the mortise with a very sharp chisel until I get a slip fit. If I don't get a perfect fit or small gaps in the back I just rub in a bit of sawdust and spray on my finish. It is much stronger than screws and less risk of splitting your project.

Thanks John. I do understand side pressures as I have 2 milling machines using collets. Nothing I would sand would have have much side pressure as I would not doing any shaping but rather even out small missteps I've made. Advice is always useful!

My youngest daughter's dog Charlie!! A very simple cutting....but she will be excited!! Looks crooked on the backing....but only because I shot the pic at a bad angle.....sorry!!!

would it be easier to ,, no never mind, I talked myself out of it wasn't,, a good idea;

I think the best reason for the "tabs" in a "hole" method is shipping and storage. For example, I have made 2 different schwibbogens. One glued together one held together with tabs. The tabbed one I can take apart and store easily in a thin box. The glued on, I haven't figured out yet how the heck I will store it!

Kevin If I understand your question you are trying to work with a mortise and tenon joint. I cut these all the time.I do bases that I glue up and used in furniture I built quite a bit. The best way to get a "good" fit is to sneak up on it. The tenon is cut a little over sized and the the mortise is cut a little under-sized. The you sneak up on the proper fit. When starting out with these they can be a bit of a challenge but that goes away with practice and patience. The same applies to scrolling. Just remember that what you on all side are accumulative and can end up being too much removed for a good fit. I normally divided the space to be removed by 1/2 then cut just shy of that. Thus the sneaking up on the cut. Hope this helps. Keep practicing and it will get a lot easier in time.

This is number 9 that I have made for my best customer, It is 14.5 inches x 9 inches & was cut with 3/0 new spirals & No 1 ultra reverse blades. I really like the way this one turned out. Cheers Peter P.S the pattern is by Noel from the Scrollers Cafe.

WOW, and it's in my neighborhood, Very close by but I don't have the room LOL!

Heck, I have a lot of those. jerry

very nice job

When my daughter moved to the Atlanta, GA area for school - i finally got my first couple of trips to Ikea in. (Closest one to me.) We bought her some of that self assembly stuff. Good thing she, my son and hubby is good with pictures and putting things together like that! I'd still be struggling with it and its been over 9 months now. They are all much more mechanically inclined then I am I'm afraid. My son used to love putting lego projects together when he was little, the bigger the better.

I did this some time ago

Thanks! I figured that was coming, at one time he was trying to sell all his patterns I believe.

that is a real beauty. You have done a great job with your project. once again, and as always. I sure wish I could get access to that web site. For some reason they will not let me log in to it. Dick heppnerguy

sure is a cute little guy. I bet they would sell at a craft show. Very well done Dick heppnerguy

Very well done Lew .you will be daughters hero for sure

came out nice, thanks for posting it. jim

Super job on the pattern and cutting Mate.

We also call them hit and miss. They are amazing old pieces of equipment. can run for hours on the smell of an oily rag. When I was a young bloke we had a slightly more modern engine driving the milking machine and generator for power for the house.

Great sign John, thanks for sharing. Jeff

My Free pattern for today is aimed at an important occupation. Lots of plumbers out there who might enjoy this sign. I cut mine from plain ol' pine, but to dress it up a bit I cut an improvised base of cherry. Fairly easy to cut, so take the plunge. The pattern is available in PDF on my FREE PATTERN page

That came out great Dick. Love the artwork and layered look. Another technique that got the wheels turnin.

Among the many many jobs I do in work is controlling this Aviation Fire Simulator, AKA The Hulk, as in Jolly Green Hulk. It has an elevated Control Room to oversee the whole area. For reasons that I can't explain this room has been called The Fuse Box for years but I decided to give it a more personal title, so I am going to hang the framed plaque in it. The top half is the wording that I tried to do in Dick's Umbra-normal. Computer screen looks great and then I press print. What gets printed is the font in the plaque. I have tried 3 different printers but have no luck so far. The second part is based on the first photo. I used GIMP, but used desaturate instead of curves, then artistic and phototcopy as normal. The frame I had spare is 16 inch by 13 inch, so I used two smaller pieces of 6mm BB. it has BLO as a finish.

Beautiful! Nice work.

I have never had the pleasure of doing business with them but I do know that cancer is the most hideous, depicable thing I can think of. It has taken so many good folks way before their time. Such a shame we can't put more resources toward finding a cure and/or a prevention. Somehow, I personally think that they will find many cures in the world of cannibis. I keep hearing about all the success stories of CBD oil and even the Feds have approved it for people who have seizures. I hope this lady is successful in her battle of the dreaded disease.

I see the fancy shadow letters got snuck in there!! Over all great job Richard!!!

The one for my saw at home is gone. I moved a few times and I think it didn't make the cut in one of them, although it might still be in the bottom of one of the drawers. At school I leave them on. I explain to the kids what they are and how to adjust them. I also tell them why I don't use the hold down. About half of the kids use it.

Yep me too Hell I do the math in my head, and use a calculator to check my math

I'm almost stone deaf but I like my blades very tight. In my mind's ear I like to imagine it as E above high C in the treble clef. Only time I ever break a blade is a #1 blade fed from the bottom. Sometimes when they look bent up like a pretzel they will break.

I set up the tension level on my EX the way the factory manual said. Put blade in flip lever and start cutting. No need to ping or push. Same every time.

Something like that might be useful for beginners, but I suspect that with a little experience, they would very quickly learn to do without it.