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Just finished my remembrance lantern, it's the same Steve good pattern just modified a little VID_20190506_214050.mp4

In keeping with Alien's theme, I did this, then the wife liked it and took it, so naturally I made it for her

I'll kick it off with a couple of flower's I've made for my wife. The first was something I found on Pinterest while searching for Celtic Knots. I couldn't find any info on the original artist. The second is a Steve Good pattern, and after making one for my wife, I got a request to make another for a friend to give to her husband on their anniversary.

Went to the Dr. today, he said everything was looking good and to come out of the sling. Now for Strength Therapy. nothing over two pounds and no overhead work. A scroll saw isn't over my head!!! hahahaha

Work I,ve been doing.Looks like I messed up the computer as to why I can,t upload since January.all these are sent from my phone.

I don't have room in my shop to use the factory stand for my new Pegas saw so I made a base for it to be able to clamp it to my bench. Probably not necessary to clamp it though. It doesn't move at all but I did want the blade storage and to raise it to a more comfortable height for me. Thought it might be useful to others so I am sharing what I did. It is made from some leftovers I had around the shop. I cut some pipe in half for the blade trays in the drawer. Used a forstner bit to drill a piece of 1/4 plywood and cut it in half to mount the pipe pieces to. The drawers slide out because it was the easy way to go. The small gray squares are made from the floor mats that HF sells to help raise the saw to a better height for me. I also made a place for the hold down clamp so it doesn't get lost.

I found this free template and decided to do it with epoxy.

This is my second pattern by Charles Hand. The Dragonfly measures approximately 9" in diameter. I used Corian due to the possibility of using it as a trivet. After completing I knew with how fragile this piece was, the only place for it would to be mounted for display. Corian is an easy material to work with but you have to run at a slower speed in order to create less friction which can melt the cut material together and create problems. I used a #5 Polar blade and used a total of 11 blades for this project. Cutting time on this piece was 14 hours. In the end, presentation is in the display. I used maple for the frame and black felt on the back mounting bo ard. Will be doing some additional work on the frame next week along with the finish on the frame.

Another Neptune/Janevsky pattern. I enlarged it by 25%. 1/4" BB. #1 Pegas MG. 50/50 BLO.

Gotta say it was a privilege watching this great pattern by Sue Mey come to life on this beautiful piece of Walnut . I looked for 3 days for a way to back it that didn't take away from it. Settled on a piece of natural slate tile. Wonderful hobby we have isn't it?

This clock was made from beech wood (the body) and white walnut wood (the disk). Covered with liquid oil

Well I have been very busy and enjoying it. Finished this one today. Got the pattern from Scroller. and the designer is White Tail Designs. LTD. Thanks for looking have a great week. Mimi

Ray, there is never a reason to be crotchety. Therefore you are not excused. So there!

I finally saved enough to get a new scrollsaw and I went with the Dewalt 788. I love this scrollsaw but I had to buy an arm lifter for it and it works great!!!! My old craftsman was starting to show it’s age even though it was a great saw to me. Just the size difference alone is great.

One of my Free Page donors asked if I could do several patterns, so I will be posting those as I complete them. This is the first for golfers, following the idea of the Archery Club I designed earlier. I cut this one from 1/4" walnut and used the off cut reshaped for the top layer of the base. I used pine for the bottom of the base. Free Pattern available:

This is a pattern from Steve Good. I added the red felt and used a pencil torch to seal the felt. John Old Dust

Was asked to make a couple of wedding gifts. With the help of Bobscroll making the patterns I was able to do it. Used red oak & painted plywood for backer. 8” x 24” had to do some fancy standing to get my EX 21 in line to cut.

I posted this project awhile ago but it fits here. The flower and petals are made of thin wood shavings. The Monarch is wood with epoxy fill.

So after I did the Steve good lantern I added some tissue paper to the inside to look like a Japanese lantern I also tried a different design but the wood was too Fragile and one of the deers heads broke off. Pictures show the 1st one I did but with the lining and the new design.

As you know I like making bowl, this time I tried to make another type of bowl - compound, what do you think? Birch plywood 1/6 inch, stain, glossy varnish Fruit bowl Pattern Here is short video of making bowl: And photos:

I did this because I loved the piece and I hope I did it justice. It's nice to be back at my saw.

There you go, thinking again! We have an excellent copy shop close by, after doing what you recommended, I would have it copied in red, as red is much easier on the eyes when cutting.

If you look closely you'll see how we were made free.

Great looking work!!!

Haven’t seen pictures of your work for awhile. You retired? LOL

Thanks, Kevin, I'm hopeing for the best, I enjoy showing what i do all day,lol

Nice. Congrats. I went from a Craftsman to a DeWalt many years ago. That was a big step up in quality and really enhanced the enjoyment of the hobby. If you don't already have one, a footswitch is another great accessory. I would recommend one for any saw, but they almost were a necessity with the DeWalts a few years ago. DeWalts had a chronic problem with the on/off switch getting flaky because of dust getting inside and on the contacts. I don't hear much about that problem these days, so maybe they solved it, but the footswitch is still a great addition to any scroll saw.

