Leaderboard

hope grampa likes how it turned out Pattern by grampa

I found this Gary MacKay pattern in an old SSWC magazine and decided to get my feet wet in intarsia. I have only applied one coat of Watco's natural. I can't decide if I want to shoot it with clear lacquer. Also, it sure would be nice to get hold of some wood that has color/grain that matches. I don't know how the writer did it. Oh well....... I still have to get some black felt to line the drawers and top compartment with.

hope you like these

Here ya go ,what fun this was staying on my toes fearing a break out.Well yes I did have an accident a few minutes into cutting it.i think it's the second to the last letter that I broke thru.Very articulate done pattern that covered all the nooks an crannys ,first one I did that is like this ,Good job Melanie ,Keep them coming!!!

There seems to be a few staying safe patterns just recently so here are a couple that I've done. I have two very good friends, one is a baker and the other a chocolatier.

Just finished this one a little while ago. Ready for a frame. Thanks to Brittany for the permission to use her artwork.

John, my very first jigsaw puzzle is my avatar and was cut freehand without a pattern. I took a scrap piece of 1/4” BB plywood and just started cutting.till I found what works. The picture was from a calendar. I mounted it using 3M 77 spray adhesive on the back of the picture, then mounted it to 1/4” BB plywood. Because it was semi glossy and thicker paper, I did not apply any top coating. Again, this was cut freehand, without any pattern. I don’t do a lot of jigsaw puzzles but they are fun to do!

Finished these two Christmas Items, S G patterns.

Star Light Star Bright Table Sign Pattern "Star Light, star bright, The First Star I see tonight. I wish I may, I wish I might, Have the wish I wish tonight" This popular anonymous poem has been recited for years in hopeful dreams. Don't really need the entire poem to get the feel, as this sign suggests. Cut this for a child and I'm sure they will recognize it. I cut mine from sapele and mounted it on an improvised top layer of same attached to a maple bottom. Download from Free Pattern Page:

You have to get a lot of money for the clocks to pay for those larger forstner bits!! They are spendy!

it is attached clock-insert-template.svg

I only use the small clock insert so I use a forstner bit I made an inkscape template with the drawings for 3 clock inserts, then I just copy and paste to the new inkscape instance I am working on, let me know if you want it.

Hi,Melanie,Keep them coming.i get personal recognition from doing religious projects like yours is no exception.

Ok, I will but if I do, no making fun of my gaps in the flower. It was my first time doing this and I screwed up. After making the first one, I'll do things differently the next time. I tried to cut the outer petals from one piece of wood and one pattern. By cutting the center line between the petals, it made each one of them just a tiny bit narrower than they should have been. Next time, I'll do each one by itself with a separate pattern for each one. Live and learn. I also need to be more cognizant of the grain patterns so I can get them lined up a bit better. Maybe next time, I'll try to buy one piece of wood and cut/plane it so the grain is the same throughout.

just tried this with sunset behind

All 3/4" ply . VID_20190616_100539.mp4

Catching Stars Table Sign Pattern This might make another nice children's sign. I cut mine from cherry and mounted it on a scrap of variegated wood blank that I had from another project. Also added a piece of paneling on the back to catch the shadows (along with the stars). Download from my Free Page: http://baggetta.com/pebooks/puzzle_patterns.htm

I bought my EXcalibur EX-19SVS 10-29-1996 and paid a total of $1095.00 through SEYCO. I used it every day for several hours a day for a good number of years and here it is now June 2019 and my saw finely broke down about Jan. of this year (not bad for an "old" obsolete scroll saw. I've owned quite a few different brand scroll saws over the years and my EX-19 was the best saw I owned. If I could have bought that saw for $500.00 that was mentioned I would have jumped on it. It was the Connecting Rod Part #S162C011 that broke (after 23 years) in my saw and that part is no longer available. The price of the saw was $995.00 with stand and foot switch, $65.00 for the Pedal Arm Lift and $35.00 for shipping and handling. That was the 1996 price.

Or did you register the machine on line. Most machines I have come with a reg card or a place to go online and reg it. If you did, you should be able to prove date of purchase through their records.

Cheap pine that was finished nice,lots of knots

Like Kepy mentioned above, it probably the switch. Dust gets into it and gums up the contacts. As a scroll saw instructor at the local Woodcraft store, I have repaired many a DeWALT switch. If you are handy it’s doable. The first thing you want to do is remove the cover that holds the speed control and switch. Unplug the machine. With needle nose pliers remove the two wires that connect to the switch. Again, make sure the machine is unplugged. Tape together the two wires, then plug the machine back in. If it comes on, the problem is in the switch. If not, then it’s time to take it in to the repair shop. The switch is is repairable. If you need to, I’ll walk you through it. Let me know.

