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Just finished this one .It is from a pattern by Sam Custodio. The actual bike is 12" x 8" & I used No1 Penguin Silver Reverse Blades & a 3/0 Spiral in a couple of places .I really like the way this one turned out & it is sold already ,Glad I stack cut 2 of them.

Never had any trouble finding tings to make.

I always loved to make shelves for my Wife, Family and Friends.

Howdy I've been scroll sawing for five years. A pal of mine wanted a way to tilt his Excalibur and Seyco saws and have the pneumatic lift pull in line with the selected blade angle. The operation needed to be simple to operate without having to stand up or lean over the saw because he suffers from mobility issues. The solution is in this video: Video here. This was dead easy to build and implement; the video description contains more details. I used aluminum for the major parts, but hardwood would also work great. Please let me know if you have any questions. Cheers to all, Geno

Well I will tell you this and will let anyone who wants to try that idea have at it but it won't be me. But what I will tell you the Clock that Kevin has just shown I will step that design up a few notches at some time. Just have to figure a few things out yet. I put that project on the back burner last year but will revisit it. I also will be making pool cue pens with watch parts embedded into the pen body and adding them to my revolving list of projects. Not sure how many remember this pen box I made a few years ago for a contest I entered on a pen turning site and it happen to take first place.

If your Excalibur or Seyco is rattling, something that's often overlooked is the four screws that hold the cast aluminum bearing carrier in the front of the upper arm and the four in the lower arm. There are two on each side (yellow arrows in the linked image below, eight screws total). These tend to work loose because they are threaded into the soft aluminum and cannot be overtightened. A dab of blue thread locker helps keep them secure. Click here for image

The kingfisher pattern is by "Wild Bill"

Scrappile, all these parts are industrial Lego. The air connections work just like SharkBite plumbing couplings (they press together...like Lego). You can build what you see in the OP video for about $100 total. Here's a good primer on solenoid valves and actuators: Click here I am no genius; I'm just a goober with some simple tools and some time to think things through and do a little research on the bits and bobs necessary to make stuff work. Like you, I'm also from the Dumb Planet...so if I can do this, so can you. Cheers! Geno

Some tissue boxes I finished. The rose is Tasmanian Oak with Jarrah trim, I Sold this one at Sunday's Markets and have orders for another 2. The others are Pine and Jarrah. I don't think I have posted these designs before.

@JTTHECLOCKMAN, I remember my days at IAP and I know you will. You do some very amazing stuff.

Super cutting!! One of my favorite uncles had an old Indian. He had a side car for it also and would take me for rides. He would have "Cherry Bomb" fire crackers that he gave me to throw at the ground to scare dogs that would chase us. It was great fun. I have had such a great life.. These are the fun things you got to do before computers, video games, cell phones and such things...Heck, you went outside and enjoyed,,,,,,life,,,,,earth.

No, unfortunately there are no plans; I made the parts as I went. The video shows all the parts involved except for the 24vDC transformer, small air pressure regulator, and Aro pneumatic solenoid valve. It's pretty straightforward, and I'm sure there are some improvements that could be made. Pressure regulator: https://www.amazon.com/PRESSURE-REGULATOR-COMPRESSED-SYSTEMS-ADJUST/dp/B06W9HBLCM/ref=sr_1_6 Solenoid valve: https://www.arozone.com/en/products/pneumatic-valves-and-cylinders/pneumatic-valves/premair-series/3-way-valves.html Pneumatic actuator: https://www.amazon.com/Parker-1-06DPSR03-0-Stainless-Cylinder-Non-cushioned/dp/B00BUA1R9W/ref=sr_1_14 You could simplify it and use a pneumatic control pedal; this would remove the requirements for a 24v transformer, relay, and solenoid valve. One like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P41RSG7/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6 I used the transformer/relay/valve because that's what I had on hand. If you buy a single-acting actuator, make sure it retracts (not extends) under pressure. Cheers!

My pool themed clock incorporates the pool table all the balls.. After I made and sold this.. we was at a restaurant and they put those big wood tooth picks in our sandwiches.. I thought about asking if i could buy a few of those ( unused ) to use them on the front and back of the table/ base as the cues.. never did ask though LOL..

coming up 12th anniversary work came in.the tail of the y broke off and I had to make another one.

Come Christmas time you can have a lot of fun making your own ornaments and tree decorations on your scroll saw but sometimes it means having 2 trees.

Most of these baskets are fun and easy to make

Well, it must be an Orange County thing. Up here in the Home Depot in Simi Valley, Ventura Co. they have pallets full of gallon size Mineral Spirits. Try a paint store or Ace or True Value. @Karl S I would never talk bad about your state!

Kevin I have a couple different versions in my head. I had seen a similar pattern that I may combine both patterns and add some things. Just not sure yet. As I said I need to work out a few details yet with my method. Right now I am waiting on some supplies for my puzzle project and will be working on that.

