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Framed today, Ken Keyes pattern 11 X 14, stack cut two 1/8 inch BB ply. Jeff

I've got this thing with '30's cars. Found a picture of a 1936 Duesenberg. Love those big Drum Headlights, side exhaust pipes and grill. As usual, it took a whole lot longer to do the design (pixel Pacman) than the actual cut. I had to go big because of the grill. 19 x 12. I think I have the grill technique down. I score all the lines with a straight edge and a razor then stop the cut just below the top of the individual grills then tape everything down for support and then go back and cut out the rest. It made me nervous but it worked. Sequencing the cuts are important because there are a lot of large floppy pieces. Material was 1/8" BB with 1/4" backer. Another box may be next.

This is a Steve Good pattern except I changed the flower and put the Chanel logo in it for a friend. Made out of 1/8 BB plywood

The latest talk is about the end of the popular TV series "Game of Thrones" so I thought it fitting to do a sign commemorating the show. I cut mine from a blank of various wood scraps I put together, therefore you'll notice different colored woods throughout. The starkness of the series impressed me the most, so I made the base a combination of radical angles and levels. Hope you enjoy working with this pattern. Available for free on my FREE PATTERN page. Also available is my attempt a humor with the title.

Made this for the neighbors church. BB ply and a Walnut backer.

Most of what Kevin says is great advice. However, as a former professional packaging supply & equipment salesman, I need to offer a correction and a suggestion. Large bubble, 1/2", is not designed for protection, but is designed to be used as void fill. Small bubble, 3/16", is what you want to use to wrap items for protection, as that is what it was designed to do. Always wrap items with the bubble out, as bubble can have an abrasive effect on finished items. Thicker foam, 1/8"-1/4" is a good alternative for bubble, but more expensive. Bubble and foam are both sold at Home Depot for a reasonable price in lesser quantities. For larger void fill requirements, I have found empty.5 liter, or 16.9oz water bottles with the cap firmly tightened, a great option. They are strong, lightweight, and large enough to fill bigger spaces, and if you loosen the cap, you can slightly crush them to fit odd shapes, tightening the cap again after forming them. I shipped a laptop to a former employer using water bottles, and they performed well.

I'd like to share my design for a swing wing, overhead blade storage system. The basic concept is that individual tubes of blades can be easily accessed either from a seated or standing position whilst at the saw. They are located above the general work area, so do not take up otherwise useful workspace, and both racks of blades (wings) can be individually swing to an open or closed position. The plastic, screw top tubes were purchased on Amazon and have an integral lip near the top, which allows them to sit in pre-drilled holes without falling through. I imagine that the normal straight sided tubes could also be fitted with elastic bands or o-rings around the top section to perform a similar function. When not in use, both wings of tubes can hinge/swing back into the main body section, which is supported by a large bracket onto the back wall behind the saw (could also potentially attach to the rear of a saw stand) and a threaded rod gives additional support nearest the front. The rod is attached to the ceiling of the garage (a fairly low ceiling height in my case). I used ply for the main body, some old recycled chipboard (sprayed silver) for the wings and a length of pine along the upper centre of the main body. The rod support also holds a ply support bracket to which I clip an illuminated LED magnifier which lights up when the saw is operated via. a foot switch. To allow the arms to swing out, I simply fitted a bolt with a nyloc nut through both the main body and wing, with two pairs slightly dished oversize washes (convex sides face to face) sandwiched between the the two pieces of wood to act as bearings (a little grease added for lubrication). A small knob was added to each wing section to allow my finger to operate the pivot movement. When in the open position, the inner front radius on each wing contacts with the near end of the central pine support, which acts as a stop. Care was taken so that the storage system did not interfere with visibility of the work area or obstruct in any way. The holes for the tubes (nine in each wing), were purposely offset so that the blade identification labels in the far row could be read without being obscured by tubes in front.

I made it as a gift for my wife.

@octoolguy and others were interested in knowing more about my dust extraction system which is currently on my Hegner saw. The system could no doubt be adapted for use with other saws and I may even make further improvements over time. It is based on researched designs already posted on these forums and elsewhere, but I believe I have made an improvement which allows the upper extraction pipe to be temporarily hinged out of the way for easier blade feed when making internal cuts. Rather than post a long string of photos and text, I have incorporated the information in a single pdf, which a), I hope you are able to download and read, and b), that I'm able to attach it to this post. David Edit: the pdf link is at the bottom of this post. Also, I've just noticed in the pdf that the term 'Nyloc nuts' has been changed to 'Nylon nuts' (curse of auto-correct). Please read as Nyloc nuts (the metal nuts with a nylon insert to prevent them readily working loose. I originally tried wing nuts to attach/tighten the linkage arms, but found they quickly worked loose whenever the linkage was moved. hegner-dust-extraction.pdf

Scared me, I have been hiding, I hit the return key and all of a sudden it went to "Software Upgrade".... I though I had really screwed something up!