Proof is in the pudding Les, looks like you got pretty good results on your frame. Well done. Another little tip, You might want to take a little fine sandpaper and adhere it to the jig. You could put a strip on the fences or even on the base. This will help prevent the wood from creeping when you push it through the saw.

Mail your nails and any extra boxtops to; NAILS PO. Box 6 Penny Battlecreek, Michigan 123456 RJF

Have a yard sale.

Rocky never square any jig off any part of a tablesaw except the blade. Every measurement comes off the blade. Not the fence not the miter gauge, but the blade. Just a side note.

Ray we are all different. I live in a home so there is always work to do. I love building things and untill I can not do that then I may be like you. Weather you use screws or nails the main thing is to make it work. I like nails and screws and glue and biscuit joinery, dowels for joining as well and the list goes on.

That is a beautiful cutting and an equally beautiful presentation.

I did it. I made my miter sled. Very crude but seems to work. I just used what I had on hand with the exception of the toggle clamps which came from HF. It was somewhat of a struggle as I have a cheap saw with chintzy fence. I always use a framing square to make sure it is square with the table. There are things I will do different should I make another one which I probably won't. I wanted to make a rustic frame so I used a very rough cedar fence stake. I may never make another as my space is too crowded to work comfortably.

Your drawer system is as pretty as your saw. Very well done.

Nice job there Mimi, Thank you for showing, Bob

I downloaded it on the Bragging area. I have tried to find it but have not been able to do so. However, I will check your web site and remit the cost of the pattern with paypal. Sorry for the kerfuffel.

Apparently not... Too bad to because we all enjoy seeing your projects.. and we are all having withdraws from not seeing your projects.. Hopefully you'll get it resolved soon..

You've done a wonderful job on that. I really like wildlife patterns!

Your message is clear. I love it!

Steve, that is extremely well done, and it is a real show stopper. But with something of this size and quality, The las place I would have it on display, would be on the garage door. No Sir, that belongs on a wall inside a building, somewhere where it won't be destroyed by the elements. Len

Work of art!!!

Great work! I hope @neptun sees this! God Bless! Spirithorse

Thanks for the explanation and really nice work. God Bless! Spirithorse

Great piece of art. Professional work.

fantastic job

Oh WOW that is awesome. What did you paint them with? FABULOUS. Marg

Awesome!!! A lot of work.

Hi Steve: AWESOME!!! Thanks for showing us Fab4

I have two of what many would consider to be "expensive" high end magnifying lights. I bought them from Judy Gale Roberts after having used them in her classroom studio. You can find them on her site here: https://intarsia.com/collections/hardware/products/new-led-daylight-slimline-magnifying-lamp It comes with 2 different diopter lenses that are 5" wide. It has little to no distortion even at the edges of the lenses. I have been using mine for about 3 years now. I couldn't scroll without it. I need the light and the magnification. As I noted, it comes with two different lenses (1.75X and 2.25X) that you can swap in or out. I would say they are indeed high quality with little distortion. After buying the first one at Judy's, I decided I needed a second one for the second saw I had. Instead of buying another one from Judy and since this was a saw that was not my "main" saw, I thought I would save a little money and buy a cheaper one. I think I tried two. Neither of them were nearly the quality of the one bought from Judy's shop. The lenses were not the same quality and had a lot more distortion with them especially around the edges, and there were "shadows" that I don't get with the one I bought at Judy's. As a result, I got rid of those and got a 2nd one from Judy and haven't looked back. Well worth the expense in my opinion, especially if you use your saws as much as you do Kevin. MFRP is around $260. Judy's price is $152.10 and notes its $20 shipping (but also notes that shipping can vary - she usually only charges actual shipping cost.) This is in part due to how heavy it is (the lenses are very heavy) and the box is not small. It has a spring arm that clamps on. Mine are both clamped on my saws and I don't get any vibration that moves it. When I bought the second one, I decided to look around and see if I could find it cheaper then I could at Judy's site. I looked at Amazon and the Manufacturer's site and both were more then at Judy's site. I just checked both again. On Amazon, there are 3 listings. 2 are much higher and then there is one listing slightly cheaper then Judy's and list it with free shipping ($149.95 and free shipping so perhaps a savings of about $2 on the light and the shipping cost.) I know if anything was wrong - Judy would attempt to make it right though. The Amazon listings I found are here: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Daylight+Slimline+LED+Magnifying+Lamp&rh=p_89%3ADaylight&dc&qid=1556194395&rnid=2528832011&ref=sr_nr_p_89_1 It is $255 on the Manufacturer's site and appears to show free shipping from there: https://daylightcompany.com/slimline-led-magnifying-lamp-daylight-25030.html.html I will also note that I did not have to pay shipping for the ones I bought from Judy because I live about 40 minutes away from her shop. The first one I bought while I was in an Intarsia class there and brought it home. The second one, I also bought when I went back for a second class. Because I live local, I didn't have to worry about shipping it home or getting it home if I had flown in for a class. I do know that if they every went out, I would quickly be seeking the same quality light as quickly as possible. I know several others who have taken her classes have also purchased the light after using them in her classes. I know that @NC Scroller Scott also bought one when I bought mine as we were in the same class.