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Hi Tony and welcome to the Village. I am not familiar with that machine. Does it have a blade already installed on it? If so, you may want to remove it and take a good look at it. There are basically two main “types” of Scroll Saw blades used with most saws. They are pin-end or pinless. you will want to figure out what kind your machine uses. (Some will accept both.) Pinless is better because it allows you to use smaller (thinner) blades because you can drill smaller holes. Blades with a “pin end” require a bigger hole to be drilled so that you can insert the larger pin-end through After that there are spiral blades and straight blades. Some people swear by spiral blades while others hate them. Most people recommend that beginners use straight blades to start. Then later after you are comfortable cutting with your saw, you can give spiral blades a try. After that, the blades come in different sizes, and “styles”. The smaller the number, the smaller the blade. So a 1 is much smaller then a 9 or 12. How big or small of a blade to use is dictated by several things including the type of wood being used, how big the hole you need to insert it through, type of cutting you are doing, and more. For most general cutting, most probably reach for a 3 or 5 but it really depends on the end user’s personal preferences. Then after “size” you will find there are some additional features like “reverse” teeth - this is where the bottom few teeth are “reversed” the thought being that by doing that, it reduces the tear out on the bottom of the piece. There are others that I won’t go into full details on like a skip tooth and more. Once you understand the basics about the blades, then you find there are different brands/manufacturers of blades. Some people use different and.various brands, like Olsen, Flying Dutchman, Pegasus, and many more. Others stick to one brand. It’s all really personal preference, you just have to decide what you prefer. you can do a quick google search and find lots of details and info about Scroll Saw blades. however, here is a Link to Steve Good’s blog where he has shared a lot of info. On blades over the years and you can find them here: http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/search?q=Blades Steve shares a lot of great information plus a free pattern almost daily on his site so it’s a great place for a newbie to the Saw to look back through. Here is another article from Woodcraft’s site: https://www.woodcraft.com/blog_entries/choosing-scroll-saw-blades and an article from Scrollsaw Woodworking & Crafts magazine: http://scrollsawer.com/2017/09/06/choosing-the-right-blade/

Haven't done much cutting lately. Just finished installing new kitchen cabinets and counter tops. That will take up a whole lot of your time,, and money! I made one of these earlier this year for a neighbor to give to his church. Showed some people the pic of it and a guy at work wanted 2. Baltic Birch plywood on a piece of Walnut.

Sounds like a perfect use for a dozuki saw. I had one that was so thin the kerf was less than .020 thick. It had a spine on the back and was great for dovetails. I need to replace it.

Haven't done much cutting lately. Just finished installing new kitchen cabinets and counter tops. That will take up a whole lot of your time,, and money! I made one of these earlier this year for a neighbor to give to his church. Showed some people the pic of it and a guy at work wanted 2. Baltic Birch plywood on a piece of Walnut.

Thanks to bobscroll for some awesome patterns! I made this out of some leftover flooring just to see how it would turn out. I plan to make several of these signs of my hometown (this sign), my current home town and everyplace my wife and I have vacationed. I will hang them up out on my back porch up on a big Cypress beam that goes clear around the porch. I probably won't use this flooring material, too hard to cut for one and not weatherproof. Although the area that I will hang them is out of the direct elements. I will probably use Cedar. Thanks again, Bob!

Just wanted to clarify that I emailed Bear Wood where I bought the blades.. with my order number and the amount of blades I had ordered with them.. They replied back saying they was going to ask the higher ups about the issue and get back to me.. Later that day.. they messaged back and said there was a few blades that Pegas tried to redesign or something and that they had some issues with.. and said they would be sending out replacements right away.. The replacement blades came directly from Grobet.. not from BW.. Must faster than the other orders I've gotten from BW.. probably because they were sent from within the USA.. and not Canada.. BTW, Been sawing all day today so far with those #5's.. no broken blades.. Yay, LOL Also the new blades seem to be much sharper blades than the ones with the notch.. Now.. not all the notched ones were as bad as those I got from BW.. The 3-4 gross I got from DnD with the notch.. I did have breakage issues from time to time.. and they were sharper than these others I got from BW.. some of these from BW didn't even have the last couple of teeth on the cut stroke pointed.. it was just a square shape rather than a pointed tooth..