Well April 9th is declared Unicorn day, so it is only fitting that we have a sign for it. This bold sign was cut from Sapele and mounted on an improvised base cut from the left over wood. Hope you enjoy it. Might make some little kid very happy. You can download the free pattern from my FREE PATTERN page.

Hi Bob, No the Regional Rate Boxes are different and in some cases Regional Rate is more expensive than just regular Priority mail..Just depends on what region they're going to.. These are the boxes I keep here on hand and my most used box for what I sell.. I normally cut them down to about 4-6 inch high rather than the 8" I normally order 3-4 25 packs at a time..you can bet I have plenty on hand before the busy holidays LOL.. most my car clocks mail out in these https://store.usps.com/store/product/shipping-supplies/priority-mail-box---7-P_O_BOX7 These are the Regional rate boxes I use.. again I use these for the smaller clocks I make But I may stop using them.. as most times the region I mail to is more than just regular priority.. https://store.usps.com/store/product/shipping-supplies/priority-mail-regional-rate-box---a1-P_RRB_A1 These here work nice for smaller portraits.. I don't sell a whole lot of portraits and plaques.. but I use these most times when I do.. https://store.usps.com/store/product/shipping-supplies/priority-mail-box---1095-P_O_1095 These work nice for the puzzles like Iggy makes https://store.usps.com/store/product/shipping-supplies/priority-mail-box---1097-P_O_1097 Now.. I might add... Be sure the post office isn't charging you for the flat rate box when you cut down that 12 x 12 x 8 to a smaller size.. They tried to pull that one on me one day when i dropped off a package.. she said whoa wait a minute.. she said you got a regular priority label on a Flat Rate Box.. I said NO that's a Regular Priority Box CUT DOWN.. LOL... then she was embarrassed.. But the large Flat Rate Box is also 12 x 12 X 5-1/2 .. so it's easy for them to assume it's a Flat Rate Box... Hope This Helps..

I think this forum fills the void. Tons of info, education resources, world wide participation, lists clubs and organizations, product reviews, vendor listings, wonderful patterns, the list goes on. And all for free unless one chooses to donate in some fashion. Really, what more could one offer?

That was my initial thoughts also, first glance looks like a surgical station all the tubing and gadgets. I'm another one anxious to see you post on the vacuum set up. I keep tweaking mine and always looking for ideas. I notice you have something in the nozzle of the top suction. I can't make out what it is but I assume it is to keep little cut off pieces from being sucked away. Here is what I found work like it was built for that purpose. Only problem is finding a good source for them. I found this as part of the nozzle that screws on to the end of a faucet in on my utility sink when I replaced that faucet. It is the perfect size to clip right into a 3/4" nozzle. I hope to find some more of them one of these days.

I am really liking her patterns...this is cut from 3/4 mystery wood ....maybe Oak....used 2/0 and 3/0 FD new spiral blades...Minwax natural stain and spray on poly..Her patterns are a challenge , but worth the work...Hope you like it....comments welcome.

Oh for crying out loud Paul just lightly sand the perimeter and apply some wipe on darkening poly stain. Really it just might work!! But if it doesn't don't blame me it's just a suggestion. LOL

Howdy All. I just upgraded SSV's software. As with any software upgrade, things will get a bit wonky as I set everything back. Let me know if something is broken or isn't behaving correctly. I know there's a number of things that I have on my list. I'm going to try to get things back to normal over the next few days. Hopefully, you won't notice most of them.

Great gift for a new baby. I cut mine from a fancy grained poplar 1/4". I had a short blank made from pieces of scrap I had and wanted to use it for the base, but it was too short, unless I used it diagonally. So I improvised a cut around the edges to make an interesting variegated base for the sign to sit upon. Don't like wasting wood if I can help it. Pattern

This was cut in 1/2 poplar using 2/0 and 3/0 FD new spiral blades....Paul recently cut this in Oak and I like the oak a little better...Fiona's patterns are always a challenge...I do like the way this turned out....Thanks for looking.