As many of you know I've added hour meters to my saws.. and I've had my new Hawk BM26 for a few months now.. I thought I'd share some thoughts on the Older Ultra and the New BM26 I love the saw.. and have been enjoying using it. Took quite a lot of tweaking and whatnot to get it set up and running as good as it can.. My guess is.. right around 20 hours on the meter before I really started getting the saw tuned and me getting use to it. I'm just shy of 50 (48) hours on the meter now. The saw seems to be really smooth running with virtually almost zero vibration from about 5/8 of the way up on the dial to full speed.. super smooth.. however about anything below that speed seems to be a little shaky and one spot between about 3/8 - 1/2 is quite shaky to the point I just don't go there with it.. I do think some weight would sturdy it up some more but I'm just talking saw itself since I don't feel people should have to go to those lengths to get a saw smooth running.. I've played around a bit with the blade forward / back adjustments and really don't see a huge improvement in cutting other than the quality of the cutting if doing stack cutting or cutting thick stock will make the piece act as though your table isn't square.. There is a mark on the machine to see a visual of where your at with the aggression setting.. I assume it came set up as close to straight up / down as possible and I run it about 1/8" back farther than that set up.. Something I do not like is.. this piece that moves the lower blade holder is adjustable by just turning a screw in the center of the lower chuck.. and it ( in my opinion ) could be a problem down the road with blade alignment.. I've had this thing work its way forward and almost make the blade chuck fall off.. so it's something that you have to keep an eye on.. I may end up putting a little blue loc-tite on it then set it where I like it.. I'll probably call Hawk about this so they have a heads up.. and maybe make a fix for it or keep a better eye on this area for tolerances.. If that thing runs when the thing is all the way at the end of the threads it could bugger up the threads both on the chuck and the screw / bolt and possibly wallow out the threaded hole . I know Loc-tite will take care of my issue in this.. however calling Hawk so they are aware of it is a must and maybe they will send out some new parts.. who knows.. Now onto the saw vrs the other saws.. While I think the new saw is a pretty darn good saw.. I don't think it's as solid / robust machine that the older Ultra saw is.. Not that the new saw isn't worth the money in my opinion.. the older saw seems to be smoother in a wider range on the speed dial than the new saw.. Both cut real nice.. pretty much the same.. I'm not a top feeder so I actually prefer the blade to be back behind the angle mechanism simply because with the blade out front the sawdust drops in your lap just like a DeWalt or EX does.. something I never got with the older two Hawk saws.. Something very different with the new Hawk is.. you hit the foot switch and the saw is BAM.. up to speed... ( Older Hawks have sort of a soft start where it gradually ramps up to speed ) It's not a bad thing I guess.. at first I was having blade wobble issues with that instant on.. but found my blades just wasn't really tight enough.. I'll say any model of the Hawk saw is fussy with blade tension compared to a DeWalt or EX.. however once set up they are good.. same tension all the time every time.. Would I buy the saw again if i could do over? Nope. Not because of anything with the saw itself or the company.. but more about the fact that there are a ton of good used Hawk Ultra and later model G4 type Hawks out there on the market.. save yourself some money and buy a quality used one.. since if I was blindfolded and cutting on the new or old saw.. I'd probably not notice much difference.. at least not for the money difference.. LOL Is the Hawk saw price worth the extra $$ over a EX type saw.. Really more of an opinion and everyone would have a different opinion / answer to that question.. For me.. Yes IF.. primarily cutting thin stock doing detail fretwork.. Not so much so if cutting 3/4" thick plus stock on a regular basis.. I like having the option to have both the Ex and the Hawk.. If I'm making puzzles or other thick stock.. i like the EX better.. My clocks and other things I make I mostly cut 1/2 - 5/8 stock and i primarily use the Hawks.. Once in a while I use the EX to change things up.. If I could only have one saw... wow that's be a tough call really.. I like both saws very much and could probably get used to using just one.. in that case.. I might have to save the extra money and go with the EX type saw.. most likely a Pegas actually.. LOL I've gotta say since I put the hour meters on the saws.. I find that in a 6-8 hour day in the shop.. I'm only getting 4-5 hours cutting time on the meters on a good day, LOL.. Doing fretwork with having the saw run short times between frets.. LOL that time is short but sure does effect the actual run time quite a lot..

thank you for the review Keven. i have never used an EX but am thinking of getting one for my wife. i started with a wen, then a craftsman, and now the hawk vs226. the hawk is many levels ahead of my first 2. i have the same vibration problem at 5/8 speed but did eliminate the low speed vibration by making and H frame to fit the inside bottom of the legs. on the cross bar of the H i added a platform with 40lbs of weight and keep my "go tool box", about an other 20lbs and now i have zero vibration up to the 5/8 speed. chris

I will subscribe to SSW again when they let subscribers log into their site and download any of their patterns individually so it is easy and user friendly.

NOW that is a cool project!

Very detailed cutting and pattern .This looks great and one of the better ones I,ve seen cut.