Marine Items. Duke

Please keep us posted on your progress.

I emailed Grobet also. I gave them my address and phone number. But so far I've rec'd no reply. I am not really expecting anything. So far I'm using the faulty blades in my EX. I'll order more for my Hawk.

Thinking about this some more, I'm going to attempt Charlie's birrrdbath: using segmentation. It's going to be quite a challenge for me.

Are you sure your square is accurate. I took one of mine to work years ago and checked it on a surface plate with against the machinist squares in our shop. and it was off. An easy way to check, out it on a board and with a very sharp pencil flip the square. and draw the line again. The lines should be perfectly on top of each other

From the same day as trying my hand at sign making. Plywood on cedar. MG#3 blade. Just have to put the finish on it. Planing to use spar finish.

Another project just finished. A Celtic Cross with Dragons. It is cut in Baltic Birch and finished with sanding sealer and a coat of cellulose lacquer. Hope you like it.

These are the last of these football plaques I have been working on. All the same half inch pine backs with 3mm ply fronts and some with white cardboard inserts. All the patterns are by Bobby @scrollriffic.

Very nice Marg. love the way you do them .They really stand out.

Mine came direct from Grobet instead of Bear Wood.. Guessing that is why they came so fast..

The replacement blades showed up in my mail box today.. Yay.. now it's been almost a year since I've had "Good" #5 blades... might have to run to the shop and give the good ones a try again... Been using those bad blades so long that the good ones will probably mess me up, LOL

I thought we were talking about accurate miter cuts for picture frame corners. I have a jig that I built for my large router that's actually a sliding bridge. When planing the surface of firewood or large slabs that won't go through my DeWalt 735 planer, I place it on my bench and attach a board to each side of the bench with the top edges level with each other and just slightly above the piece of wood that will be planed. My big router goes in the bridge with a planning bit in it, and I slide this bridge back and forth, removing layer after layer of the slab until it is completely flat. Back in the 1950's I watch a guy doing this to flatten a butcher block for the neighborhood butcher store. We have much better and more powerful routers today, and even better bits to do this, but the method is the same. It impressed me when I saw him doing it, and many years later I put this lesson to use in my own shop. It works very well, when what you are trying to flatten is way too big for your planer. For flat pieces that are just too wide for my planer, I usually just rip them into one or more pieces, joint the edges and plane the surfaces, then glue them back together, being as careful as possible to keep the surfaces flat. A little sanding is usually necessary, but it's faster than the butcher block method. Charley

No sand baggers ,Good your showing your project more and more. These are the best of the best ,Marg.

Pattern by Sue Mey from issue #69, Winter 2017 of Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts. Backer is 1” Black Walnut. The stable is 1/2” Poplar. Joseph and Mary are Cherry. The Donkey is Mahogany. The Shepherd is Beach and the lamb is Poplar. Cut with Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse blades ranging from #1 to a #9. Soaked in a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. After 24 hours, top coated with Deft semi gloss spray lacquer. All of the pieces in the two sets I cut were cut from scrap Hardwoods.

Good one.

One more 3D project. 36 pieces, I use wooden dowels, but it can be assembled by gluing Video of making project (YouTube) 3D Cat pattern

"RUBBER" STAMP Pattern Project "Dragon Love" Thought I'd try my hand at making a rubber stamp with a logo on it, using my scroll saw. I designed the "Dragon Love" ornament and reduced it in size to about 4" I cut it out of birch plywood and made a backing for it and a handle to create a "rubber" stamp. Actually a wooden stamp to use on paper, wood or other materials. If this work out I'll make other patterns to be used for the same purpose. I bought an ink pad, but I don't think it was good enough. Seems like you would need one that is more moist. But it seemed to work after some practice. The project is easy enough to make but I made a video which you can check out on my YouTube Channel and you can also download the free pattern from there as well.