Thanks so much to Paul aka @grampa for the fantastic pattern. This was left unframed at the customer's request. Cut with a Flying Dutchman No3 from 4mm marine ply (Baltic Birch is not available here in NZ) with 3mm painted MDF backer. Thanks for looking. Rob

Mine is coming up next week, we go to Vegas for a week in April (after I get taxes filed) and August, our b-day months, so I send the kids a wish list from amazon. Amazon delivers, I get what I want, heh heh a score of threads or so ago, someone mentioned using magnetic sign material on the scroll saw deck (what is it deck, table, surface you cut on, flat piece, doohickey?), so that was one of the things in the wish list. It came in, I cut it to size, nice! wood slides so easily - thank you for whoever suggested it, took off my mdf overlay first of course

Nicely done! Great patterning skills also. Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Love it Jeff! Real neat scrolling there! Thank you for posting, Bob

I use shrink wrap to keep the small pieces of my puzzles from seperating. When I mail them, the shrink wrap makes the puzzle ridgid, a piece of thin cardboard and a couple of layers of bubble wrap protects them while the shipper tries to distroy them. If I ship very fragile items, I pack a box then place that box inside another that is slightly larger. Fill the space in with bubble wrap or popcorn and off it goes. Hope this helps some too.

Hi Ike, I the saw is a Hegner Multicut-2S and the distance between the blade and back frame is 18 inches. To answer your question on size capacity, I have not tested it on anything that large, as I'm more interested in cutting smaller pieces, but I imagine that would be a sort of maximum capacity size, or perhaps a little less than that. The drawback for blade feed is that the upper arm on the Hegners do not lift sufficiently for top feeding, unless the blade is first removed completely. Edit: Sorry, Ike, I may have misinterpreted your comment. I think you may have been referring to the possibility of the upper extraction pipework (Locline) getting in the way when continually manipulating workpieces above the table for bottom feeding the blades. As I mentioned previously, Hegners do have a limitation in this way, but in my design the upper Locline extraction pipe can be easily and temporarily swung to the side, away from the table for this very purpose. Your comment has however made me think about the ability to quickly lift the smaller blower Locline temporarily out of the way whilst bottom feeding the blade. At the moment, the Locline blower section can be lifted by first loosening a wing nut near the point near the upper arm bearing, but there may be a way to do that more quickly, again. without repeatedly having to bend the Locline out of shape to move it. I'll have to give it some thought.

very nice

amazing workmanship, it's beautiful

You answered a question I always wondered about.. and that is what way to wrap the bubble wrap.. I've been doing it all wrong for the last 6 years, LOL I did know that the larger bubble wrap was for filling more than protection.. I still use it kinda as a protection but my clocks I wrap about 5 times around.. most clocks are 10 inch long and 5-6 inch tall I package then in the free 12 x 12 x 8 priority boxes but I typically cut the box down to more like 5-6 in high instead of 8.. then I fill in with packing peanuts.. Never had any issues with them.. Clocks are priority mail because of free shipping insurance and boxes.. so the only thing out of my pocket is the packing.. The cost range is $7- 10.50.. with average is mostly $8.50.. sometimes I make a buck on shipping and sometimes I loose a bit.. The ones I always thought I'd have issue with is the delicate Christmas ornaments.. but I pack those in the little jewelry gift boxes that have cotton in them.. then i wrap the box with 2 sheets of the 3/16 bubble wrap by the time you fold that bubble wrap around the box there is about 2-3 inch of padding around the box.. Then i just mail it in a 9 x 6 bubble mailer.. first class mail usually cost $2.70 ish

Admittedly I did vac and polish before taking the photos. I jokingly said to my wife yesterday, that it looks like a piece of hospital equipment with all the tubes and such. I must be getting OCD about dust (not having it around) these days, and I've even purchased an air quality monitor. Given the choice though, I think I'd love to use the saw outdoors, on a warm summer's day, without the added extraction noise and listen to the birds singing and the wind gently blowing in the trees.

WOW!! Awesome job.Blurring eyes time when ya got thru I bet.

GOO GOOGLY GOO!!! That is just Down Right Awesome I have admired Dusey,s since I first put one together,(Model) You made a Beautiful Classic here.

We do have a Beautiful State.I have been to Pigeon Forge.,Memphis yrs back.now Chatt, This is 1 Beautiful state.

That is one awesome pattern and cutting. Very impressive as always. Marg

That is cute. Another terrific cutting, well done Jeff. Marg

A cool project. I have a neighbor that has one of these pickups that he drives around town a lot. Fun to see it going down the road. I like the way you did this clock. How did you do the inside of the wheel spokes? Are they cut out or wood burned ? Dick heppnerguy

How cute is that.

looks like a surgeon could work in your shop. So Clean. Need a scoop shovel for mine after a couple days cutting LOL grizz

Ahhh, Gees, Jeff! Where do you keep coming up with these neat patterns?? That is a cute one and well cut. Great job!

Nice pattern and cut.

Wonderful job on a great pattern. Had not seen this one. Jeff

Wow! That's awesome!!! Great work..