Group of these fixative sprays used in art. One is for keeping pencil drawings from smearing. A light coat spray that may work if you trying to keep thickness down. RJF https://www.dickblick.com/products/krylon-satin-finish-spray-fixative/

Super nice. I will have to look that pattern up.

I always use forstner bits. Easy and clean and easy to adjust the right depth.

Hello Dave, What a beautiful job you did on Pauls pattern, Well finished too! Bob

I use Forstner bits also. I have one for all the popular insert sizes. I even have a 1 3/8” carbide tipped bit for the small inserts. It’s easy to sharpen!

100 Atta Boys to both!

I also use a forstner bit for my small clocks, I have not made larger clocks.

I used Forster bits myself, perfect circle and easier.

Great work - I love bag pipes

fantastic job

That's really neat.

That's awesome, you definitely haven't lost your touch creating patterns. And a very nice bit of cutting too. Excellent work.

That looks super Ray. I think it is an excellent piece. Don W PS I have never made a perfect piece of intarsia. There is always something

Hi, John T., I have made a few puzzles of people's wedding or engagement photos and, since they are done with an actual photo or from computer photo paper, I did not coat them with anything after they were cut and the recipients have said there haven't been any instances of damage, lifting, fading or anything negative. God Bless! Spirithorse

Beautiful!

Well done Kevin,now I will be signing Amazing Grace all night.

Hi Richard Well done, I don't know if I missed something but who is Brittany and how to we get to see her artwork? Thanks Fab4

https://intarsia.com/collections/dvds RJF

When I made these last year I painted the backboard flat black and flat blue. The maple overlay was glued with clear epoxy. Then entire thing was sprayed with satin deft lacquer. Do need to make a couple more of the black ones. They were the better seller. That backboard piece was 3/8" thick. BB

Easy and fast and nice used in the same sentence is not in my vocabulary and never will be. I understand you are into quick sales so if you used BB for the face than why not for the back and paint it. Use spray cans. Can not get get any quicker than that. A black background works great. Save the walnut for special projects. The hole for clock inserts is not that large. It is the size of a clock motor depending what type you get. I told you this when you bought those toys that a nice drill press is worth more than any CNC machine. You can always route the backs out for the insert or scroll it.

Great work, Paul! Thanks for sharing and God Bless! Spirithorse

Ok, let me amend my comment, I love looking at old machinery. No matter what it's made of. Sticks and rocks still fascinate me.

My first puzzle I made I used too much glue and too thick on the board.. when I picked it up to move it my thumb sunk into the picture and made a dimple.. I never had lifting issue with this one.. My second puzzle I used too little glue but was nice and smooth.. however the glue was too lightly applied and also lifted off in several spots... I finally did it right on the last puzzle I made.. But I have to say.. I've never had issues with patterns lifting off while cutting.. and I think the 3M -77 would spray more evenly.. I'd either spray the photo quite wet or spray both the wood and the photo and stick it down quite wet.. Lacquer scratches quite easily.. and is quite thin film.. I think the triple thick glaze would protect better than the Lacquer. With the thicker layer if some areas did smudge a little one could probably clean it up with some buffing as one would do for smudges on a car..

LOL that would make a tricky puzzle, as you wouldn't know what picture is on what side.. Great idea.. I have only made a handful of them.. thought it'd be something I'd really like to make.. but.. just wasn't as satisfying as I thought it'd be.. There is a local craft guy that shows up at our local wood expo.. This guy is an awesome wood burner ( pyrography ) and he combines his wood burning skills and scroll sawing skills.. He burns a portrait and then cuts it up into puzzles.. the thing is.. they way he cuts and burns the image you cannot even tell it's a puzzle and cannot see any puzzle cutting lines in his work.. many folks go up to puck up a woodburned portrait only to get one of the pieces.. some folks thought they had broke it I've got the nice Detail Master wood burning kit with a whole bunch of different pens etc.. just never got into it like I thought I would

https://forum.scrollsawer.com/forum/scroll-saw/scroll-saw-puzzles/32116-carters-method-tutorial

search for shrink wrap bags on amazon, they come in different sizes, heat gun to shrink them, I think a hair dryer would do it too just take a little longer. Given that all I have done is read about this process, my understanding is glue the pic to the 1/4 piece, glue the pattern to a sacrifice piece, and stack cut, sacrifice piece on the bottom, the pic piece and the pattern piece. What I have read is that that you need that kind of sandwich to prevent the blade from ripping the picture on the upstroke and reduce fuzzies on the down stroke I know there is something used in scrap booking that some use to cover the picture after cutting, just not sure what it is.

The EX 19 is one of the original Excalibur saws made in Canada which means it is at least 15 and maybe 20 years old. As was mentioned above, there are no replacement parts available for it.

Some day a ex31 would do me justice

Hello Randy and thanks for the post. I feel the same way you do. There are several people on this forum that live in Tennessee but you are the closest one. We will have to meet for coffee one mourning.