Here is my variat (layered) of classic Celtic cross Celtic Cross pattern

Welcome to the Village Harry, it's a great place to be. Lots of lovely, extremely helpful people and a friendly atmosphere.

awesome job

OK, my final comment. Looks like JTTHECLOCKMAN has it right - see his comments just above - ... below is the latest advise from Delta Tech Support. The controller is an electronic circuit board Ref. # 74 on page 2 of the parts list. You will need to remove Ref. # 67 HOUSING (LEFT) to see it. We suggest using a service center for the repair. Regards, Delta Customer Care So, for the long run, I hope all this helps anyone else with this scroll saw and this problem. It's either the Switch of the Controller according to Delta Tech Supt. Good luck, and again I very much appreciate all the input from everyone. Vin

A great cutting of a very nice pattern. Some hairy cut's there Peter. I did the same pattern a while ago. Sam has some real beauts.

Great project!

I like this, grampa did hear no evil see no evil speak no evil along time ago,similar.

HUH! Are you talking to me??? Hello,,, solenoid, valve? Pneumatic Actu--something.... I am from the dumb planet!!!!

Kevin, thanks for the great review and an honest one. The second to last paragraph surprised me some. I read it like you preferred the Hawk more for fret work and thinner wood, the Ex for the thicker stuff. I would expect the the Ex, with the easier blade clamps for moving from one hole to another, etc., would make it the preferred for detailed fret work. I cannot argue with you, I have never had the privilege of sitting at a Hawk so I can't compare. But I do fretwork a lot and had an Ex and now an Ex "type" Seyco, and I always thought their clamps would be more compatible with fret work.... Very interesting. I really hope that someday I get a chance at a Hawk that I just can not pass up. I almost "pulled the trigger" a couple years ago on a real clean G-4 model, I say "pulled the trigger" because, we could not agree on price but I offered trading a WWI Springfield 30-06 rifle for it... then when he was really interested, I got scared and backed down...... such a coward...

Your review makes me appreciate my ultra even more. Great machine. My Hawk is on wheels therefore the saw is not necessarily totally stable. I do get excessive vibration at about 2/3 speed and over. Since I rarely go beyond 1/2 speed it is not a problem. I am considering putting a single swivel caster on the front center rather than two giving me a three point stand eliminating some of the vibration.

0 - 4 Number Puzzle Pattern Little kids best learn their numbers through practice in a fun song or game. Well, this large piece puzzle will help young children learn to recognize numbers and sequence. You can cut this from thick pine or poplar to make a nice stand up puzzle. It took a while to come up with the key locks, so I'll only work on the next sequence if there is interest in this kind of puzzle. Let me know if you would like to see the next sequence as a puzzle pattern (abaggetta@yahoo.com). Download the pattern from my free page:

Well, that is very interesting.... is there more info somewhere, like plans/instructions for building/ buying?? Did miss something? And you mention tilt.... I did not see anything about "tilt" in the video I saw...

Well done Geno. A great idea and I am sure a great help.

Kind of like a rifle, look down the barrel from behind. RJF

https://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/19376-scrollsaw-monkey-puzzle.html RJF

Perfect job.Already framed ,can,t beat that

Love the contrasting strips in the lids and the finish is mirror-like.

Smile Grin Chuckle Table Sign Pattern This philosophical table ornament reminds us that we should keep a lighter attitude to most things in our lives. Some of my customers have asked why I add certain features to a sign they have requested. Usually it is for support. For example, in this sign I wanted SMILE and GRIN to float in the air, but this just can't be in a wood display without some support. So I added the moons or smiles to offer support for the words floating in the air, and the little elf to support the upper deck. I cut my sign from cherry wood and made a three tone base from scraps I had around. Download free pattern from here:

These are will be the conversatioal piece in a home. so nice to see custom work like this.

The box with rose.... AWSOME! I lovet!

Love the boxes. Roly

Thanks again. I made the bases to resemble the Rack sort of. They are rosewood and oak. Being I use lots of them I buy the balls from China. You can get cheap sets on Ebay but many times they have been used. These are not the real good professional ones used in games but they work well. I sell all numbers and let the customer choose. Have to say I sold probably as many 8 ball as 10 ball because the clock face. People love that blue clock face. Have sold many of the cue ball too and people like a black outer ring and white face with that one. The same one that is on the green 6 ball.

very nice,good to see aussie timbers in use

Great cuttings. Wish my dad were alive to receive them.

I use Peachtree bits along with MLCS bits and to me yes a complete set is a must if woodworking in a shop. I have a few complete sets and have sets up to 4" When using bigger bits you need a drill press and you need to slow it down. I do buy individual ones in sizes I use most and I have carbide ones in the 1-3/8" size because I drill billiard balls for clock inserts and that dulls a bit quickly. I have learned to sharpen them too which helps prolong the life. I would not be without them. Holesaws are fine but I usually do not want a hole to go all the way through the back side if possible. Same with scrolling them.

Spendy? Forstner bits are a must have item in a wood working shop JMO. What size bit are you talking about? A 3" carbide bit is $50 on Amazon, a MLCS brand brand $21.(I have been pleased with their products) Any bigger than that I would use alternative methods, i.e. scroll saw, or router if I don't want to go all the way through.

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