Glad you had a good trip, I see you must be a train buff, RJ

Hi Jim, I've not really sold any wood projects that large.. but rule of thumb is a minimum of inch larger box for air space than the actual item.. actually I believe that is what the post office requires as a minimum.. and if it doesn't have that much space they have a right not to pay out on an insurance claim.. IF the piece weighs less than 16oz after packaging First Class mail is the most economical BUT, I find that if the value of a piece exceeds about $50 then actually buy the time you add shipping insurance Priority mail is actually the better way to go.. The commercial mail system on venues such as etsy, amazon, and ebay... even shipping through PayPal.. the priority mail option includes insurance up to a certain amount.. I believe $100 on etsy but the others I think is only $50? not sure but you have to watch it with the different venues.. If the shipping destination is outside the USA you can mail it First Class if it's ( I believe ) under 2 pounds.. I try to make pieces that are sized where I don't have to keep thousands of different sized boxes on hand.. I order boxes from Staples online.. but also most my items will ship in the USPS free priority mail boxes.. NOTE: NOT THE FLAT RATE BOXES.. they have free priority boxes besides those rip off flat rate boxes.. I use their 12 x 12 x 8 and cut them down.. also use the Regional Rate size A.. These don't help you now.. but might with some of your other items.. Maybe they have larger boxes.. as they do have some that I get free that fit my portrait style cuttings.. like 3-4 inch high by 14 x 16 or something like that.. I can't think of the size off the top of my head.. I buy large bubble.. bubble wrap to wrap my pieces in.. I get it from this eBay seller, I see they don't have any right now.. hope they don't stop selling it as they always had the best prices.. https://www.ebay.com/str/SC-Recycling-Pros?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 I also by bubble mailers from them.. Smaller bubble wrap ( 3/16 ) the best deal is at sams club.. Packing peanuts I buy from staples online.. they have always had the best price on this.. but they don't have that great prices in store.. Just did a quick search and looks like maybe uline has good pries now and I also don't see the big bags I normally get at staples.. I buy the big bags.. tall as I am LOL usually get two at a time so I qualify for free shipping.. go through about 2-3 of them a year.. You can order the boxes from the post office.. just look for the free boxes.. I don't use the Flat Rate as it's usually not as low cost of shipping as their regular priority boxes.. Order online and they'll ship them to you.. They aren't too fast at getting them to you though.. so order in advance.. Usually about 10 days or so for me to get them.. Post Office Shipping Supplies Packaging oddball stuff.. I hate using packaging that has weight to it such as packing paper / news papers etc.. so on occasion since we keep ziploc style sandwich bags and freezer bags a couple times to take up space and keep weight down.. I've been known to fill the bags with some air and make bubble pouches .. works well in a pinch.. baggies aren't that cheap so I don't recommend making it standard practice.. LOL Lastly.. I have a local store called Pak Mail and they offer packing and shipping.. not cheap for the packing end of it.. I just use them because they are closer than staples to me and they sell packing supplies.. many different box sizes etc to choose from.. Now.. any specific questions.. let me know.. be glad to offer some help or advice if I can

Likewise I have never seen BB (Baltic Birch) at Home Depot or Lowes. That also goes for products sometimes called Finish Birch and Russian Birch. And I have been in some of these stores in NY, VA, NC, SC, GA, TN, and FL. I get my BB, in 5 x 5 sheets from a specialty lumber store.

All I know about Unicorns is: Don't play leap frog with one!

Well after talking to Dick( Hepenguy) he talked me into doing this clock tower which I thought was way beyond my scrolling talent. I would of never have been able to do this without all his help and guidance. I couldn't even get started with the pattern, it was so confusing. WE sent a lot of emails and we also talked on the phone. He gave me a lot of tips. I just want to give a big shoutout to Dick and for all his help in getting me to finish this. I haven't figured out how i'm going to put a finish on this or what type of finish I should do. Any tips would sure help. There's a lot of nooks and cranies. Thanks again Dick.

Well dang Brad, I sure hope you get to feeling better and can get out and make some sawdust..

I did some practice cutting text again.. fun project from Sheila Landry's website.. I cut this from 1/8" BB ply stacked three.. then the backers are 1/4" Walnut ply with solid walnut strips in the back to hold all together.. I have a few other patterns of these type plaques they have on their site.. probably take a short break on cutting text though.. and I have to cut the 36 Ford pickup that Jim made a pattern for me anyway.. This measures about 18" tall x about 15 wide if I remember correct.. Cut this on the Hawk 226 Ultra.. ( Pegas MG #3) was cut before getting my new Hawk.. actually cut for a while.. just gluing the backer and assembling took almost as long as the cutting..LOL

Beautiful pieces......great talent and it shows!