Seen many adaptions of routers using a jig to plane. A little slower and not for those that plan every day. A quick search should get a group of them. Seen them of wood working shows and youtube. Just a basic router support to hold the router level over the work piece. By passing a straight bit over all the work area the work piece is 'planed'. Good for occasional, can't afford, can't fit a planner. RJF

I'm impressed to see car wheels disappear in the wheel wells. I have problems with wheels and this is the ticket for me to try. Thank you Mimi.I like your work here.

So nice to see your's and Mahendra's work here. looks great.

Stunning combo frame & project. Please keep your very admireable projects coming.

This is top shelf good. your work is commendable!

It came from a Christmas Stocking actually I put it through Inkscape and did a 'Trace Bitmap' to get it. Glad you found what you were looking for.

I have both of them. They are built with the quality of aerospace hardware and each comes in it's own blow molded case. I can get perfect miters in 1/2 degree increments with the one jig and perfect segment cuts for making segmented circles or arcs with the other. When used with a miter gauge that fits the 3/4 X 3/8 miter slot accurately, and using a length stop on the miter gauge for exact length cuts, the results that can be achieved are incredible. My Delta miter saw with lasers isn't as repeatable as I can get when using a MiterSet jig to calibrate my old OEM Delta miter gauge to make the same cuts on my Unisaw. I'm a very happy customer of the MiterSet gauges. For the segment gauge, all you have to do is place two steel pins in the holes numbered for the number of segments that you want to make in a circle. Then place your miter gauge in the slot in the MiterSet segments gauge, and against the two pins. Then lock the setting by tightening the miter gauge knob. For the angle setting MiterSet gauge you do a similar placement of two pins in holes, but then place a stepped bar against them, positioned to get the fine adjustment of the desired angle. Then you place your miter gauge bar in the slot of the gauge and the head of the miter gauge against the stepped bar. Then tighten the knob on your miter gauge and it is set to the needed angle. Amazon sells the MiterSet gauges https://miterset.myshopify.com/products/miterset-package-set Charley

Thanks! I'm not interested in that particular drawing but I suspect that it came from a colouring book. That gave me a clue to look for Charlie Harper Colouring Books on the web and I found several.

I have watched sparks come off my flooring saw cutting laminates. Made me think that sand is used making them to make them water proof cheaply? Very good quality cuts on the laminates. i could not add a like for some reason.?

Very nice work!!

It's not a pattern per se, but simple enough to put your own bridges in it to keep it together perhaps. Not sure if this helps any. CHARLEY HARPER.pdf

Nice pieces. I used to get Australian rules football on my cable TV service, but they have discontinued it. Bummer. Now during the NFL off season, I have been watching a lot of Super Rugby games.

fantastic job

very nice job

My 2nd all time favorite band! Thanks for sharing that! Any chance of getting a similar pattern from their early days? Queen II for example

Excellent!!

NICE

Very nice and clean! Very Well Done.

Nice !...You are the "Champion "

Those turned out great !

They are Awesome!!!Love the Colors

Job Very Well done!!!

Excellent work Marg, they look stunning. What do you use to add the colour? is it a stain or a paint

I have used shrink wrap since I started making puzzles for the kids. When I do, I enclose a zip top baggie large enough to hold the puzzle pieces after they are opened so none get lost. Thank you for sharing with the Toys for Tots program. It has been a large part of my life for the past 20 years. I make puzzles, games & toys (especially pocket cars) and give them out every Christmas. I even impersonate Mrs Clause in the months of November and December. It is great fun for me and the kiddos.

A very nicely done piece!

Very nice cutting! I like it.